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Nees some help w/ custom VQ swap, cranks but won't start

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #121  
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Hah cool. I use a hockey stick for hood prop.
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 08:50 AM
  #122  
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Glad to hear that it doesn't vibrate much, was a little concerned about mine.

allen
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:43 AM
  #123  
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V6's are inherantly well balanced. Allen I told you this I think but I'll say it again. My buddy did some solid tranny mounts on his 318 and that thing rattled like hell. The whole car vibrated and sounded like he had exhaust. It was unbearable but thats because it was a 4.
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:51 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Broaner
V6's are inherantly well balanced. Allen I told you this I think but I'll say it again. My buddy did some solid tranny mounts on his 318 and that thing rattled like hell. The whole car vibrated and sounded like he had exhaust. It was unbearable but thats because it was a 4.
You have it backwards. V6's are inherantly unbalanced as are 4 bangers. Straight sixes and V8's are inherantly balanced. The only reason V6's are made instead of a straight 6 is that a V6 fits nicely under the hood whereas a straight 6 needs a long hood and RWD only.

60° V6's are the worst culprits, that's one of the things that make the VQ quite amazing is that it is a 60° V6 and smooth as butter.
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 10:18 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by foobeca
You have it backwards. V6's are inherantly unbalanced as are 4 bangers. Straight sixes and V8's are inherantly balanced. The only reason V6's are made instead of a straight 6 is that a V6 fits nicely under the hood whereas a straight 6 needs a long hood and RWD only.

60° V6's are the worst culprits, that's one of the things that make the VQ quite amazing is that it is a 60° V6 and smooth as butter.
V6's are definitely not the smoothest configuration. One of the main reasons the VQ30 is so smooth is it's super-short stroke and high rod-to-stroke ratio. The long rod and short stroke makes for less lateral movement by the piston. This is why the 3.5 isn't quite as smooth.
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 10:35 AM
  #126  
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My bad. It was just obvious that the vibration was basically non-existent. Whatever the theory, nobody would have a problem solid mounting these.

I have one question though. If I6's are smooth why do they need big crank dampners?

Originally Posted by foobeca
The only reason V6's are made instead of a straight 6 is that a V6 fits nicely under the hood whereas a straight 6 needs a long hood and RWD only.
Yet mine doesn't fit. LOL. The s13 engine bay must be much smaller and more shallow than the s14. Everything just seems to fit better into allens car.
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 12:29 PM
  #127  
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The straight 6 cranks are longer and twist more than a V6. The ballancer helps cut down on torsional stresses.
Tim
Old Sep 13, 2005 | 02:47 PM
  #128  
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Got it. Thanks.
Old Sep 25, 2005 | 07:22 PM
  #129  
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Got it running real nicely now besides some slight overheating issues. I've driven it for about 20 miles and I've been loving every minute of it. This thing seriously hauls @ss and I recomend everyone do this to their 240's rather than the overrated SR swap.

Last night I actually took it out for some racing. Despite the rediculously small 195 tires I still laid the smack down on numerous vehicles. Actually I ended up seriously raping an S14 on a 50 shot. Right now I have no tach so I've just been launching off idle and shifting when I think its about right. So first and second were fairly even. I went to third and started to pull hard. i heard him hit it but it was usless. I took it to the top of fourth and him the middle. I was at least 6 lengths ahead and still stomping. Dude proceeded to tell me over and over agin, "That thing is fast yo!"
Old Sep 25, 2005 | 07:24 PM
  #130  
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AWESOME MAN! now time for some vids and pics
Old Sep 25, 2005 | 07:56 PM
  #131  
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That's great to hear, I wish I could take a ride! Does the gearing issue seem to be a problem in normal driving? How about driving w/o power steering?

I'm still plunking away at mine. Depending on how much time I can get I intend to get it on the road for a quick test drive this week (w/o exhaust). I've been rewiring the whole front end, no fuses or relays under the hood and all unnecessary wires removed. Looks sick.

You got a track in your area?

allen
Old Sep 26, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #132  
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Nismo, if I go to the track my buddy Tyler(Tyrexx) will def be tagging with the camera.

If I can figure out the overheating issue I'll definitely be going to Great Lakes Dragway Saturday. I tried the old radiator cap off the 240 rad to eliminate that possibility. Still does the same stuff. Tomorrow I'm going to try one more cap and then give in and get a new T-stat from the dealer.

As for the PS, I haven't had a car with it in over a year so its no biggy for me. My Max didn't have it, my fiat didn't come with it and I cut the belt for the 240 about 10 seconds after I signed the title. Its definitely not a problem.

