VQ35 internals in VQ30 makes VQ33 stroker, bolt on! PICS!
#241
why would we go to the trouble of stroking if we wanted a vq35 lol
3.0 is so much more reliable for our cars. the way i look at it, if you can do some good work to your stock motor and have it prove a better option than a motor swap, that's the way to go.
i mean, would you rather have a 3.0 with VI and 3.5 cams, possibly even bored/stroked, or to have a 3.5 swap?
it's a matter of opinion. after all, we're all entitled to one lol
3.0 is so much more reliable for our cars. the way i look at it, if you can do some good work to your stock motor and have it prove a better option than a motor swap, that's the way to go.
i mean, would you rather have a 3.0 with VI and 3.5 cams, possibly even bored/stroked, or to have a 3.5 swap?
it's a matter of opinion. after all, we're all entitled to one lol
#242
VQ35 crank = 81.4 mm / 2 = 40.7 mm peak crank height
VQ35 rods = 144.2 mm average center distance
VQ30 pistons = 30.7 mm average compression height
Total bottom end length = 215.6 mm
VQ30 average block height = 215 mm
This is more doable and requires less machine work. You would only have to flycut off 0.6 mm from the VQ30 pistons to get the proper deck height.
VQ35 rods = 144.2 mm average center distance
VQ30 pistons = 30.7 mm average compression height
Total bottom end length = 215.6 mm
VQ30 average block height = 215 mm
This is more doable and requires less machine work. You would only have to flycut off 0.6 mm from the VQ30 pistons to get the proper deck height.
that's exactly the way I built a 3.3L here in NY a few years back.. I got the idea from Rob Tilley who had built a 3.3L stroker (boosted) back in 2005 and had it working in his car..
but I cheated the machining
Cometic made me thicker vq30de head gaskets for the build.. (custom order)
however that spaced out the heads further out from each other (vs stock HG) I had to get rid of the middle chain guide in between the two intake cam gears to make the main (long) timing chain even fit.. the main chain tensioner and guide still put plenty of tension on the chain, but the chain was much more taught from the spacing
that build was totally experimental.. my friend and I had the parts from other completed maxima projects and I had the time/motivation/determination to make something new from them.. 3.3L was alive and working in friend's 4th gen for 6-7 months.. it was swapped out for a full 3.5L later on.. i have no clue as to what happened with that hybrid 3.3L motor it might still be in somebody's Maxima here in NY.. or maybe it was scrapped years ago.. i'm not in contact with that 'friend' anymore
a few things i remember from 3.0L/3.5L parts..
this was done on a 95-99 VQ30DE block with 140K and busted rod bearings
we had a 01 block as well BUT.. the piston height in each cylinder @ TDC was physically lower in the DE block than in a 2001 DE-k block by maybe 1/8 of an inch, so I opted for the DE block thinking about deck height.. (looking back at it now I could have used the DEk block since crank rods AND pistons were changed..
there was no piston/valve clearance issues with thicker Cometic head gasket.. it was really really thick = almost 3 times thicker than stock!! i believe 0.08in (hence the middle chain guide removal)
components used for 3.3L hybrid stroker
Vq30 pistons + piston pins
vq35de crank + vq35de rods (from a oil burner 2002 block going to the junkyard)
NEW Custom thickness COMETIC vq30 Head Gaskets
NEW vq35 ACL rod bearings (stock were from a oil burner engine = garbage)
vq35 cams drilled by Tilley..
00vi manifold -- for the top-end
SS Autochrome headers (were already on the 4th gen the block went in)
tuned w/ vafc2 using wideband
if you have questions about that build pm me since i don't post that often..
I think a full 3.5L will give more power/Torque and will be cheaper to build
..unless you have all the Vq30/vq35 donor parts like I did and truly want to build something unique..
