VQ30 auto possible to hit the 14s with boltons?
#1
VQ30 auto possible to hit the 14s with boltons?
Is it possible to get into the 14s on a 2000 auto maxima without having to resort to forced induction or spraying? If so what parts would you recommend to get into the 14s, thx. O yea and this is all with stock rims.
#2
Stock 16's or 17's? And probly, from what ive heard, change the y-pipe and intake(GAB is the best for the money) and b-pipe, shouldnt be too hard. im not sure on actual gains though, ive heard a y-pipe adds 15 HP at the crank on the 3.0, dunno if thats true or not, what are the actual HP gains from freeer-flowing exhaust?
#3
The largest gains are from the ypipe. Probably do ypipe back and a CAI and manually shift that puppy lol! heres what you should run stock: http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=289125
#4
Wow if that is all then I am not too worried. I was thinking of getting i/h/e and an underdrive pulley and I was thinking of an ecu too. Where do you think these would put me in 1/4 mile times with manual shifting? I was thinking it would take me all of those mods to break into the 14s. I read the thread about typical 1/4 mile times for the 5th gen but it is hard to gauge how much each mod improves your quartermile and how much manual shifting affects it as well.
#5
well the i/h/e all work well together. Headers are pretty pricey though. With the 00vi you continue to make power at redline, so you most definetely will benefit from an ecu w/ extended rev limit. If you just want to do 14s at the track basic bolt ons, i/h/e, along with weight reduction, no passenger, spare, 1/4 tank of gas, no back seat, get the idea?, should get you there no problem. If you wanna do 14s in full street trim thats another thing.
check this out: http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=462482 hes a manual so figure you will do half a second slower??
check this out: http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=462482 hes a manual so figure you will do half a second slower??
#7
Not at Firebird and on street tires...
Headers would be a must along with perfect weather and driving, but I don't think it is possible.
Here is a AE that used to run at Firebird, which even has the LSD and most of the bolt-ons and the best he got was a 15.4x:
http://www.desertpearlmax.homestead....amodspage.html
Just for comparison, I had a POP charger and I ran a 15.5 my first night there with crappy launching, short shifting, and stock Potenzas. I think the auto is holding you back. Try the drop resistor mod and maybe a VB mod while the weather is cool.
Headers would be a must along with perfect weather and driving, but I don't think it is possible.
Here is a AE that used to run at Firebird, which even has the LSD and most of the bolt-ons and the best he got was a 15.4x:
http://www.desertpearlmax.homestead....amodspage.html
Just for comparison, I had a POP charger and I ran a 15.5 my first night there with crappy launching, short shifting, and stock Potenzas. I think the auto is holding you back. Try the drop resistor mod and maybe a VB mod while the weather is cool.
#8
Anything's possible with the right amount of $$.
Find where to get the most power, consolidate weight, and use the aforementioned attributes to their most effecient potential.. After that you have what you want.
Find where to get the most power, consolidate weight, and use the aforementioned attributes to their most effecient potential.. After that you have what you want.
#10
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Originally Posted by dko
I believe nealoc187 ran 13.91 with all motor and all boltons, intake and full exhaust, MEVI, light wheels, slicks and obviously a few other things. he's 5-spd ofcourse
You are way off.
#11
WootWoot - with a 5th Gen (5.5 or 5.0?) you should have no problem getting into the 14-seconds.
- CAI (better than an intake by itself by far)
- Headers (if you can afford it)
- Y-Pipe (better bang for buck than headers alone)
- High Flow Cat or Test Pipe (Resonator)
- Cat-Back
- JWT ECU (if they make them for 5th gens)
Lowering will allow you to launch faster and without the 'bogging down' that autos tend to get. I've heard that a front traction bar and VLSD won't give more power but will get what you have to the ground much more effectively and you won't waste time or hp spinning off the line.
25PSI Front
40-450PSI Rear
14.9 here you come - oh and weight reduction. 14mm socket wrench for back seats and pass. seat - as well as spare / rear middle seat belts / jack / trunk mat etc...
Love to know what you run when you do.
- CAI (better than an intake by itself by far)
- Headers (if you can afford it)
- Y-Pipe (better bang for buck than headers alone)
- High Flow Cat or Test Pipe (Resonator)
- Cat-Back
- JWT ECU (if they make them for 5th gens)
Lowering will allow you to launch faster and without the 'bogging down' that autos tend to get. I've heard that a front traction bar and VLSD won't give more power but will get what you have to the ground much more effectively and you won't waste time or hp spinning off the line.
25PSI Front
40-450PSI Rear
14.9 here you come - oh and weight reduction. 14mm socket wrench for back seats and pass. seat - as well as spare / rear middle seat belts / jack / trunk mat etc...
Love to know what you run when you do.
#12
Originally Posted by PHAT6
WootWoot - with a 5th Gen (5.5 or 5.0?) you should have no problem getting into the 14-seconds.
.
.
Originally Posted by dko
I believe nealoc187 ran 13.91 with all motor and all boltons
#15
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
This has no validity in this particular thread even if it were true since the original poster stated Auto and has a differnt generation maxima.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....48589#poststop
it was 13.99, not 13.91 as i said.
#16
Originally Posted by dko
![headbang](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
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