REAR BRAKE ROTORS HELP !!!!!
you will need to pop the rubber cap thats on the front face of the rotor,
you need a flat head screw driver to loosen the spring tensioner to release the ebrake so that the rotor can come out freely.
( thats only youve support the car, take the wheel off , and the two bolts that hold the caliper )
I assume you rear rotors are warp or pads worn on them ?
you need a flat head screw driver to loosen the spring tensioner to release the ebrake so that the rotor can come out freely.
( thats only youve support the car, take the wheel off , and the two bolts that hold the caliper )
I assume you rear rotors are warp or pads worn on them ?
Thanks all,
I had to postpone changing the rotors. I did see the service manual, changed the front rotors out a while back and needed new pads. Car got 70K on it and last trip to the dealer said i had alot of rust on the rotors. Problem is the service manual calls for bleeding the brakes and im not too keen on doing that. Also i searched and people mention unbolting the E-brake cable also not really wanting to mess with that. Some thread mentioned a special tool for the rear Calipers the "twists" the Piston in...Been doing my own brake pad and rotors on other cars..plus the fronts and always got it done with a C-Clamp and sockets. I asked for help because i needed clarification. The Wife's 03 G35 sedan needed just the C-Clamp and Sockets for front and rear thought the MAX was the Same but reading into it it seems not........Can someone clarify?
Thanks Again. I do plan on doing the brakes in the morning if i can get some more guidance...am i okay with a C clamp or do i need special tools etc...?
I had to postpone changing the rotors. I did see the service manual, changed the front rotors out a while back and needed new pads. Car got 70K on it and last trip to the dealer said i had alot of rust on the rotors. Problem is the service manual calls for bleeding the brakes and im not too keen on doing that. Also i searched and people mention unbolting the E-brake cable also not really wanting to mess with that. Some thread mentioned a special tool for the rear Calipers the "twists" the Piston in...Been doing my own brake pad and rotors on other cars..plus the fronts and always got it done with a C-Clamp and sockets. I asked for help because i needed clarification. The Wife's 03 G35 sedan needed just the C-Clamp and Sockets for front and rear thought the MAX was the Same but reading into it it seems not........Can someone clarify?
Thanks Again. I do plan on doing the brakes in the morning if i can get some more guidance...am i okay with a C clamp or do i need special tools etc...?
dealer saying you got rust -> bull**** to sell you new rotors. I've heard that **** SOOOOO many times. Wtf is that, rust on the rotors. really. Thats no reason to change rotors. IF it really bothers you for aesthetic reasons, wirebrush/paint them..... (I did it cause I was sick of looking at orange rotors, but thats just me... they had no issue).
Oh well. I guess you already have new rotors.
No "real" need to bleed the brakes now. I think it's a good idea to do it every 2 years, but you dont need to do it when you change the pads/rotors....
If your rotor comes off no need to play with the ebrake adjuster. make sure ebrake is not engaged. If its loose but wont come off, (remove the rubber gommet on the rotor, look with a flashlight inside. you will see a star shaped adjuster. insert a screwdriver and find which way slacks it. up or down. slack it enough so it releases rotor... install new rotor. tighten it until rotor doesnt turn anymore, then back it off 4-5 clicks. rotor should turn freely now. then make sure handbrake engages well.
2004 is just c clamp... i dont think you need to twist the piston on the 2006. Just try it man.... if it needs to twist, it wont go in easily.....
It seems like you are afraid of it. Just do it.... take your time and think.
Oh well. I guess you already have new rotors.
No "real" need to bleed the brakes now. I think it's a good idea to do it every 2 years, but you dont need to do it when you change the pads/rotors....
If your rotor comes off no need to play with the ebrake adjuster. make sure ebrake is not engaged. If its loose but wont come off, (remove the rubber gommet on the rotor, look with a flashlight inside. you will see a star shaped adjuster. insert a screwdriver and find which way slacks it. up or down. slack it enough so it releases rotor... install new rotor. tighten it until rotor doesnt turn anymore, then back it off 4-5 clicks. rotor should turn freely now. then make sure handbrake engages well.
2004 is just c clamp... i dont think you need to twist the piston on the 2006. Just try it man.... if it needs to twist, it wont go in easily.....
It seems like you are afraid of it. Just do it.... take your time and think.
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