mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

I am going to put the Debuloz cams in with a 3.5 motor as someone has seen great results with this setup. See link:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=465133

Well I am thinking about going the extra step and getting the JWT Valve Spring and Shim kit to install with the cams, as I know this is suggested to rev above 7000 with a 3.5 safely as I will be installing a EU with a 7500 rev limit.

Is this a good idea or should I just forget the valve spring and shim kit?

The bigger issue is the person doing my swap states that the valve springs and shims are in a spot in the motor he doesn't have the tools to get to. Where exactly are the valve springs located and what tools are needed to get to them. I might be willing to buy the tools for my friend since I feel better about having this in the motor along with ARP rod bolts for the safety of revving high.

I searched and found in the same thread I have the link to above, that people have there differences about the valve srpings (please read from where chris'max asks if he installed valve springs with the cams)

Just want more opinions.

Thanks for any advice and opinions you may have.

Mike

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

Chris had already called JWT and discussed with them about the valve springs in his 3.5 build. He said there's no need. Also, since you guys can't really up-rev your 3.5 motor beyond 7k rpms (though some have already been doing it), you will not have to worry about getting the valvesprings.

I intend to build my 3.0 to its max limit, as a precaution, I have already installed the valvesprings from jwt. They are double springs with the shims as a kit. I get a very loud ear-peircing intake sound at rev-limit revs from a stock manifold. However, when I run with a MEVI, I just don't have that sound.

Anyways, if you do your valvesprings, you'll need a valvespring compressor to remove your valvesprings. You'll also need a air compressor with a sparkplug adaptor to press air into the chamber to prevent the assembly from falling into the chambers while you turn your shims to remove the assembly. For more details, you should contact Tilley or Stephen Max for the instructions. Manuals have them also, but info is limited on there. I had to call Stephen to help me walk my installs. Good luck.

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

WOW.... Didn't know it was that complicated. Well another thing I notice is that as I searched, everyone says you shouldn't rev the motor that high but I never see an explanation. I only see "You shouldn't rev VQ35's that high."

In another thrad, SR20DEN posted about the ARP rod bolts, people were saying those could help you rev high as well so I will defenitely install those. I just need an explantion on why its not suggested. I hate seeing an answer without a basis for the answer.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

With a bucket style lifter, the valve springs and spring seats are recessed down inside the head.



A lot of the cheap "on the head" spring compressors will not work because they need to hook into the coils of the spring and there is not enough room.

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

It's because the 3.5L's rods would travel faster than the 3.0L's rods. That's why you shouldn't rev the 3.5's that high compared to the 3.0L's. I think the reason is because of the rod length and the rod's architectures. There was a pretty fiery discussion about this a while back. I just dont' have the energy to search for it.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

If I, Tilley and Krissmaxx haven't proven by now that you can safely rev a VQ35 as much as a VQ30, then people are ignorantly refusing to pay attention to the facts. This is a non-issue, especialy if you upgrade the rod bolts.

As for the valve springs, I would use Ferrea or Nismo. The Ferrea springs are a 'rated' little stronger than the JWT. That and I refuse to have any JWT parts on my car unless they're free.

mforrest100

iTrader: (24)

After speaking to my friend, I've decided just to install ARP rod bolts. He doesn't have any of the tools mentioned to do this installation. I wish there was a way I can do it but for the price I am getting on this swap, I won't complain.

But based on your statement SR20DEN, I think that I will be OK. If anything I will just take it to the 7200 rev limit and be done with it. I've already read many threads about you and others going to 7500 and I believe Kris is going to the 8000 mark. I will live.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

anyone have any comments on the idle charachteristics of these knock off cams. They arent an agressive cam so it shouldent be bad but I want my car to start even when its 10 degrees outside... thus I am guessing cams arent for me am I right?


If the answer is yes than that would be too bad because that would be my second performance mod after the headers