Chris Brouillette

Hello everyone,
I'm at a loss here.
I recently purchased a 2012 Max with 46k miles. From the beginning I noticed what seemed like off balance tires. Fast forward a few weeks and my power steering pump fried totaling the rack since I drove it a few hundred miles with metal shavings in the fluid. Had the dealer replace both with Nissan parts.

A few days later I noticed a faint clunk when going over bumps and turning over uneven road. Brought it back, everything checked ok. A few weeks later the noise started to become louder so I stopped at another dealership who confirmed the noise. Was told sway bar links and bushings, replaced with no effect. Went back to same dealer, was told struts. Again, replaced with no effect.

At this point, I brought the car back to original dealer. They had it overnight and said my break pads we're moving. I called BS on this since the noise was the same with brakes applied or not. I went nuts one weekend and changed outer tie-rod ends, control arms, left upper motor mount, dog bone mount, rear firewall mount, transmission mount. At this point the entire front end is new. Still have the clunk....

The subframe bushings looked ok. But there seems to be some movement of the subframe/engine when turning the wheel back and forth abruptly, which the dealership said is normal... I call BS again. There's also somewhat of a dead spot in steering but not more than the service manual allows. This brings me back to the of balance feeling in the tires. I purchased new rims and rubber and still have the vibration. Does this all lead to subframe bushings?? The car was primarily driven in NYC up to this point so the suspension was probably close to shot anyways.
One last thing, I was told by the dealer the subframe bushings could not be replaced and I would need the entire assembly. 10 minutes on Google and I found genuine Nissan subframe bushings for around 30$ each on a Nissan parts website... At this point I'm done guessing, plus I've already went through the gauntlet changing the firewall mount and sway bar bushings. I'd rather not drop the subframe again for no reason.

Please help. I fear my only option is to burn the car lol

maxipower

was this car in an accident from the previous owner

Chris Brouillette

No accidents. Car is in great shape and meticulously maintained from previous owner and me.

LtLeary

I am thinking the half-shafts You've checked everything else.

Chris Brouillette

I've thought about half shafts. They don't click at all when turning in circles, so they "seem" ok. Maybe in should pull them and check for play.

LtLeary

Someone mentioned a loose battery in a different thread. Worth l look.

Chris Brouillette

I checked it. It was loose, tightened and noise so till there. Yesterday I noticed the car pulls a bit to the left when breaking.

LtLeary

Now you are back to the brakes again. Maybe loose pads/caliber after all? Wheel loose or maybe even the bearing? Man this is a tricky one.

MaximusN8

Have you checked the inner tie rod for any play?

Chris Brouillette

Inners are ok. Came new with OEM rack replacement. Checked brakes all are tight, new pads have no play.

Had a 2 hr highway ride yesterday and noticed a slight drift right when accelerating and slight drift left when letting off. Same as when braking. Alignment has been done 3 times this year. Once with new tires, again to correct crappy job and then two weeks ago at dealer after replacing tons of suspension/steering components. Will track straight unless it's gusty out or road uneven. It feels like the suspension is sloppy in a way.

MaximusN8

This is a strange one, Something is off somewhere it seems like you've checked every suspension component and still no problem found. Good luck on figuring this out I'm going to talk to a mechanic I know that has worked on these cars on a regular basis and see what he suggests.

Chris Brouillette

I appreciate the help. The noise has been confirmed by a few techs and we just pinpoint the issue.

BronxSleeperMax187

So what was it ...

Chris Brouillette

I apologise. I meant to say we try to pinpoint the issue. Noise is still there.

LWilspeed

If you drive in a circle (think open parking lot), does the noise happen when the momentum changes? Like if you are coasting and then transition to medium throttle application and then from medium throttle immediately let off the pedal so you go back to coasting? Sorry for the stab in the dark but I've noticed this on mine. Haven't pinpointed it but pretty sure it is in the steering column. Have seen similar issues on GM products and Hyundai that was between the rack and the steering wheel.

Chris Brouillette

No noise when driving in a circle. I've tried many circle combinations thinking half-shafts. It's really on small bumps, at any speed but mostly slower speeds or highway on/off ramps. Going to try again this weekend to replicate the noise and check the subframe for play or contact. I may try removing the intermediate shaft and grease u-joints and slip joint. But I'm still stumped. I would ignore it but the car seems sloppy like there's play in suspension. I'm leaning towards subframe bushings but will not replace unless I can confirm.

LWilspeed

Bummer, I hope you find it, would be interested to know what it was!

JVine

I had a similar noise on my 2011 and it turned out to be a failed bearing on the driver side upper strut mount. Was pretty easy to fix. Just need a spring compressor and a little bit of time.

