86'ed

Hi Guys... I was trying to contact this user but to no avail I thought I would ask here. See below...

Hi NCSUpilot,

I'm writing you in regards to this thread:
https://maxima.org/forums/6th-genera...ml#post9237775

I was wondering if you could share the technique used for this project as it sounds simple? (Removal of 2-4 bolts)
I (believe) need to replace the O-ring as I have a small leak.



I also plan on following the method to properly evacuate and vacuum the system prior to recharging it.

You Tube

Thanks for your help.

User1

One bolt per line. Coat O-rings with PAG oil prior to installation.

86'ed

I just took the car to the shop and have them inspect my A/C components. I was just informed that the compressor is failing... it has a leak. They (Firestone) said that the used the ink dye test and dye was found all all over the compressor after they test/inspected it. Kind of hard to believe after I only saw the small leak shown above. However, I have been hearing a light gurgling sound in the car when running the A/C and the unit is still blowing cold air. However, it unit takes a while to begin blowing cold air so I know there is a problem. Meanwhile, I just ordered the compressor kit for Rock Auto and plan to work / inspect it when the products arrive Wednesday (08/11/21). I will update then... Thanks for the support guys.

User1

I believe your shop. The first suspect for a leak is any location which has dirt stuck to it, just like how the connection areas on your compressor look. Oil leaks out of a leak, dirt sticks to it, over time gets grimy and nasty lookin. I just replaced the TXV in my 5th gen this morning. System was leaking a full charge in less than two hours. First thing I did was spray soapy water on my dirt-covered TXV in the firewall and sure enough, bubbly leak city. Crap Chinese TXV. Lasted two seasons. MaximusN8 will give you the lowdown on compressor replacement, he's done like, two of them in a year Lol

86'ed

*** UPDATE ***

I bought a compressor kit from RockAuto. It came with a new A/C compressor, expansion valve, condenser/drier and the usual new O-rings. I installed all the parts, but now the A/C system will not hold a vacuum for more than 40 mins, which means there is a leak. I put a dye & Freon (Combination) through the unit to see where it may have been leaking and found a leak near the compressor. I replaced the O-Ring, which had a small tear in it upon installation. I, again, tried to vacuumed the system and it still wouldn't hold. So I took it to Firestone Auto Care since they're running a special on A/C performance for $9.99 and was informed that either the new compressor and/or condenser/drier are bad. From what I was told, the compressor works or the clutch engages, but the A/C inside the car still runs hot or there is no temp change. The tech said thinks the Freon is not circulating throughout the system. After further research, I'm hearing that I should have flushed the A/C system before the installation of these components, which was never mentioned to me.

So my question is... is the compressor shot or what should I do at this point? Thanks in advance for everyone's input on this matter.

User1

You replaced everything but the evaporator coil, no need to "flush" anything. The tech would know if the TXV was obstructed by pressure readings. Hard to say what's going on without seeing the gauges.

Never rule out faulty "new" equipment anymore, it happens.

If you did all that work, you must have gauges.

I would start from scratch:

1) Dump in refrigerant until you hear clutch engagement, fans, and build up 150psi or so on the high side
2) Turn off car and start spraying soapy water on connections til you find the culprit
3) Fix leaks
4) Pull vacuum
5) Re-charge

User1

And by "Dump" I mean gas only, don't slam liquid into the compressor (keep can upright and let the pressure do the work)

86'ed

*** FINAL UPDATE ***

I apologize for the late response, college has been kicking my ***. I could not figure out where my vacuum the leak was so I took it to the shop. I'm assuming it had something to do with the loaner tools from Autozone because the shop I took it to (Midas) just serviced the vehicle for an evac and recharge. Once they did this, there wasn't a problem with the compressor or anything. So the install was a success, thanks to you guys! I really appreciate the help and if anybody is doing this type of repairs, send me a message or one of the guys here will help definitely help you out. You guys saved me over $500+ dollars so you owe you guys some food and a some cold ones!
Cheers!

Averydthomas

I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima and I went and had a ac check I was told I need a compressor and a condenser. I have gotten both changed out and checked so I starts off cool and then it turn warm. After riding for the next ten minutes it get cool again and then warm again. What could possibly be wrong?

User1

A number of things. If it were improperly charged, the system could be contaminated with air or some other non-condensable. Could be an issue with the control unit mixing heat/cold. Could be a system leak. Could be a faulty TXV. Just have to start going down the list.

First thing I would do is pull codes, then throw a set of gauges on it and go from there.

Reasmey Herr

I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima. I had to have my whole belt and tensioner assembly replaced due to my AC compressor leaking and flinging PAG oil all over it. So, now I have to replace my AC compressor. I have the AC compressor, but a couple of auto shops have told me different things. The shops have told me that because there was a leak in my compressor, the AC system has been contaminated, so that's something I have to worry about. But one shop has said that when I get the system evacted, the contaminates and the impurities should be removed. Another shop is saying that that would not work. They compared it to metal shavings in the bottom of an oil pan. You can drain the oil, but the shavings would still be in the bottom of the pan. But they're saying that this could be a 50/50 chance. I'm scared about this possible development. If what they are saying is true and my AC system could be contaminated, I would have to go in again and pay for labor and parts. And then also have to pay more for the whole AC kit which is something that I would not like to do. But I have a 50/50 shot. I've only had the leak for about six months as far as I know, so I don't know if that's enough time to have my system contaminated majorly. I would like to hear all of your guy's opinions on what I should do. I'm not entirely sure on what to do but what I am sure of is that I do not want to pay more than what I have to. Has anyone had any issues in the past about their AC compressor failing after getting it replaced due to contamination?