'09 Max.... I beleive the clutch on my compressor went out. The pully wheel spins freely regardless of if the ac is on or not and it is making a bunch of noise and needless to say the ac doesn't work. When I removed the pully and then the magnet, the magnet had some melted areas on it where some, what looks to be, resistors are located. I put an ohm meter on the leads and the magnet is showing open. I ordered another whole compressor that I plan on just using the clutch from. It won't be here till Friday. I went ahead and put a volt meter on the leads that connect to the clutch magnet to see if I were getting anything when I hit the AC switch/button and I get nothing at all. The AC fuse by the battery is good with voltage flowing through it but nothing on the leads that connect to the clutch to engage it. Any recommendations?

 

You could jumper the clutch with a 12v source to see if the clutch engages.

Thanks,

S

 

The FSM should be useful in your troubleshooting.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html

 

Thank you for the link! From what I'm gathering, the engine probably has to be running for it to send voltage to the clutch.

 

Nope nope nope.....use the auto active test.

Simple. Turn ignition ON (do not start engine) with door open, press the door jam switch 10 times, turn ignition OFF and then turn ignition ON (again do not start engine).

Horn will chirp once

It goes through a cycle 3 times....headlights on 5 sec then parks on 5 sec then windshield wipers go low then high for 5 sec THEN THE A/C CLUTCH energizes and de-energizes every second for 5 seconds .... then radiator fans kick on low then high for 5 seconds and cycle repeats twice more.

Try that....

 

I Just replaced my clutch on my 2009 max today as my a/c had gone out. I had the same burned out resistors just like you. I was able to find just the clutch on ebay for $58 whereas the auto parts stores say the clutch is not sold separately and that I had to buy the whole compressor. My A/c works again!

 

I have a feeling that's a troll move there lol

 

Umm.....no friend it isnt. It is the auto-active test. It is designed to test the IPDM E/R. That's the independent power distribution module engine room test.

Try it on your own car before you accuse me of being a troll.....troll!

Have a good one!

 

What's a troll move mean? Also, I've ran across all these Nintendo up down left right left right A B A B directions, are these built in for mechanics or what? Thanks and I'm very interested for responses?

 

It seems like a troll move because the instructions don't seem to make a whole lot of sense. Like CorollaULEV just made them up. They are similar to the type of instructions that were used in my 98 Maxima to perform functional tests or specifically reset of the airbag light. I'm surprised Nissan is still using them in the 7th Gen but that switch is pretty easy to access when you are troubleshooting.

I think a Nissan mechanic can use their computer system called Consult to perform all functional tests. The door switch is used to perform some functional tests if you do not have Consult. There are other procedures described in the FSM that allow you to perform functional tests if you do not have Consult.

The poster that called CorollaULEV a troll has not read the FSM or done much troubleshooting on these cars.

 

Thanks dude! The auto-active test would actually help the OP. And it's kind of cool to do...

It's one of the cool things I like about Nissans. There's lots of cool little tricks like this.

Late,
Trav

 

I did the test it only gets to wiper part and nothing else does this mean I need a compressor

 

Thank you CorollaULEV! That tip was very helpful in diagnosing the A/C clutch issue on my 2010 Infiniti M35. I was wondering how to check the voltage to the clutch without the engine running. Now I know that the clutch IS getting power, but not engaging. I assume that means I need to replace the a/c clutch, so I will be ordering one on Amazon. I'm also going to have the belt changed since it's starting to crack and has to be loosened to remove the clutch anyway.

 

same issue here yesterday. today i confirmed fuse is good, compressor getting power etc. it happened when i gunned it, but before ac was 110 percent. two questions

how did you jump the 3 wire pressure switch
the second is if you have another source, for the coil, as thats a dead link.

I had a shop screw my 2015 caddy ac by overcharging and FRYING the compressor. they wanted like 2100 and remove the front clip, when i brought it back in LOL. all total with me installing and someone else recharging it was like 600. I wish I had a shop I could trust. They hate people who turn wrenches.

but this has to be what you are describing as it's 110% what happened to me yesterday.

 

AC was working just fine. I went through what I thought was a small puddle then AC stopped. I found a blown fuse set(there were 3 combined together, green). I changed the set of fuses, changed the compressor, pumped down the system and recharged the system and still nothing from the compressor. I found a white wire from the fuse box that sends power to the compressor, no power at the wire. I have checked and double checked the fuses, evidently I am missing something, any ideas/suggestions is welcomed!

 

during the active test I hear and feel the clutch engage…. And fans work fine

but with the car running and AC on the clutch does not engage

i have a set of gauges on it and it shows 100+ psi on both high and low pressure side. I assume that when the compressor engages the high low pressure will change to be different

what psi must be present for the pressure switch to trigger ?

can I bypass the pressure switch to allow the compressor to run for a short time

i checked the 10amp fuse and that was fine (and the Active test proves that fuse and wiring is good)

is there anything else that will stop the compressor from running?

thanks