Not to be an idiot, but what does a knock or ping sound like? Would it be blatantly obvious if it was happening?

 

Here's some info on Advancing your timing and what happens:


Timing advance" refers to the number of degrees before top dead center (BTDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber during the compression stroke. Retarded timing can be defined as; changing the timing so that fuel ignition happens later than the manufacturer's specified time. If the ignition timing, specified by the manufacturer, was to be set at 12 degrees BTDC and it was adjusted to a number lower than 12 degrees BTDC, it would be retarded. In a classic ignition system with breaker points, the basic timing can be set statically using a test light or dynamically using a timing light.

Timing advance is required because it takes time to burn the air-fuel mixture. Igniting the mixture before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC) will allow the mixture to fully burn soon after the piston reaches TDC. If the air-fuel mixture is ignited at the correct time, maximum pressure in the cylinder will occur sometime after the piston reaches TDC allowing the ignited mixture to push the piston down the cylinder with the greatest force. Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burnt is about 20 degrees ATDC. This will utilize the engine's power producing potential. If the ignition spark occurs at a position that is too advanced relative to piston position, the rapidly expanding air-fuel mixture can actually push against the piston still moving up, causing detonation and lost power. If the spark occurs too retarded relative to the piston position, maximum cylinder pressure will occur after the piston is already traveling too far down the cylinder. This results in lost power, high emissions, and unburned fuel.

The ignition timing will need to become increasingly advanced (relative to TDC) as the engine speed increases so that the air-fuel mixture has the correct amount of time to fully burn. As the engine speed increases, the time available to burn the mixture decreases but the burning itself proceeds at the same speed, it needs to be started increasingly earlier to complete in time. Poor volumetric efficiency at lower engine speeds also requires increased advancement of ignition timing. The correct timing advance for a given engine speed will allow for maximum cylinder pressure to be achieved at the correct crankshaft angular position. When setting the timing for an automobile engine, the factory timing setting can usually be found on a sticker in the engine bay.

The ignition timing is also dependent on the load of the engine with more load (larger throttle opening) requiring less advance (the mixture burns faster). Also it is dependent on the temperature of the engine with lower temperature allowing for more advance. The speed with which the mixture burns depends also on the Octane rating of the fuel and also the air/fuel ratio.

 

^^ so does this mean our cars all have different timings set? And if so does that explain why some cars do high 13s in the 1/4 and others dont?

 

Not necessarily and no, it doesn't explain that factor.

I really believe that most of the time it is conditions (knowing how to launch, heat, track, tires bald or new, weight of the car and driver, etc. day or night) that mostly determines how well one car will run as opposed to the other of the same model, make and brand.

I had a friend who I let drive my 03 Max and he says it's fast when he drives it and then when I drive it he says it seems faster, that's because I know how to launch it due to knowing my car and he doesn't.

Every now and again though you come across a freak car that just hauls b@ll$ right off the lot with no tuning or nothing-unexplained phenomena.

 

I got the premium package, it was set at 0. Maybe the sports package is set at -2.

 

Not necessarily, I have the Premium and it was set at -2.

I guess there must be some reason why Nissan had some set at 0, some at -2 and some at +2 but I suspect that we'll never know.

 

this is really weird , so guys with the -2 stock, are you advancing it to 0, or your going to +2? , which will be a 4 degree advance.

And guys with the 0 stock, i assume your advance will be +2

 

In essence you are advancing the timing 4 degrees if you're at -2, but by the calculations you're only going 250rpms over with a +2 degree advance.

It's not like we're advancing 2-3k over the stock settings so it isn't going to hurt us any.

 

I went from -2 to +2 showing on the digital indicator on the BD (meaning I advance it +4). You know when first going into settings on the BD for the first time, before changing the timing, it showed -2. Wondering is this the setting the car was in or is this just the lowest number the BD is showing to start from. Meaning that its not showing the stock setting, only the settings BD allows (making sense here?).
Ok, somebody call BD, then fine out the lastest on the WOT!!lol

 

Now I'm really confused. Somebody please clear this up lol. I had mine set at +2 which was really +4 I guess and had no problems. I could have sworn that the settings screen said I was at -2 to begin with, but when I went into the advance timing screen it started off at 0, and I raised it to +2. Sounds like we need the BD guys to give their 2 cents becuase I really don't know what setting is 'stock' and what is 'advanced +2'

 

yea i understand now, then again maybe its the bd tuner that doesnt show the exact stock setting......btw how does your car run with the +4 advance?

