vertigo72480

2005 Max, SE, 101k, i'm the second owner, have had 7 nissans. Driving home tonight, car loses power from stop, slow acceleration, no power from stop and bogs. Rough idle in park, stumbles, but revs up. Any ideas? No DTC makes this a pain to trouble shoot.

vertigo72480

new development, starts, bogs, dies, won't rev up, smells rich, still no DTC. Plugs, coils?

vertigo72480

C'mon, I know you guys are out there, throw me something here.

po8pimp

might want to look into the CSP sensors. This is what happened to me then it finally threw a code. You might also have a code without a check engine light. worth taking a look at.

vertigo72480

I suppose that is entirely possible. My work truck (2007 Ford F350 5.4V8) had bad CSP sensors and would run, but very badly. This seems similar. I'm a little concerned about throwing money at issues as I'm not the governement, but the biggest problem is that damn thing won't run now.

vertigo72480

Pulled codes out of computer this morning, still no MIL but a P0300 code residing in the computer. Such a wonderful code, completely vague and no resolution as far as what may actually be going on.

Anyway, after the car sat overnight I was able to start the car and rev it up. It still won't idle, but runs smoothly with no stumble or miss above 2500 rpm, but after a period of time, it will begin to dial back power and try to bog. If the throttle is feathered the engine will rev back up to 2500+ and will rev all the way to the red line. I'm beginning to wonder if I'm looking more at CSP sensors over plugs and coils.

vertigo72480

bump bump bump
Still looking for ideas...

po8pimp

My father in-law just had this happen to him in his VW two days ago. Same exact symptoms with no check engine light. Then he drove it to the shop and on the way threw a code and it was his CSP sensor. I can't tell you 100%, however that is what I would check first. You can pull the sensor and test it. However without the heat it could be fine. What happens is it works fine up until it gets hot and expands. Then oil/gas mix gets inside and screws it up. Eventually it will just go out and throw a code. You could also have a loose connector on an injector causing the same thing. Check that the connectors for the injectors and plugs are good and tight. CSP sensor is the most logical. Nothing else that I can think of would be effected by heat causing this type of issue. Good luck and keep us posted. If you do change out your CSP sensors don't be cheap, get the ones from Nissan. Others have tried buying aftermarket ones and found out the hard way that they are crap.

po8pimp

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/200...procedure.html
Could try this and see if it takes care of your problem. It will not get rid of your misfire code. It might only work temporarily but worth a try.

vertigo72480

Resolved.

6 new plugs, about 3.5 hours of disassembly and reassembly, and it purrs like a kitten. Found all plugs were probably original and burnt and worn, as well as intake tube had pulled away from MAF. Some general maintenance and it's all better. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Mike in STL

tacobender

Hey there, I've been having that same problem for a months, got codes and I switched out the CSP sensor twice already with an autozone part... I know not to next time because today I had some misfiring and was real sluggish. Almost the exact issues you described.

My question are, since you changed your plugs have you been getting any problems?
Was the problem all along your plugs and not the CSP sensor? I don't want to open it up and not have to change the plugs.
Also, which plugs did you go with?

Thanks in advance

po8pimp

First off, you shouldn't use aftermarket CSP sensors. There are many guys who have tried this and ended up having to buy Nissan sensors. Some parts are better OEM while others can be swapped out. These are those parts you want stock. I would look at your coil packs for random misfiring. They make a tool to check this with. You can purchase the tool at autozone. It has a light on it that will light up every time you get a good spark. If it is misfiring, you should have a code in your system. Have the code pulled to see which cylinder it is and that will help you troubleshoot your problem.

vertigo72480

plugs on 1 and 3 cylinder were exceptionally fouled as well as burnt and the electrodes were cooked as well. all 6 plugs showed their age, and were probably original with 101k on them. after changing all 6 plugs fuel consumption has decreased, throttle response has improved, and no recurance of issues. also, while I was in the process of taking the intake apart I did notice that my intake tube had pulled away from the MAF sensor, this made me think that had something to do with the misfire. upon reassembly, i cleaned out my MAF, gently, and reassembled. no problems to date.
if you haven't done your plugs, or know if they have been changed, i would recommend it. as far as CSP goes, no codes, no problems, leave them alone. spark plug job on this engine is work, the entire intake plenum has to come off, as well as several vacuum tubes and a couple coolant lines. so if you're not comfortable digging in, don't try this one yourself.

check your MAF tube, should be free of all obstructions and the tube HAS to be connected to run correctly.

hope this helps

Mike in STL

tacobender

Thanks for the quick response,

I have done plugs on my previous car (1994 Toyota Camry) but I've seen a few videos on changing the plugs (car care kiosk is pretty good) on this model and I feel comfortable with the work. It's quite similar. Either way I'm about to crack 90k so I bet it is time for the plugs.

Every time I went to get the codes checked it said replace Camshaft sensors, but I later read here, after the problem persisted, that I should've gone with OEM parts. I've learned my lesson believe me lol.

@pimp: Does this tool plug in like the diagnostics computer or is it something different?

@vertigo: I'll def check the MAF tube and make sure its getting to the censor. Did you check your coils? Were they good? and also which plugs did you go with?

Thanks again.

po8pimp

something similar to this will work, you would take and put it to ground then touch the top of each oil pack to see that they are getting the spark. There are a few different ways to test them.

po8pimp

this is similar type of tool

vertigo72480

If you feel that you can tackle it then go for it.

Some tips, four 13mm bolts on backside of merge collector up against firewall, you can't see them, only need to remove two, I pulled the bottom two out using a box end wrench, it's tight, and there is stuff back there that will chew up the back of your hand. I did not reinstall them as the holes did not line up after I reinstalled my collector and I did not want to loosen the bolts at the manifold. Once everything is tight at the manifold, the assembly is solid and like one piece.

There are two harnesses on the passenger side of the engine on the back side of the manifold, they need to be disconnected from each other and the mounts they are mounted to.

2 Coolant lines running to the throttle body, remove them.

Various vacuum lines, some clamped some not, all clamped lines can be unclamped with a pliers, you may have to spin the line.

BE CAREFUL WITH THE GASKET, and you can reuse it. Reused mine and no leaks.

Spark Plugs are the same NGK plug number, PLFR5A, that came out of the engine. Double Platinum, single electrode, pre gapped at .044, yes I checked. $80 for six at Auto Zone. At least here in STL.

It is not necessary to remove the throttle assembly from the collector.

Check the coils for blistering or melting, as well as any discoloring. Any signs of the above and it should be replaced. Coils will throw a code VERY fast, so if you don't have a cylinder number misfire code, you probably don't have a coil problem.

Hope this helps,
Mike in STL

tacobender

I'm having an unreal time trying to find an OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor. Can someone post a link or at least the part number. On nissanpartszone it has a camshaftPS but not crankshaft. I got it coded once more this morning and its reading Crankshaft. Driving me NUTS! If this doesnt work I'm gonna have to dig in for sure. Thanks for the tips!

po8pimp

Same thing. On these cars it is referred to as a Camshaft Position Sensor, not Crankshaft Position Sensor.

tacobender

So both banks are camshaft, either code P0340 or P0345 are both gonna be camshaft?

po8pimp

Yes that is correct

tacobender

10-4. Thanks.