OK...here's the deal. I finished hooking (everything?) up yesterday, however the car will turn over but not fire. Here are the problems:

PROBLEM 1:

No fuel the way the external (OBX-R) FPR was routed. As per the sticky (and other readings, comments): from the fuel filter outlet, the fuel line goes straight to a brass T. One leg of the T goes directly to the unmodified fuel rail inlet. The other leg of the T goes to the OBX brand FPR. From the other side of the FPR. the line connected is the return line to the tank. Oh, and yes, I had a vacuum line running from the FPR to the intake manifold (just behind the throttle body). My two mechanic buddies came over last night to help me troubleshoot things...they both said that this routing made no sense. I never even get a reading from the FPR gauge. The result of this fuel routing (other than no fuel to the rail) was a burbling sound followed by overflow when I'd try to add gas (the tank was nearly empty at the time). I couldn't add more than a cup or two of gas b4 the pump would kick on and gas would overflow. My buddies temporarily hooked the fuel line up directly from the fuel filter to the rail to see if the car would at least start...it wouldn't (and there was ample fuel pressure to at least start the car).

PROBLEM 2:

NO SPARK! Don't know why. Following are the sensors I have hooked up: O2 sensors, knock sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, MAF sensor, 2 TPS plugs (to 2001 Pathy TPS/TB, which is supposed to be identical), boost sensor, IACV plugs. Oh, and I also carried over the EVAP system from the 3.0 and plugged it in.

OTHER INFORMATION:

There are a few, smaller plugs that rest at the driver's side end of the front valve cover (and one that is in the same bundle as the 3 IACV plugs but doesn't plug into the IACV itself) and I'm not sure what they're for. I have the devices they plug into and can send pictures. They were initially tied into into the metal vacuum line bundle that joins with the EGR. I was told NOT to hook them up to get the engine running initially...now I'm wondering. The only wiring I've touched are the injector plugs (soldered in new plugs to fit the 3.5 injectors...all wires wrapped and rewrapped individually to eliminate any contact with one another) and the 2 TPS plugs (same procedure...had to lengthen them by one foot).

At this point, I'm planning on having the car towed to my mechanics shop Monday AM. Can any of my fellow org'ers chime in and help? Thanks guys.

 

Is the crank ref sensor hooked up? The one near the tranny? It's connector is near the front VC.
The plug near the IACV is the EGR temp sensor.

 

As for fuel:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...21&postcount=4

Can you hook up the FPR w/o the T? Or is that not possible.

Also, which oil pan did you use.

 

I used the 3.0 upper/lower oil pans. As for the crank reference sensor, is that the one located right between the tranny case and the block on the front side? If so, then "Yes", I have that hooked up. Thx for the responses.

 

I've never before installed an FPR, but I followed the sticky instructions to a T (no pun intended). Based on my description above, I did it properly, didn't I?

 

Can you link me or show me your FPR?

Also is everything grounded good? Any CEL?

 

where are your grounds hooked up?

 

Grounds: one is the alternator ground (removed the nearest outer timing case bolt, cleaned the ground lug and reinstalled). The other two (or four, as they appear to be stacked in pairs) are for the engine wiring harness (on the front bank of cylinders, right in the middle). They were initially side-by-side using two different bolts on the 3.0 engine. They are all now going to one of the center upper intake manifold bolts, stacked...had to enlarge the holes a bit (with a drill) for the larger IM bolt to fit through. The fourth is the main negative battery cable. For this, I removed one of the four vertical tranny mount bolts, wire brushed it and the lug and reinstalled. So...bottom line...none of these grounds are going to where they originally did. Are there any other grounds, or very specific locations to which I should locate the ones I've already done? CEL's? Don't know...haven't checked. I'll do that and let you know what it displays.

 

OBX FPR link (Ebay): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-F...QQcmdZViewItem.
Item #: 17001427754
Only difference? Mine is red.

 

I'm heading out for a few hours to run errands, but I plan on checking some things on the car in the late afternoon. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...Steve.

