Review of BC Coilovers and staggered 20's on a '12
Okay im seeing all this spring rates conversation what is a good spring rate for our car?
im in between KSport and BC
the KSPort offers a
Spring rates front (kg/lbs): 8.7/487
Spring rates rear (kg/lbs): 7.2/403
and i am unsure about BC
are these good spring rates for the Max?
im in between KSport and BC
the KSPort offers a
Spring rates front (kg/lbs): 8.7/487
Spring rates rear (kg/lbs): 7.2/403
and i am unsure about BC
are these good spring rates for the Max?
Okay im seeing all this spring rates conversation what is a good spring rate for our car?
im in between KSport and BC
the KSPort offers a
Spring rates front (kg/lbs): 8.7/487
Spring rates rear (kg/lbs): 7.2/403
and i am unsure about BC
are these good spring rates for the Max?
im in between KSport and BC
the KSPort offers a
Spring rates front (kg/lbs): 8.7/487
Spring rates rear (kg/lbs): 7.2/403
and i am unsure about BC
are these good spring rates for the Max?
I would get BC's rather than Ksport. Better ride imo.
BC standard rate for our cars is 7kg front and rear. They do offer custom rates at your request. But as you read in previous posts, some members had/have 7kg and having issues. ritan ran into that problem but now he has 10kg front/rear and the ride is great!!
My boy Dean has KSports and i do like his set up it is meant more for comfort than handleing he was just not sure what his spring rate is he has not had any blows or anything so im just trying to figure out if these were a good rate for the car
yes 9k at front is a must.
the ride will still be comfortable with 7k, and probably more comfortable than 9k but you have to be really careful and slow going over speed bumps. If your not careful you will bottom out very easily.
I have never bottomed out while on street or freeway, only by going over speed bumps too fast.
the a35 6 banger needs a 9k at front. No way around it, the sets that sell with 7k are made for 4banger altimas.
the ride will still be comfortable with 7k, and probably more comfortable than 9k but you have to be really careful and slow going over speed bumps. If your not careful you will bottom out very easily.
I have never bottomed out while on street or freeway, only by going over speed bumps too fast.
the a35 6 banger needs a 9k at front. No way around it, the sets that sell with 7k are made for 4banger altimas.
I would get BC's rather than Ksport. Better ride imo.
BC standard rate for our cars is 7kg front and rear. They do offer custom rates at your request. But as you read in previous posts, some members had/have 7kg and having issues. ritan ran into that problem but now he has 10kg front/rear and the ride is great!!
BC standard rate for our cars is 7kg front and rear. They do offer custom rates at your request. But as you read in previous posts, some members had/have 7kg and having issues. ritan ran into that problem but now he has 10kg front/rear and the ride is great!!
BC is swapping out the 7ks for 9k. Hassle free. Great customer service. I'm hoping that the issue is only the springs and not the cartridges. We will see in a few days.
Thanks guys but that's actually stock on the '12s.
Thanks guys but that's actually stock on the '12s.
Good To hear did they also reimburse you for the struts?
Got the 9k springs put on the front today. MUCH better! Strut cartridges are good also so I lucked out there. For anybody looking to run this setup, definitely save time and effort and get the 9k's from the start.
white max did your struts make a clunking noise ? My front struts are now making clunking noise. I'm trying to figure out if it's my cv boot axle or strut related noise.
When I adjust the dampening to a more stiffer setting everything feels smooth and tight up front. But after a week or so I start to feel a tapping in the gas and brake pedals going over bumps and the ride gets harsher. I hear minor noises up front associated with these issues. I'm starting to think I need new strut cartridges after all from my first problem.
If the noise is associated with a more uncomfortable ride, my guess is that it's your struts.
I just double checked mine and fortunately it was the loose end links that was causing the noise. I just tightened the top bolt of the vertical looking piece and it removed the noise.
If your hearing and feeling a tap in the pedals, it could be your loose end links since the end links connect to some bars that go under the car and across the pedal area. you may want to check that out. You need two wrenches to tighten the end link.
If your hearing and feeling a tap in the pedals, it could be your loose end links since the end links connect to some bars that go under the car and across the pedal area. you may want to check that out. You need two wrenches to tighten the end link.
When do you hear the noise? Going over bumps, turning, etc..
When I adjust the dampening to a more stiffer setting everything feels smooth and tight up front. But after a week or so I start to feel a tapping in the gas and brake pedals going over bumps and the ride gets harsher. I hear minor noises up front associated with these issues. I'm starting to think I need new strut cartridges after all from my first problem.
If the noise is associated with a more uncomfortable ride, my guess is that it's your struts.
When I adjust the dampening to a more stiffer setting everything feels smooth and tight up front. But after a week or so I start to feel a tapping in the gas and brake pedals going over bumps and the ride gets harsher. I hear minor noises up front associated with these issues. I'm starting to think I need new strut cartridges after all from my first problem.
If the noise is associated with a more uncomfortable ride, my guess is that it's your struts.
Last edited by BBmaxi; Sep 7, 2012 at 10:26 AM.
I just double checked mine and fortunately it was the loose end links that was causing the noise. I just tightened the top bolt of the vertical looking piece and it removed the noise.
If your hearing and feeling a tap in the pedals, it could be your loose end links since the end links connect to some bars that go under the car and across the pedal area. you may want to check that out. You need two wrenches to tighten the end link.
If your hearing and feeling a tap in the pedals, it could be your loose end links since the end links connect to some bars that go under the car and across the pedal area. you may want to check that out. You need two wrenches to tighten the end link.
yes check your endlinks, It could be a loose bottom bar (maybe called sway bars?) that's attached to both sides of the endlinks, and the reason why the sound is coming from the bottom of car and why you can feel it on the pedals.
for me it was the top nut of the endlink. The bottom nut was tight with no problems. The top connector of the end link consists of two nuts. The two nuts sandwich the coilover tab. If you tighten just the outer nut it will keep spinning, so you need to hold the inner nut in place so they tighten up.
they look like this:

for me it was the top nut of the endlink. The bottom nut was tight with no problems. The top connector of the end link consists of two nuts. The two nuts sandwich the coilover tab. If you tighten just the outer nut it will keep spinning, so you need to hold the inner nut in place so they tighten up.
they look like this:

BBmaxi I'm hearing a knocking noise and I'm lower on Eibachs. You think it could be my end links too? Also when I go up my driveway and go over small bumps on the road, I can feel my gas pedal having a light tap to it also and it's annoying. Been doing that for over 2 months. 

yes check your endlinks, It could be a loose bottom bar (maybe called sway bars?) that's attached to both sides of the endlinks, and the reason why the sound is coming from the bottom of car and why you can feel it on the pedals.
for me it was the top nut of the endlink. The bottom nut was tight with no problems. The top connector of the end link consists of two nuts. The two nuts sandwich the coilover tab. If you tighten just the outer nut it will keep spinning, so you need to hold the inner nut in place so they tighten up.
they look like this:

for me it was the top nut of the endlink. The bottom nut was tight with no problems. The top connector of the end link consists of two nuts. The two nuts sandwich the coilover tab. If you tighten just the outer nut it will keep spinning, so you need to hold the inner nut in place so they tighten up.
they look like this:

I can finally drive in peace and no more cranking up the radio to ignore the noise....
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