drilling cams
drilling cams
I'm getting ready to do the swap next week.A few things I was wondering,could I just drill the intake cam gear itself instead of the cam?and has anyone solved the high idle problem?If so how?I couldn't find this info anywhere on the web.I no tilley figured it out, but i could find out how.Well I think thats it thanks for the help in advance.
If you or anyone is planning a swap of any nature (5MT/3.5L) by all means one of the best, if not THE best thing you could do to help yourself out is DONATE in order to search much more effeciently.
I will donate one of these days.So, answer this if I donate will I find the answer I am looking for?nismo if I have todrill the cams I will,But I was thinking.What if I wanted to get aftermarket cams in?I would have to redrill them,but if drill the intake cam gears i wouldn't making it easier.Is there any facts behind why I can't do that?
I read that a couple of times.It's basically saying why I need to use the dowel pins.What im wondering is this.Is it possible to line both engines up at tdc.mark where to drill on the cam gears,so that its in the same position on the vq35 as it was on the vq30.I checked to see if this would work in both fsm and it seemed like it would(theoritcally).could I do it like that?
Now that I think about it there a couple of threads saying that.I'll Look into that.On the otherhand, Nmex I still don't see how it answers why or why not drilling the cam gears instead of the cams is any different.I know i need a spacer if thats what your getting at.I also know why I need the dowel pin. Or could it be by drilling the cams your moving the cam itself,therefore having an effect on the intake settings in also having correct cam signals.Just drilling the cam gears all I'm doing is relocating the vq30 gears to tdc on the vq35.Therefore not moving the cam itself.Im pretty sure this makes no sense whatsoever.I'm tired and going to sleep.Once I wake maybe it will make much more sense.
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