Ya something like that I forget what I did haha

 

Since you have an aftermarket intake you more than likely have removed the rubber tube that connects the stock box to the throttle body so you don't have to worry about capping anything off unless you go back to the stock box

 

Perfect. Thank you.

 

I just took the Stillen intake off and installed the stock intake back in...capped the opening for the sound generator tube, and the car is now quieter than it was stock! I put a K&N filter in there as this thing is staying in.

 

Lol thats exactly what i did today as soon as i came home from work. That pos tube was a biotch to get back in. Ill cap it this weekend as i never liked the idea of more air leaving the intake tube than necessary. I have thw k&n drop in also.

Ive had 2 intakes now and i hate that our manifold gets so hot. I did a feel test and the majority of the heat that rises up out of the entire bay is right in the middle in the front of the intake manifold.

I know engines get hot from a physical mechanical standpoint, just wish there was a way to keep it cooled to a certain extent.

 

It does get pretty darn hot under there. I can go back in there after a while and it's still pretty hot.

 

Sorry to go off topic from the OP. But yinz are making me think about the heat. Can we program our fans to turn on sooner? Perhaps run longer and come on more often. Help keeps things a little cooler if possible. Perhaps I should question this on another thread...

 

If you're worried about manifold heat you should invest in the caf phelonic spacers. Even after long drives my manifold gets really warm /slight hot but it's definitely cooler that it was when it was stock.

 

Link?

Has anybody else used these for heat reduction? Any input?

 

http://cxjperformance.com/index.php?...&product_id=50

I'm actually surprised that this mod is not talked about more because when I first joined the forum it was highly rated.

 

So yeah, yesterday I removed this tube and blocked off the hole. This thing makes a huge difference! My car is so quite under load now in the cabin! Didn't realize how annoying that the in cabin noise was until today after driving on the highway. Love it! The black rubber cap was only $3 at home depot and fit perfectly!

 

I'm enjoying the quiet ride for sure .

 

Hey Ross can you give me the part number of the plug you used or a pic? Also, i already have the cxj spacer on the manifold and the tb. Its still hot out here and i dont run the max hard very often.

Do yall have your engine cover on? I have mine off and have so for some time. Also, the matting under the top of the hood, does that really matter? I know theres nothing i can do about how hot my engine gets, just thinking of ways to get more airflow in there.

 

This was the exact one that I bought.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-1-1-...101/100372302/

But yes overall you are in a very hot area so maybe that's why? But yes I've been running the car without the engine cover for over a year now but the matting is really just for insulation I'm assuming but idk if it holds more value

 

I believe the matting is a fire retardant but that's just a guess.

 

Any of you guys got a pic of where this bad boy is located? I won't be under the hood for another month or so and mentally can't place it right now.

I'll admit this thread has piqued my curiosity and I'm thinking about doing it provided it's not a PITA. From what it looks like there has been no negative feedback from people who have done this...

Ross - thanks for the pic there of the cap..

 

Nope.

It is called NVH insulator. Noise, vibration, and harshness.
It does pass FMVSS302 burn standard, but is not there to stop fires. Just less noise from the engine bay, and stop a small amount of resonant vibration through the hood.

I used to work in the NVH industry supplying parts to all the OEMs.

 

That was my next guess... NVH over safety...figures! Thanks.

 

Sorry I should have taken pics but when you remove your air box you can't miss it!

But you're welcome buddy I had no idea what to look for because the original picture was deleted but now new members on here should be able to find this no problem.

 

Hey, I did this today and snapped a couple pictures. It literally took me 10 min. **Do this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for anything that happens to your car due to this post. This is just a recap of what I did to my car.** This is the cap I got. it was $2.90 at Lowes. This is the rubber intake hose I removed to get at the plastic noise maker tube. It connects the air box and throttle body. As you can see, there are three hose clamps that needed to be removed to take the intake hose out. I started by removing the cover to the air filter box. I needed to remove the hose clamp and then also disconnect the mass air flow sensor and the cable ties that held it in place. Here's what it looked like after I removed the air box lid exposing my air filter (red filter at bottom of picture). After I loosened all three hose clamps. I just pulled up and out on the rubber tube and the plastic "noise maker" slid out (it was held to the rubber tube with another hose clamp, but I didn't need to loosen this one until after I got it out). Here's the rubber intake hose with the plastic noise maker still attached (It's resting on the battery in the picture). I then removed the plastic noise maker and secured the cap over the hole. I could actually tighten it fairly tight, I kept checking the inside of the hole to make sure it wasn't collapsing, and it withheld quite a bit of pressure. After that, I just hooked the rubber intake hose back into place and tightened all the hose clamps back down. BAM. Quiet cabin.

 

Thank you for the write-up and thanks everyone else for the intel. Appreciated

 

Awesome writeup man! But yeah lol I was tightening mine and felt like it could tighten it forever so I stopped and the clamp is at about the same level as yours lol

 

Thanks for the great write-up! Just did mine and took for a quick spin. It's crazy how much cabin noise that thing made.

 

Did you take out the mass air flow sensor or just disconnect it?

 

I just disconnected it. Probably not even necessary, but it made it easier to get the hose out.

 

I left mine connected. Not a big deal to disconnect it to make it easier.

 

Thanks, I am going to do this as soon as I find the cap.

 

I used the same one that Ross posted from Home Depot. I put in my local store and it said it was in stock. Even told me what aisle it was in! Gotta love technology!

 

Thanks, I'll check out my local Home Depot on line.

 

Done and done, fellas! Thanks again for the write-up and I'm looking forward to seeing the in-cabin effects in a few weeks here.

 

Took a pic of the sound generator after I took it out as the pics I've seen didn't really do it justice as to how big the sucker really was:

 

I removed my sound generator today. Capped the opening with the one from Lowe's. Happy with the results.

I always wondered what the Nissan engineers said when they got the original feedback from marketing.....
"WTF? We've spent years trying to make the cabin quieter. And now you want it to be noisier?"

 

Exactly! "You want us to do what!"

 

Actually, I have the Autoenginuity system with the Nissan enhanced package. There is a work-support item that allows you to manually click a button and turn the radiator fans on low, med or high. It tried this and it made it hotter. You're just pulling air over a hot radiator and blowing it under the hood and swirling around more heat.

The stock intake keeps everything nice and cool - intake air temps never rise more than 5-10 degree over ambient. With a short-ram intake, you may as well hold a flame torch to the intake. Might sound good for a while, but it's no bueno. You best bet is to actually run a true CAI (which the stock air intake is a CAI).

Late,
Travis

 

Can't recommend this enough. Used the Fernco cap listed above and worked perfectly. Cabin sound went from a 10 (stock) to a 2. Took about $3 and 10 minutes.

 

One thing about this mod that bugged me was that when I tightened the screw for the cap hose clamp, there was no way to know when you were done. It was just a hose covering another rubber hose.

So today I dug out the plastic noise maker and sawed off the part of the connector tube that was originally in there. When I reconnected everything I was happy to find that there is now a true stopping point when tightening the hose clamp for the new cap.

Another note: the outside of the housing tube had a little rubber nub to hold on the original hose clamp. This time I took an exacto blade and trimmed the remnants of the nub so that the new hose clamp is totally flush.

 

I understand the new gen Max has a sound generator as well. It's part of the audio system. So one would guess if you had the Bose system you would have the High Performance version.

 

do you have to plug or cap off where it’s attached to the firewall once removed?

 

I took a gatorade bottle and cut about a 3rd from top. Melted body of bottle into top of the bottle until it sealed, into where the cap would go on the drink. fit perfectly