deezo

iTrader: (3)

I checked my codes just to see if all was clear (besides the rear 02 code, which is normal) and saw the knock sensor code. I didn't notice it when I first installed the ECU but the car still runs strong. Is the knock sensor code legit on the 96 auto ECU in a 97 auto?

I figure the knock sensor won't last forever so it might need replacement. I have 176000 on the car.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

KS is not one of the error codes you should get when swapping ECU's. Your KS is prob dead.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Cool............

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Yeah its possible that the KS is bad. With the advanced timing of the ECU it prob doesn't feel like there is power loss, but im willing to bet there is less power there.

If you need help I can change it and also fix that rear o2 code with a o2 simulator circuit. On my car I don't even have a rear o2 sensor anymore, I use a o2 sim from http://www.o2simulator.com/ and two 15 ohm 25 watt resistors in series to trick the ECU heater circuit.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

We'll need to hook up. I'll let you know when I get everything. My hands are probably too big to fit down in that opening anyway.

Am I buying the single output or dual output universal?

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

My hands barely fit into the engine valley and I usually get a scar everytime I change a knock sensor.

You can get either, I got the single output for simplicity. Also I would get two 100 ohm 25 watt resistors or two 25 ohm 25 watt resistors for the heater circuit. I used a pair of 15 ohm 25 watt resistors in series and the project box gets hot after running for a while. I did a search and found that guys are going as high as 50 ohms and the ECU doesn't throw a heater code. The higher resistance we can use the less heat it will put out.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Trust me, when the KS is dead you feel it, whether you have an aftermarket ECU or not.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Hell, I didn't even even know it until I checked the codes. The bar still pulls hard with the TS ECU.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Deezo, I would help you install if we lived closer, the KS change was not tooooo bad for me.

Dman832

iTrader: (1)

I just got a 96 auto ecu for my 97 auto. I have yet to get the ecu upgraded...probably gonna go JWT since I have a MEVI. I drove around just to make sure the ecu works, and after a day, I got 2 codes...KS code and rear O2 sensor code. I know I don't have a bad KS because there are no codes when I use the 97 ecu. I would definately like to get rid of the rear O2 code also, but if the KS code is still gonna be there, I don' tsee the point in using the sim circuit.

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

You can also buy a '96 rear o2 sensor and rewire it to work on a '97~'98 harness as well. But I think its easier and cheaper to just buy the simulator
and wire it up to make the '96 ECU think the rear o2 is present. This will require moving a wire from pin 107 to pin 105 on the ECU main harness and adding a ground wire to pin 112. (Credit: ENG92)

I think if Deezo wants to go thru with this his car will be the first to have a '96 ECU in a '97~'98 using a o2 sim. Since the '96 and '97 rear o2s are so different mechanically and electrically the simulator is an easier soultion IMO.

Dman832

iTrader: (1)

thanks, I will let you know if the ks code goes away if I get mine working

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

You know, it's funny.. I've got a 96 ECU in my 98 and I moved pin 107 to 105 and added a ground line on 112 and I've never gotten an O2 code at all. Still my 4-wire zirconia sensor in place, no O2 sim or resistors or anything, yet never one rear O2 code. I expected to get one but hey, don't look a gift horse in the mouth right? hehe

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Hmmmnnn...I've got a friend with a '97 turbo'd that might be interested in that.

Has anyone else done this without a code? Do you have any codes/CEL?

abci30

iTrader: (11)

i have a 96 ecu in my 98 at first there was no codes at all and now there is a code for the o2 and egr malfuction. when i put my stock ecu in there are no codes at all. Wierd