Hey everyone! I have a bit of a problem! I have a 2009 Maxima. It has been sitting for several years.

I’ve been doing someone work on it recently and noticed my rear crossmember where the Radius Arm connects is rusted all around and is hollow. How do I go about replacing the whole crossmember? I can get a bare one for about 500$. Or one with everything already attached (bearings, hubs, control arms, etc) for 1000$

Is it a job for an average diyer or should it be left to the pros? I’ve invested about 3000$ in repairs so far so kinda don’t want to trash the car but also don’t want to spend a ton at a shop or stealership.

Thanks for any help!

 

Man, she is a crusty one! A hoist, torch, and solid pry-bars are in order for this job.

 

Yes it is haha so what if I don’t have a hoist or a torch? Haha

I’m just working in my backyard. I was going to put it up on jack stands, take my exhaust out and work on the bolts for everything but worried my power tools aren’t up for the job since they aren’t air powered. Any other suggestions? Haha

I called local salvage yard I can get just the “K Frame” for about 500$ or the whole unit (wheel bearings, control arms ect) for about 1000$

So if I can tear out my whole suspension then the other one should be good to bolt in.

 

Man, this will test you patience but you can always try. There is no harm in that and that can, as you have alluded to, save you some money.

I would have someone look at the rest of the car to make sure she is worth all that work. You don't want to commit all that time/money to discover there is a serious structural issue with the integrity of the body of the car.

Go get your penetrating oil and start soaking every bolt/nut you're gonna have to deal with. I would liberally spray them 3 times. Give them a day to absorb the penetrating oil between soakings. Also take a wire brush and scrub down every exposed bolt/nut to remove any surface rust. You want the least amount of resistance.

And an impact gun will be your friend here. If you try this without an impact gun, then you'll run a serious risk of breaking bolts....and you don't want that.

Safety: make sure have have some redundancy for your jack stands. Put your rear tires under the car near you and the sub-frame so if she goes, then you're safe. Just remember that the tire needs to be in a place where you could put a jack stand so it can sustain the weight of the vehicle.

 

Thanks for the reply!
The only harm I was thinking about was that if I start taking stuff off and possibly snapping bolts and instead of having a car that can move I am left with a car without back wheels lol.

I wish I knew a mechanic, I live in the middle of nowhere and a tow is 100$ one way into a shop and I’m not looking to drive this anytime soon so I wouldn’t be insuring it. So 200$ in total for someone to look at it.

I got 2 cans of PB Blaster here! Once I put both sides up on jack stands I will begin the daily bathing haha

Now I bought an impact gun for working on this car, but it’s battery operated. And just an average name. And from what I have found it isn’t any good at busting loose stuck bolts. So an electric or air one is recommended I guess.

I always make sure I have a fail safe if my jack stands collapse! Thanks for including it though!

 

I don't think you'll break the big bolts...it will just the little dinky ones. 15mm head and smaller are the ones to worry about. The big ones will be fine. Use a breaker bar on those to break the torque and then zip them off with your impact gun. I have a heavy duty 1/2 inch x 18 inch breaker bar which is rated at 500 ft/lbs. Its great. (https://www.princessauto.com/en/1-2-...t/PA0008753659). If you can get something like that, then you should be okay.

But...make sure that thing is worth the time and money. If is going to cost you more than $2000 to get it on the road, then I would go find a cheap one (blown engine/CVT) and use your original car for parts. For example, this up in Canada and only $2000 (https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...ima/1579181361).

 

damn wow thanks for the time you spent replying and looking stuff up!

I do have a 12” breaker bar and I use a cheater pipe to get my calliper bracket bolts off earlier that day before I saw the rust.

I’ll be putting it up in a day or two on jack stands and starting my project and figuring out if I am way over my head haha

If I can do all the labour myself it’s just the cost of the crossmember and depending on it I just get the bare crossmember (500$) or the entire rear suspension (wheel hub & bearings, control arms etc) it will be about 1000$ From a donor car shipped from out west. (I’m in the east)

I live way out east so there’s not many scrap ones or broken down maximas around sadly and most that are listed are 4000$+ and in some what working condition. Plus I’ve put 3000$+ into this car now and if I don’t get it on the road under like 2500$ more then it’s gonna be junked. Still need a new windshield (600$), new brakes and tires. Didn’t expect the rear suspension.

Here’s hoping it’s easy! But with my luck it won’t be haha

Thanks for the advice

 

Hopefully some others will chime in. The more opinions the better!

Remember, If you hit the wall, then walk away and take a break.

Best of luck, bro.