My Valentine One Install
My Valentine One Install
I am always trying to contribute to the forums I belong too......
I was able to finally get some time today to install my V1 from my old car to the Max!
LET THE INSTALL BEGIN................
My V1 was connected into the overhead light/moonroof panel of my old car, so I thought I would start there............

Panel pops out from the front (closest to the windshield) and slides forward to undo the rear hooks.........

Here you can see the 2 clips on top.......Ok, so I'm thinkin' - "3 connectors, one has to have 12v switched power". The top white connector is for the moonroof, the middle white connector is for the bluetooth mic and the gray connector for both courtesy lights and orange "night" light. I tried tapping into the top connector w/ my DMM - yup, sure enough found 12v and switched! Cool.....................................
Well not really, since this switch controls multi functions everytime I tapped into the wires, one "function" of the moonroof wouldn't work. No matter which "power" wire I tried........so no glory here..............movin' on......

This was the connector I was messin' with - black is ground and each other wire was 12v+.......back to the drawin' board.

Next up was to get behind the dash near the fuse box. Well lookin' at everything, I needed to start w/ this sill plate (front of it was holdin' the knee bolster to the dash) - it needed to go!

Here it is removed...........

Had to be careful - there were 2 clips at the front holdin' it in place as well as............

The rear of the sill plate had 3 clips holdin' it on place connecting to the next piece of trim.

Next to go was this cover peice - only visible when you open the door. Very easy to remove with a plastic panel pry bar. There are 2 clips (top and bottom) as well as 2 slots the slide forward into the dash. Took a little while to get it to "give" and pop off.

Here you can see it removed. It was necessary as the bottom clip "Hooks" into the knee bolster.

Pop the fuse access panel and you will see this screw. It is the only piece of hardware that holds the knee bolster to the dash. Once removed, just gently pull from the bottom of the knee bolster outwards and the clips will start "popping" out.

Once the knee bolster is removed, you have east access to everything. Here you can see the wire (red with silver stripe) I "tapped" into - it is switched. Should be the same on all 7th gen Max

Now I had to get behind the A pillar - not very easy since there is an Air Bag there. Needed to be very careful. Panel popped but was limited in movement by the blue clip seen above. This is so the panel doesn't go flying when the Air bag is deployed during a crash. Just take a needle nose pliers and twist it to get the panel to come loose.
Here you can see I started running the wire up the A pillar.

Wire run and attached with zip ties for a clean install. I did "clip" the ends to make them flush. After this, I neatly tucked the wire into the headliner running it all the way over to the rear view mirror.

Back to the fuse panel, you can see I fuse the "power" to be safe and zipped the connector box to the existing metal bracket. Fit very well in there, almost as if it was made for it. You can also see the ground lug in the front as well.

Just another shot of it all cleaned up and ready to put everything back together in reverse order.
cont.
I was able to finally get some time today to install my V1 from my old car to the Max!
LET THE INSTALL BEGIN................
My V1 was connected into the overhead light/moonroof panel of my old car, so I thought I would start there............
Panel pops out from the front (closest to the windshield) and slides forward to undo the rear hooks.........
Here you can see the 2 clips on top.......Ok, so I'm thinkin' - "3 connectors, one has to have 12v switched power". The top white connector is for the moonroof, the middle white connector is for the bluetooth mic and the gray connector for both courtesy lights and orange "night" light. I tried tapping into the top connector w/ my DMM - yup, sure enough found 12v and switched! Cool.....................................
Well not really, since this switch controls multi functions everytime I tapped into the wires, one "function" of the moonroof wouldn't work. No matter which "power" wire I tried........so no glory here..............movin' on......
This was the connector I was messin' with - black is ground and each other wire was 12v+.......back to the drawin' board.
Next up was to get behind the dash near the fuse box. Well lookin' at everything, I needed to start w/ this sill plate (front of it was holdin' the knee bolster to the dash) - it needed to go!
Here it is removed...........
Had to be careful - there were 2 clips at the front holdin' it in place as well as............
The rear of the sill plate had 3 clips holdin' it on place connecting to the next piece of trim.
Next to go was this cover peice - only visible when you open the door. Very easy to remove with a plastic panel pry bar. There are 2 clips (top and bottom) as well as 2 slots the slide forward into the dash. Took a little while to get it to "give" and pop off.
Here you can see it removed. It was necessary as the bottom clip "Hooks" into the knee bolster.
Pop the fuse access panel and you will see this screw. It is the only piece of hardware that holds the knee bolster to the dash. Once removed, just gently pull from the bottom of the knee bolster outwards and the clips will start "popping" out.
Once the knee bolster is removed, you have east access to everything. Here you can see the wire (red with silver stripe) I "tapped" into - it is switched. Should be the same on all 7th gen Max
Now I had to get behind the A pillar - not very easy since there is an Air Bag there. Needed to be very careful. Panel popped but was limited in movement by the blue clip seen above. This is so the panel doesn't go flying when the Air bag is deployed during a crash. Just take a needle nose pliers and twist it to get the panel to come loose.
Here you can see I started running the wire up the A pillar.
Wire run and attached with zip ties for a clean install. I did "clip" the ends to make them flush. After this, I neatly tucked the wire into the headliner running it all the way over to the rear view mirror.
Back to the fuse panel, you can see I fuse the "power" to be safe and zipped the connector box to the existing metal bracket. Fit very well in there, almost as if it was made for it. You can also see the ground lug in the front as well.
Just another shot of it all cleaned up and ready to put everything back together in reverse order.
cont.
And finally, the placement of my V1 - has direct line of sight facing forward amd through the rear windshield. It does work and powers on as soon as you hit the "Start" button, just didn't take a pic of it.
Anyway - just thought I would share...............
Comments and questions welcomed.
Thanks,
Toys
Comment
And finally, the placement of my V1 - has direct line of sight facing forward amd through the rear windshield. It does work and powers on as soon as you hit the "Start" button, just didn't take a pic of it.
Anyway - just thought I would share...............
Comments and questions welcomed.
Thanks,
Toys
i would have just use this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Direct-Wir...142050&veh=cse
this is a baller V1 install
http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.ph...ht=diy+install
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Direct-Wir...142050&veh=cse
this is a baller V1 install
http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.ph...ht=diy+install
Last edited by MaximaSE96; May 9, 2012 at 12:55 PM.
i would have just use this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Direct-Wir...142050&veh=cse
this is a baller V1 install
http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.ph...ht=diy+install
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Direct-Wir...142050&veh=cse
this is a baller V1 install
http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.ph...ht=diy+install
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