Jerzyjr

Hi everyone

Im looking for some help. I have a 2006 Maxima SE. A few weeks ago my ABS started kicking on constantly, at every stop. Took it to the dealer to do a diognostics and they are saying left rear abs sensor. They want $425 Crazy. I can get the part for $125.....my question is, how difficult is it to replace. I have mecahnical knowledge but not extensive. Also, do I need to do anyting once it installed? some kind of callibration or anything? if so how do I do it. They said if that doesnt fix it then it may be the actuator $1300 part. How difficult is that to replace on your own? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

L36

iTrader: (4)

Sensors are in the wheel hub, so removing them is not that difficult. If the aculator is bad, its located on the passengers side behind the engine, so removing that part is quite a PITA. No calibration or anything required, just replace the faulty sensor.

BOOTZ

Do not drive it around like that. If you need to drive it, remove your abs fuse so the actuator isn't always on. You'll kill it otherwise.

Replace the sensor and clean the hub.

There is a TSB on it.

20MAXIMA00 SE

iTrader: (1)

Just had the exact same thing happen on my 2005. I drove it gingerly to work and back, thankfully i only have to drive 2.5 miles to work...

However, i took it into the stealership by me and they quoted me $2800 for parts labor and all.... RIP OFF!!! I then went straight to MIDAS and got a quote. they said they would do the work for $1800. So, i then thought, "eff all that, I will research it on the .Org and google" I found the TSB and kept digging and found that it was the rear ABS sensors located in the hubs. (link for TSB on bttom of page, also another link with the user who suggested the solution)

So, I took it to the MIDAS guys again and against their recommendation they took the Passanger rear wheel off and cleaned my sensor and hub, and wallaahhh it is now fixed! it cost me 1.5 hours of labor ($135) and solved the issue.

Dont spend the $2000 unless you are sure its necessary!

TSB:NTB07-016b
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowl...id=184&doit=Go


Possible Solution:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...-problems.html

04BlackMaxx

Its a flaw with the car, id have them do it for $425 and be happy you dont need to replacve the $2000 actuator. The ABS system on this car is a complete piece of **** and the issue reoccured for me 3x during ownership, and it was byfar the most dangerous and expensive problem. Not a believer of Jap quality engineering anymore.

LiquidEliteMax

Hey guys, I'm hearing some buzzing sound in my engine compartment and my abs light is on. Is it the sensor or my actuator is going bad? Where is the abs fuse located? Thanks!!!

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Is the buzzing constant, or only when you start the car? If it is constant, whether or not you are applying the brakes, then your actuator might be going bad. Check in the fuse panel under the hood for the ABS fuse.

MaxFan

I had this issue a couple of years back. Everytime I turned the key on (not starting the car yet), the ABS was buzzing loudly. I topped off the brake-fluid to fix that. I also had the rear-sensors cleaned while replacing the pads to be safe.
At first I didn't think the fluid was low. There were two markings on the side
of the reservoir and the fluid was above the top mark. But then I paid attention and realized the full mark is at/upto the neck of the container.
So check your fluid level first. I haven't seen anymore issue since. Still wonder how a little bit of fluid short could trigger such issue.

LiquidEliteMax

The buzzing is there even when the car is off. My fluid is at max.

LiquidEliteMax

If i remove the abs fuse...does this de-activate the abs unit? Will my brakes this work?
thanks