Chris Brouillette

Alright so today I spent a few hours inspecting everything in and around the front of the car. Found a few push pins that we're missing, had a bunch extra so replaced those. Nothing that would make a clunk. Front bumper cover rattled slightly near headlights, adjusted that. Hood latch missing ok need bolt, replaced. Right radiator stay clip and bushing missing, ordered during last time I inspected, replaced today. So noise is still here. I've replaced all motor mounts and suspension/steering components to this point.

Today I had someone rock the car from side to side HARD and noticed 1/8 to 3/16 gap opening and closing between the subframe and body at the driver side rear engine cradle bushing. Passenger side did even move and 1/8 inch. Someone mentioned in a post that engine cradle/subframe is meant to have play. Any idea how much?

Without being able to replicate the sound manually this is just a shot in the dark. I also checked the intermediate shaft. It's not loose but looks like it could be greased up. Showed signs of rust everywhere. I might just do the cradle bushings. Their cheap and I've dropped the SF before, it's just a decent amount of work to do without a lift.

capri66

HI, I've read through whats been happening with you and your car. it sounds similar to an issue I had in the past. The problem was a bushing or a mount on the right upper side of the engine compartment. Apparently when they changed/fixed the steering pump, they did not tighten down the mount that they had to loosen when doing the job. There would be a clunk sound when accelerating from a stop or going over a bump. Hope this helps.

VeeQue35DE

Does the noise only happen when getting up to speed after parking the car?

Chris Brouillette

No. It happens while driving at all speeds. But it's not a rotational noise. It's really bump or uneven road dependent. I will say that occasionally after the car has sat and I start driving, (forward only), I get the same kind of clunk, almost like something shifts under the car. At this point I'm just driving it ignore the clunks and it is getting slightly worst. I'm not kidding when I said I've replaced EVERYTHING in the front suspension/steering plus the motor mounts. So I'm just waiting for a free weekend to pick up an engine hoist and 4 subframe bushings and that's the next step. What else could it be? I have close to 8 hrs diagnostic at dealerships and they're clueless.

VeeQue35DE

Have you checked if anything in your trunk is loose since you seem to have covered the most common places in the front end? Are your strut tower sway reinforcements properly bolted and torqued down? May be the body flexing from not enough body rigidity. Are the rear sway bars torqued and bushings in good condition? This is a weird problem you're going through What area of the vehicle do you hear the noise coming from?

Chris Brouillette

I've changed the rear sway bar bushings and links. Everything was re-torqued in the front end by the dealer because they don't trust my work lol The noise feels and sounds like it's coming from the front end. Almost under my feet or pedals. And truly sounds like a bad sway bar link. But it made the noise before and after replacing with OEM parts.

VeeQue35DE

Only things I can think of in that area are air box,brake booster, and transmission, since you already changed mounts. Air box probably won't make that noise since it's held down by a bolt, grommets, intake runner, and throttle body. Unless something got sucked into your air box? Brake booster would be easy to check from the engine side but a little more work from the cabin side. Transmission, check if the bell housing and trans are seated together properly (trans bell housing and engine dowel pins lined up). Another stab in the dark would be the torque converter itself. Thrust bushings could be bad causing excessive play.

Dirkdiggler63

Were you able to figure out what the noise was? I am having the same issue....

Chris Brouillette

I actually haven't figured it out. The last thing I tried was subframe bushing replacement, which I think you mentioned on my other thread. It was a pretty involved job but I can't say it was the hardest thing I've ever done. I wouldn't suggest jumping on this right away since it didn't help me. The hardest part was getting the old bushings out and new ones in. The subframe is big, heavy and awkward, even with a press. And also the exhaust downpipe, studs/nuts completely rusted so be ready to replace this since it may be impossible to not cut them. At this point I'm up to 78,000 miles and have given up on it. It has never gotten worst so just turn the radio up. Lol let me know if you figure this out!

Ricjames

So, I have a 2011 maxima sv. I have the same phantom clunk. But it's in the rear. Cant find it to save my life. All bushings are good and theres no play whatsoever in the suspension. Also while at highway speeds, the car tends to drift with the wind. Passing other cars feels shifty. I have a shake over 80mph like theres either water in the tires throwing off the balance or theres an issue with the CV axles.

Dirkdiggler63

I took mine to the dealer on Friday and they found play in the passenger strut mount. I had the whole assembly replaced and the driver strut assembly also. It didn't completely removed the clunk but it is not as loud as before. Ricjames did you have your rims checked to see if they are bent? I have the clunk in front but car runs smooth through all speeds. I have a 2014 sv with sport package