Axle Boot Leak & Axle/CVT Leak
06-27-2016, 07:37 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 452
Axle Boot Leak & Axle/CVT Leak
Looking for some advice. I know there are tons of threads and posts about this on the web, but just wanted to get some opinions here. I have a 2009 with 143k miles.
Theres are really 3 parts to this thread...
First Part: Passenger Side Boots
I checked any my passenger side inner CV boot at the inner joint is starting to leak and there is a decent amount of grease slung around the area. There does not appear to be any tears or anything in either boot.
Should I...
a) replace the clamps
b) replace the boots and clamps
c) wait till failure and replace whole axle
Second Part: Drivers side Axle/CVT seal
On the driver's side I noticed that the seal between the CVT and the CV joint appears to be leaking some fluid. Not enough to pool, but there is noticeable collection of thick grim in a 6" circle around that join.
a) pop out axle and replace seal and replace
b) replace whole axle while it's out
c) wait...
Third Part: Do anything else?
If I do end up popping out the axle, should I be looking to replace anything else at 143k? Thinking bearings, ball joint/control arm? If everything is apart on passenger side, should i go ahead and preventatively replace idler pulleys?
Thanks for any thoughts?
Theres are really 3 parts to this thread...
First Part: Passenger Side Boots
I checked any my passenger side inner CV boot at the inner joint is starting to leak and there is a decent amount of grease slung around the area. There does not appear to be any tears or anything in either boot.
Should I...
a) replace the clamps
b) replace the boots and clamps
c) wait till failure and replace whole axle
Second Part: Drivers side Axle/CVT seal
On the driver's side I noticed that the seal between the CVT and the CV joint appears to be leaking some fluid. Not enough to pool, but there is noticeable collection of thick grim in a 6" circle around that join.
a) pop out axle and replace seal and replace
b) replace whole axle while it's out
c) wait...
Third Part: Do anything else?
If I do end up popping out the axle, should I be looking to replace anything else at 143k? Thinking bearings, ball joint/control arm? If everything is apart on passenger side, should i go ahead and preventatively replace idler pulleys?
Thanks for any thoughts?
Last edited by NCSUpilot; 06-27-2016 at 07:41 PM.
06-28-2016, 01:49 AM
#2
If it's early you may get away with repacking the boot and sealing it back in.. This is if there isn't any excess dust and or large crap lodged in there. I assume you never seeing an Axel completely fail?? not good!
2nd, if you are having a leak between the CVT and CV that means you are losing fluid so that should be checked. I say remove the axel and replace the seal. If the same axel is in question this is a good time to replace the boot or the whole axel since it is off anyway.
This a good time to get a grease gun and start to do some (PM) preventive maintenance on your steering system. Shoot some great into the nipples and cross that off your list.
Check the bearings - with the front wheels off the ground, grab the tire and if the wheel have a lot of play in it then it's time to replace the bearings.
Visually check the control arm, they are typically not that expensive to buy, but keep in mind if your going to do any control arms DO THEM ALL,Driver and passenger Inner and outer.. because you will have to have an alignment done afterwards if you only did one or all. So if you only did one and the other goes in a month or so, you have to replace it and have another alignment done.
2nd, if you are having a leak between the CVT and CV that means you are losing fluid so that should be checked. I say remove the axel and replace the seal. If the same axel is in question this is a good time to replace the boot or the whole axel since it is off anyway.
This a good time to get a grease gun and start to do some (PM) preventive maintenance on your steering system. Shoot some great into the nipples and cross that off your list.
Check the bearings - with the front wheels off the ground, grab the tire and if the wheel have a lot of play in it then it's time to replace the bearings.
Visually check the control arm, they are typically not that expensive to buy, but keep in mind if your going to do any control arms DO THEM ALL,Driver and passenger Inner and outer.. because you will have to have an alignment done afterwards if you only did one or all. So if you only did one and the other goes in a month or so, you have to replace it and have another alignment done.
06-28-2016, 07:58 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 452
Cool, thanks for the advice!
It's been a while since I've had to work on the axels and bearings. I had a 95' that i replaced multiple bearings/axles/controls arms...etc etc. So I was just curious on what to look at from a holistic approach on my 09 this time around.
It's been a while since I've had to work on the axels and bearings. I had a 95' that i replaced multiple bearings/axles/controls arms...etc etc. So I was just curious on what to look at from a holistic approach on my 09 this time around.
06-28-2016, 10:40 AM
#4
Unless it's air suspension nothing really changes.. and of course very expensive sport cars with specific parts an what not... good luck.
07-27-2016, 08:01 PM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 5
I've been driving on cracked/torn boots (front) for nearly 8,000 miles, including a couple of long trips. The front axles do need to replaced. If I bring it into a shop, how much should I expect to pay? What would be a reasonable amount? Thanks.
07-27-2016, 09:03 PM
#6
The axles itself is $500 or so from Nissan last I checked. They will probably charge you a minimum of 2 hours labor so you're looking at $700-$800 per side. I think I was quoted $675 at my dealership
07-28-2016, 07:34 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
NCSU
rebuild the passenger side axle. Buy a nissan boot kit. It may make sense replace both inner and outer boot, but judge by condition of the outer boot. I see the leaking boots without cracks on Honda's alot. The clamps loosen up and start leaking grease.
