7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

Help! I'm new here and have a question....

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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #1441  
Wesley Givin's Avatar
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New to the site. Looking around pretty much everywhere in the 7th Gen pop and especially around the tires/wheels/rims to put towards the new Max. I have a 2012 SP/TP SV with 19's. Thinking 20's with -5 profile as recommended on sticky for "will this fit". Certain websites and rim shops ive noticed has 9.5 or the 8.5. SINCE the OE is 8... how much of a problem is the depth of .5? As for BOLT pattern, offset, and hub bore what does that mean? Appreciate the help if able to!!!

RIMS thinking about getting... http://www.militarydiscountrims.com/...isio-5720.html
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #1442  
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Originally Posted by eljoker
I have 35% tint on my car and getting it redone next week. I am leaving the 35% on the rear window, but dont know if i should do the doors in 20% or 5%.

All I car about is seeing out the back and the front.

By my calculations (stfu, lol) 35% in the back will alow enough light to come in if I have 5% on the doors.

What do you guys think?
I did 20% rear doors and rear glass with 35% front door glass. The Front door glass here in NJ are not supposed to be tinted but 35% seems light enough that I've never been questioned on it even if pulled over for something other than tinted glass.

There are pics in my garage if you want to take a look.
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #1443  
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Originally Posted by duke56
I did 20% rear doors and rear glass with 35% front door glass. The Front door glass here in NJ are not supposed to be tinted but 35% seems light enough that I've never been questioned on it even if pulled over for something other than tinted glass.

There are pics in my garage if you want to take a look.
Looks like 20% it is, nice car btw, dame color as mine.
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #1444  
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Originally Posted by Wesley Givin
New to the site. Looking around pretty much everywhere in the 7th Gen pop and especially around the tires/wheels/rims to put towards the new Max. I have a 2012 SP/TP SV with 19's. Thinking 20's with -5 profile as recommended on sticky for "will this fit". Certain websites and rim shops ive noticed has 9.5 or the 8.5. SINCE the OE is 8... how much of a problem is the depth of .5? As for BOLT pattern, offset, and hub bore what does that mean? Appreciate the help if able to!!!

RIMS thinking about getting... http://www.militarydiscountrims.com/...isio-5720.html
stick with widths of 8"-9". 9" is kinda wide for this car in the front. The rear, you could 10" or 10.5" if you got a staggered setup. Read here for the other terms you mentioned. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/index.jsp
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:36 AM
  #1445  
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Originally Posted by Car Addict
stick with widths of 8"-9". 9" is kinda wide for this car in the front. The rear, you could 10" or 10.5" if you got a staggered setup. Read here for the other terms you mentioned. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/index.jsp
Appreciate the advice and info. I am still looking for descent rims, those wont do me any justice... im assuming the bolt pattern is 5-114? due to TIRE RACK giving me every rim with that pattern to fit. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction...
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 11:15 AM
  #1446  
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Originally Posted by Wesley Givin
Appreciate the advice and info. I am still looking for descent rims, those wont do me any justice... im assuming the bolt pattern is 5-114? due to TIRE RACK giving me every rim with that pattern to fit. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction...
yup. look on superbuytires.com. much more selection.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #1447  
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Paint problems

My Maxima is almost 2 months old. I had MAJOR issues with paint damage on front bumper after taking delivery. Issues I did not see until 2 days later when we were waxing the car. Scratches, overspray, paint on the black grille parts. Took car back to dealership. They said damaged during shipping. Wonders why shipper would paint over their booboos??? Dealership had bumper repainted. Looks like someone who was being trained repainted the bumper. New scratches, adhesive in paint, old scratches not painted. Sent it back to be repainted again. Looked it over, was 99% good so I took the car. I was simply sick of dealing with it.

Got in the car, the leather steering wheel was ripped while it had been back and forth to the paint shop. With complaint, I got the dealership to give me a new steering wheel which only took them 3 times to get aligned.

After I complained to Nissan headquarters, I've got free oil changes for a year. Whoopie doo. Never an "I am sorry" from the general sales manager.

Here I am 2 months later and I'm noticing paint cracking on the back bumper which was not there when I purchased the car. It's cracked on the driver's side where there is the 90 degree angle in the bumper and on the other side where the bumper comes to a point, it's chipped off. I then looked back on the other side where the bumper comes to a point and noticed a paint touch up in the wheel well that I had not noticed before. The paint color does not match. It's a bright white not winter frost and you can tell it was painted to cover a chip, because it's not a flat spot.

Anyway, I'm beyond agitated since it seems every time I wash my car, I find more issues with the paint. Is anyone else having issue with paint on the back bumper? Nissan previously told me they don't warranty paint. I mean I get that... to an extent. They aren't going to cover chipped paint from rocks, but this seems to be happening due to crappy paint or design?

