When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am having a heck of a time getting the rear subframe to come down on my '05 SL. Shocks and brake lines are off and all 4 of the 17 mm corner nuts came off easily. The subframe easily slides down on the 2 front mounting studs so it's free. However the 2 in the rear will not drop. They will wiggle some when I bend them with a crowbar so they aren't completely stuck. I thought it may be binding so I jacked it back up into position and with a prybar I cannot get the rear to slide down.
I have searched for procedures or youtube videos but can't find anything. Most all searches end with discussions about recalls or someone doing suspension work on the subframe but not actually removing it.
I must be missing some bolts. Or something is seriously rusted in place. The car has little rust in general and the nuts came off no problem so I doubt it's major rust.
What am I missing that's holding the subframe to the body? Thanks in advance for any help!
Specifically what I'd like to know is if there are any more mounting locations of the rear subframe to the body other than the 4 on the outer edges as shown in the pic below.
Thanks. I don't know how I didn't find that. The answer is that the 4 nuts that hold the subframe on are it. So it must be rusted to something or just stuck so time to use a bigger pry bar. It's a junk car so nothing to lose but I like to know how to do the job right before I start beating and hammering on things.
I'd still like to hear from anyone who has lowered the rear subframe. I know I must be over looking something simple but it is stuck, Each corner moves but it's like there are 2 more bolts somewhere that I don't see that hold it to the body.
I've been prying trying to get it off. It wiggles but just won't drop down.
To be specific... this area appears to be locked to the body somehow yet I don't think there are any bolts fastening it to the body in this area. Each of the 4 corners move but it's stuck in the center not allowing it to drop down.
Thanks for the reminder to read the manual. I have and I'm looking for someone who has done this. My experience is not what I'm seeing in the procedure.
I don't see any other fasteners in the manual
Has anyone run into a problem where all 4 nuts are off and the subframe will not lower? It's not being held up by the bolts but rather something in the center I can't see
(19) and (20) in the exploded view are what Step #7 are referring to. Have you pulled these? I'm afraid you have a little more work to do than just four nuts.
You literally need only study the diagram, and complete steps 1-8. It really is just that simple.
If there is a nut, or a fastener fastening the member to the chassis, it will be in that diagram, with placement and torque values. That's the whole point of the diagram.
I wouldn't be back here asking for help if the factory manual didn't answer my question. I see nothing in person or on the diagram that is holding the subframe in place. Ill keep after it but still hoping to hear from people that have done it and can say "you need to pry on it here" or such tips. I'm prying with significant force and it is like its welded to the body in the center (yet the diagram shows no fasteners there)
The FSM is comprehensive. No ".org" dude is going to know more than the engineers who wrote it. If a procedure isn't in the FSM, it does not need to be performed, barring some wack procedure necessary to circumvent some FUBAR repair, rust, or other anomaly which is preventing your progress, in which case it would be unique to your car, and only you would know, being that you are the only one sitting in front of it.
Post some pictures of the undercarriage. I'm not trying to be hard on you, but maybe I, or someone else may be able to spot some anomaly I mentioned above that wouldn't be readily visible or apparent to someone without so much experience.
No big deal if you can't get to pictures. They just aren't necessary. Logic dictates that any fixation point will be isolated (with a bushing), such as in the four locations that are obvious. This should be /thread
Bad news... I don't know what I could do differently if I needed to get it off without damage to the subframe or body
I numbered the mounting locations
1 and 2 had freedom to move up and down. No problem. 3 and 4 were stuck which is why I originally asked if there was another bolt I didn't see. Reading the Nissan procedure answered that question.
It seemed the rubber bushing was welded to the body bolt on 3 and 4. I used a jack to put force on a pry bar to try to break it free but it was NOT going to budge. So I used a sawzall to cut off the body bolts as that was my only options.
This is a junk car so no harm done except maybe spending for a couple of blades and an hour of work.
What should I have done differently? Used heat or penetrating oil? These are the real-world issues we're faced with on 15 year old vehicles that can't be addressed by the manual so that is why I solicited hints from the group. Hopefully someone else will read this and go into the job knowing what to expect. I would say many would have problems with the nut rusted on the body bolt but I was lucky and that wasn't my issue.
I even thought about trying to use some type of puller on 3 and 4 but when the pry bar wouldn't move the subframe down then I knew a puller wouldn't work.
Fewer parts would not be able to be used than could be used, they're both 6th gens. I'm not sure you'd need to keep anything from the rear suspension. 6th gens are a dime a dozen and even cheaper for parts at a yard.
Yep. The body and most metal will be recycled. The car had no title so I had no future with it Ha taking the front subframe out was a breeze compared to the rear!
The FSM is comprehensive. No ".org" dude is going to know more than the engineers who wrote it. If a procedure isn't in the FSM, it does not need to be performed...
I'm late to the party.
But this is probably the funniest thing I've read on the .org in 2021.
As for the OP:
....And anyone who has this problem in the future.... you'll have to make friends with a torch and heat the **** out of the bushing because that metal sleeve on the inside of the bushing rusted with the body and became one. Happened to my previous 4th gen.
And yes... Have a plan on what to do with the bushing once you destroy it.
Alternative non-bushing destroying methods are penatrating oils, atf, etc, etc and can work depending on the level of rust destruction.
If there is a nut, or a fastener fastening the member to the chassis, it will be in that diagram, with placement and torque values. That's the whole point of the diagram.