 

Mine ran fine with it set at +2 (+4 total), I just want to make sure no harm can come from this.

 

Mine made a major difference from -2 to +2. No problems what so ever!

 

yea to be sure i would be give bd a call to see what they say

 

Ok so I feel better. Any idea if it would run stronger with another +2 advance The triple dog Gt lets you go up as much as +4 and as low as -2.

 

I emailed BD support (can't call while I'm at work). Hopefully I'll hear back today and clear all this up.

 

Nice! Keep us posted.

 

hmmm this bully dog thing sounds interesting....but for the price of 300-400$ is it worth the money?

 

Yes. I have seen a huge difference with no other mods. I drove it in stock mode last week for a few days and once I programmed it back to 'premium' mode and advanced the timing again, wow. It makes a huge difference. Highly recommended.

 

Agreed.

Bump for updates.

 

When is this wot remover update coming out, im getting tired of waiting .........bk2k3max do you have any updates for us?

 

I haven't heard anything yet and I'm trying as hard as you all are to be patient and not rush them into something they may just be doing for the benefit of us.

As soon as I get an update I will let you all know. I promise!

 

Thanks

 

does anyone near by westchester county ny or near ny CT area wanna meet up so i could try this out??? please??? lol

 

whats the difference from the triple dog and the pup?

 

any updates on this, i guess pretty much bullydog removing the wot governor is dead

 

thats what it looks like, i've given up and am using the bullydog on my qx56. Much funner and you can actually feel a huge difference, i'm talking like 30hp difference no joke. The acceleration is insane.

 

Have you tried to speak with your contact there? I'd like to get confirmation that all efforts are dead before we give up!

 

has anyone taken this thing to the track prior to and after installing. How does it pull past 100?

 

Is that a no? If so, could you forward his info to me? Maybe you have given up, but I have NOT.

 

i think bk2k3max was the person who was with the contact info from bullydog.

 

Yes, I'am and here's the last word I got from Tim at BD:

"He has been looking though the files but still cant seem to find any signs of WOT restriction"

So this is really bad news for us

This can only mean I thing; that the problem isn't a WOT but rather an issue with the CVT. Think about it, the hesitation that we feel isn't coming from the engine/intake but you can definitely feel it in the front wheels and in the CVT.

I personally think as I believe someone here mentioned before that the problem lies within Nissan's answer to the Torque Steer issues from previous Maximas and how to curb that problem.

When need to find a company that specializes in CVT programming so that those of us who don't mind a little Torque Steer can unleash the beast in this car and not feel that slight hesitation when we stomp on the pedal.

One little remedy that can help us to compensate for the problem is to slightly nudge the gas pedal and let your car travel about 1ft and the thing just flat out flies after that.

Sorry Fellaz, I tried

 

Not the best news, but thanks for the info.

 

ughhh mannn , thanks for the update bk2k3max.... this really sucks

 

For some reason my car felt quicker stock than with bullydog any hints? I set the speed to 170 or was it 180? Anywho, the max setting on that and the max setting on the rpm gov. And adjusted my timing to +2 degrees. What else did u guys set and to what setting? Thanks

 

I did the same settings you did but my car didn't really feel as quick until I did the +2 degrees timing advance, now it feels really fast.

Not sure what to tell you but if it feels faster stock then reset it back to stock and sell your BD on Ebay for about $20 less than when you by it new

 

Did u guy set the idle rpm also?

 

even tho it looks like the wot remover is dead, i placed an order yesterday for a bullydog, ive heard nothing but good things with the +2 timing advance

 

I am also thinking about ordering a BD. How much does it affect gas mileage?

 

I briefly considered the BD until I saw this post (see post 741) on a G35 forum. Although the engines aren't identical I think the results would be similar on the Max.