I haven't done much "Normal driving" yet so I can't tell you what the gearing is truely like. Also I have no tach so I really can't tell you how high in 6th I am at 60 or 70. I will tell you though that first is certainly annoyingly short. Second is in between a normal 1st and 2nd. 3rd is my best gear right now. In that race with that S14 we were very even in first and second because I was shifting blindly. But third is fxcking neck snapping. I seriously pulled like he wasn't moving. I know 3rd on the KA tranny is much longer than mine but... For example; we both went into 3rd at the same time. A fraction of a second after the shift he hit the juice. Even so, I was at the top of 4th and ahead by like a football field by the time he was at the top of 3rd. It was rediculous. The reason this car is fast right now is the gearing. I mean think about it. If this dude was running a KA-D Correct me if I'm wrong but he was making roughly 160-170HPflywheel/(TQ ?) with the mods he had(Intake, Header, Pullies, Exhaust)+ weight reduction. Then he was spraying a 50 shot. So that puts him somewhere between 210-220. That is roughly the power my motor should be making right now. Its all the gearing. I wouldn't be suprised if I'm in the middle to top of 5th crossing the 1/4 mile finish line right now.

I definitely don't plan to keep it that way though. Its definitely a 255/40 or 255/45 rear tire for me in the spring and an ECU with a 7K rev limit. That should extend every gear at least 10% and that will be very significant. Then is boost time. Hehe....
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 07:52 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Broaner
As for the PS, I haven't had a car with it in over a year so its no biggy for me. My Max didn't have it, my fiat didn't come with it and I cut the belt for the 240 about 10 seconds after I signed the title. Its definitely not a problem.
Have you considered completely removing the PS system altogether? Manual steering is much easier to deal with than PS with the belt removed since you still have to move all that fluid around.
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 06:28 PM
  #134  
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I wonder if you're getting full use out of 1st and 2nd gears without visually seeing the tach. Still, that is just sick. Can I buy you're car when it's all finished up? Make me one? lol
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 06:32 PM
  #135  
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You guys should use the 350z headers since its now RWD.
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 08:08 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
You guys should use the 350z headers since its now RWD.
I believe they are. At least Broan is.
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by slimer
I believe they are. At least Broan is.

Oops. The SSAutochrome headers are nice. They are SS and guarenteed not to crank for under300 bucks.
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 08:48 PM
  #138  
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I'm definitely getting full use of first as I often bounce off the limiter. I'm probably short shifting second a hair. And yes, you may certainly buy my car when I'm done. Right now I'd ask $8K and it looks like a complete ****. In a year I'm gonna want $17K+. I'd be glad to build you one for like $4K+parts.

Nismology, the system is completely removed. Its blocked crimped and welded at the rack. I left one line open though so I could fill it up if somehow it ever drained out. I keep fluid in the rack because it makes it much more fluid motion and prevents rust. I have been toying with the idea of getting a whole new rack a pinion that has a different ratio and is designed with no power steering. Thats certainly not a top priority though.

Kevlo, def using the stock Z headers. Using the FWD manifolds would point the exhaust directly at the crossmember. And most of the aftermarket headers won't work because they curve out so much. For me they wouldn't work because of the steering rack. I already only have about 2mm of clearance and thats because I ground the ***** down.
Old Sep 27, 2005 | 10:16 PM
  #139  
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Very VERY nice job both of you. That is a huge accomplishment for you both to transplant a FWD motor into a RWD car and have it run exceptionally. Congrats to both of you. The idea of a VQ in a 240sx is so...tempting...
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 06:54 PM
  #140  
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Hey broaner I think I'd want the built car to be a S14 instead, do you think you could do that too? I figure it shouldnt be that hard and very similar if not identical to the s13
Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:49 PM
  #141  
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Well done Boaner indeed you guys wit these great fu*$&en ideas (4.5 gens, 240sx vqed makes me proud to drive a Nissan.
Old Sep 29, 2005 | 07:05 AM
  #142  
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Broaner. If your going to the track saturday would you consider Byron Dragway down by Rockford. I am going saturday for sure. I can go to GLD too, I would like to see your car run.
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 12:37 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
You guys should use the 350z headers since its now RWD.

I intend to turbocharge my setup so I didn't want to waste the money on the RWD aftermarket headers since I could see any good way to incorporate them into a turbo setup. I'll likely just build a couple forward facing headers and a "Y" pipe to connect those to a T3 or T4 type flange when the time comes.

I'm considering the idea of making a mount kit available, had a request. That would make it easier for anyone in the future.

allen
Old Oct 2, 2005 | 09:31 AM
  #144  
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Sorry Mike, I couldn't make it. Its still overheating. I've been moving for the past week so I've had no time to do anything except drive it up to my new place. Oh and on the way I spanked a slightly modded turbo supra.

Thanks playboy. Nice SN too.
Old Oct 2, 2005 | 11:21 AM
  #145  
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wow maybe in a few weeks we can all work out a day at byron. ive been meaning to go, but havent had the time. id love to see that baby lol!
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 02:58 AM
  #146  
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I'm having similar problems getting a 98 motor to run in a 96 Maxima. I have fuel and erratic spark, timing is way off. Consistently getting code 0407. Everything checks ok, grounds, harness, sensor resistance. New engine was stripped down to long block, all parts were swapped from 96 engine. Is there something about swapping these years that I'm missing? I'm out of ideas.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. You guys seem to know what you're talkin about.....

