K&N cold air intake or Stillen
07-11-2020, 08:57 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 196
The Fram is certainly inexpensive- less that eight bucks on Amazon, at that price I'd probably change it more often, thanks, but my thought is stay with OEM quality and change intervals..
Last edited by denoose; 07-11-2020 at 02:55 PM.
07-11-2020, 10:39 AM
#9
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 243
Nissan OEM Air filters are pretty good quality. They used to be oiled like the K & N. I do not know if they still use them. Comparing OEM to Fram years ago, the OEM was much Higher quality. I am not impressed with anything FRAM. especially Oil filters
07-13-2020, 12:12 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 78
07-13-2020, 05:44 PM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 31
I have the stillen intake with the cat back exhaust and love it! Don’t listen to the stillen haters out there! Not much of a difference from stock filter in terms of performance but sounds great at acceleration! It’s your car and if you want to modify go for it!!!!!
07-13-2020, 06:35 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Posts: 131
I installed the K&N panel filter on my '16 MAX since new. I now have 84,000 trouble-free miles. Before that, I had one in my '07 Altima 3.5 SE for 170,000 trouble-free miles. I bought them because I'm lazy. However, I'm also a Mechanical Engineer and can tell you that I see zero particulate matter past the filter and into the throttle body housing tube (debunking a lot of youtube videos). Also, my butt-dyno tells me that it definitely does flow better than the stock paper filter on the high end; not by a lot, but by a slightly-noticeable amount (maybe 2-3hp if I had to guess). So, what-the-heck; I can be lazy and get a few extra hp...not bad in my book.
07-14-2020, 03:42 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 243
It will give you a nice growl...if you want to pay for a sound that makes you think it's faster...by all means....go ahead. In many instances, these do decrease HP. They end up sucking the hot air from the engine out of the bay instead of pulling the cool air from outside like the stock set up does
07-14-2020, 09:43 AM
#15
I installed the K&N panel filter on my '16 MAX since new. I now have 84,000 trouble-free miles. Before that, I had one in my '07 Altima 3.5 SE for 170,000 trouble-free miles. I bought them because I'm lazy. However, I'm also a Mechanical Engineer and can tell you that I see zero particulate matter past the filter and into the throttle body housing tube (debunking a lot of youtube videos). Also, my butt-dyno tells me that it definitely does flow better than the stock paper filter on the high end; not by a lot, but by a slightly-noticeable amount (maybe 2-3hp if I had to guess). So, what-the-heck; I can be lazy and get a few extra hp...not bad in my book.
Also, you can't feel a 2-3 hp difference.... anything you "feel" is called the placebo effect.
Secondly, let's assume for a second that what you say is true. If Nissan could rate their cars by 3hp more by simply spending an extra $5 for a "better" filter, they would have done it and included it as OEM with the car.
I think the only true part to your whole statement is that you're lazy. LOL Nothing wrong with that. I get it. One and done.
07-14-2020, 06:58 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,110
IMO, oiled filters are asking for trouble. I'm assuming for the sake of this discussion that the K&N panel filter you are described is of the oiled kind. Does K&N even make non-oiled filters? Any who, with oiled filters you run the risk of over-oiling the filter and the oil getting on the oh so sensitive MAF and messing things up.
Also, you can't feel a 2-3 hp difference.... anything you "feel" is called the placebo effect.
Secondly, let's assume for a second that what you say is true. If Nissan could rate their cars by 3hp more by simply spending an extra $5 for a "better" filter, they would have done it and included it as OEM with the car.
I think the only true part to your whole statement is that you're lazy. LOL Nothing wrong with that. I get it. One and done.
Also, you can't feel a 2-3 hp difference.... anything you "feel" is called the placebo effect.
Secondly, let's assume for a second that what you say is true. If Nissan could rate their cars by 3hp more by simply spending an extra $5 for a "better" filter, they would have done it and included it as OEM with the car.
