Kinetix IM for FWD VQs
#81
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
For those who care:
Dynos from FWD Kinetix
Apparently, that was the middle run of the 3 runs.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=218613
Dynos from FWD Kinetix
Apparently, that was the middle run of the 3 runs.
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=218613
#82
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Why doesn't anyone go to fuel cut when they dyno..
#84
I knew this manifold design was going to miss the mark. Apparently Kinetix just doesn't get it. The FWD lower IM design has two different entry angles and they made an upper that has one angle across the board. Also, why on earth does anyone need a new IM that looks like the old one.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I knew this manifold design was going to miss the mark. Apparently Kinetix just doesn't get it. The FWD lower IM design has two different entry angles and they made an upper that has one angle across the board. Also, why on earth does anyone need a new IM that looks like the old one.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
#90
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (48)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,555
From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Also, why on earth does anyone need a new IM that looks like the old one.
I do wonder what this Kinetix SSV looks like on the inside though....
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
#91
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but for those who have been following read the following posted by manibal in the altimas.net forums:
"Speaking of the GB, Robert has asked alot of questions but has not decided on a approach or details yet.
He has discussed a GB for both the Altimas and Mazimas boards.
Its going so slow....................
As soon as I know, everyone will.
Cheers."
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...ml#post2905585
So it seems like they will sell to us and we won't have to perpatrate like we own an altima.... well for those who are interested. Still would like to see what the final product will do for N/A cars.
Mike
"Speaking of the GB, Robert has asked alot of questions but has not decided on a approach or details yet.
He has discussed a GB for both the Altimas and Mazimas boards.
Its going so slow....................
As soon as I know, everyone will.
Cheers."
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...ml#post2905585
So it seems like they will sell to us and we won't have to perpatrate like we own an altima.... well for those who are interested. Still would like to see what the final product will do for N/A cars.
Mike
#92
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I knew this manifold design was going to miss the mark. Apparently Kinetix just doesn't get it. The FWD lower IM design has two different entry angles and they made an upper that has one angle across the board. Also, why on earth does anyone need a new IM that looks like the old one.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
All they needed to do was use the Z33 IM they already made, cut the elbow off and use a straight pipe for the TB, bolt it onto a Z33 lower and call it a day.
My ECU started throwing P1800 codes after I got it back from TS, so I wonder if they have a place to mount the VAIS solenoid to avoid that.
This original IM was garbage, the Tq curve proved that. Which is the reason why this thread died. Great Hype & NO gains. NOW they redesigned it and show an inconsistent dyno run, and the only believable run made 16HP @ 4000rpm. 4000!??! an RPM you're engine will only see ONCE in a race condition. Obviously these guys know nothing about our shift points or engine dynamics... See for yourself Link
I'm not one to put down any performance mod, heck any mod, but these guys don't provide consistent dyno info, they have poor R&D, and their gains are unusable in a real world race condition. Also note the scale of the N/A run, dyno curves almost look impressive until you see the scale and realize they're only 5 & 10hp differences. Looks like another product rushed to market to make money, not to serve a purpose.
So now in the end, They redesigned it, put the title "SSV" on the side and they're now charging $820+ shipped!?! about $819.98 too much
but that's my .02
Kinetix
#93
Originally Posted by Buck96
Listen to him
This original IM was garbage, the Tq curve proved that. Which is the reason why this thread died. Great Hype & NO gains. NOW they redesigned it and show an inconsistent dyno run, and the only believable run made 16HP @ 4000rpm. 4000!??! an RPM you're engine will only see ONCE in a race condition. Obviously these guys know nothing about our shift points or engine dynamics... See for yourself Link
I'm not one to put down any performance mod, heck any mod, but these guys don't provide consistent dyno info, they have poor R&D, and their gains are unusable in a real world race condition. Also note the scale of the N/A run, dyno curves almost look impressive until you see the scale and realize they're only 5 & 10hp differences. Looks like another product rushed to market to make money, not to serve a purpose.
So now in the end, They redesigned it, put the title "SSV" on the side and they're now charging $820+ shipped!?! about $819.98 too much
but that's my .02
Kinetix
This original IM was garbage, the Tq curve proved that. Which is the reason why this thread died. Great Hype & NO gains. NOW they redesigned it and show an inconsistent dyno run, and the only believable run made 16HP @ 4000rpm. 4000!??! an RPM you're engine will only see ONCE in a race condition. Obviously these guys know nothing about our shift points or engine dynamics... See for yourself Link
I'm not one to put down any performance mod, heck any mod, but these guys don't provide consistent dyno info, they have poor R&D, and their gains are unusable in a real world race condition. Also note the scale of the N/A run, dyno curves almost look impressive until you see the scale and realize they're only 5 & 10hp differences. Looks like another product rushed to market to make money, not to serve a purpose.
So now in the end, They redesigned it, put the title "SSV" on the side and they're now charging $820+ shipped!?! about $819.98 too much
but that's my .02
Kinetix
Puppet, Steve and myself had been following those threads for a month or 2 recently, and the numbers are just horrible. I would steer well clear of the altima crew, they are all still interested even though the dyno showed most of the numbers below the curve. Only real gain was at 5750-6000 at 11whp. Those gains are not worth the money, unfortunately the altima guys dont seem to understand this, and dont mind loosing a stack of low-mid tq and hp. But, to each their own. I wouldnt touch the IM with a 10 foot pole.