Should or can I go to a different dealership than the one I bought the car from to address the new paint issues? I loathe the dealership I bought the car from. Help! Thanks!
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 09:19 PM
  #1448  
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Originally Posted by Amixam12
Should or can I go to a different dealership than the one I bought the car from to address the new paint issues? I loathe the dealership I bought the car from. Help! Thanks!
you can go to any dealership in the country
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #1449  
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Originally Posted by Car Addict
you can go to any dealership in the country
Failure. Today I went to a different dealership who told me to go back to the dealership I bought it from.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #1450  
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Originally Posted by Amixam12
Failure. Today I went to a different dealership who told me to go back to the dealership I bought it from.
Hmm, I've had work done at a different dealer.

Last edited by Car Addict; Apr 4, 2012 at 06:24 PM.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #1451  
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Originally Posted by Amixam12
Failure. Today I went to a different dealership who told me to go back to the dealership I bought it from.
Your story is very unpleasant. If the car was damage in shipping/transit, it shouldnt be your problem. I would have wanted a car minus the paint damage and new. A damage car (paint or wheels) is not a new car. They dont sell clothing like that in the clothes store unless it mark down and sold as irregular. The dealership shouldnt have accepted a car thats damaged and they shouldnt be selling it as new.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #1452  
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Time to call a lawyer
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:40 PM
  #1453  
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Originally Posted by ViperKiller
wow...don't know why but I'm always surprised by the lack of basic mechanical knowledge shown by people on most internet car/bike forums.

So instead of wasting my time trying to explain this I'll just say that both you and even more so, your roommate, need to find a friendly mechanic who doesn't get his info/knowledge from the web and ask him to help you out. Or, to simply find out how out of whack your ideas are about OCIs get a sample kit from Blackstone Labs and let them tell you just how long the oil in your car is good for.

ignorance...and i have and at 5000 miles my oil doesnt have much life left in it...
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #1454  
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What the best oem online parts store?
Old Apr 18, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #1455  
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Off Set

Ik I'm not new to the site but I don't think creating a new thread would be needed. I'm wanting to go from the stock 19s to 20s but not lowering the car, what off set will I need to run to make the wheels flush with the fenders? Thanks.
Old Apr 18, 2012 | 05:58 PM
  #1456  
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Originally Posted by rh0214
Ik I'm not new to the site but I don't think creating a new thread would be needed. I'm wanting to go from the stock 19s to 20s but not lowering the car, what off set will I need to run to make the wheels flush with the fenders? Thanks.
depends on the wheel width
Old Apr 18, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #1457  
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Originally Posted by Car Addict
depends on the wheel width
8.5 or 9.5 thanks
Old Apr 19, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #1458  
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Originally Posted by rh0214
8.5 or 9.5 thanks
30 - 40 offset for 8.5
9.5 might be too wide for the front
Old Apr 20, 2012 | 09:30 AM
  #1459  
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is 20x10.5 possible in the front? Offset 38
Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:04 AM
  #1460  
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Originally Posted by eljoker
is 20x10.5 possible in the front? Offset 38
I highly doubt it. The rear, yes. Offset might need to be in the mid 40s though.
Old May 20, 2012 | 05:29 AM
  #1461  
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Hey guys, warranty question. How do I know when it expires? Is it 3 years from original sales date or date built? And how do I know if it's still active? I bought my '09 from an out-of-state dealer last june with 28,000 miles on it. Has 33,000 on it now. I've heard that missing oil changes or routine maintenance checks can void your warranty, and I haven't been in to see them for anything yet.

Last edited by riles; May 20, 2012 at 05:33 AM.
Old May 20, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #1462  
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I believe it's 3 years from the sale date or 36k miles. Whichever comes first. The dealer could probably run the VIN to see when it was first sold.
Old May 20, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #1463  
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That's what i was hoping for, thx Car Addict.
Old May 21, 2012 | 12:30 AM
  #1464  
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riles - Car Addict is, as usual, correct. Your dealer can get your 'in service date' (day the car was sold new) with a click of a mouse.

In addition, the Maxima has a 5 year power train (engine, tranny, differential, etc) warranty, and your '09 Maxima also has a TEN YEAR CVT warranty, which Nissan added back in '09 to counter rumors the CVT was not reliable.
Old May 23, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #1465  
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Thanks, light. I wasn't aware of the ten year CVT warranty, it's pretty comforting.
Old May 23, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #1466  
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
riles - Car Addict is, as usual, correct. Your dealer can get your 'in service date' (day the car was sold new) with a click of a mouse.

