I have an '08 Maxima that has a key fob that is "messing up" and want an option other than the dealership. They want too much for one and more to program it too. I am looking at some on Ebay but want to know if the only ones that will work for the car are the ones with the same product number or if any '4 button' fob will work. Anyone know that facts or anyone that has done this already? Please help, thanks!

You will need to make sure that any new keyfob you want to get has the FCC ID number of KBRASTU15. Then you must get it programmed to work with your car. You cannot do this yourself, you must have either the dealer or a local locksmith do this.

I do not have that kind of keyless entry, I have an intelligent key fob
FCC ID: CWTWBU735

You can buy anyone that has the same FCC ID as the one that came with the car. After you buy it, you have to take it to the dealership to get it programmed. It cost me 120 last time I did this. I tried multiple locksmiths but they could only program the actual keys that enables you to start the key at the ignition but they could not program the fob itself.

My experience with those ebay fobs, (used one) even with the same code on the case the dealer could not reprogram it. Its a hit and a miss, stupid seller said it was new but it wasn't so he refunded the key.

BTW Oscar4403, what makes you think that you need a new one? Did the dealer tell you this or did you assume it on your own? Sometimes they lose programming and all that is needed is for the dealer to re-program it. Also check your battery and make sure it's installed correctly.

I took it to the dealership because I noticed at first the trunk was not opening when I pushed the button on the trunk itself, but would open with the fob. then when trying to turn on the car while sitting in the driver seat, it would not allow me and the key light would turn on, as if it was not reading the fob. I had to actually touch the key to the turn style ignition for it to read it. what made me take it in was when I locked the keys inside the car by pushing the button on the door handle. I replaced the 3 month old battery with a new one and it still did the same thing. sometimes while driving, the key light turns on, and while inside the car, the warning beeps when opening and closing the door turns on. the dealership checked it out and that's what they claimed. they also said they tried the key on a new car and it was doing the same thing. This is the only key I have so I have no way to compare to another one, and I got it new in 2010. weird it only lasted 3 years.....

Sounds weird but bear with me...replace the battery again, with ENERGIZER brand. For some reason the unknown brands don't do well.

Also, can you take the fob case apart and see the circuitry? If so, resolder the contact points and connections, then clean the circuitry with with acid brush and flux-off (or rubbing alcohol).

...Tell me about it. Mine was even crazier. I changed the car battery and suddenly, the car won't start. It would crank all day but it won't fire. The red key symbol in the dash would come on and stay on and so I was sure it had something to do with the key. I checked as much as I could (fuses, remote battery, some continuity tests, etc) but no luck. I had a locksmith try re-programming it and he said that his computer could not talk to the BCM. I called the dealership and they told me that I would have to tow it in for them to look at it. I did not do that because I believe their mechanics are quite inept. I took it to a nissan specialist and it took him two days to figure out that the BCM was fried and concluded that it must have been when I changed the battery. $1500 later, the car starts but only with the actual key. So, I had to go to the dealership after all to have them program the key that came with it and the one I bought from ebay.

In your case let's hope that it's not the BCM acting up, those can be pricey to replace.

Nissan has managed to turn the once great Maxima to crap. I have owned more maximas and i30/i35s than I can count with both hands and I've never ran into as many problems as I have with this one (this is my first 6th gen). It's quite unfortunate.

thanks for the input. I did replace with energizer both times, it currently has the newest of the batteries. Today it recognized the key but then didn't between the time to turn the ignition and didn't want to start the car. I turned it back off and then on, no problems. I will have to see the circuitries, but last time I didn't see anything unusual. I'll try the cleaning today.

Thanks for your input. I haven't done anything to it like that, I have an extended warranty and don't do anything that will void it. The only thing I did was remove the armrest console to take out the storage box. The wife spilled a drink in there. I disconnected the power outlet connection for it and another bigger one when I removed the box. I washed it out cus it started to stink. I reconnected the power outlet but left the bigger one disconnected to avoid a short. I didn't disconnect anything else besides those.

ok, since I remembered that I left the connection unplugged, I re-connected it. When I turned on the car before connecting it, the red key like was blinking. Basically right after I connected it, the light went away. Hopefully, for the sake of $240, that was the problem.

If you guys know what the connection powered besides the power outlet inside the armrest storage box, like the fob sensor, let me know. It was just above the rear a/c vents. I'll post an update to see if I am experiencing the same problem, or if that solved it.

Thank guys for the help!

Here is the procedure that I used for my 01's fob I reprogramed for my '04, and it worked just fine. No need to pay the dealership for this 5 minute job. Be aware, the timing and sequence if very important for this to work properly.

1. Programming Procedure:

A. Get in the vehicle. Close and lock all doors using the driver's power door lock-unlock switch.

B. Insert and remove the ignition key more than 6 times within a 10 second period (at a rate of one insertion/removal cycle per second). The key should be withdrawn from the ignition key cylinder completely each time it is removed.

NOTE : Do not rush the insertion/removal key cycling process.

C. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position. The ignition key should remain in the "ACC" position throughout the remainder of the programming, including programming of additional remote controllers.

D. Press any button on the remote controller one time.

NOTE : Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

The hazard warning lights will flash twice when this step is accurately completed and programming is successful. For 2000 Quest vehicles, the side marker/tail/license lamps will flash twice when programming is successful.

E. If you are programming only one remote, proceed to step 3A. If programming additional remotes, continue with step 2A, below.


2. Programming Additional Remote Controllers (Maximum of 4 Remotes):

A. Remain inside the vehicle after programming the first remote.

B. Use the driver's power door lock-unlock switch to unlock and then lock the doors.

C. Press any button on one of the additional remote controllers one time.

NOTE : Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

The hazard warning lights will flash twice when programming is successful. For 2000 Quest vehicles, the side marker/tail/license lamps will flash twice when programming is successful.

If there is more than one additional remote to be programmed, repeat steps 2A through 2C above for each additional remote.


3. End Programming:

A. Remove the key from the ignition.

B. Use the door lock-unlock switch on the driver's door to unlock the doors. Open the driver's door to complete the programming

C. Check the operation of each of the remote controllers by locking/unlocking the doors with each remote controller you have programmed.

Well ever since I re-connected that wire harness, it hasn't repeated the problem. I really think that was the cause of the problem. What really bothers me is that I paid the stealership a diagnostic fee and they didn't even diagnose it correctly! I did file a complaint though, like that matters....

Thanks for the help

Glad to see that you figured it out. It doesn't take much to upset that intelligent key system (makes you wonder how intelligent it really is).

@myownworld, that whole procedure does not work on models 2007 going forward, your only choice is a dealer or a locksmith that has Nissan equipment.

The intelligent key has lots of components all over the car -- the thing you disconnected was probably the front console antenna

Check the BL.pdf in the factory service manual for intelligent key info -- you can get the full service manual from http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ (go to the Maxima section and download all the PDF files for your year)