I think the only true part to your whole statement is that you're lazy. LOL Nothing wrong with that. I get it. One and done.
07-15-2020, 08:56 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 78
07-15-2020, 11:35 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 606
https://jalopnik.com/here-are-five-p...ess-1744009588
From the article...
First off, the name “short ram” is a misnomer. Ram Air, no matter what your Trans-Am owning uncle says, doesn’t actually cram any extra air in the cylinder past what a traditional cold-air intake would do. The theory, in a nutshell, is that if you place your air intake path on the car in such a way that it takes advantage of the moving air flowing over the car, it’ll use the car’s momentum to pack all that air in the engine, making for a bigger bang and more power. SCIENCE!
The problem is that in order to have this happen with any sort of reasonable efficiency, you have to be traveling orders of magnitude faster than any speed limit in the country. But even if, for the sake of argument, ram air on consumer-grade cars worked, system wouldn’t.
While it does shorten and smoothen the intake stream over whatever stock airbox and resonator assembly comes in cars nowadays, allowing the air a more direct path to the combustion cycle, it does so by being placed in the extremely hot engine bay, where air pressure is often lower than it is outside, which is a no-no for power.
This sort of intake configuration, in naturally aspirated cars, is particularly susceptible to heat soak and can let a considerable amount of ponies out of the stable, never to return. Sure, the setup makes an interesting induction noise but not much else. You’re better off buying a good panel filter for your stock airbox or, at most, a well-engineered cold air intake that takes air from outside the engine bay which is colder and thus more dense.
From the article...
First off, the name “short ram” is a misnomer. Ram Air, no matter what your Trans-Am owning uncle says, doesn’t actually cram any extra air in the cylinder past what a traditional cold-air intake would do. The theory, in a nutshell, is that if you place your air intake path on the car in such a way that it takes advantage of the moving air flowing over the car, it’ll use the car’s momentum to pack all that air in the engine, making for a bigger bang and more power. SCIENCE!
The problem is that in order to have this happen with any sort of reasonable efficiency, you have to be traveling orders of magnitude faster than any speed limit in the country. But even if, for the sake of argument, ram air on consumer-grade cars worked, system wouldn’t.
While it does shorten and smoothen the intake stream over whatever stock airbox and resonator assembly comes in cars nowadays, allowing the air a more direct path to the combustion cycle, it does so by being placed in the extremely hot engine bay, where air pressure is often lower than it is outside, which is a no-no for power.
This sort of intake configuration, in naturally aspirated cars, is particularly susceptible to heat soak and can let a considerable amount of ponies out of the stable, never to return. Sure, the setup makes an interesting induction noise but not much else. You’re better off buying a good panel filter for your stock airbox or, at most, a well-engineered cold air intake that takes air from outside the engine bay which is colder and thus more dense.
Last edited by RickSmith; 07-15-2020 at 11:43 AM.
07-15-2020, 12:54 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 606
U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Vehicle Technologies Program had a study conducted at Oak Ridge National Laboratory, Oak Ridge, Tennessee entitled "EFFECT OF INTAKE AIR FILTER CONDITION ON VEHICLE FUEL ECONOMY"
Here is that report, and their conclusion mentioned in Section 3:
Four filter setups, an OEM filter, an aftermarket filter, a performance aftermarket filter, and no filter, were tested, using the 2007 Buick Lucerne as the test vehicle, to determine a baseline and the filter to be used for the remainder of the testing. Each setup was tested over the WOT cycle described previously. It was observed that the OEM filter resulted in a higher Outlet DP than the aftermarket filter and the performance aftermarket filter, as is shown in Fig. 3.1. The aftermarket filter was chosen for the test process due to its lower initial Outlet DP compared to the OEM filter and because it is more common than the performance aftermarket filter; thus, it allowed us to explore the largest clean-to-clogged difference for a commonly used air filter. No measureable differences were observed in vehicle performance with these filters over the CRC E-60 WOT test cycle.
https://fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/air...02_26_2009.pdf
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