In addition, the Maxima has a 5 year power train (engine, tranny, differential, etc) warranty, and your '09 Maxima also has a TEN YEAR CVT warranty, which Nissan added back in '09 to counter rumors the CVT was not reliable.
Does the other model year get the same warranty?
Old May 23, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #1467  
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Originally Posted by Jam_Roc
Does the other model year get the same warranty?
2009 & 2010 is 10 years or 120,000 miles whichever comes first. I believe that the 2011 and years there after is the standard 5 year or 60,000 miles
Old May 23, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #1468  
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Darn it!
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #1469  
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Originally Posted by Amixam12
My Maxima is almost 2 months old. I had MAJOR issues with paint damage on front bumper after taking delivery. Issues I did not see until 2 days later when we were waxing the car. Scratches, overspray, paint on the black grille parts. Took car back to dealership. They said damaged during shipping. Wonders why shipper would paint over their booboos??? Dealership had bumper repainted. Looks like someone who was being trained repainted the bumper. New scratches, adhesive in paint, old scratches not painted. Sent it back to be repainted again. Looked it over, was 99% good so I took the car. I was simply sick of dealing with it.

Got in the car, the leather steering wheel was ripped while it had been back and forth to the paint shop. With complaint, I got the dealership to give me a new steering wheel which only took them 3 times to get aligned.

After I complained to Nissan headquarters, I've got free oil changes for a year. Whoopie doo. Never an "I am sorry" from the general sales manager.

Here I am 2 months later and I'm noticing paint cracking on the back bumper which was not there when I purchased the car. It's cracked on the driver's side where there is the 90 degree angle in the bumper and on the other side where the bumper comes to a point, it's chipped off. I then looked back on the other side where the bumper comes to a point and noticed a paint touch up in the wheel well that I had not noticed before. The paint color does not match. It's a bright white not winter frost and you can tell it was painted to cover a chip, because it's not a flat spot.

Anyway, I'm beyond agitated since it seems every time I wash my car, I find more issues with the paint. Is anyone else having issue with paint on the back bumper? Nissan previously told me they don't warranty paint. I mean I get that... to an extent. They aren't going to cover chipped paint from rocks, but this seems to be happening due to crappy paint or design?

Should or can I go to a different dealership than the one I bought the car from to address the new paint issues? I loathe the dealership I bought the car from. Help! Thanks!
Yes! If you are having that much trouble out of a dealership, take it somewhere else. Search for reviews on the internet before going. Dealerships can be shifty. I know one around here has been in hot water for skipping services on cars when they are being paid for them. Like trans services. Something you wouldn't know about until way later, if ever. If you registered your complaint in the beginning with the paint, and they agreed to fix it, it's their baby. No matter how many times they have to work on it. I just don't know if another dealership would pick up on that agreement and help you out. Not sure how that goes.
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #1470  
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
riles - Car Addict is, as usual, correct. Your dealer can get your 'in service date' (day the car was sold new) with a click of a mouse.

In addition, the Maxima has a 5 year power train (engine, tranny, differential, etc) warranty, and your '09 Maxima also has a TEN YEAR CVT warranty, which Nissan added back in '09 to counter rumors the CVT was not reliable.
Do warranties transfer over when a car is sold? I just bought a 2009 Maxima, and I've been wondering if any kind of warranty was still good. I bought it from an individual and paid cash, so it didn't come from a dealership. It's got 50k miles on it.
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #1471  
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Originally Posted by corbryant
Do warranties transfer over when a car is sold? I just bought a 2009 Maxima, and I've been wondering if any kind of warranty was still good. I bought it from an individual and paid cash, so it didn't come from a dealership. It's got 50k miles on it.
The 36K miles (or 36 months, whichever comes first) warranty has expired, but I would think the car still has 10K miles left on the power train warranty (or 60 months from the date of first sale, whichever comes first), and 50K miles left on the CVT warranty (or ten years from the date of first sale, whichever comes first).

Nissan's warranty is tied to the car, not the owner.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 05:20 AM
  #1472  
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
The 36K miles (or 36 months, whichever comes first) warranty has expired, but I would think the car still has 10K miles left on the power train warranty (or 60 months from the date of first sale, whichever comes first), and 50K miles left on the CVT warranty (or ten years from the date of first sale, whichever comes first).

Nissan's warranty is tied to the car, not the owner.
The CVT is 120,000 miles or 10 years whichever comes first Nissan did this to the 2009 and 2010 CVT in the Maxima
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by PSU09MAXIMA
The CVT is 120,000 miles or 10 years whichever comes first Nissan did this to the 2009 and 2010 CVT in the Maxima

Ahhh! Yet 20K additional miles than I realized (120K instead of 100K) covered on the CVT! Thanks, Nittany Lion.

