300ZX Master Cylinder Swap - Lets put this one to rest once and for all
11-23-2012, 01:43 PM
#41
I do have the aluminum calipers, but have not got them hot enough to make any difference so far.
I'm not sure about their math, but certainly their was a negligible drop in the pedal before giving solid feedback.
The solution I came up with was to put some nuts (from bolts, not mine), that were approximately 1/4" in thickness each, under the metal pedal cover I had installed.
This pushed the pedal surface area out further and compensated for the initial drop in the pedal...so to your foot it feels right and allows for better heel and toe downshifting.
To be honest it worked better than expected and cost nothing but about 10 minutes to install..problem solved.
The stock master has been plenty strong enough otherwise, will lock up with no problem at all if you get too deep into the pedal, just takes a little practice to get used to your new brakes lock-up point and then how to "threshold brake" properly.
I'm not sure about their math, but certainly their was a negligible drop in the pedal before giving solid feedback.
The solution I came up with was to put some nuts (from bolts, not mine), that were approximately 1/4" in thickness each, under the metal pedal cover I had installed.
This pushed the pedal surface area out further and compensated for the initial drop in the pedal...so to your foot it feels right and allows for better heel and toe downshifting.
To be honest it worked better than expected and cost nothing but about 10 minutes to install..problem solved.
The stock master has been plenty strong enough otherwise, will lock up with no problem at all if you get too deep into the pedal, just takes a little practice to get used to your new brakes lock-up point and then how to "threshold brake" properly.
11-23-2012, 05:25 PM
#42
I do have the aluminum calipers, but have not got them hot enough to make any difference so far.
I'm not sure about their math, but certainly their was a negligible drop in the pedal before giving solid feedback.
The solution I came up with was to put some nuts (from bolts, not mine), that were approximately 1/4" in thickness each, under the metal pedal cover I had installed.
This pushed the pedal surface area out further and compensated for the initial drop in the pedal...so to your foot it feels right and allows for better heel and toe downshifting.
To be honest it worked better than expected and cost nothing but about 10 minutes to install..problem solved.
The stock master has been plenty strong enough otherwise, will lock up with no problem at all if you get too deep into the pedal, just takes a little practice to get used to your new brakes lock-up point and then how to "threshold brake" properly.
I'm not sure about their math, but certainly their was a negligible drop in the pedal before giving solid feedback.
The solution I came up with was to put some nuts (from bolts, not mine), that were approximately 1/4" in thickness each, under the metal pedal cover I had installed.
This pushed the pedal surface area out further and compensated for the initial drop in the pedal...so to your foot it feels right and allows for better heel and toe downshifting.
To be honest it worked better than expected and cost nothing but about 10 minutes to install..problem solved.
The stock master has been plenty strong enough otherwise, will lock up with no problem at all if you get too deep into the pedal, just takes a little practice to get used to your new brakes lock-up point and then how to "threshold brake" properly.
IIRC, I met you before at a CN meet, I had the I30. Grant(NCSU_MAX, he had the black 3.5 swap 4th gen) was running aluminum Z32s and was always saying they work well but the initial bite could not match stock brakes. But i'll see im getting all my brake parts together im going to run Irons and see how they do.
11-24-2012, 11:28 AM
#43
I definitely remember meeting you guys down at the meet.
I'm not sure what Grant was referring to though, maybe he meant the initial loss of feel because of the distance the pedal was traveling with the new system compared to stock.
If that's the case I'd recommend you do the same thing I did, works great. It's not such a difference that you would feel like you have to lift your leg higher to get your foot onto the brake pedal, it's actually a natural transition.
It took me quite a while to get all the pieces together and actually get my butt in gear and do it, but I'm so happy it's done...totally worth it.
I went with the Fastbrakes kit for the rear to help balance it out, plus braided lines, Ate fluid and hawk pads.
Eventually I plan on tracking this car, I don't expect their to be a problem with running these calipers, but I'll also be running race pads instead as well as better, more appropriate tires and ducting to cool the brakes.
I'm not sure what Grant was referring to though, maybe he meant the initial loss of feel because of the distance the pedal was traveling with the new system compared to stock.
If that's the case I'd recommend you do the same thing I did, works great. It's not such a difference that you would feel like you have to lift your leg higher to get your foot onto the brake pedal, it's actually a natural transition.
It took me quite a while to get all the pieces together and actually get my butt in gear and do it, but I'm so happy it's done...totally worth it.
I went with the Fastbrakes kit for the rear to help balance it out, plus braided lines, Ate fluid and hawk pads.
Eventually I plan on tracking this car, I don't expect their to be a problem with running these calipers, but I'll also be running race pads instead as well as better, more appropriate tires and ducting to cool the brakes.
Last edited by back2basics; 11-24-2012 at 11:33 AM.
12-04-2012, 09:52 AM
#44
Crusher, the piston math you hinted at a few posts up is WAY incorrect. you have to factor total piston area- not diameter, and being a fixed 4-piston caliper the math is different than from a sliding single piston caliper.
the big difference in brake feel on initial brake application is 95% of the time due to brake pad selection. you simply cannot compare the feel of two brake systems unless you're using the same pads. Also keep in mind that rotor size plays a huge factor in this as well, as stopping power is directly related to pad pressure * pad friction coefficiet * rotor radius.
Change any of those variables, and you have a completely different pedal feel.
some brake pads are also compressible- like the Ferodo DS2500. the pads worked great, but they always left me with a spongy pedal.
the big difference in brake feel on initial brake application is 95% of the time due to brake pad selection. you simply cannot compare the feel of two brake systems unless you're using the same pads. Also keep in mind that rotor size plays a huge factor in this as well, as stopping power is directly related to pad pressure * pad friction coefficiet * rotor radius.
Change any of those variables, and you have a completely different pedal feel.
some brake pads are also compressible- like the Ferodo DS2500. the pads worked great, but they always left me with a spongy pedal.
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