Oil Changes
02-14-2017, 01:50 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 15
Oil Changes
I'm sure this has been posted before, I just can't seem to find anything on it. Service manual says oil changes every 5k, but they use 0W-20 SN full synthetic. I've run synthetic in all my cars and most say change oil at 10k. Are we wasting money at 5k?
Just want to get some opinions before I schedule 5k service.
Thanks,
Just want to get some opinions before I schedule 5k service.
Thanks,
02-14-2017, 02:35 PM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 39
Im sure this post will get a lot of different opinions but Ive always run Penzoil full synthetic on my Nissans and changed my oil between 5k and 6k. Sure the oil can technically last until 10k but do you really wanna push the oil to its limits to save a few bucks? Another thing you have to consider is that if you wait until 10k miles how well is your oil filter working by then?
02-14-2017, 09:51 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
The service manager at my dealer told me Nissan puts a synthetic BLEND oil in 2016 Maximas at the factory, not full synthetic and not a 'breakin' oil (that Nissan used until a few years ago). I have worked very closely with her on all my Maximas for over ten years, and she has always shown herself to be very well informed.
The miles we should put on on our oil can vary widely depending on many factors. Driving mostly in dusty/desert/unpaved road conditions, driving frequently in a very cold or very hot environment, pulling trailers, driving a lot in steep mountain terrain, driving very aggressively, lots of driving in busy stop and go city traffic, making lots of very short trips, etc, are situations in which we should not only get oil changes on schedule, but perhaps even sooner than scheduled. Another situation sometimes overlooked is when a car is driven very seldom, mostly sitting in a garage. I would recommend changing the oil at least once a year, even if the mileage does not call for it.
At the other extreme, If most of my driving was in routine, easy conditions, especially open road or freeway mileage, a synthetic blend is easily good for 7500K, and should test good at least to around 10K. A full synthetic should be fine up to 10K, and should still test good with as much as 15K miles on it.
But we do have to consider that oil filters may not stay as efficient as the miles roll by. And I would not take a chance on running much past 5K while the car is in warranty.
I realize there will be around a hundred different opinions here regarding oil, and, despite the fact they may all differ, most of those opinions will work fine. And the truth is that neither a synthetic blend or full synthetic is required by Nissan. An excellent quality 0W-20 dino oil with API Service rating of SN meets all warranty requirements.
The miles we should put on on our oil can vary widely depending on many factors. Driving mostly in dusty/desert/unpaved road conditions, driving frequently in a very cold or very hot environment, pulling trailers, driving a lot in steep mountain terrain, driving very aggressively, lots of driving in busy stop and go city traffic, making lots of very short trips, etc, are situations in which we should not only get oil changes on schedule, but perhaps even sooner than scheduled. Another situation sometimes overlooked is when a car is driven very seldom, mostly sitting in a garage. I would recommend changing the oil at least once a year, even if the mileage does not call for it.
At the other extreme, If most of my driving was in routine, easy conditions, especially open road or freeway mileage, a synthetic blend is easily good for 7500K, and should test good at least to around 10K. A full synthetic should be fine up to 10K, and should still test good with as much as 15K miles on it.
But we do have to consider that oil filters may not stay as efficient as the miles roll by. And I would not take a chance on running much past 5K while the car is in warranty.
I realize there will be around a hundred different opinions here regarding oil, and, despite the fact they may all differ, most of those opinions will work fine. And the truth is that neither a synthetic blend or full synthetic is required by Nissan. An excellent quality 0W-20 dino oil with API Service rating of SN meets all warranty requirements.
Last edited by lightonthehill; 02-14-2017 at 09:59 PM.
02-15-2017, 04:00 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 585
But we do have to consider that oil filters may not stay as efficient as the miles roll by. And I would not take a chance on running much past 5K while the car is in warranty.
I realize there will be around a hundred different opinions here regarding oil, and, despite the fact they may all differ, most of those opinions will work fine. And the truth is that neither a synthetic blend or full synthetic is required by Nissan. An excellent quality 0W-20 dino oil with API Service rating of SN meets all warranty requirements.
I realize there will be around a hundred different opinions here regarding oil, and, despite the fact they may all differ, most of those opinions will work fine. And the truth is that neither a synthetic blend or full synthetic is required by Nissan. An excellent quality 0W-20 dino oil with API Service rating of SN meets all warranty requirements.
02-15-2017, 08:13 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 836
I received free oil changes for 3 years with my purchase. But the dealership uses 5W-30 bulk oil for ALL changes, unless you want to pay a ridiculous upcharge for bottled oil. So I took my own bottled 0W-20 to the dealer. So basically, I got a free oil filter in exchange for a 90+ mile round trip.
I have been changing my own ever since.
It should be noted, however, that the reason Nissan recommends 0W-20, is that they are required by the EPA to recommend whatever oil is in the car when the CAFE testing is done. They obviously used 0W-20 to maximize mpg ratings, as most other manufacturers do at this point. But that explains why the owner's manual "recommends" 0W-20, but then states that 5W-30 is acceptable. Many folks may also not realize that the EPA tests very few cars themselves, but relies on the manufacturers to test following the EPA's very strict protocols. The temptation to fudge/cheat on the test results have gotten several brands in trouble, Hyundai/Kia for one.
