This article has a possible solution....

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...silvia_part_2/

 

Thats a great find Icey.

I was thinking I might use an aftermarket fan controller(Only abot $75). Right now I have direct circuit with a switch in the dash. Only one fan speed but thats all ya need as far as I'm concerned. During spirited driving in my Max(with a working T-stat) my fans almost never came on. Thus I'm content keeping it like this for a while once I get my T-stat working correctly again.

 

Also, the EU can operated a relay incase you go that route. Just need to tap the water temp sensor.

 

My 89 doesn't come with air conditioning... at least I haven't seen any condenser, lines or compressor. It has power windows but no A/C

I think I'm going to keep a regular switch until I get the E-U.

Yesterday I bought a cube of dry ice to get rid of the sound deadening. Removed a little over half of it so far. That's for the dry stuff. There's a full garbage bag of some other kind of sound deadening at the firewall/under the carpet. Should be about 25-30 pounds total.

Also, the 350z Oil pan retails for 160cnd and 45cnd for the windage tray directly at the dealership. Already have the pan and am picking up the tray today. Tomorrow it rains so I'll assemble the engine/tranny/clutch/flywheel/wiring harness.

Broaner: When are you getting your car at the track? Just to see what it MPH's?

How good is traction with the stock tires? My bro works at a tire place and he got me two giant 235/70/15 crap all-seasons on stock rims for the rear for 20 bucks each mounted and balanced. It's ugly as hell (They are HUGE) but I absolutely need to cut the 4.08 rear end a little. It'll have to do until I get nitto DR's for everyday use...

 

Traction is horrible on the 205's. Stabbing the throttle anywhere in first and second the @ss would kick like crazy. On occasion I would lose grip for a bit in third. But while turning it would always kick the @ss anywhere from 1st to 4th. Have you looked at my videos? In every launch, burnout and race I started in second. First was unusable with the stock OD'ed tires. And I run the J30 VLSD which is a 3.92. So for you its going to be even more rediculous.

I hope to drive the thing again on Monday or the first weekend in may. I have some half gone 245/45 Kumho's on my SSR's right now. We'll see how traction and gearing is and I'll report back. Hopefully I'll be able to use first now.

I'd like to go to the track sometime mid summer NA. Then I'd like to go again in early october with the blower. I know I'm going to be 13's NA. I'm thinking with light boost and traction low 12's are possible.

Ah, you're doing the dry ice method huh? That tar is such a b!tch. I went the heat gun route. I hate doing it. My trunk and drivers side are done. I have the do the pass side eventually.

The EU keeps getting better and better Icey. I just gotta get a laptop.

 

I tried checking out your videos but none of them work for me.

What is the complete size? 205/xx/15? What total diameter? Mine comes out to be almost 28 inches.

I installed the 350z windage tray on the block cage but looking at the FWD oil pan there is something on the side to drain oil I think. I don't want to close it until I know for sure what it is and what I should use in the Z33 oil pan. I've got the baffle and windage tray allright, but that thing bothers me. Specifically, there are two holes for it in the FWD oil pan while on the Z33 pan there are none.

Well I know the difference between the 3.0 and the 3.5 in the max (just barely dead hooking in 1st vs just barely dead hooking in 2nd) so there's a good chance that it's going to be ugly since my car should weight roughly the same as yours.

I trapped 105 mph at 3050 lbs raceweight. Assuming 230whp/230wtq for the untuned 3.5 that gives us a power to weight ratio of about 13.25. At 2350 that gives us about 10.25. I'm sure there is a rice math calculator to figure out what it's going to trap, especially since I had to just barely shift into 4th with the max and that was hurting me.

So the same engine with better, closer gearing and 700 lbs less 11x.xx mph?

 

Actually I was wrong. Stock size was actually 195/60/15. OD is 24.2" And increase to 28" is a large increase in gearing. Anything over 10% makes a significant difference. That clicks in at over 15%.

I have no idea what you're referring to about the drain hole on the pan. I had nothing like that.

I agree that at 110+ traps are not going to be a problem.

Have you weighed your car yet? I'm thinking after my most recent work I'm going to be in the mid 2100 lbs range. We'll find out within the week I hope.

For the vid just click the link in my sig. They work great for me.

 

Broaner, have you tried using Good street tires or slicks? I want to see that thing launch like a bat out of hell. Makes me want to sell my Max and build one of these. How much have you spent so far?

