Can 2 rear subs be simply replaced with beefier ones?
Can 2 rear subs be simply replaced with beefier ones?
don't get me wrong, i'm very happy with the sound of the stock bose system. i know there's been some threads and debate on it and i think it really just comes down to your individual requirements and taste. i did read a post a couple days ago about how whimpy the magnets were on the 2 rear subs up on the back deck there behind the rear passengers' heads. i took a look yesterday and WOW...it's hard to even call that a magnet it's so small
it just got me wondering if there's any "plug and play" type of option to put more solid subs back there for some more low end without needing to install an aftermarket amp, etc.? with a bose system, i'm kinda doubting it..but figured i'd see if anyone knew.
thanks in advance!
it just got me wondering if there's any "plug and play" type of option to put more solid subs back there for some more low end without needing to install an aftermarket amp, etc.? with a bose system, i'm kinda doubting it..but figured i'd see if anyone knew. thanks in advance!
According to the parts diagram, the speakers in the rear deck are 6x9 speakers. So, finding a direct fit replacement is easy. However, it's anyone's guess how a replacement set would actually perform. You may be better served by putting a single 10" speaker in an enclosure in the trunk. This obviously more work but I'd be willing to bet it would sound better.
Replacing Rear Subs
don't get me wrong, i'm very happy with the sound of the stock bose system. i know there's been some threads and debate on it and i think it really just comes down to your individual requirements and taste. i did read a post a couple days ago about how whimpy the magnets were on the 2 rear subs up on the back deck there behind the rear passengers' heads. i took a look yesterday and WOW...it's hard to even call that a magnet it's so small
it just got me wondering if there's any "plug and play" type of option to put more solid subs back there for some more low end without needing to install an aftermarket amp, etc.? with a bose system, i'm kinda doubting it..but figured i'd see if anyone knew.
thanks in advance!
it just got me wondering if there's any "plug and play" type of option to put more solid subs back there for some more low end without needing to install an aftermarket amp, etc.? with a bose system, i'm kinda doubting it..but figured i'd see if anyone knew. thanks in advance!
Here are my suggestion(s):
1) You can go ahead, and replace those 6x9's - but you are going to have to do your homework. I guaruntee they have some special OHM rating, as do most other factory BOSE systems, so unless you can match that OHM rating, then you are going to eventually cook the amp that is in the back. The other thing to remember is the BOSE amp MAY have a crossover built into it to prevent mid & high frequencies from going to the 6x9's. The only company I ever remember making 6x9 subs was KICKER, and those are discontinued...
A quick google search did turn these up however:
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=264-837
2) My other suggestion would be to go with a self powered add-on sub - I have an Infinity Basslink II (also discontinued) and it has made a huge difference. There are several great choices out there, and the original Infinity Basslink is still widely available.
I am going to post a thread in the next few days showing my install, with pics, so everyone can see how I did mine - It doesn't break any windows, but it does give plenty of kick, and fills in the deeeeep stuff. You would be surprised how much is lacking.
Stock speakers almost always have Low OHM ratings, Low Wattage Ratings and are made out of the cheapest possible materials.
RMS is Almost Never the Issue with an Amplifier, it's the Peak Power (What the AMP can output with a sudden burst of sound) that causes the problem - peaks in the music cause distortion, and it's distortion that destroys speakers.
It's all Directly corrolated, however no stock speakers are engineered to handle the power of an aftermarket amp.
Also, on a side note, the BOSE amp in this car is a 9-channel amp. IF such a thing was available as an aftermarket piece, installation would be a nightmare (existing speaker wire in the car would be worthless - it would degrade the sound quality enough to defeat the purpose of even replacing the thing)
All that being said, I don't think rawbutt's issue is with power/volume - it sounds to me like he is lacking depth, and low frequency response, which is why adding a sub will make a huge difference.
RMS is Almost Never the Issue with an Amplifier, it's the Peak Power (What the AMP can output with a sudden burst of sound) that causes the problem - peaks in the music cause distortion, and it's distortion that destroys speakers.
It's all Directly corrolated, however no stock speakers are engineered to handle the power of an aftermarket amp.
Also, on a side note, the BOSE amp in this car is a 9-channel amp. IF such a thing was available as an aftermarket piece, installation would be a nightmare (existing speaker wire in the car would be worthless - it would degrade the sound quality enough to defeat the purpose of even replacing the thing)
All that being said, I don't think rawbutt's issue is with power/volume - it sounds to me like he is lacking depth, and low frequency response, which is why adding a sub will make a huge difference.
A Word of Warning...
If you need more bottom end without sacrificing trunk space, go with something like I did - my Basslink II takes up only 1 cubic foot of trunk space, and nestles into the Left corner of the trunk closest to the rear of the car. To me thats wasted space anyway, nothing else fits there, and the pocket under the trunk mat on that side is empty (the right side houses the jack, lug wrench, etc.)
Pictures of my install are coming, I promise.
Your options for placing anything in the rear deck are almost non existant. Take a look under the cover in the trunk. If you have a BOSE system, The BOSE amp is bolted to the underside of the package tray on the right, and on the left side the bluetooth module and XM Tuner sit on top of one another. One either side of those are the 6x9's. Nissan used just about every available inch of real estate back there. Nevermind all the wiring, harnesses, etc you could damage/need to reroute in order just to fabricate the holes! If you have the optional rear shade, forget about it entirely.
If you need more bottom end without sacrificing trunk space, go with something like I did - my Basslink II takes up only 1 cubic foot of trunk space, and nestles into the Left corner of the trunk closest to the rear of the car. To me thats wasted space anyway, nothing else fits there, and the pocket under the trunk mat on that side is empty (the right side houses the jack, lug wrench, etc.)
Pictures of my install are coming, I promise.
If you need more bottom end without sacrificing trunk space, go with something like I did - my Basslink II takes up only 1 cubic foot of trunk space, and nestles into the Left corner of the trunk closest to the rear of the car. To me thats wasted space anyway, nothing else fits there, and the pocket under the trunk mat on that side is empty (the right side houses the jack, lug wrench, etc.)
Pictures of my install are coming, I promise.
Question how does the sound, sound like..?...Do u have alot of bass, or does the music sound clear..?
Personally, I think it sounds great... I have all the adjustments on my sub set to about 3/4 of thier max, and just rounds out the bottom end nicely... the bright front sound stage really is offset by the increased low range... To me, it's perfect now...
My 2004 Max had Bose which after doing extensive searching found were 1/2 ohm rating. I spliced the wires to the 6x9's ran to a Pioneer 800 watt amp and then from the amp to 2 Diamond D3 12's. Worked fine. The stock system came with a 10in woofer which sucked ****. I eventually just replaced all door speakers, the 6x9's, and the Head unit. Much better now. I can hear my car at least 2 blocks away turned all the way up and make out the words to the music. rattle the neighbors walls when at volume 8 out of 40.
rediculous. Once you do the box in the trunk you will want to do the rest, just a matter of time.
rediculous. Once you do the box in the trunk you will want to do the rest, just a matter of time.
As Promised...
Here is the link to my Basslink install thread if anyone is interested...
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...tallation.html
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...tallation.html
Keep the stock system and get a JL 8w7, 1cf box slot port, bass issue solved.
And dont forget about the wow factor of that 8 sounding like a 12.
I have 2 in my trunk now that will put guys BIGGER systems to shame!
And dont forget about the wow factor of that 8 sounding like a 12.
I have 2 in my trunk now that will put guys BIGGER systems to shame!
Last edited by ButtaMax; Mar 9, 2010 at 06:27 AM.
As mentioned in another post, Bose has always had a strange OHM rating on their speakers and systems. I'm not a "radio" and "speaker" guy, but have always heard it causes issues when trying to use aftermarket stuff....
My thoughts....
Get an amp, build a custom box under your package tray, install a couple of these (may have to mod the speaker holes a little):

