Full DE-K motor swap complete!
08-14-2005, 07:12 AM
#42
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
so if u did this swap with a 2000ecu and engine wiring harnes everything would work? i wonder if the 5th gen ecu has different timing to help it gain some of that extra power along wit the vi
It would have the adjusted fuel maps so we would not run rich.
You ever get your KS fixed?
08-14-2005, 11:37 AM
#43
Many people are asking what needs to be done to swap in the motor. Ill list everything I can think of.
-splice A33 injector plugs into A32 harness
-extend A32 TPS plug to reach A33 throttle body to reach
-remove A33 IACV and fab cover plate under throttle body
-plug swirl valve vac (if calli)
-plug throttle body coolant lines
-mount EVAP on DE-K manifold and hook up vac
-swaped over the EGR, MAP, EVAP solenoids and run correct vac lines
-plug any other open VAC sources on A33 manifold
-use A32 exhaust manifolds and EGR setup w/ A33 guide tube
-splice A33 injector plugs into A32 harness
-extend A32 TPS plug to reach A33 throttle body to reach
-remove A33 IACV and fab cover plate under throttle body
-plug swirl valve vac (if calli)
-plug throttle body coolant lines
-mount EVAP on DE-K manifold and hook up vac
-swaped over the EGR, MAP, EVAP solenoids and run correct vac lines
-plug any other open VAC sources on A33 manifold
-use A32 exhaust manifolds and EGR setup w/ A33 guide tube
08-14-2005, 12:10 PM
#44
Originally Posted by JeEvE
The reason for not going with the 3.5 is because I wanted to do the swap on my own and it probably would just be too difficult for me to do, also, I needed a running car asap. This was my first motor swap and im surprised that everything seems to be okay. Maybe later I will do a 3.5 but plans now is to put the nitrous back in and maybe get a blower 
Yes its a 5psd, new Spec Stage II clutch
Yes its a 5psd, new Spec Stage II clutch
I have the same engine swap and clutch as you do. Therefore, I like your car Oh, and we're both running nitrous. You have a JWT ECU or stock?
08-14-2005, 07:24 PM
#48
YES! Im so happy, fixed my problems. It ended up being the ground on the engine harness for the crank/cam sensors. It runs perfectly now, even without the IACV but I still plan to fab something for that.
08-15-2005, 06:06 AM
#52
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I don't think you can get the engine out the top with the trans still attached. Maybe you can but it'd be close. I removed the trans. Trans removal takes all of an hour or so.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Nice work on the swap. It never even occurred to me to swap in a DE-K when I did my new engine until like literally a few minutes after I had purchased the DE... then I was like WTF did I do that for?! Good job swappin, and the streetside engine pull is awesome haha.
Maxima with Hydro-locked motor = $0
DE-K Motor with 7K = $550
Swapping the motor curbside, while your neighbors stare = PRICELESS!!!
*Things that make life more bearable*
08-15-2005, 07:47 AM
#53
Excellent Job with the swap. Glad its all up and running. Thanks for posting pics and something needed to be done inorder to get it all working.
Extra credit for the street side engine swap FOR YOUR FIRST TRY!
Extra Credit for the $550 7K motor.
Extra credit for the street side engine swap FOR YOUR FIRST TRY!
Extra Credit for the $550 7K motor.
08-15-2005, 07:47 AM
#54
Originally Posted by nupe500
You sure can...with both autos and manuals...did that with my swap
Maxima with Hydro-locked motor = $0
DE-K Motor with 7K = $550
Swapping the motor curbside, while your neighbors stare = PRICELESS!!!
*Things that make life more bearable*
Maxima with Hydro-locked motor = $0
DE-K Motor with 7K = $550
Swapping the motor curbside, while your neighbors stare = PRICELESS!!!
*Things that make life more bearable*
A couple of years ago I did an engine swap the day my next door neighbors moved in, so for a day they had to look at my 92 Explorer in my driveway with an engine dangling from a hoist and parts scattered over the driveway. He told me later they really had buyer's remorse for a while. They bought the house thinking they were moving into a nice neighborhood.
I didn't think it was possible to find a lower mileage DE-K than the one I found! Lucky bastard!
