couldnt find a sticky on how to install energy suspeension front bushings on my 97. anyone know how difficult it is and how its done? thx in advance
well i didnt get them in yet. i just ordered them. so i will see i guess =P haha. just wanted to prepare for whats ahead
Uhhh, ES bushings take me an hour to do.. dunno what your problem was, but they're not that hard if you just follow the instructions.
then again, I've doen a few dozen sets of them... but it's only 4 bolts on each side and four bushings.
then again, I've doen a few dozen sets of them... but it's only 4 bolts on each side and four bushings.
I'm nutty for Nissans
4 bolts? Were talking about control arms here right? They dont take a bunch of skill, its just a ***** to work with 10 year old rusty parts. If the car was new it wouldnt be all that bad.
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rust? hose everything down with aerokroil a day of so before you start the work. shouldn't let it get that rusty to begin with. with the proper maintenance and anti-rust coatings under the car, they won't get bad enough that you have to cut and burn things off. Originally Posted by JSutter
4 bolts? Were talking about control arms here right? They dont take a bunch of skill, its just a ***** to work with 10 year old rusty parts. If the car was new it wouldnt be all that bad.
also realize this guy is in hawaii. they have salty air, but the roads aren't covered in salt all winter like the NE states. but that's all beside the point.
I forgot a bolt... add one more for the sway bar bolt.
5 bolts total per side..
1 nut on front of control arm.
2 bolts on rear of control arm.
1 nut ball joint to knuckle. whack knuckle a few times or use pickle fork and ball joint comes loose.
1 nut sway bar to control arm.
it's off the car.
burn the center of the front bushings out- 5 min each.
use hacksaw, hammer, and chisel and cut the outer section out. 5 min.
2-jaw puller removes the rear bushing in about 30 seconds.
ES bushings go on by hand, with pliers at worst. 5 min per side.
installation is reverse of removal. 5-10 more minutes.
I've even done it without pulling the wheel off, but of course it's easier to pull the wheel.
I'm nutty for Nissans
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also realize this guy is in hawaii. they have salty air, but the roads aren't covered in salt all winter like the NE states. but that's all beside the point.
I forgot a bolt... add one more for the sway bar bolt.
5 bolts total per side..
1 nut on front of control arm.
2 bolts on rear of control arm.
1 nut ball joint to knuckle. whack knuckle a few times or use pickle fork and ball joint comes loose.
1 nut sway bar to control arm.
it's off the car.
burn the center of the front bushings out- 5 min each.
use hacksaw, hammer, and chisel and cut the outer section out. 5 min.
2-jaw puller removes the rear bushing in about 30 seconds.
ES bushings go on by hand, with pliers at worst. 5 min per side.
installation is reverse of removal. 5-10 more minutes.
I've even done it without pulling the wheel off, but of course it's easier to pull the wheel.
Thats great but there arent many people who have done it even once let alone multiple times. Also do not think for a second that *he she me they* have the skills or tools of a professional. And that comment on rust is ignorant, my car was used..... nothing I did. Metal + water = rust. It happens. Every single LCA bushing install thread on here has at least one issue, its not pop on pop off for every one.Originally Posted by Matt93SE
rust? hose everything down with aerokroil a day of so before you start the work. shouldn't let it get that rusty to begin with. with the proper maintenance and anti-rust coatings under the car, they won't get bad enough that you have to cut and burn things off. also realize this guy is in hawaii. they have salty air, but the roads aren't covered in salt all winter like the NE states. but that's all beside the point.
I forgot a bolt... add one more for the sway bar bolt.
5 bolts total per side..
1 nut on front of control arm.
2 bolts on rear of control arm.
1 nut ball joint to knuckle. whack knuckle a few times or use pickle fork and ball joint comes loose.
1 nut sway bar to control arm.
it's off the car.
burn the center of the front bushings out- 5 min each.
use hacksaw, hammer, and chisel and cut the outer section out. 5 min.
2-jaw puller removes the rear bushing in about 30 seconds.
ES bushings go on by hand, with pliers at worst. 5 min per side.
installation is reverse of removal. 5-10 more minutes.
I've even done it without pulling the wheel off, but of course it's easier to pull the wheel.
Senior Member
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I didn't see mention of any tool that isn't readily available to the average "driveway mechanic". Only the implied oxy-acetylene rig could be considered somewhat unusual (though I've had one, complete with tanks, in every residence I've had including an apartment complex unit). Originally Posted by JSutter
Thats great but there arent many people who have done it even once let alone multiple times. Also do not think for a second that *he she me they* have the skills or tools of a professional. And that comment on rust is ignorant, my car was used..... nothing I did. Metal + water = rust. It happens. Every single LCA bushing install thread on here has at least one issue, its not pop on pop off for every one.
While even a little experience with the same or a related task helps immensely, so does having a little confidence going into the task, which is what I'm reading Matt's post as trying to get across. If you can cut down the size of a job to what it is rather than what you imagine it to be it's easier to see your way through it. Imagination without a sound basis has a way of making any given amount of work look like more than it is, and more difficult to boot.
