I have a quick question, I have a valve cover gasket leak, I'll fix it by myself, the question is, do I really need to replace the cover or just the gasket? Also, Can I just replace one side? (the side that is leaking?)

 

You need to just replace the gasket. And just the one leaking side is ok. Be sure you follow the tightening sequence and torque specs in the Factory Service Manual (FSM). If you don't have the FSM, it can be downloaded for free. See my signature.

 

Nice! that will save me some money! I do have the FSM, but thanks anyways
Local shop wanted to charge me 1000 dealer wants over 2000

Edit:
Since I have to remove the intake to get to the valve cover, Do I need to replace the intake gasket too?

 

Replace both bank gaskets and intake manifold gasket.They are all rubber. Stick with OEM. Grab a small tube of Permatex Grey for the rocker cover corners (see FSM). Replace PCV while you're at it and check all hoses and do a good cleaning. That would be a thorough job.

As the Wizard said, there is a tightening sequence and torque value for the rocker covers. A cheap torque wrench may not be accurate/sensitive enough for the low torque needed. The bolts have a riser that spaces the width of the cover. Tighten in the two-step process but don't worry too much about exact torque if you don't have a good wrench. Tighten good and snug on the second round, but be cautious to not twist a bolt off in the head, it is very, very easy to do. I did so myself and had to extract one shank. I tightened all by feel after my blunder and haven't had any problems. Pay special attention to the front-most corner on bank two with the liquid gasket. You want a good seal there as it sits directly above the alternator. Read the FSM. Don't let the intake manifold scare you. I had mine off and replaced with a full spark plug change in about an hour.

 

Yes, I would replace the intake manifold gasket too. Intake manifold has torque specs and a sequence too.

And don't forget, the valve cover is probably gonna be listed in inch/lbs not ft/lbs for the torque spec.

 

Man you just got me freak out with the possibility to break one of those bolts. And like I said I’m trying to save some money right now, plus the leak is only in bank 1 so I wanted to know if is ok just to replace the gasket on that bank, plus the intake gasket

 

that’s holding me, i don’t have a torque wrench, I was looking to get a craftsman for 50bucks but not sure if that will be good enough for this, any cheap recommendations?

 

I have a tendency to over-torque EVERYTHING lol. Much more so than others, I'm sure.

It's not a big deal, just something to be mindful of You'll already have the top of the engine removed, that's the only reason I mentioned bank 2. Of course, bank 2 is pretty much exposed already, so probably no big deal to do it later, if ever.

 

I didn't use a torque wrench. I bought one specifically for this job, but then figured out that it wasn't really necessary. The torque value specified in the FSM basically seats the bolt to the head, bottoming out the bolt. As in, it can't get any tighter, unless you're me, and keep cranking on it till it busts off Pull a bolt off bank two and check it out. You'll see what I mean. Put it back in then tighten it down. Play with the torque a few times until you feel good about it. I'm tellin ya, it's not a hard job!

I've sheared more fasteners with a torque wrench than without in my day. And I'm far from the only one that will confess to that!

 

I have craftsman, husky and Harbor Freight torque wrenches. Harbor Freight's torque wrench is like $20. Works just as well as the name brands. At $20 a pop, you can buy the inch/lbs torque wrench and ft/lbs torque wrench for one craftsman torque wrench.

 

I just did this today on the front bank but replaced the valve cover assy as well as the gaskets. Note that some of the connectors on the fuel rail are brittle...as is the wiring loom (I will need to re-wrap) But after 425,000 miles and 11 years, I can't complain. I had to use some sealant to waterproof a few connectors I broke. (I really need to find a kit to repair those) Also, be careful of the control solenoid valve connectors. They too are brittle. $200 from the local Nissan dealer but aftermarket...$14. Same delivery time for both. I ordered both and will post on the efficacy of the aftermarket. I have a Harbor Freight inch-pound wrench as well. Doesn't get a lot of use, but very handy. Can't say I understand the difference sequence for removal and installation but I did follow it.

 

425,000 miles??? I'm barely at 150,000 I hope get to that one day with out my car dying. I'll be doing this one of this days... As the weather permits :/

 

Cool, Im gonna get me one, I was afraid that I needed something more accurate (expensive)

 

I hear ya. I meant to wait until December here in Florida when you can walk outside without filling your shoes with sweat. As it was, 20 trips in and out of the AC. If you could work inside, perhaps an hour maybe two job.

 

Thats right, Im in FL too...
I'll also replace spark plugs, should I stick to OEM? I been having kinda low mpg, so since Im replacing the gasket Ill do plugs too. no need to replace coils right?

 

If the coils go bad you will get a sel with a P03XX code (misfire cylinder.XX)b I had that code 2times. The first with a coil pack going bad, and the second time was yesterday, replacing the gasket (I didn't secure the connector to cylinder 6!)
I have been using the Denso Iridium FXE22HR11s, But if you MPG is low, I would focus on the vacuum connections and a cvt drain/fill/filter as well (like a I mentioned above, things get brittle...including the vacuum lines)
Don't forget the plenum gasket when you change the rear (the plenum must come off)

 

I recently replaced all the little vacuum lines, pcv valve, af sensors/oxygen sensors and had cvt oil done. So I'm gonna replace the plugs since Im at 150k, I got the car when it had 85k and I haven't replace them, I'll see if that helps

 

I'm in Tampa. We should have a mini-meet! Two 7th gens and a swapped 5th gen. I'd be interested in seeing a near 500k mi engine!

I could give you a hand if you want, Nestorsh. I've done everything you're looking to do, so I'm familiar with it. I also replaced my plugs with the OEM plugs the Lt. mentioned. I work a lot, but we could figure something out.

 

Same here, I work a lot but that will be nice...
Im looking at the plugs in advance autoparts seems to be the same plug, but cheaper ($15 vs $25 at the dealer).

 

I got mine here:


I'll send you a message with some contact info if you want to get together.

 

sounds good....
so they don’t have to be OEM (those from dealer), dealer told me only plugs bought at the dealer will work :/

 

The plugs I linked ARE OEM. The same plug listed in the FSM

 

Is nissanpartsdeal.com a good place to buy OEM parts? are they genuine?