08-15-2005, 12:49 PM
#58
I am planning to wire up my Summit RPM switch soon and just had a few questions. Seems very simple but im not too sure how to power the solenoids in the VI to open it up. There is two plugs on the VI with two vacuum barbs. The first vacuum barb needs vacuum and the black plug with the yellow wire/green strip uses the yellow wire from the RPM switch to receive the ground at the correct RPM. Which wire receives the power?, is the other brown plug even needed? If someone can help me out with this, that would be great. Thanks.
08-21-2005, 05:26 PM
#60
I wired up the Summit RPM switch but im not sure if the VI is actually opening. I have it set to open at 3k now just to test if it is working. I am using a vacuum source from above the throttle body and the green LED is lighting up on the switch. Is there any way to tell if the VI is opening. I tried to listen for the solenoid to click or something but I didnt hear anything.
08-22-2005, 06:17 AM
#61
Originally Posted by JeEvE
I wired up the Summit RPM switch but im not sure if the VI is actually opening. I have it set to open at 3k now just to test if it is working. I am using a vacuum source from above the throttle body and the green LED is lighting up on the switch. Is there any way to tell if the VI is opening. I tried to listen for the solenoid to click or something but I didnt hear anything.
08-22-2005, 09:15 PM
#62
Thanks deezo... 
Didnt know that I could see it externally. For some reason my solenoid wasnt working, no clicking or nothing. I took off the entire variable part so see if everything else was okay. The cup seems to be very stiff, should have just JB welded it now so I dont have to deal with it later. I gave power to the solenoid after I removed it and it just started working. I put it all back and everything is fine now, dont know what was up with the solenoid but it is working now.
Didnt know that I could see it externally. For some reason my solenoid wasnt working, no clicking or nothing. I took off the entire variable part so see if everything else was okay. The cup seems to be very stiff, should have just JB welded it now so I dont have to deal with it later. I gave power to the solenoid after I removed it and it just started working. I put it all back and everything is fine now, dont know what was up with the solenoid but it is working now.
08-22-2005, 09:31 PM
#63
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Thanks deezo... Didnt know that I could see it externally. For some reason my solenoid wasnt working, no clicking or nothing. I took off the entire variable part so see if everything else was okay. The cup seems to be very stiff, should have just JB welded it now so I dont have to deal with it later. I gave power to the solenoid after I removed it and it just started working. I put it all back and everything is fine now, dont know what was up with the solenoid but it is working now.
Didnt know that I could see it externally. For some reason my solenoid wasnt working, no clicking or nothing. I took off the entire variable part so see if everything else was okay. The cup seems to be very stiff, should have just JB welded it now so I dont have to deal with it later. I gave power to the solenoid after I removed it and it just started working. I put it all back and everything is fine now, dont know what was up with the solenoid but it is working now.
08-22-2005, 09:46 PM
#64
It feels very smooth but its hard to tell how quick it really is. I guess I will have to take it to the track and see, honestly it doesnt really feel a lot faster then before but its been a while since I last drove the car.
05-17-2006, 07:10 PM
#69
Plugs are still in the engine bay, I made an IACV adapter so I plan to put it in. I have a high idle right now without it so Im going to put it in after I tap a hole into the intake manifold.
11-20-2011, 09:05 PM
#74
Got the motor at Sawmill Auto in Yonkers, NY. I'm sure DEKs go for cheaper now but finding one with that mileage I had is probably impossible.
The motor has served me well btw. Has about 90k on it, 20k on spray and 70k on boost. Recently I blew a heater core hose and maybe overheated it so now in higher boost it bleeds some boost through the headgasket somewhere into the coolant. No smoking or oil/coolant mixing so it still runs good. Time for HR headgaskets/bolts
11-20-2011, 09:24 PM
#75
Got the motor at Sawmill Auto in Yonkers, NY. I'm sure DEKs go for cheaper now but finding one with that mileage I had is probably impossible.
The motor has served me well btw. Has about 90k on it, 20k on spray and 70k on boost. Recently I blew a heater core hose and maybe overheated it so now in higher boost it bleeds some boost through the headgasket somewhere into the coolant. No smoking or oil/coolant mixing so it still runs good. Time for HR headgaskets/bolts
I also have picked up a DE-K with 40k for $250 at a junkyard in Portland, OR.
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