2k1 motor in my 99, what else do i need
04-21-2005, 02:43 PM
#41
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Usually they will not include the alternator, starter and A/C compressor, they like to sell those separately. But yeah all of those things will swap over.
04-21-2005, 07:00 PM
#42
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
You can't use the DE-K manifold in a 4th gen? Since when? Or are you just trying to get his IM?
You say transfer 99% of things, does that include KS, alternator, starter, etc parts like that?
You say transfer 99% of things, does that include KS, alternator, starter, etc parts like that?
Its a mess where many thing have to be delt with or parts made.
04-21-2005, 07:59 PM
#43
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), exc. Calif
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), Calif
What's the difference? I'm guessing, just guessing, that is has to do with California Emmisions standards? (Wild guess)
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), Calif
What's the difference? I'm guessing, just guessing, that is has to do with California Emmisions standards? (Wild guess)
04-22-2005, 05:35 PM
#44
Originally Posted by IKolodiychik
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), exc. Calif
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), Calif
What's the difference? I'm guessing, just guessing, that is has to do with California Emmisions standards? (Wild guess)
(VQ30DE, VIN "C", 4th digit), Calif
What's the difference? I'm guessing, just guessing, that is has to do with California Emmisions standards? (Wild guess)
04-22-2005, 06:05 PM
#45
I'm not sure i'm going that route. A few of my buddies that work with cars, albeit body's, said that the wiring won't match. So i'm a bit skeptical. Maybe you are over looking something. But what the Cali thing mean anyway?
04-23-2005, 02:38 PM
#48
Originally Posted by IKolodiychik
Well I think i'm going to go with a 99 VQ30DE. I just want a plug and play period.
and i know the wiring WILL NOT WORK thats why i said you have to swap your sensors on to the 00 engine. thats not hard for a decent mechanic if you have a 97 and you get a 99 i think things wont 100% match with that either .
04-23-2005, 04:43 PM
#50
Well i'm not paying a mechanic. Heck no. They rape you in terms of prices. If I can do it myself (just swapping 97 for lets say a 97 or 98) then I will. I'm trying to minimize downtown and mechanics.
07-10-2005, 07:23 AM
#51
I just hydrolocked my engine, I got the water out but I think a valve is bent. Im going to replaced the motor, it has 105k miles anyway but Im not sure which route I want to go. I do not have the time to do a 3.5 swap, replacing it with the 3.0 timing chain cover, cams etc. will be too much work. The VQ30DE-K seems to be a lot easier to do. I have read in this thread that the DE-K VI will not work, but why does it work when the DE-K VI is on a VQ30DE? Can someone clear this up for me? Thanks.
07-10-2005, 04:45 PM
#52
Originally Posted by JeEvE
I just hydrolocked my engine, I got the water out but I think a valve is bent. Im going to replaced the motor, it has 105k miles anyway but Im not sure which route I want to go. I do not have the time to do a 3.5 swap, replacing it with the 3.0 timing chain cover, cams etc. will be too much work. The VQ30DE-K seems to be a lot easier to do. I have read in this thread that the DE-K VI will not work, but why does it work when the DE-K VI is on a VQ30DE? Can someone clear this up for me? Thanks.
07-10-2005, 11:43 PM
#53
I probably will go with the DE-K swap, the 3.5 will be difficult and I need my car ASAP, I started up the car today and after a little while a rod went though my oil pan. Do you know what exactly needs to be done for the DE-K swap? I just need to know what im getting myself into. Thanks.
07-11-2005, 03:26 PM
#54
Can anyone say what needs to be done to swap an entire VQ30DE-K in a 4th gen? If I cant get enough info then I guess I will have to just replace with a low mileage VQ30DE. Any help is greatly appeciated. Thanks.
07-11-2005, 03:37 PM
#55
I would like to know myself, debating between this and a VQ35 swap. From what I've been reading a lot from this day the DE-K swap is pretty much a drop in, swap sensors, rpm switch for VI, a VACF http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....01#post4146101 good as a rpm switch and for tuning. Some tuning on a dyno and you'll be set. I'm sure there is much more to it than that, but in a small nut shell I believe that is it, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
07-12-2005, 12:40 PM
#56
Oh man how I take it back. After doing much more reading you can swap the vq35 for far cheaper that I originally thought. If you have blown engine and need to get it back up and running soon then yes go with the DE-K or just a DE. BUt if you have some time and patience and since your swapping a new motor in, might as well go the mile. I didnt know till about 20 mins ago but you can use you 5 speed tranny with the VQ35, so you wont have to buy another tranny or axles.
for the 35 swap, just read around a make a massive list of all that will need to be done in order to get up and running fast, this will decrease the amount of down time you'll have.
for the 35 swap, just read around a make a massive list of all that will need to be done in order to get up and running fast, this will decrease the amount of down time you'll have.
02-15-2009, 08:52 AM
#58
If your worried about reliability a 3.5 swapped vehicle will be more reliable than a S/C DE-k...
but to each his own...
02-15-2009, 01:40 PM
#59
yea ive done research, spoke to people who have the 3.5, and they sayng they're adding up to 2qts of oil between oil changes. i'm kinda spoiled in that way 'cause i never had to worry about burning oil issues with the 3.0de, and from ive researched, the de=k is just as reliable, but since i wanted the power, imma just S/C it. one guy at the dyno told me "if you want all motor power, 3.5 is the way, if you dont want the hassel and problems, 3.0"
02-15-2009, 07:19 PM
#61
how many have you spoken to? I have had two swapped 3.5 max's and never had to add any oil period.
But its like nismology said if you beat on a motor like a race car, be expected to fix it as often as race car. So if you have a 3.5 and you beat on it crazy expect something to break or wear faster than normal.
my rpm switch was a VAFC-II, using the vtek cross over for vias activation. I've sold it and looking into EU as a better solution so I can have multiple activation points like the manifold was intended to have
But its like nismology said if you beat on a motor like a race car, be expected to fix it as often as race car. So if you have a 3.5 and you beat on it crazy expect something to break or wear faster than normal.
my rpm switch was a VAFC-II, using the vtek cross over for vias activation. I've sold it and looking into EU as a better solution so I can have multiple activation points like the manifold was intended to have
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