I decided my 2012 Max with the factory Bose system needed more base "punch". After checking forums, audio sites, and lots of reviews, I decided to add a JL Audio PowerWedge Max 10" powered subwoofer, part #PWM110-JXWXv2. I also bought the optional speaker screen, part #SGR-10 to protect the speaker while in the trunk and the remote bass control, part #RBC-1. It all came from Crutchfield for about $380 shipped. I already had a 8-gauge amp wiring kit. I used the built-in speaker level inputs (no line-level converter needed) as the head unit has no RCA-outs. I first tapped into the left and right rear door speakers but the output was very low. I confirmed that it worked right by unhooking the speaker level input and using the RCA low level inputs by running the RCA's to the back of my sons Kenwood unit in his car and wow, what a difference! I called JL Audio tech support and they said to tap into the rear subs (located in the rear deck behind the rear seat. These speakers only output low level sounds). Once I tapped into these it now worked right. It adds noticeable bass! For the settings, I lowered the head unit bass to +1 above the center setting. I set the low pass filter to about 90hz (may already be limited as I'm using the factory sub channels) and the input sensitivity to about 11o'clock (7o'clock= min and 5o'clock=max). The remote bass control I mounted to the left of the left seat heater button by using double faced tape. I recommend getting this as it controls the sub output from off to max. I will still play around with the setting a little as I get more time to listen to it.

 

I totally agree that the bottom end needs some help.

After adding my Boston G5 sub along with a Boston GTR passive radiator, the system sounds a lot better. A nice thing as in your application, is that it doesn't take much room.

 

Pics plz

 

Snap a few pics.

 

In for some pics. This would be a great solution for me.

 

similar to my setup, I used an alpine M500 amp that has speaker level inputs and tapped into the stock "sub" outputs in the trunk ceiling. definitely rounds out the Bose system getting some low end in there

 

Picture of the setup in my car. Amp is a Boston GTA-800M rated at 800 watts RMS. The sub box is only 0.5 cubic feet.

 

***Update.....I sent back the JL Audio 10" sub box and replaced it with the Kicker PECVR12 Substation. The JL Audio box was not enough once I set the speaker input level. It was marginally better than stock. The Kicker has a 12" Comp VR sub with a 400 watt RMS (800 peak) amp. Much better! The only drawback is that it doesn't fit all the way up to the rear seat back in the trunk. Another trick I did was because my Max has the sport package I could not put down the rear seat but I do leave the rear center armrest down and leave the little trunk access door open. I will try to upload a couple pics. The kicker was $400 but included the remote bass level controller.

 

Was the $400 for the sub station or the Cvr?

 

He did.

 

No. $400 for the complete set-up. It comes powered. Just plug-n-play

 

Where's the photos?

 

FYI.....good info to know if u didn't already: in dealing with previous systems in past cars, I've learned to bolt my systems down to the trunk. Had 2 Kicker L7 and Kicker 1500 mono amp stollen from a charger I had 4 years ago. Learned that Maxima's have 4 unused bolt inlets in base of the trunk when you pull up the carpet near the seats. Bolted a thick piece of plywood down the base of the trunk and bolted my subwoofer box down to the plywood. May not be the most sophisticated deterrence technique but helps me sleep at night. Got a alpine 500 mono and 1 alpine 10 type r. not the chest banging system Im used to...but im a little older n dont need to pound the block down nemore.