#244
#245
no clue since the thicker HG lowered CR had great N/A response
i was thinking of what would be a good SOLID 3.0L
you can get JDM VQ30DET pistons (9:1 CR) 3.5L Eagle rods (since there's no Aftermarket rod upgrade for 3.0Ls) and vq35 crank.. pistons should be dished to account for the CR change..
since even the 'so-called stout' 3.0Ls can't take that much boost/abuse without spitting out rods thru the block/oil pump and bearing failure
a friend's SC'd 3.0L stock DE block -- 9psi
picture used from TJ_Maxx -- he ripped that block apart and installed a DEK w/ ARP/valvetrain goodies to take the power/ rev free
more "stout" 3.0Ls that bought the farm and the surrounding area
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=48702
at the end of the day tho, you can do everything to the 3.5L and make more POWER/Torque than the 3.0L/3.3L
i was thinking of what would be a good SOLID 3.0L
you can get JDM VQ30DET pistons (9:1 CR) 3.5L Eagle rods (since there's no Aftermarket rod upgrade for 3.0Ls) and vq35 crank.. pistons should be dished to account for the CR change..
since even the 'so-called stout' 3.0Ls can't take that much boost/abuse without spitting out rods thru the block/oil pump and bearing failure
a friend's SC'd 3.0L stock DE block -- 9psi
picture used from TJ_Maxx -- he ripped that block apart and installed a DEK w/ ARP/valvetrain goodies to take the power/ rev free
more "stout" 3.0Ls that bought the farm and the surrounding area
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=48702
at the end of the day tho, you can do everything to the 3.5L and make more POWER/Torque than the 3.0L/3.3L
#248
This can be done and has been. There is only one problem that needs to be resolved. The piston sticks out of the deck by 1 mm or so. The simplest solution is to have the connecting rod shaved. This means you have the cap shaved 1 mm then connected to the rod and then hone the rod and cap re shaped to fit the crank. If you are using stock pistons the compression ratio will increase to about 11 to 1.
Ferhan
Ferhan
VQ35 crank = 81.4 mm / 2 = 40.7 mm peak crank height
VQ35 rods = 144.2 mm average center distance
VQ30 pistons = 30.7 mm average compression height
Total bottom end length = 215.6 mm
VQ30 average block height = 215 mm
This is more doable and requires less machine work. You would only have to flycut off 0.6 mm from the VQ30 pistons to get the proper deck height.
VQ35 rods = 144.2 mm average center distance
VQ30 pistons = 30.7 mm average compression height
Total bottom end length = 215.6 mm
VQ30 average block height = 215 mm
This is more doable and requires less machine work. You would only have to flycut off 0.6 mm from the VQ30 pistons to get the proper deck height.
any power numbers for this set-up?
do i actually have to use an Emanage to set the map correctly or is the stock ecu sufficient?
also, can i use any vq35 crank, rods or does it have to be from a pathfinder?...
Last edited by MaxiNone; 12-19-2009 at 01:54 PM.
#249
damn!
i hate to be doing this.. being a old *** thread and that i had to make a new account since i forgot my old name and email.. (i know)
but i got to automotive school and right now we are in machine shop. today we was talking about center distance between main journals on cranks. and got me thinking about this thread. so i pull out my fsm..for the vq30 vq35 and vq40. scroll down to the crankshaft sds. according to the fsm the center distances between the vq30-vq40 vary
between 4mm and 9mm.... so what i am wondering is
HOW will these cranks fit if the placement of the mains journals are so spread out? we arent talking thousandths but actuall mm.
i hate to be doing this.. being a old *** thread and that i had to make a new account since i forgot my old name and email.. (i know)
but i got to automotive school and right now we are in machine shop. today we was talking about center distance between main journals on cranks. and got me thinking about this thread. so i pull out my fsm..for the vq30 vq35 and vq40. scroll down to the crankshaft sds. according to the fsm the center distances between the vq30-vq40 vary
between 4mm and 9mm.... so what i am wondering is
HOW will these cranks fit if the placement of the mains journals are so spread out? we arent talking thousandths but actuall mm.