 

No I haven't put on nice tires yet. I should be running on 245's in a week. They are by no means great but they are decent straightline grip wise. I think I'm going to get R compounds in 255/40/17 when these are done. Eventually when I do the body work I'll be running at least a 295 out back on. I'd really love to run 315's but that would require some serious body work. If when everything else is done I can't get traction on R's I might get a set of slicks. But clearing these monster *** rear brakes will be a problem. Thats why that would be at the very end. I'm building this to be a trackday car so ultimate straightline grip is not the intent.

How much have I spent? The brutal question that the GF and mom get p!ssed at when I tell the answer. I bought the car one year and a week ago for $850. Since then north of $11K has gone into it. I actually keep very good track of the costs on an Excel spreadsheet. Even the misc $2.00 fittings and stuff. Its disgusting isn't it. Sad part is its not even a third done.

 

So that makes my 4.08 rear end into a 3.52 compared to yours. Should be pretty good.

 

Thought you might like to know that I've been driving the hell outa this thing. Most of the bugs are now worked out. Just the weird no rev past 3'ish thing is left. I'll be making a thread about that later.

Anyway, back to topic. One of the places I stopped during my driving was the local truck stop for a weighment of the car. $8.50 later I have an official weight slip so all the @ssclowns on FA will shut there trap. Right before the swap it clicked in at 2240 with a 1/4 tank. Now it clicks the scale at 2260 with a full tank. Since that previous I've done a lot of stuff besides the swap so its hard to say how much weight the swap saved. I don't really care though. 1/4 mile race weight will be below 2200lbs. And the slip to prove it(now my sig)

 

"Race weight" = with or without the driver? 2260 has to be without... How much can a full tank change? Gas is ~8 lbs a gallon right?

My FB is about 50 lbs heavier than yours stock, and I am keeping front carpet (~12 lbs), the two door panels (~6 lbs each) and the top/sunroof trim (??). Basically only the rear (behind the two front seats) is gonna be fully stripped. The seats are two RCI race seats (12 lbs each).

I kept the stock fuel tank, didn't mess with that or the rear spare tire well.

Did you do some chopping in your doors? I dropped maybe 10 pounds from the passenger side door.

The 3.5 block is supposed to be 35 lbs lighter, and the hood + pop-up headlights (60 lbs for all 3) are getting replaced by aluminum (~5 lbs) and I've dropped about 30 lbs worth of frame/metal up front. So I guess my car is gonna very close if not the same weight as yours.

 

I've been tormenting myself about cutting the doors up. I have power windows so keeping them functional is more difficult because of how the motor mounts on the inner skeleton. What is your plan for windows or did you manage to keep the stockers? I don't like the fact that I have power windows. In fact I hate it. I wish to death I had cranks but its a bia to swap them from what I understand. I'd really like to remove them alltogether to save 10+lbs per door. Thats fine and dandy for track days but the 1/4 mile guys don't like that very much. Whats your plan for the windows. Lexan riveted on?

 

No keeping the glass, just saved that 10 lbs in the passenger door because it was broken anyway. The driver side door is staying power. I have no A/C lol. Gotta have at least one window and the sunroof.

The only thing I'm adding later is on is a 6-point roll bar, not a full roll cage. Should weight roughly 60 pounds. 1.7 lbs per foot.

We boxed the frame where it was rotten up front and it looks like it gonna be quite a bit stronger than the oem setup. Still got parts of the floor pans and left shock tower to fix and paint the bay.

I found a manual steering rack (no power steering). It's in aluminum and is much smaller than the 240'sx power steering rack. With the lines and steel-vs-aluminum it should save 10 lbs. It should also be much easier to steer since it's designed to be like that. With small tires and wheels and 300+ lbs out of the front alone it should be pretty easy to turn.

It's from a 2003 Kia Rio (I know but they all work the same) so it's pretty much new and shouldn't need a rebuild. And it'll never rust.

You can use any FWD manual steering rack (Hyundai Accent, Dodge Colt... that sort of econo crap) since the 240's steering rack is behind the front crossmember and set backwards like a FWD rack. While most RWD cars have the rack front of the crossmember (I tried getting one from an RX-7 but it would turn the wrong side for the 240's steering because it was set flipside front of the crossmember.

I'm sure you can get one for 70 or 80$ in the US. And get 2 rod ends + modify the tie rods (one is longer than the other so you can sit the motor further in the hole. That will allow me to sit it 2 inches lower and 3 inches back and gain a whole bunch of clearance for the aftermarket headers.

And it just looks awesome with the chrome headers on the 3.5 under the hood.

 

you couldn't have said it better

 

i wanna see a picture of the cat!!!

 

The figure I have for a KA24 is 368 lbs.

Mike