P1800 code, need advice
P1800 code, need advice
Hi guys.
When I bought my car I had a bunch of codes that I am working to fix.
Two that worried me were 1111 (intake valve timing control solenoid bank 1) and 1800 (Vias control solenoid valve)
After reading this up in the FSM I can see how the 1111 code can be caused by the Vias Control valve.
Anyway, I decided to clear the codes and drive it for a bit to see what codes came back. The only code that came back was the P1800. Not the 1111.
I've just been trying to find that valve but I can't see it. Do I need to remove the big black plastic cover first? And, how important is this problem? I'm wondering what it might cost to fix.
When I bought my car I had a bunch of codes that I am working to fix.
Two that worried me were 1111 (intake valve timing control solenoid bank 1) and 1800 (Vias control solenoid valve)
After reading this up in the FSM I can see how the 1111 code can be caused by the Vias Control valve.
Anyway, I decided to clear the codes and drive it for a bit to see what codes came back. The only code that came back was the P1800. Not the 1111.
I've just been trying to find that valve but I can't see it. Do I need to remove the big black plastic cover first? And, how important is this problem? I'm wondering what it might cost to fix.
You can easily replace the VIAS sensor yourself in 25 minutes. You will need to remove the black plastic beautification cover (requires allen wrench). Once you do you will see the sensor mounted by just one 10mm bolt. Unplug the electrical circuit, carefully remove the two vacuum hoses that are attached to it and undo the 10mm bolt. Replace and reverse the steps to reinstall.
***Expect to only be able to find the VIAS sensor at the dealership. I exhausted all local auto part stores in my area but was unable to find a replacement part. Nissan Part #14955-8J10A - Valve Asmy06-D4-A (VIAS control solenoid valve) - $198.90***
Link to a picture of the VIAS sensor so you know what you are looking for.
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&sa...ed=0CFgQrQMwAg
***Expect to only be able to find the VIAS sensor at the dealership. I exhausted all local auto part stores in my area but was unable to find a replacement part. Nissan Part #14955-8J10A - Valve Asmy06-D4-A (VIAS control solenoid valve) - $198.90***
Link to a picture of the VIAS sensor so you know what you are looking for.
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&sa...ed=0CFgQrQMwAg
Last edited by SESixSpeed; Jan 11, 2014 at 05:40 PM.
You can also try Rockauto or other sites to see if you can find a replacement. I believe an alternate name for it is "Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve". The picture they have on Rockauto looks the same as the sensor circled in the google images picture given by SESixSpeed.
Found it on Rockauto with that name(in the Engine subsection), as well as O-Reilly auto.
Note: Rockauto has the same Dorman part (#911506 for cheaper than O-Reilly does, $83.00 vs $140)
Found it on Rockauto with that name(in the Engine subsection), as well as O-Reilly auto.
Note: Rockauto has the same Dorman part (#911506 for cheaper than O-Reilly does, $83.00 vs $140)
Last edited by Mr. Blue Sky; Jan 12, 2014 at 01:07 AM.
Great help, thanks guys. I'm going to take it off the car today and examine the thing. No doubt it has been carefully made so as not to be able to take it apart... anyway, it's already broken, it can't get any more broken!
Just took off the cover and ... the air hose between the can thing and the solenoid valve is completely broken in half. I guess that might have something to do with it! Off to Autozone to see if I can buy some hose line.
Pics of VIAS sensor
The thing is, when I removed the sensor and blow into one of the two tubes, and block the other tube, air comes out of the other side where that rubber sleeve thing is. I discovered that the rubber sleeve just covers a third tube. Surely this rubber part is meant to seal that tube? It doesn't though.
I tried the car after the repair and there wasn't enough suction to move the plunger on the top left of the inlet manifold.
I am guessing that this is due to air leaking past the damn rubber sleeve
Oh well. I tried it with a blocked off rubber tube, no difference, so I replaced that sleeve thing...
Next I got a pair of wires and connected them to the battery. Tried blowing through the sensor tube. It works now! when I have 12V connected to the two sensor terminals it's possible to blow air through, and when the 12V is off, the valve closes. I reinstalled it and tested the engine. Sure enough, just over 1800 rpm the manifold vacuum plunger operated, it's easy to see. Now I need to clear the code and drive for a while to confirm I've fixed it.
I tried the car after the repair and there wasn't enough suction to move the plunger on the top left of the inlet manifold.
I am guessing that this is due to air leaking past the damn rubber sleeve

Oh well. I tried it with a blocked off rubber tube, no difference, so I replaced that sleeve thing...
Next I got a pair of wires and connected them to the battery. Tried blowing through the sensor tube. It works now! when I have 12V connected to the two sensor terminals it's possible to blow air through, and when the 12V is off, the valve closes. I reinstalled it and tested the engine. Sure enough, just over 1800 rpm the manifold vacuum plunger operated, it's easy to see. Now I need to clear the code and drive for a while to confirm I've fixed it.
Last edited by clive; Jan 12, 2014 at 02:26 PM.
The thing is, when I removed the sensor and blow into one of the two tubes, and block the other tube, air comes out of the other side where that rubber sleeve thing is. I discovered that the rubber sleeve just covers a third tube. Surely this rubber part is meant to seal that tube? It doesn't though.
I tried the car after the repair and there wasn't enough suction to move the plunger on the top left of the inlet manifold.
I am guessing that this is due to air leaking past the damn rubber sleeve
Oh well. I tried it with a blocked off rubber tube, no difference, so I replaced that sleeve thing...
Next I got a pair of wires and connected them to the battery. Tried blowing through the sensor tube. It works now! when I have 12V connected to the two sensor terminals it's possible to blow air through, and when the 12V is off, the valve closes. I reinstalled it and tested the engine. Sure enough, just over 1800 rpm the manifold vacuum plunger operated, it's easy to see. Now I need to clear the code and drive for a while to confirm I've fixed it.
I tried the car after the repair and there wasn't enough suction to move the plunger on the top left of the inlet manifold.
I am guessing that this is due to air leaking past the damn rubber sleeve

Oh well. I tried it with a blocked off rubber tube, no difference, so I replaced that sleeve thing...
Next I got a pair of wires and connected them to the battery. Tried blowing through the sensor tube. It works now! when I have 12V connected to the two sensor terminals it's possible to blow air through, and when the 12V is off, the valve closes. I reinstalled it and tested the engine. Sure enough, just over 1800 rpm the manifold vacuum plunger operated, it's easy to see. Now I need to clear the code and drive for a while to confirm I've fixed it.
LEt us know...thanks!
Last edited by acw; Dec 28, 2014 at 11:18 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