Do not under any circumstances buy aftermarket axles!
Replacing just the clamps is half-assing it. You lost some amount of grease already, and the rubber ages and cracks with time. Do it right with a new boot/grease/clamps.
I would replace the driver side axle/tranny seal as well. They could be a PITA to pop out, but once it starts leaking, there is no sense to wait for it to fail.
You may want to rebuild the driver side axle as well, while you have it out.
Rebuilding axles is not complicated, but sure is a dirty job. Hardest part is typically popping the outer CV joint from the shaft, due to Circlip. I use sliding hammer for this with great effectiveness.
Good luck
Max
rebuild the passenger side axle. Buy a nissan boot kit. It may make sense replace both inner and outer boot, but judge by condition of the outer boot. I see the leaking boots without cracks on Honda's alot. The clamps loosen up and start leaking grease.
Do not under any circumstances buy aftermarket axles!
Replacing just the clamps is half-assing it. You lost some amount of grease already, and the rubber ages and cracks with time. Do it right with a new boot/grease/clamps.
I would replace the driver side axle/tranny seal as well. They could be a PITA to pop out, but once it starts leaking, there is no sense to wait for it to fail.
You may want to rebuild the driver side axle as well, while you have it out.
Rebuilding axles is not complicated, but sure is a dirty job. Hardest part is typically popping the outer CV joint from the shaft, due to Circlip. I use sliding hammer for this with great effectiveness.
Good luck
Max
10-04-2016, 12:54 PM
#8
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 5
I thought I would hijack this thread to keep it all together. I installed a new drivers axle but have found it loose as it enters the transmission. It is fully clipped in... but I have never had it where it is not tight....
I am a bit worried of course because it goes straight into the tranny... Has anyone had this? It was supposed to be a A1 Cardone reman... but I don't think they have any stock and it was a new one. It does not have the two "bumps" in the center of the axle like the stock one does.
I am a bit worried of course because it goes straight into the tranny... Has anyone had this? It was supposed to be a A1 Cardone reman... but I don't think they have any stock and it was a new one. It does not have the two "bumps" in the center of the axle like the stock one does.
10-04-2016, 01:08 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Ever since I had an after-market axle on a volvo spun support bearing and pop out of the tranny, I have avoided the after market axles like a plague.
There is a shop called Raxles that sells refurbished axles, which has great reputation.
Beyond that, its a fine line between expected play and excessive play. If the car drives funny, vibration on acceleration and such, the axle is bad.
There is a shop called Raxles that sells refurbished axles, which has great reputation.
Beyond that, its a fine line between expected play and excessive play. If the car drives funny, vibration on acceleration and such, the axle is bad.
10-05-2016, 10:35 AM
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 5
Got to love aftermarket.... it is the wrong axle. I was wondering about the physical differences and called in... of course they swore it was the right axle. I called the dealer and there are two axles, limited slip and regular. I called them back and at least they will take the axle back, but Cardone did not list that there are two axles.
Got to love it!! I have had to order a used one as no one seems to refurbish these axles.
Got to love it!! I have had to order a used one as no one seems to refurbish these axles.
10-05-2016, 10:40 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Got to love aftermarket.... it is the wrong axle. I was wondering about the physical differences and called in... of course they swore it was the right axle. I called the dealer and there are two axles, limited slip and regular. I called them back and at least they will take the axle back, but Cardone did not list that there are two axles.
Got to love it!! I have had to order a used one as no one seems to refurbish these axles.
Got to love it!! I have had to order a used one as no one seems to refurbish these axles.
Can you post pics of the axles?
Where are you located?
You can look up youtube on how to rebuild the axle.
As I said, contact http://www.raxles.com/ they have good reputation.
10-05-2016, 11:40 AM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 5
Interesting!
I looked up the two codes - 391019n01a which is the new code... which I guess replaced 391019n00b which is the old one.
So I am at a loss at what is going on... but the one that I got is physically different.
Raxles does not do Nissan apparently...
I looked up the two codes - 391019n01a which is the new code... which I guess replaced 391019n00b which is the old one.
So I am at a loss at what is going on... but the one that I got is physically different.
Raxles does not do Nissan apparently...
10-05-2016, 11:48 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Parts get superseded all the time, and typically new number is assigned to the replacement part. Can you post a picture of differences?
I think you are talking about a rubber donut that is sometimes attached to the middle of the axle shaft. Its purpose is not super clear to me, I have heard it is used for balancing.
Anyway, the short of it, if you have issues with new axle then you can return it. You can never go wrong with OEM part and sometimes thats what it takes to fix the car.
good luck.
I think you are talking about a rubber donut that is sometimes attached to the middle of the axle shaft. Its purpose is not super clear to me, I have heard it is used for balancing.
Anyway, the short of it, if you have issues with new axle then you can return it. You can never go wrong with OEM part and sometimes thats what it takes to fix the car.
good luck.
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