2014Maxima

I have a feeling that my brakes are needing replaced soon, and it seems like I have some warped rotors. I can notice some trembling at higher speeds, so I figured I would upgrade. I am looking at the Powerslot Frozen rotors since I had them on another vehicle and really liked them. What is the best pads out there for the Maximas that most people like to use?

I'd really like to do a front brake upgrade to the 370 BBK, but does it make sense if I plan to leave the stock rears?

Maximam

Factory rotors and Akebono pads. Done.

2014Maxima

My factors rotors feel warped after 30k miles, looking for something better.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Vibration at higher speeds is wheel balance, unless you mean when braking from higher speeds.

Your brake bias will be changed if you do the 370Z brakes in the front, but there is no problem with it.

2014Maxima

Yeah it's only vibrating some at higher speed braking.

Do you have the front and rear 370z Akebonos? Did you notice a significant improvement in braking over the stock Maxima setup.

My thoughts are the Powerslots, Akebono pads, and stainless lines for regular street use, but the 370z bbk does look nice.

Maximam

Worth a read:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I have the full set, from Z1.
There is a noticeable improvement in bite, stopping distance, and feel.
Totally worth it in my opinion.

I Prefer flat faced rotors, not drilled or slotted for most street use. Avoids a lot of potential problems and they last longer.

Liquid_pjear

iTrader: (2)

I commute 600+ miles a week and was tired of OEM blanks warping after a few 75mph stops on the interstate (a problem i have had on all of my maximas). I went with EBC 3GD rotors and redstuff pads. It is a combination I have used several times. The rotors hold up very well for dimpled/slotted rotors and the pads wear well with low dust. It is a good middle ground IMO. They aren't loud, they last a hell of a lot longer than blanks, they give great linear braking even if a dozen morons pull out in front of you on the highway forcing high-speed stops, and they won't cost an arm and a leg.

2014Maxima

I'm glad it's not just me who has experienced this. I'm not aggressive with the brakes at all, but I had to do a few sudden stops at interstate speeds. So I am assuming that contributed to it.

I have another car with the PowerSlot frozen rotors, and I am very pleased with them. So more than likely I will be getting them. As far as pads, which Akebono pads are you all using? I noticed on Tire Rack that sells Brembo pads also. Does anyone know if these compare to the Akebonos?

Bificus99

Mine were warped too at 60K miles had them resurfaced.

RCM78

Same here. I went with the Centric High Carbon Cryo treated rotors and Hawk HPS pads. 30,000 miles on then with very good results...

2014Maxima

So is everyone here mostly going with blanks? I have Powerslots on another car of mine, and they have been great. So that what had me leaning towards another set for the Maxima.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Blank rotors have more mass and can hold more heat.
Slotted can't be resurfaced.
Most prefer blank, as slotted purely for looks on a street car.

Liquid_pjear

iTrader: (2)

Just get high carbon rotors and you can't go wrong. I went with dimpled and slotted just cause I got a deal on them. I've used EBC high carbon blanks and Power slot high carbon blanks. Both have worked fine. Honestly blanks will stop you faster, its simple physics. Unless you have a real lead foot or like to shoot down mountain roads you will likely not get any benefit from slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors and will in fact increase your braking distance (assuming brakes are the limiting factor).

Maximam

2014Maxima

Thanks all, I will be going with the Akebonos and Centric Cryo blanks.

Does anyone know where I can find a a link to the service manual, or a how-to write up for changing the front and rear brakes? Is there any kind of special tool that is required in order to do the job. I'm new to working on Nissans, previously my experience is working on GM vehicles.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Nothing special as far as brakes go. A little tight in the rears on space, but the standard tools work.

2014Maxima

How is the dust with the Akebono Proact pads vs the stock pads?

The Akebono Street Performance is another that I am leaning towards. Anyone try those?

Maximam

Same as factory.

Liquid_pjear

iTrader: (2)

It is fairly simple:

Apply anti-squeal to the back of your new pads so it has time to set before you install them
Loosen the lugs on the front drivers side wheel
Lift the front drivers side with the jack point right behind the wheel
Take the wheel off
Turn the steering wheel all the way left for better access to the bolts
Unscrew the cap on the brake fluid resouvoir (makes it easier to compress the caliper pistons
Take the two bolts off the caliper (14mm I believe)
Remove the outside pad
Use a caliper tool or large C clamp and the inside pad to compress the piston
Hang the piston from the spring or frame with an S hook, or set it on a bucket or the suspension arm (just make sure not to let it hang from the brake line)
Take the two bolts off the caliper braket (19mm of memory serves)
Remove and clean the braket with brake cleaner the replace hardware if needed
Remove the rotor (they can be frozen on, use a 4lb hammer to tap it loose take care to not hit and bend the shield behind the rotor)
Install the new rotors
Mount the brake pads in the caliper bracket (take care to not get the anti-squeal on the braking surfaces)
Slide the loaded bracket over the rotor and reinstall the bolts
It is a good idea to remove the pins the rotor mounts onto and grease them
Also a little grease on the boot around the brake piston can't hurt
Slide the caliper over the pads and reinstall the two bolts (make sure it slides freely on the pins)
Turn the steering wheel back to center and mount the wheel
Lower the car and tighten the lugs in a star pattern
Repeat with passenger side

The rear brakes are the same process except you cant turn the wheel to get access to the bolt on the caliper and bracket. There is also a control arm that makes it nearly impossible to get a ratchet on the bottom bolts. The best method is to get a box end wrench on the bolts and tap the end of wrench with a hammer to break the bolts free (essentially how an impact wrench works).

When done with all 4 wheels tighten the cap on the brake fluid resouvoir. Pump the brake pedal until firm before driving.

Make sure you check/retighten your lug nuts after your first drive.

If you have any questions let me know. I'd take pics but my camera and tools are already packed for an impending move.

seesole

Powerstop makes a great kit for our cars that I have and installed myself. the are the POWER STOP K6075 Z23 Evolution Sport, for 315 plus shipping from Rockauto, it's a great deal and better than stock! They are slotted and drilled rotors and performance ceramic pads, This is for BOTH front and rear!

2014Maxima

That's a good deal, but I'm not big on drilled rotors for street use.

Maximam

Agree! Drilled rotors hum during braking. You can definitely tell they are not as smooth as solid.

dmcmahan12

Unless you are auto crossing your car then a quality set of pad and rotors will be just fine for your car. I just installed a pad and rotor kit from Rock Auto for $120 shipped to my door. I have a 2012 with 64,000 miles on the original front pads and rotors. I replaced them because the front rotors were warped but the front pads still had a little less than half the pad left.

Zygi

Yep, I did exactly that Btw. the oem rotors are crazy expensive