Okay. I have battled this issue for a couple months now. I have read countless posts on line concerning this issue. I have yet to find a story that did not end with "I'm taking it to the dealer". I had all three lights come on (ABS, Slip and TCS off), yet the car seemed to run perfectly fine, of course no ABS or TCS functions, because when all of these lights come on the car bypasses these features and defaults to normal braking. I purchased a Bosch code reader that can read ABS codes ($85). I had one code C1105 (rear right sensor). If you have read anything on line about this, then by now you all have read that the rear right abs sensor and hub bearing tone ring corrode from the elements. A poor design by Nissan. There is a TSB on how to fix it. I followed the TSB by grinding out the notch for water draining. In addition I replaced both rear hub bearings and both rear sensors. I replaced both because the best deals I found on line were for sets. Also when I removed the Hubs and sensors, both were very badly corroded and I didn’t think I could properly clean them. After replacing all of this, my 3 lights went away! However they only went away for about 50 feet of driving! After 50 feet of driving, the abs pulsated, on a dry road, and all of the lights came back on. The car also went into "limp home mode." Meaning it would not accelerate over 20mph. I had to bypass the limp mode in order to get the car drivable again. To do this I removed one of the rear sensors. You cannot just disconnect the electrical connector. You have to remove it from the hub with it still connected to the electrical harness. This is because the ABS module has to read its resistance. By removing it from the hub, the system thinks it’s there, but instead of limp mode it just goes into bypass. Now when I start the car, the abs actuator makes a whining noise for about 2 seconds (not normal to whine at every start up). Anyway I hooked my code reader up and now it reads C1102, C1105 and C1124. The C1102 and C1105 are the rear right and left sensors. C1124 is one of the ABS solenoids. The solenoid is built into the ABS actuator. I went on line and found a used ABS solenoid ($113). These can be found on Hollanderin auto parts. This is a great place to shop online junk yards across the country delivered to your house. I get the part, install it. My 3 lights remain on. Same results, except now I only have a C1102 code which is the rear left abs sensor. After further research, I discovered that my new ABS sensors are no good. I went cheap and bought the sensors on ebay for $40. I should have known better, because new OEM sensors cost $250.00 each! Here is how I discovered the sensors issue. Check resistance across the 2 leads of the sensor when it is disconnected from the car. The OEM sensor should read around 4.3 mega ohms. My cheap China sensors measured 0.43 mega ohms. So I cleaned and reinstalled my old OEM sensors. I cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner. After doing this I reinstalled them. Now all the lights went off. However after driving 20 feet, the slip light began flashing and the car pulsated the brakes. It would not let me accelerate, only coast. The slip light now flashes whenever the car is moving. This time no codes come up and now trouble lights are on, other than the slip light when the car is moving. To bypass this I had to stop the car and turn off the TSC function by pushing the TCS off button. When doing this, the car drives perfect and no trouble lights come on. So, what this means, is that the ABS module is reading the sensors, but it thinks the car is slipping. I found that the alignment of the sensors needed adjusting. After aligning them, the problem was solved! If you have an ABS sensor checking box, it makes aligning them easier I assume. If you don’t then you can check them with a volt meter. They are active sensors so they need to be checked installed with the ignition on. You will have to put 2 jumper wires between the connector of the sensor and the connector going to the ABS actuator. This harness s located under the rear of the car. Just follow the wires from the sensor near the caliper to where the harness coupling is. The jumper wire wires will need a section stripped in the middle of each. Place your volt meter on DC 2V and probe both jumper wires on the stripped section. With the ignition on you should read about 9V. Spin the tire by hand. The volts should increase to about 9.6V if they are aligned and getting a signal. If you are not getting a signal loosen the sensor mounting bolt on the Hub and move them around, while rotating the tire (get a helper). If you get no volts or the voltage does not change when rotating the tire, then the sensor and or the Hub bearings are bad or need cleaning.
Lessons Learned
If I had to do this all over again, I would have taken the rear sensors and hubs off and completely cleaned them and checked for voltage as I described above. I think this would have quickly lead to my ABS actuator (C1124) code. I would have then saved the money of replacing the hubs and rear sensors. I know this is long, but I would have given anything to read something like this 2 months ago. Good luck.

Hi Trasmadean,
About two years ago I had a similar problem and a forum member here helped me.
Nissan had told me the cvt trans needed replacing but after having it rebuilt I found out they were wrong. A forum member steered me to the wheel sensors and he was right!
My mechanic and I spent months running the car with a scanner going down the road and when we pulled one of the ABS fuses the problem went away but left us with no guages or ABS. Then we ran the scanner again and discovered all 4 wheel sensors were reading a different speed. So I replaced all 4 sensors aftermarket from a reputable parts store and two rear hubs as well. The problem was no more - in fact the car ran like when I bought it new.
Hope that helps--
ronvb

Thanks ronvb. In my long story I guess it wasn't clear that I fixed my problem. It was The ABS Module and sensors. The sensors were dirty. After cleaning them they worked and pointed me to the ABS module code. Like you said, after getting this fixed the car runs better now than it ever had. Thanks for your post.

I had this happen to my 350z recently. It was a bad cam position sensor which fixed it and now it runs great.

Hello I pray you are still here. Did you replace the ABS Module? I'm getting P0420 code. After the car kept stalling I replaced the camshaft sensor and the purge solenoid as I was getting that code. This did stop the car from killing and leaving me stranded but then I got the 420 CEL. Now I cranked it and went to drive the car barely moved as if it had no compression and all dashlights came on. The gears R and D seemed to not engage and the car just slightly moved when I tried to accelerate. I noticed some some come from the engine near the firewall. I parked the car and went from R to D many times and it started to engage when put in both gears but with a loud clunk in both. HELLLLLLPPPPP

Yes I changed the ABS module. I had codes C1102, C1105 and C1124. I did not get the P0420 code.

No ABS sensor light lit. When i stopped and restarted the car TCS OFF and slip were off but CES light stayed on solid. During cruise the car was going up a steep grade and shifted down and thats when all the lights lit. I drove another 50 miles but did not again engage cruise control again. The car ran fine. Never saw the lights or the ABS sensor light come on. The only light on now is CES. Auto Zone who were not able to check my codes said his best estimation was an ABS sensor. Anybody had this similar problem?

The technician replace one of the camshaft sensors. The cruise control works but when the cruise control is turned off and the light is still on with car running, starting to speed up again from 0 big power drop as described by some folks above. If the cruise control indicator is turned off no power drain on startup????? What else could be wrong?
P0328 Bad Knock Sensor: P0345 Camshaft position sensor A Bank 2: P0725 Input speed sensor: C1130 ABS detected problem with ECM