FWIW, I heat the control arm around the bushings to break the rubber to metal bond instead of directly assaulting the rubber with the blue wrench. Less fire, smoke, & molten rubber blobs that way, and the bushings "ooze" out on their own about as often as not. A hammer and a dowel takes care of the rest. While my experience with this has been with other cars, the technique should be transferrable (that, plus a little control arm refinishing).
Norm
oxy-acetylene isn't even required. I use a regular propane torch that I bought at Wal-Mart. the nozzle is about $10-15 and refill cans of propane are a couple bucks each..
JSutter, as for the rust, it's not an ignorant comment. Just because YOU bought a used car with rust problems doesn't mean _I_ bought a rusty car. I would never buy one either, and I would never let that happen to a car. I keep mine clean enough that there's never more than minor surface rust on anything.. if it gets worse than that, then i grind and paint. I consider that regular maintenance, especially when you live in the rust belt.
Ignorant? no. In fact, I think maintaining your car is a very smart thing to do.
JSutter, as for the rust, it's not an ignorant comment. Just because YOU bought a used car with rust problems doesn't mean _I_ bought a rusty car. I would never buy one either, and I would never let that happen to a car. I keep mine clean enough that there's never more than minor surface rust on anything.. if it gets worse than that, then i grind and paint. I consider that regular maintenance, especially when you live in the rust belt.
Ignorant? no. In fact, I think maintaining your car is a very smart thing to do.
I'm nutty for Nissans
Its the north east, we're used to it. We drool over clean rust free southern 10+ year old cars. Look at my engine bay (can be a very neglected area), I get compliments all the time and questions on how I keep is so clean. Im not bragging, its not a show car nor is it spectacular, but its not all rusted out like you act. I take care of my car now that its mine, I cant go back in time and tell the past owners to oil the underside. Im sure as hell not going to restore a Maxima either. If it needs to be fixed I will do so. Rust is common around here, get over it. Some crappy nuts and bolts were not going to keep me from buying it. Thats just another stupid comment. Just because there is some rust doesnt mean its not maintained. No car is perfect.
BTW my suspension must be up to your standards now.
BTW my suspension must be up to your standards now.
surface rust on a few nuts and bolts are one thing.
bolts that are rusted through and have to come off with a torch and grinder are another. and YES, that is poor maintenance. you live in an area where they pour salt on the roads. there's nothing wrong with that, unless you expect to be able to maintain a car up there like you do down here. I've seen 10+yr old cars from up north with no major rust. why? the owners pop the hood and spend some time cleaning the car once a week. it's as simple as that. Saying a car MUST get rusty because it lives up north is an ignorant comment.
and no, not everyone has an hour a week to clean their cars.. I understant that. others do. it's a matter of what you want at that point. if you want a rust-free car, then you have to stay on top of it.
bolts that are rusted through and have to come off with a torch and grinder are another. and YES, that is poor maintenance. you live in an area where they pour salt on the roads. there's nothing wrong with that, unless you expect to be able to maintain a car up there like you do down here. I've seen 10+yr old cars from up north with no major rust. why? the owners pop the hood and spend some time cleaning the car once a week. it's as simple as that. Saying a car MUST get rusty because it lives up north is an ignorant comment.
and no, not everyone has an hour a week to clean their cars.. I understant that. others do. it's a matter of what you want at that point. if you want a rust-free car, then you have to stay on top of it.
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bolts that are rusted through and have to come off with a torch and grinder are another. and YES, that is poor maintenance. you live in an area where they pour salt on the roads. there's nothing wrong with that, unless you expect to be able to maintain a car up there like you do down here. I've seen 10+yr old cars from up north with no major rust. why? the owners pop the hood and spend some time cleaning the car once a week. it's as simple as that. Saying a car MUST get rusty because it lives up north is an ignorant comment.
and no, not everyone has an hour a week to clean their cars.. I understant that. others do. it's a matter of what you want at that point. if you want a rust-free car, then you have to stay on top of it.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
surface rust on a few nuts and bolts are one thing.bolts that are rusted through and have to come off with a torch and grinder are another. and YES, that is poor maintenance. you live in an area where they pour salt on the roads. there's nothing wrong with that, unless you expect to be able to maintain a car up there like you do down here. I've seen 10+yr old cars from up north with no major rust. why? the owners pop the hood and spend some time cleaning the car once a week. it's as simple as that. Saying a car MUST get rusty because it lives up north is an ignorant comment.
and no, not everyone has an hour a week to clean their cars.. I understant that. others do. it's a matter of what you want at that point. if you want a rust-free car, then you have to stay on top of it.
How are you supposed to pop the hood and clean everthing out let alone clean your car when it does not get above 20 deg for two months?
Even if I go through a heated car wash with an underbody spray it does nothing... As soon as the water hits my car it is frozen and my car is covered in ice.