Jon
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 08:03 PM
  #147  
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"all parts were swapped from 96 engine"

Well, if all part were swapped over including all sensors,wiring and computer then it has to be something you did on accident. A broken wire, loose connection, missed ground, etc. Grab the FSM and start testing. It's a pain in the **** but all major systems can be tested in a few of hours w/ a multimeter and the FSM.

Timing being "way off" tells me it's probably one of the crank sensors.

allen
Old Oct 9, 2005 | 04:11 AM
  #148  
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Thanks Allen, All the troubleshooting that I have done to date is with my multimeter. The FSM I'm guessin is the handheld tester for the electronics. I don't have one, have never used one. Who makes the good ones and where are they available?
I started a new thread on this problem (new member, had to hit 15 posts first!!). I would appreciate it if you could take a look and see if anything jumps out.

Jon
Old Oct 9, 2005 | 09:28 AM
  #149  
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FSM is a factory service manual.... the few thousand page manual that details every system in the car.
Old Oct 9, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #150  
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you can download the FSM here:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...sm/a32-for.pdf
Old Oct 9, 2005 | 10:47 PM
  #151  
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Careful guys you aren't supposed to go posting those things you can get banned for it lol.
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Careful guys you aren't supposed to go posting those things you can get banned for it lol.
Post "edited".....
Old Oct 10, 2005 | 09:20 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by maxman12
I'm having similar problems getting a 98 motor to run in a 96 Maxima. I have fuel and erratic spark, timing is way off. Consistently getting code 0407. Everything checks ok, grounds, harness, sensor resistance. New engine was stripped down to long block, all parts were swapped from 96 engine. Is there something about swapping these years that I'm missing? I'm out of ideas.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. You guys seem to know what you're talkin about.....

Jon
Jon,

When I performed my swap 97 motor into a 95, I literally had to swap the entire harness for the car, as the wiring was completely different. Is your motor running at all?...if not...u say you're getting spark....how do you know?

-=nupe=-
Old Oct 11, 2005 | 01:47 PM
  #154  
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Check this for more troubleshooting details.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...=#Post68012430

If you can't figure it out then start PM'ing me or posting on here and asking more specific questions. Right now its a shot in the dark. What is a 47?
Old Oct 11, 2005 | 02:00 PM
  #155  
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Harness stayed in the car, I swapped all the sensors and stuff off the old motor. All the electronics/electrics were stripped off the new engine so the harness fit everything. It should work.......
I know I have spark because I removed a plug and grounded it to the engine and turned the engine over, the spark was there but didnt look too healthy. It was a pisspoor test, I should do it over but I have since learned that this can damage the ECM. I have started a thread with my tale, take a look and see if anything comes to mind......
Jon
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 03:32 PM
  #156  
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Link to thread?

The true night of maiden racing for my 240 was last night. I spanked an EVO! It was stock but I won. Its an 05 Evo. If it were the MR I'd be really happy but I'm still very happy anyway. The first race I won by a length and a half. The second I lost by nearly a length. Then on the third run the guy had his buddy drive. This dude is a d@mn AWD master. He beat me by two lengths. This is all without a tach. I was very happy. And since stock EVO's are in the mid 13's I think it proves my estimates that my VQ 240 is a low 14 second maybe high 13 second car. Vids to come. My buddy just has to get them all uploaded and edited.

Most of the problems are solved besides the fact that its still rediculously loud.
Old Oct 25, 2005 | 10:17 AM
  #157  
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Vids are up. The first one is the vid of the main events of the night.

http://www.uploadhut.com/upload/370756.wmv??

The second is the second is the full length vid.

http://www.tyrexx.com/Maxima/S-Video001.mpg
Old Oct 25, 2005 | 02:16 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Broaner
Vids are up. The first one is the vid of the main events of the night.

http://www.uploadhut.com/upload/370756.wmv??

The second is the second is the full length vid.

http://www.tyrexx.com/Maxima/S-Video001.mpg
Good videos... How close were you and the EVO?
Old Oct 25, 2005 | 05:39 PM
  #159  
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Shoulda made the long video a little shorter, too much BS talk from the camera car.

What kinda exhausts do you run ? That Maxima sounded terrible- video car. In the last video- was that a Contour ? Kinda hard to tell what kinda car was the 3rd one.
Old Oct 25, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #160  
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Broaner,
I need some help man, what did your cooling issue turn out to be? Mine's overheating too and it doesn't appear that the thermostat is ever opening.

I've got the hose from the front of the motor going to the bottom of my rad and the hose from the back going to the top of the rad.

thanks in advance,
allen



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