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Hi all - I'm not active on this forum, but hoping someone might have experienced something similar with their vehicle and can help me out. My wife has a 2009 maxima (owned since new) with 80k miles on it. Car is in great shape, runs like a top.
However, over the past weekend we were in another state and the power steering went immediately while on the highway (everything drove perfect until the last minute or so until it went). After stopping, I tried to add fluid but it drained immediately when steering again, leaking all over the ground. So had it towed (with AAA) to Nissan dealer as close as I could get it to home (100 miles w/AAA plus). I expected this would be standard power steering pump or hose. But the dealer called me today saying I need to replace the steering rack and that it would be $2500 plus $129 for alignment. I'm skeptical since the kid that called me to tell the diagnosis told me there are no hoses as part of the power steering and no pump, even when I specifically asked if there was a pump attached to the drive belt that sends the fluid to the steering rack.
So long story long, my question is this:
1. When steering was 100% fine right up until power steering went, would that indicate a steering rack issue? I expected that would be something that happens over time and you feel play and awkward steering, and might have some slow leaking from it.
- Also, after power steering failure, it still actually steered fine, just harder to turn the wheel.
- Given the nature of the failure as I've described it (obviously without being able to see anything), would you expect a pump/hose or the steering rack?
I am considering towing it (at my expense) to a local mechanic that I do trust, but that would be pretty expensive in itself so maybe not save me much money if steering rack truly is the issue.
Sorry for the long description. Hope someone might have had a similar experience or can provide some advice.
Thank you! Really appreciate your feedback. Let me ask one more question ... so you'd be pretty confident it's possible to find the leak and replace whatever specific component is causing it versus having to replace the full unit? which I'm guessing is part #49001 from the steering gear link you sent.
And have a read. It's only a few pages. Then fire the kid that called you and told you there are no hoses or pumps. Then call his manager and have him fire him too.
Ha ha yeah I could tell the kid was clueless. Thanks for the link to the service manual ... going through it now. Looks like the concern is if the steering gear assembly is leaking. On ST-13 for inspection of power steering fluid, #6 says "Check steering gear boots for accumulation of fluid indicating leakage from steering gear." And then on ST-24 "Check for fluid leaks or damage to steering gear assembly. If any exist, replace steering gear assembly." So I guess that might be what he's referring to needing to be replaced.
Although I am surprised the entire reservoir of fluid would drain from that in a matter of seconds.
It might not have passively "drained" at all, the pump could have spit it out. There's really no need to speculate. Get it in the air and put your eyeballs on it.
Yup I'm pretty sure that's exactly what was happening as it was spitting out fluid each time I tried to fill it. Also why I assumed it was the pump gone bad. But point taken though, and agree, I'll get down there and ask them to show me where it's leaking.
Thanks again - really appreciate the help and the links. All super helpful.
Having replaced the power steering hose a few times myself, I can tell you that if any bolts are not tight to specs, the hose will shoot out fluid like a fire hose. The power steering pump creates pressure in the system.
So I would look at hoses first and then pump. Look for split hoses and joints. It won’t be hard to find the source of leak.
I hate incompetent auto shops. You just confirmed why.
Thanks guys. I talked to the dealer this morning, spoke to the service manager, who was at least able to explain better. According to him, the line on the gear assembly itself is what popped off, likely due to rust and then pressure of the system. And said that can't be replaced so that's why they have to replace the "full rack". Asked him to send me a picture (second below). Appears not attached but hard to tell? So my last question ... think that's valid? I'm thinking it might still be worth it to tow to a mechanic I trust as the overall cost to replace (even if that's actually the problem) will still be a few hundred cheaper (including tow/diagnosis fee).
IMO - having anything repaired at the dealer is always the most expensive and my last resort. If you have a mechanic that you trust, you can always call the place and explain the situation to get a quote. That will save you from towing the car for nothing. This is more than just a brake job. So not all mechanics will want to touch it.
Yup - I called my local mechanic who quoted me (if that truly is the issue) over $1k lower than what the dealer is charging. So car is currently being towed there now. I'll follow up here with final resolution and price when finished in case anyone else runs into this and tries to search the forum.
Rust sucks. That line will be a flare fitting. If the line is rusted out but the fitting can be removed from the rack, then just replace the line, the rack is still fine. I'd pull the old line, cut and bend up a new one with SS tubing, throw a couple matched flare fittings on it and call it a day.
Worst case scenario, depending on where you are and yard accessibility, go pull a used rack from a yard. Could probably even pull just the line.