#250
damn!
i hate to be doing this.. being a old *** thread and that i had to make a new account since i forgot my old name and email.. (i know)
but i got to automotive school and right now we are in machine shop. today we was talking about center distance between main journals on cranks. and got me thinking about this thread. so i pull out my fsm..for the vq30 vq35 and vq40. scroll down to the crankshaft sds. according to the fsm the center distances between the vq30-vq40 vary
between 4mm and 9mm.... so what i am wondering is
HOW will these cranks fit if the placement of the mains journals are so spread out? we arent talking thousandths but actuall mm.
i hate to be doing this.. being a old *** thread and that i had to make a new account since i forgot my old name and email.. (i know)
but i got to automotive school and right now we are in machine shop. today we was talking about center distance between main journals on cranks. and got me thinking about this thread. so i pull out my fsm..for the vq30 vq35 and vq40. scroll down to the crankshaft sds. according to the fsm the center distances between the vq30-vq40 vary
between 4mm and 9mm.... so what i am wondering is
HOW will these cranks fit if the placement of the mains journals are so spread out? we arent talking thousandths but actuall mm.
#256
I need some insight.
Ive been a member for a short time, but have viewede this thread for a long time as a guest, i have a 96 se, 5spd, love my car. But as with everyone else i want something nobody around my area has, and i want it with my name on it. I work as a tech, i just aquired a full rotating assy from an 03 vq35de. Crank needs pollished thats it. I have the cams crank rods, and oil pump. I need insight bc iv read about the exploding oil pumps, low tollerance for boost. Is it pheasable to do a dry sump, and run the vq30det pistons on this 3.3 stroker concept? I have a turbo, and really wanna use it, only after about 9 psi, I have checked and rechecked specs, I know itl work, but dont know how to set up the runner controls for the 01 intake, and worried that i wont find anyone to tune it in my area?
#257
Ive been a member for a short time, but have viewede this thread for a long time as a guest, i have a 96 se, 5spd, love my car. But as with everyone else i want something nobody around my area has, and i want it with my name on it. I work as a tech, i just aquired a full rotating assy from an 03 vq35de. Crank needs pollished thats it. I have the cams crank rods, and oil pump. I need insight bc iv read about the exploding oil pumps, low tollerance for boost. Is it pheasable to do a dry sump, and run the vq30det pistons on this 3.3 stroker concept? I have a turbo, and really wanna use it, only after about 9 psi, I have checked and rechecked specs, I know itl work, but dont know how to set up the runner controls for the 01 intake, and worried that i wont find anyone to tune it in my area?
Tuning options for an 01? You're limited to EU or a full standalone, I'm suggesting standalone for MAP reasons when boosting.
#258
emanage ultimate is capable of map tuning. Streetz did it.
#259
Apart from having full control of cam timing, the EU can do anything you can imagine as far as tuning, people under estimate it. I have my setup using a MAP, no MAF in the car at all. And if you add the JS Safeguard ontop of the EU, then your in real business.
#260
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Use a VQ30 block with VQ35 crank along with the DET pistons you have. Either run modified VQ35 rods or custom rods and you are ready to go. As far as a dry sump, it can be done but will run you at least $1500 for the setup.
I am running a 3.2/3.3ish liter VQ in my 97 Maxima that is turbocharged.
Ferhan
I am running a 3.2/3.3ish liter VQ in my 97 Maxima that is turbocharged.
Ferhan
#261
Everyone keeps suggesting a 3.5 swap. do they mean the block and hardware/internal or the whole damn shabang? because the 00-01 have notably different ECUs/Wiring Harnesses and require some serious electrical wizardry or harness and ECU swap. VS fly cutting some pistons/rods and running N/A with nice aftermarket 3.5 cam and stout rods with ARP bolts and cooling and oil and tune to correct for 3.3L and higher comp. or maybe it's worth it to stick with a cam and 8psi and no more of boost.
EDIT: i forget to realize most folks don't have access to free or cheap machine work.
EDIT: i forget to realize most folks don't have access to free or cheap machine work.
Last edited by cdoublejj; 04-30-2017 at 10:33 PM.
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