#96
I hear you guys. Just was letting people know what was going on since its been a while. Didn't say i was purchasing but I just wanted to see what the final product was going to be that they were going to attempt a group deal with. I am really waiting for someone to do a custom manifold here on our forums. People have spoken about it but no one has had time to get the project going. I saw some use the 350Z but the hood clearance was an issue for some. Hope someone comes out with something.
#100
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
For most of us, that curve will probably even more useless than the Kinetix.
Additionally, how is your 350z IM coming along? When are you going to mass produce???...(LOL)
#101
Originally Posted by mforrest100
What is your basis of this? Just want to get an understanding of how one determines if a product will be good without any testing.
Additionally, how is your 350z IM coming along? When are you going to mass produce???...(LOL)
Additionally, how is your 350z IM coming along? When are you going to mass produce???...(LOL)
Z IM is good. Although it is creating a dent in my hood when I go WOT. Mass produce, I don't think it would be too cost effective for me, since I don't have any welding equipment.
Post #3700!
#102
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Z IM is good. Although it is creating a dent in my hood when I go WOT.
#103
Originally Posted by eng92
What engine mounts are you using. I test fit my Z IM and I can close the hood with no contact. I have not yet cut any of the under hood bracing.
There is no contact when the engine is idle, or maybe even part throttle.
I am using original motor mounts. 183k on them. That's probably why..
#105
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Serious? I don't see how.. If you don't cut the elbow, it's physically impossible to shut the hood.
There is no contact when the engine is idle, or maybe even part throttle.
I am using original motor mounts. 183k on them. That's probably why..
There is no contact when the engine is idle, or maybe even part throttle.
I am using original motor mounts. 183k on them. That's probably why..
I am using ES mounts and urethane bushings between the engine x-member and k-frame/rad support.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
#106
Originally Posted by eng92
The elbow is already cut off. I am just fine tuning the shape of the pieces I have going between the tb mount and the plenum before they are welded. The highest point is where the elbow was cut off. I ground the top portion down so the wall thickness was the same as the rest of the section.
I am using ES mounts and urethane bushings between the engine x-member and k-frame/rad support.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
I am using ES mounts and urethane bushings between the engine x-member and k-frame/rad support.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
#107
Originally Posted by eng92
The elbow is already cut off. I am just fine tuning the shape of the pieces I have going between the tb mount and the plenum before they are welded. The highest point is where the elbow was cut off. I ground the top portion down so the wall thickness was the same as the rest of the section.
I am using ES mounts and urethane bushings between the engine x-member and k-frame/rad support.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
I am using ES mounts and urethane bushings between the engine x-member and k-frame/rad support.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
Do you know if the ES mounts lower the engine/tranny at all? Steven88 and I were talking about that.
#108
Originally Posted by eng92
The elbow is already cut off. I am just fine tuning the shape of the pieces I have going between the tb mount and the plenum before they are welded. The highest point is where the elbow was cut off. I ground the top portion down so the wall thickness was the same as the rest of the section.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
I will post up some pics next week once it is all together.
I ground down the top too where that extra material is about an inch or so wide. The biggest problem is that the TB flange is not the same shape as the hole in the plenum. What I plan on doing is building up the bottom of the plenum near the gasket and then cutting it out to get the extra vertical distance. My Son took mine last weekend to get it welded now with the TB flange on a slight angle down.
Actually I am welding the TB flange directly to the plenum nothing in between.
We will have to compare when finished.
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
#109
Originally Posted by Jime
Dave I just finished doing the exact same thing with the plenum. (Great minds think alike, fools seldom differ)
I ground down the top too where that extra material is about an inch or so wide. The biggest problem is that the TB flange is not the same shape as the hole in the plenum. What I plan on doing is building up the bottom of the plenum near the gasket and then cutting it out to get the extra vertical distance. My Son took mine last weekend to get it welded now with the TB flange on a slight angle down.
We will have to compare when finished.
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
I ground down the top too where that extra material is about an inch or so wide. The biggest problem is that the TB flange is not the same shape as the hole in the plenum. What I plan on doing is building up the bottom of the plenum near the gasket and then cutting it out to get the extra vertical distance. My Son took mine last weekend to get it welded now with the TB flange on a slight angle down.
We will have to compare when finished.
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
Post pics when you finish!!!
#110
Originally Posted by Jime
Dave I just finished doing the exact same thing with the plenum. (Great minds think alike, fools seldom differ)
I ground down the top too where that extra material is about an inch or so wide. The biggest problem is that the TB flange is not the same shape as the hole in the plenum. What I plan on doing is building up the bottom of the plenum near the gasket and then cutting it out to get the extra vertical distance. My Son took mine last weekend to get it welded now with the TB flange on a slight angle down.
Actually I am welding the TB flange directly to the plenum nothing in between.
We will have to compare when finished.