I will admit that pouring in the 0W-20 seems very watery, but used oil testing has shown 0W-20 to be a very stout oil that protects engines for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I have been changing my own ever since.
It should be noted, however, that the reason Nissan recommends 0W-20, is that they are required by the EPA to recommend whatever oil is in the car when the CAFE testing is done. They obviously used 0W-20 to maximize mpg ratings, as most other manufacturers do at this point. But that explains why the owner's manual "recommends" 0W-20, but then states that 5W-30 is acceptable. Many folks may also not realize that the EPA tests very few cars themselves, but relies on the manufacturers to test following the EPA's very strict protocols. The temptation to fudge/cheat on the test results have gotten several brands in trouble, Hyundai/Kia for one.
I will admit that pouring in the 0W-20 seems very watery, but used oil testing has shown 0W-20 to be a very stout oil that protects engines for hundreds of thousands of miles.
02-17-2017, 08:23 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 89
Canadian dealer installs 5W30 bulk oil every 8K km or 5K miles. It's a 4 year lease so probably won't keeps it. But that's what's required for the base engine warranty obligation. If I was keeping it long term, I'd change it myself and use 0W40 Mobil One Eurospec which is a Group 4 oil, as I do for my 2015 Mustang.
02-25-2017, 04:26 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 83
Oil changes are VERY important, but I think people overanalyze it. Change every 5k miles with any variation of oil, and you are fine. While these "high end" specialty oils are great, they are not needed for daily driver maxima.
07-25-2017, 08:40 AM
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 9
8th Gen Maxima Oil Changes for Dummies
After doing three oil changes on my 2017 Maxima, I put together a "Dummies" type guide for my son to help while I'm away, since the oil change procedure is one of the most convoluted I have ever seen in a passenger car and I've done a LOT of oil changes. A lot of the newer cars have an undercarriage plastic protector to protect against stone damage and to assist with aerodynamics, but the oil change process on the 2016-2017 Maxima is just plain stupid and not well thought out, as there are two plastic panels that have to be removed/detached.
It might be preventing a number of people from doing their own oil changes and rightly so. My local Nissan dealership charges under $50 for a synthetic oil change for the Maxima and it might seem the trouble isn't worth the cost savings which are minimal, but when I do an oil change, I make sure every last drop of old oil and crud is drained out and use a high quality Bosch 3300 premium oil filter.
So I am attaching a really detailed guide on how to do an oil change for my setup and gear at home. For many of you, this will be overkill, so please excuse the extra detail, but for others newer to oil changes, it will hopefully help to understand how it all works. As for the whole Rhino ramp/hydraulic jack setup in my instructions, I use both of those so I don't scrape the bottom edge of my front air dam, as it sits quite low. Cheers.
It might be preventing a number of people from doing their own oil changes and rightly so. My local Nissan dealership charges under $50 for a synthetic oil change for the Maxima and it might seem the trouble isn't worth the cost savings which are minimal, but when I do an oil change, I make sure every last drop of old oil and crud is drained out and use a high quality Bosch 3300 premium oil filter.
So I am attaching a really detailed guide on how to do an oil change for my setup and gear at home. For many of you, this will be overkill, so please excuse the extra detail, but for others newer to oil changes, it will hopefully help to understand how it all works. As for the whole Rhino ramp/hydraulic jack setup in my instructions, I use both of those so I don't scrape the bottom edge of my front air dam, as it sits quite low. Cheers.
07-25-2017, 09:42 AM
#14
After doing three oil changes on my 2017 Maxima, I put together a "Dummies" type guide for my son to help while I'm away, since the oil change procedure is one of the most convoluted I have ever seen in a passenger car and I've done a LOT of oil changes. A lot of the newer cars have an undercarriage plastic protector to protect against stone damage and to assist with aerodynamics, but the oil change process on the 2016-2017 Maxima is just plain stupid and not well thought out, as there are two plastic panels that have to be removed/detached.
It might be preventing a number of people from doing their own oil changes and rightly so. My local Nissan dealership charges under $50 for a synthetic oil change for the Maxima and it might seem the trouble isn't worth the cost savings which are minimal, but when I do an oil change, I make sure every last drop of old oil and crud is drained out and use a high quality Bosch 3300 premium oil filter.
So I am attaching a really detailed guide on how to do an oil change for my setup and gear at home. For many of you, this will be overkill, so please excuse the extra detail, but for others newer to oil changes, it will hopefully help to understand how it all works. As for the whole Rhino ramp/hydraulic jack setup in my instructions, I use both of those so I don't scrape the bottom edge of my front air dam, as it sits quite low. Cheers.
It might be preventing a number of people from doing their own oil changes and rightly so. My local Nissan dealership charges under $50 for a synthetic oil change for the Maxima and it might seem the trouble isn't worth the cost savings which are minimal, but when I do an oil change, I make sure every last drop of old oil and crud is drained out and use a high quality Bosch 3300 premium oil filter.
So I am attaching a really detailed guide on how to do an oil change for my setup and gear at home. For many of you, this will be overkill, so please excuse the extra detail, but for others newer to oil changes, it will hopefully help to understand how it all works. As for the whole Rhino ramp/hydraulic jack setup in my instructions, I use both of those so I don't scrape the bottom edge of my front air dam, as it sits quite low. Cheers.