 

Codes thus far: 8 long/7 short (0807?)

13 long/2short (1302?)

 

That's the CPS (POS). The CPS (REF) sits right below the crank pulley. Is that one hooked up?

 

The first one is for EVAP canister purge control valve/solenoid valve.

The second is for Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric pressure switch solenoid valve.

I don't think either of them would affect startup since they they are not energized unless the motor is on, to my understanding.

 

They are both hooked up, although I can report something strange. Yesterday, after I'd filled all fluids, I noticed a small coolant leak in one of the rubber lines feeding the oil cooler (the line sits just next to the CPS (REF)). I drained/recaptured most of the coolant and then, while removing the leaky hose (by slicing it lengthwise at each end with a razor blade), I swear I felt as though I was being SHOCKED! So...I disconnected the negative battery terminal and continued on to replace that section of hose and then refilled the coolant. Is it odd to be shocked like that (could it signify a bad sensor or bad ground or ?) or ???

 

Sensor shorted out?

 

I dunno. I imagine that, normally, I wouldn't/shouldn't feel a shock while my hand is within an inch or two of any of the sensors, should I? Should I try replacing that particular sensor or is there a method by which to test its functionality? Thx.

 

You should never feel a shock unless workin with open wires.

 

OK so, with that said, what would you do if it were your car? What typically causes a sensor/sensors to give off a shock (bad ground, etc.?). If a ground problem, then where do you think I should run my grounds (4 main harness grounds and negative battery ground)? Basically, I'm just wondering where you'd begin (#1, #2, #3...) and where you'd go from there. Also, please list for me what must be plugged in (aside from KS, O2's, CPS (x 2), MAF, TPS (x 2), coils, injectors, cam sensor, etc.) for the car to at least start. Thanks Kevlo911.

 

In case I neglected to mention this, my mechanic buddy TEMPORARILY ran the fuel line from from the fuel filter directly to the fuel rail (this ended the burbling/overflowing at the tank and allowed me to put 5 gallons in w/o difficulty). So...now I have fuel (obviously with less than 51psi) but no spark.

 

Recheck the wireing with the crank ref sensor, it is the sensor on the oil pan.

Honestly I would check all wireing, a + wire is touching the block IMO... It might short out the ecu. Check the wires and make sure nothing is touching.

All your grounds sound good except the main batt ground. Why isn't it on the block like stock?

 

First, an update on the "shocking" issue. I'm fairly certain now that the reason I received a low level shock was because I was holding a treble light (which may very well have gotten some coolant splashed on it) in one hand while cutting the coolant hose off with the other. I touched the sensor tonight with the key in the "on" position and it was just fine.

Why isn't the ground on the block? Honestly, because I couldn't see where to connect it on the 3.5. I've no problem changing the location if someone can recommend optimal placement. Regarding the crank position sensor, I'll check it again and post an update. I'll also have my mechanic check over the wiring Monday AM as I'm to d$^n frustrated to do it myself at this point.

 

Sorry I could not get in touch with you today, it has been very busy here with my friend who is in a demolition derby today.

The main battery grounding location on the 3.5 is in the same place as the 3.0. Just use the bracket from your 3.0. It bolts on.

 

"Use the bracket from the 3.0". OK...I took a pic of the battery ground b4 pulling the old engine, however, I can't see where it terminates and can't honestly remember. What does the "bracket" look like? I'm not at home right now, but I'll see if it's still on the 3.0 tomorrow AM. What is the best way to test the crankshaft pos sensor's function, BTW? Must I purchase and install a new one or ? How sensitive are they to being jarred/dropped? Of all the sensors on the car, the only one I remember an "oops" with is that one. I dropped it from a height of less than one foot b4 reinstalling it in the oil pan and I remember thinking, "S$&t...I hope that still works when...". I'd like to see if I can get spark b4 my mechanic charges me $85 per do do it himself. Thx.

 

It's a magnetic sensor, I don't know if dropping it will mess it up. Try to swap sensors with a local member and see if it makes a difference.

 

"Still no spark" bump.