LiquidEliteMax

I think I'm going to remove the abs sensor...can someone please post a pic of the abs sensor in the engine bay. thx

unistang

If you are getting a constant buzzing, then your actuator may be shot. I see that you live in NYC. I had to perform the TSB on both of my rear hubs here in Chicago ('04 with 100k) and let me pass along what I've learned. If your max is older and daily driven in an area that salts the roads, forget about getting those rear sensors out without snapping off the tiny *** bolt that holds them in. Which in theory, would fine except you will most likely also have difficulty getting the hub out of the car to redrill for the same reason. I say this becuase this is how the passenger side went for me and took me 4-5 hours. I did the driver side in 25 minutes. Pop the wheel off, remove the brake hardware, remove the emergency brake cable, remove the emergency brake hardware (as a unit), remove the bearing hub assembly. From here (now mind you the sensor is still in) remove the rear plastic cap, carefully clean the hub (not the hub bearing) with a small wire brush on the end of a drill (no not hit the sensor), install the new style rear plastic cap and wipe the magnetic ring on the inside of the bear hub clean with a wet rag only (no solvents). Re-assemble, problem gone. That takes care of the abs issue and assumes your sensors are still good, which mine were. They usually will not fail unless you neglect the problem for too long. Now, if your ABS actuator is humming even with the car off, you have a much more difficult and probably THE most costly repair possible ahead of you on this car.

If you want to disconnect your ABS system, simply just unplug one of the sensors. If you pull the fuse under the hood, too many required systems will not work (ie. turn signals). It is possible to modify that fuse and only snip the wire for the ABS, but you are just bandaiding the problem. Do the TSB on both rear wheels, if it doesn't fix the problem a) swallow the 2500 repair bill or b) sell the car.

LiquidEliteMax

Hey guys, I went to my mechanic and he said it's my abs actuator. Damn....that's going to hurt. Should i get a used one on ebay or just get a new unit from nissan? I removed the abs fuse and the buzzing didn't go off. Please chime in guys. Thanks

04BlackMaxx

That sucks, I think I didnt go the ebay route because i only had 40k on the car when it happened and they ate the cost. It was something like $2,000 installed. What a joke, and i bet it would happen again to me if i still had the car because the problem reoccured at around 110,000 and that time it was rear sensors (again, but this time not the actuator as well) and it ONLY cost around $300 if i recall.

Jerzyjr

OK guys so I got a new sensor and unstalled it. 20 minute job. ABS no longer kicking in so that good, however now I have 3 lights on my dash. ABS, SLIP adn TSC light.......grrrr any ideas?

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

If all 3 of those lights are on, then it means that your ABS is not working at all and the sensor replacement basically had no effect. When you turn your ignition on, do you hear a humming noise that lasts for about 5 seconds? Had the same series of events with mine. Shop said a sensor was bad so I bought a new one and replaced it. Lights still on. Researched on here and found out that the problem could be coming from the rear wheel hub - rust, dirt and corrosion build up inside of the hub and causes the rear sensor (usually pass side) to get a bad reading. This throws off the entire ABS system and causes it to engage when it shouldn't.

I found this TSB, which outlines the fix - removing the rear wheel hub and cleaning everything out, and grinding out a notch that allows water to drain more easily:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ba...NTB07-016b.pdf

I went one step further and just bought new hubs/bearings. Got a pretty good deal on them (timken) on ebay, under $200 for both. Install was straightforward, hubs are bolted in from behind by just 4 bolts. After cleaning up everything (including sensors) and installing the new hubs, my ABS was working perfectly. Been good for about 2 years now...

Jerzyjr

I know the sensor replacement did something becasue I can atleast drive the car now. Before the replacement the abs would kick on everytime I hit the brakes. I do not have a humming noise.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

If the sensor did something, it somehow managed to disable your ABS. Either that or your ABS actuator has coincidentally died at the same time as the sensor replacement. Hopefully the latter is not the case because the actuator is an expensive part (around $1000). My ABS was activating during every stop as well, and I had no lights on. Once those three lights remained on (which was initially the case with one sensor unplugged, but eventually would come on after a few blocks of driving with the sensor connected), I was able to drive the car but with no functioning ABS.

If you want to get your ABS system working again, remove and check and clean those rear hubs per the TSB, and have the actuator checked just in case. If you're content driving without it, carry on as is.

mynissanmaxima2005

In case anyone is looking for more information on this:
https://mynissanmaxima.wordpress.com/

04BlackMaxx

The 6th gen was a piece of $hit.