Hello Im new in here and My 2010 maxima is starting to have shifts where the transmission slips. Does anyone knows a reason for this?

 

Mileage? Service history? CVT fluid changed before? CEL?
fault scanner checked?

 

As mahanddeem pointed out we would need more details to get a better understanding of what’s going on.

But barring that I suggest you do a fluid and filter replacement ASAP. But before the fluid replacement order a bottle Auto-RX and add the recommended amount. You only add half the bottle so there’s no need to drain some fluid first as the small amount that it may go over the ‘full’ mark will not cause any issues.

This stuff is the greatest cleaner on the planet. Obviously it can’t fix something that is physically broken. But it has stopped transmission slip on every vehicle I’ve used it on which is several. I’m a rural mail carrier and have gone through many cars and vans in the last 15 years plus I have used it on the family’s personal cars when needed. I buy older vans that do not have consoles in the middle to deliver out of. They usually have 100k+ miles on them to start with. Due to the abuse of the route I often will start getting tranny slippage around 150k miles.

For some reason I haven’t learned my lesson yet, so instead of running Auto-RX on them when I first buy them, I end up waiting till I start having problems. But so far out of 7 vehicles I’ve used it on, 6 had the slipping stop and shifted better than when we bought them. All but the one never had another transmission issue. A couple of the vans went another 150k miles each, hitting over 300k on the odometer and continued to shift as smoothly and perfect as possible. I only sell one when the engine reaches the point of not being worth it to repair or replace since I rarely spend more than $2500 on 12+ year old vans.

The first time I used this stuff in the oil, the filter felt like a lead weight when I removed it. It slipped out of my hand and splashed oil everywhere because I was not expecting it to be that heavy from the sludge that was removed. This stuff liquifies sludge as it cleans. It doesn’t loosen it up so that chunks of it can clog tiny passages.

No I’m not affiliated with the product in any way. I just found these forums since my daughter just bought a 2009 Maxima and was looking for help on a few things wrong. And I can’t pass up an opportunity to praise this product when I hear someone speak of a transmission slipping.

Does it fix every slipping transmission on the planet? Obviously no. But as cheap as the stuff is vs. the cost of a transmission rebuild or replacement, it only makes sense to try it first. You will want to do a complete fluid flush/replacement (not a flush using other chemicals though that some shops offer) after 700 miles. This is easy to do your self using the transmission lines that go to the radiator.

 

Bad advice. This is not your 1994 Ford pickup truck
This transmission is picky and complicated as hell. I'd shoot myself in the leg before dropping something other than Nissan NS2 fluid in it, let alone autozone magical-fix-it-all formula.

 

I don’t drive a 1994 Ford pickup truck nor anything near that old. But nice try at an insult. it’s not bad advice seeing as how you obviously know nothing about the product. It’s not a magical-fix-it-all formula, I made that clear. Your ignorance of the product and apparent ‘you know more than anyone else’ attitude could maybe research the item that’s not sold in Autozone and learn what it does and does not do before being such a jerk about it.

Auto-RX is often recommended by one of the most discerning and educated group of car enthusiasts on the web that hang out at the definitive site concerning the scientific analysis of oil, fluids and additives over at bobistheoilguy.com. It’s also recommended at many performance car sites as well. I’m not an enthusiast nor scientific. But those that are show proof it works and is safe.

And by ‘work’ I mean it safely cleans, not that it’s guaranteed to fix anything. From late model BMWs, Mercedes and other higher end foreign manufacturers to old 1994 Ford pickup trucks and everything in between, it’s probably been used on, with good results. You will find a large number of positive reviews all over the place. And you’ll find some that it didn’t do anything for. A person every now and then will claim it caused their seals to start leaking by damaging the seals, but it’s not possible for the product to do that. What it has done sometimes on engines that have been severally neglected is it removed the sludge that was packed against old shrunken seals that shrunk due to poor oil change rituals and then leaks developed around the existing damaged seals because the sludge was removed. No issues like that can happen inside a sealed transmission. So the cleaning process either helps or doesn’t help but can’t hurt. We’re talking about a transmission that already is slipping.

It’s been tested to be 100% safe to use on CVT transmissions. And once any transmission starts slipping that’s not caused by low fluid, the likely hood that it’s a solenoid or an electrical problem is extremely low. So to recommend something that could possibly extend the life of a transmission that’s starting to fail already is not bad advice. What’s bad advice is to act like you’re THE automotive authority that trumps everyone else because you can’t accept that technology has advanced beyond the 50’s and that there are products out there that can actually do what they claim they do.

Now obviously you’ve been here longer. I’m sure you know more about Maximas than I do. This is not an issue of who knows more. But there’s no reason to insult someone’s PRFERENCE. Obviously you don’t like additives. This particular one I do like. Because you’re not familiar with it being safe for CVT transmissions doesn’t mean you should insult someone else’s preference. Some people still change their oil every 3k miles because their dad said to do that growing up. It’s not harmful or bad advice if they tell someone else to do it.

I know this would be a never ending debate over the validity of using additives since you’re obviously against them. And the majority of them are a waste of money I agree. But this one is different and there’s proof by means of experiences that it’s different. So if a piece of advice is bad there has to be proof it’s bad, otherwise it’s a preference.

 

I would have the cvt maintained with fluid and a filter first. If then it continues then by all means try the Auto RX at that point. The only real similarity between a traditional auto and the cvt auto is the torque converter since its a belt and hydraulics vs clutches and hydraulics internally. However in the meantime I would search CVT and Auto RX compatibility honestly.

 

[QUOTE=Bificus99;9213200]I would have the cvt maintained with fluid and a filter first. If then it continues then by all means try the Auto RX at that point. /QUOTE]

yes that would be a good option for someone that may be hesitate about trying ARX for the first time, and as mentioned when dealing with an issue that is fixable only by rebuild or replace, if there’s no change with a plain fluid/filter change I personally believe it’s worth $20 as a last ditch effort since ARX has been around for years and has a pretty big following.