I'd also suggest replacing all other speakers in the car with these:

These sound great especially with a Pioneer head unit.
The Amp I suggest is this:

You'd need 1 of them for the front door then one of these for the rear:

All of these are available via this site:
http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/default.aspx
I've ran Boston in several of my cars, and when it comes time to get the right speakers/subwoofers/amps for my Maxima, this is what I'll be going with.
And by the way not 'overly expensive' for the quality, although when you go around the site you'll find that they do have some extremely high end audio for your car.
Like I said, just my thoughts.
oh, and there's this just so you'll see this isn't just 'randomness'.....
http://www.pasmag.com/index.php?opti...k=view&id=1058
A review of the Subwoofer I've suggested.
Get an amp, build a custom box under your package tray, install a couple of these (may have to mod the speaker holes a little):

I'd also suggest replacing all other speakers in the car with these:

These sound great especially with a Pioneer head unit.
The Amp I suggest is this:

You'd need 1 of them for the front door then one of these for the rear:

All of these are available via this site:
http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/default.aspx
I've ran Boston in several of my cars, and when it comes time to get the right speakers/subwoofers/amps for my Maxima, this is what I'll be going with.
And by the way not 'overly expensive' for the quality, although when you go around the site you'll find that they do have some extremely high end audio for your car.
Like I said, just my thoughts.
oh, and there's this just so you'll see this isn't just 'randomness'.....
http://www.pasmag.com/index.php?opti...k=view&id=1058
A review of the Subwoofer I've suggested.
Last edited by SiathLinux; Mar 9, 2010 at 04:39 PM.
You're better off getting a sub and amp combo. If you try to hardwire something in and match the ohm's of the bose amp you will just keep wondering why your stereo sounds worse. Go with boston acoustics if you want to change out the interior speakers. I have boston acoustics components up front and coaxials in the rear running off a 4 ch JL amp. 1 JL 12w6 running off a separate mono kicker amp. All of that hardware is hooked up to the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 sound processor for fine tuning. The sound processor allows me to control each speaker with their own separate EQ curves and crossover points. I connect to the sound processor via bluetooth through my windows mobile phone. By using the sound processor you still get to keep your steering wheel controls, bluetooth handsfree, and backup camera. The best thing is that everything looks stock.
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