I was a little disappointed when Nissan dropped the extra coverage on the CVT with the '11 model year. The extra coverage on the '09 and '10 were simply to take the question of CVT reliability out of the shopping equation until it had a chance to prove itself to be solid and dependable. Which it did.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 04:26 PM
  #1474  
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
Ahhh! Yet 20K additional miles than I realized (120K instead of 100K) covered on the CVT! Thanks, Nittany Lion.

I was a little disappointed when Nissan dropped the extra coverage on the CVT with the '11 model year. The extra coverage on the '09 and '10 were simply to take the question of CVT reliability out of the shopping equation until it had a chance to prove itself to be solid and dependable. Which it did.
Yeah man no problem.

Exactly there were a ton of rumors going around about it at the time so thats why they did it.

My 2009 only has like 24,600 miles on it as of right now so obviously I'll never hit either one haha. I plan on keeping my Max till at least 2017 maybe longer depending on my life at that point and whats out there.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #1475  
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Has anyone figured out how to get the Iphone 4s to play video through rca cables? I have the apple composite cables. I have ebrake fully depressed and car in park. All I get is sound but no picture, just black screen with time in top right hand corner, or all black screen. Do I need a certain App?
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 04:45 AM
  #1476  
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I have a quick question! I have heated steering wheels. Once I start it, I notice that it quickly stops emitting heat and warmth after 2-3 minutes. It just stays "lukewarm", at best. So then, I have to hit the button to turn it off, and re-hit the same button to turn it on again.

Its a hassle to turn off/turn on to secure 5-10 minutes of heat. Any input on if that's how it's suppose to be?
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #1477  
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Any updates on this issue?

Originally Posted by Weirwythal
Hello everyone, hoping someone can give me some suggestions with this. I tried a few searches but didn't find anything quite like this - my apologies if this is a repeat.

Finally started playing around with the navigation system in my under-1-month-old 2010 Maxima (I absolutely love the car, by the way) and noted there is a "Transfer Address Book" function. I did the "download address book" function to a USB drive and copied the resultant files to my PC.

Noted there are three files: homelocation.hlc, storedlocation.slc, and stsfile. Opening the .hlc and .slc files with Notepad, I noted they appear to contain the longitude and latitude coordinates of the saved locations. I have a whole bunch of addresses (including longitude and latitude) from my old standalone GPS I'd like to be able to enter into the Nissan Navigation system, but I find programming the addresses via the touchscreen interface extremely time-consuming (and sometimes inaccurate - quite a few of my locations don't have "accurate" street numbers).

Is there any application anyone knows of I can use to edit those .hlc and .slc files on the PC so that I can edit them on the computer, then use the "Upload Address Book" function to transfer them back into the navigation system?

Thanks in advance.
Has anyone found out how to do this?
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 04:19 PM
  #1478  
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Originally Posted by i8it
I have a quick question! I have heated steering wheels. Once I start it, I notice that it quickly stops emitting heat and warmth after 2-3 minutes. It just stays "lukewarm", at best. So then, I have to hit the button to turn it off, and re-hit the same button to turn it on again.

Its a hassle to turn off/turn on to secure 5-10 minutes of heat. Any input on if that's how it's suppose to be?
That is how the Nissan heated steering wheel has worked on both the 6th and 7th generations. The controlling thermostat is set at 70 degrees, and once the sensor senses 70 degrees in the steering wheel, it turns the heater off until it senses the wheel is cold again.

This system works acceptably well in midwinter, when things are cold, but becomes more tentative when outdoor temperatures climb into the fifties and sixties, and the temperature inside the car on sunny days tends to reach seventy degrees.

Personally, I have always wished the steering wheel heater would not get the wheel quite so hot the first minute (mine very quickly gets too hot to comfortably touch), and would not turn itself off for at least fifteen minutes.

But I'm am just thankful we have this feature. I have had exceptionally poor circulation in my hands for many years, and before the days of heated steering wheels, if the weather was cold, my wife had to do the driving, as my hands were two ice blocks, with or without gloves.

Over the last eight years, quite a few folks have questioned how this Nissan system works, both here and on the 6th gen board. Nissan may eventually hear these questions and bring their system up to third millenium standards. We can hope.
Old Jun 26, 2012 | 04:03 PM
  #1479  
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I am in the market for a Maxima SV 2009 or newer and am hoping someone can help me out. I love everything about the SV premium except for the woodgrain trim. Does anyone know any cheap alternatives for replacing the woodgrain? I don't want to do the cheap adhesive and I know it is very expensive to have the trim removed and replaced by Nissan. I have heard of people having it removed and painted by a professional. Does anyone personally know if this method works well or of any other methods? Thanks!
Old Jun 30, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #1480  
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Last oil change was Mobile 1 full syn. 5w-30. I got a jug of royal purple 10w-30 sitting there. Can I use it ? Is 10w to high for summer.



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