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
I ground down the top too where that extra material is about an inch or so wide. The biggest problem is that the TB flange is not the same shape as the hole in the plenum. What I plan on doing is building up the bottom of the plenum near the gasket and then cutting it out to get the extra vertical distance. My Son took mine last weekend to get it welded now with the TB flange on a slight angle down.
Actually I am welding the TB flange directly to the plenum nothing in between.
We will have to compare when finished.
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
#111
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Do you know if the ES mounts lower the engine/tranny at all? Steven88 and I were talking about that.
My front engine and tranny mount are still stock. When I installed my engine, I put the bolts through the ES motor mounts first. The bolts for the other 2 stock mounts slid right through with no prying at all which would not have been the case if the ES mounts had dropped the engine an appreciable amount.
#113
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Jime
I also have a Motordyne 5/16" spacer coming and the MREV-2 mod on the lower plenum.
#115
Originally Posted by mforrest100
What exactly will I need to purchase to get this project going and completed???
Z33 middle plenum
Z33 upper IM
Various aluminum depending on how you want to go about modifying the neck.
Eng92: Nice work!
#116
Originally Posted by maxS
mrev-2 is for rev-up engines that are in the 35th AE 350z and 2006 and up 350z. The lower part of the plenum has shorter runners then the 287hp 350z so when you put the lower part of the plenum on the rev-up engines, there is a difference in hp. The vq35 that we have in our cars are not the rev-up engines. So save yourself the money you are going to spend on the mrev-2 and get the 1/2" spacer like vsamoylov unless there is going to be a hood clearence problem. But that all depends on which way you go with the swap ( cut the elbow and weld or hood scoop)
MREV-2 is not for the rev-up engines. In fact Tony tested it on his 06 and it lost like 20 HP and 25 lbs ft torque after 6000 RPM. Only the original MREV is for the rev-up engines, it consists of a stock 287 lower plenum with a spacer. The MREV-2 is also a modified 287 lower plenum for the 287 engines.
Below is a quote from Tony (Motordyne owner) concering the MREV and that it was originally just a 287 lower with a spacer sold to revup owners.
Actually the best bang for the buck is just the MREV-2 for the non revup engines as cost was only $122, the spacer only added 2 HP and most of the Z guys now are just buying the modified plenum and not the spacer at all.
You need to read this whole thread to understand it fully, its only 660 posts so far.
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181592
MREV = 287 hp motor's collector
MREV+ = 287 hp motor's collector with some modification
MREV V2 = MREV+ with additional modification
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
I've recieved a million requests asking if the MREV can be installed on the 287 HP engine. Unfortunatly I had to turn them all down because the MREV is simply a spacer with a lower plenum from the 287 HP engine. ...So if you have the 287 HP engine, all you need to do is install a spacer and you automatially have a MREV.
But you know of that machining process I have been doing to the MREV+ lower collectors to allow for more air flow?...
Well, I dynod it on a 287 HP engine and it made surprisingly good gains. I may just make the Iso Thermal MREV++ (MREV-2) a machined lower collector without a spacer. Adding a spacer to it will make even more power.
But you know of that machining process I have been doing to the MREV+ lower collectors to allow for more air flow?...
Well, I dynod it on a 287 HP engine and it made surprisingly good gains. I may just make the Iso Thermal MREV++ (MREV-2) a machined lower collector without a spacer. Adding a spacer to it will make even more power.
#117
Originally Posted by eng92
Here is what I came up with for my Z IM. It is held together with duct tape on the inside right now. It will be dropped off at the welding shop tomorrow.
Dave that's beautiful.
#118
From what I understand he said the V2 without the spacer lost lots of peak TQ on the Revup engine. He said that if he had added the spacer then it should increase peak power. But that was yet to be dynoed.
For maximum gains get the V2 with 1/2" Iso Thermal plenum spacer. Modify that sucker to fit and make sure you have a devise to equalize the A/F so that it won't pull timing and gains should be sweet.
Best bang for your buck, get the V2 and your done.
For maximum gains get the V2 with 1/2" Iso Thermal plenum spacer. Modify that sucker to fit and make sure you have a devise to equalize the A/F so that it won't pull timing and gains should be sweet.
Best bang for your buck, get the V2 and your done.
#119
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
From what I understand he said the V2 without the spacer lost lots of peak TQ on the Revup engine. He said that if he had added the spacer then it should increase peak power. But that was yet to be dynoed.
For maximum gains get the V2 with 1/2" Iso Thermal plenum spacer. Modify that sucker to fit and make sure you have a devise to equalize the A/F so that it won't pull timing and gains should be sweet.
Best bang for your buck, get the V2 and your done.
For maximum gains get the V2 with 1/2" Iso Thermal plenum spacer. Modify that sucker to fit and make sure you have a devise to equalize the A/F so that it won't pull timing and gains should be sweet.
Best bang for your buck, get the V2 and your done.
V2 has never been tested with the 1/2" either, so the jury is out on that one as well. Thats why I am getting the 5/16". I actually had the 1/2" and returned it for the 5/16" but mainly for the clearance issues the HP diff is negligible.