Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

I have a quick question regarding the 3.5 swap. The Intake manifold from the vq35 won't bolt up, so I'm using the 3.0's intake manifold. The vq35 I'm using is a 2004.. would a 2002/2003's intake manifold bolt up, or do I just stick with the 3.0 IM ?

Also, I've read that one should use the 3.5 fuel rail/injectors, whats the advantage over using the 3.0?

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

you're saying the manifold FROM the vq35 wont bolt up to the vq35?

When you do the swap, you're replacing the entire engine, not just the manifold, it's not an 00vi.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Wow.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

I am very well aware that I am replacing the entire engine. I'm not entirely sure what the mechanic said, but he indicated he could not use the 3.5's IM for some reason.. I'll stop by and get the exact reason and take pictures and post a better worded question. I should be able to use the 3.5 IM with no problems, correct?

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

^ Your mechanic SHOULD NOT BE a mechanic............

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

considering it's the IM that came with the engine, i'd say yes, you shold be able to use it with no problems. I don't know what kind of crazy hack job your mechanic is trying to do.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

I'll find out shortly and post up and hopefully get some help from the org to let him know what should be done
Thanks

diymaximakid

iTrader: (2)

maybe he couldnt use it because the throttle body is diff??????

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure, I'll find out in an hour or so after I leave work and post up. Has anyone who swapped in a 2004 3.5 had an issue with the IM?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Yes, GoalieKeg. And no, he didn't have any issues.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, I'm getting more and more nervous.. can't concentrate on work worth a damn, lol Please god, tell me the mechanic isn't trying to use the 3.0 engine with parts and pieces from the 3.5 I'm almost 100% sure he's not.... time to see if I can sneak out early...

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I went to see him, and now apparently there is no problem with using the 3.5 IM

I think he was just feeling lazy last time and wanted to do less work, so he was using the 3.0 fuel rail and injectors etc to avoid any rewiring on the harness, replacing connecters, etc. it was towards the end of the day. Well, at least now things are looking as they should, using the 3.5 IM and the 3.5 injectors and fuel rail.

He did ask me the following questions though

1)Why do I need to enlarge that hole in the timing case mentioned in the sticky. It seems like everything fits without him enlarging it, and its not interfering with the timing chain or anything, so he basically wants to know why this step is necessary before he does it..

2) Where are you drilling the intake cams? Is it the hole right opposite from the dowel pin?

Thanks for everyone's help

nismology

iTrader: (8)

No. Contact stephen max for the spacer/adapters. The new dowel pin location is not 180* off and unless you have a degree wheel you shouldn't be doing the drilling.

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

the first question is common sense, its cause the holes for the timing cover bolts dont line up with the vq35, and you have to enlarge 2 holes to make them fit. Just physically line everything up and you'll see what I mean.

Contact StephenMax, he's the man when it comes to these type of things.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Everything will fit and nothing will interefere, but that bolt that goes there will not go in unless you enlarge that hole. As Tavarish mentioned, line everything up and you will see.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for the help.. that leaves the question of where to drill the intake cams.. i've pm'd Stephen, but it seems he must be busy these days.. can anyone else help out?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

The point is, dont drill the cams. get the adapters/spacers from stephenmax. If you do not have a degree wheel like mentioned earlier, dont dare drill those cams. Because there is a common misconception that you drill it 180* off the current dowel pin... its NOT.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Ah, so with the adapters/spacers I don't need to drill the cams. I thought the spacers were refering to the cam spacers like the JWT ones, which I had also needed to get.. I am assuming these are different? I'll pm stephenmax and hope he has some on him.

Thanks for clearing it up.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

So I'm going to get the spacers/adapters from StephenMax and avoid drilling.

As for the issue with drilling the hole, I found out why everything was lining up as is, with the bolt in no problems. The mechanic had switched out the very top part (which has the hole that needs to be enlarged) out with the same part from the 3.0 engine, as the 3.5 had a sensor that was not there on the 3.0, so everything lines up and the bolt goes right in. Not sure if the extra step of switching that part was necessary, but I did ask the guy to try to avoid any check engine lights to make sure the car passes inspection, so he's paying extra attention to sensors and whatnot, also hooked up the egr. For now, I wait till friday to get the spacers/adapters. Thanks for everyones help.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

You can use that piece that has the sensor on it. Just leave the sensor unplugged. But since you are using the 3.0 one, I doubt you will be able to use the 3.5 valve covers and coils.

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

yeah, I would be careful about that. Not only will the 3.5 valve covers not fit, but that is also the front cam bearings, which might not work correctly.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

hmmm, ok, I"ll communicate this back to the mechanic tomorrow afternoon

The_max87

What all do you have to modify to do the 3.5 swap?

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Ummmm, have you seen the sticky?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Obviously he hasn't, since he asked what needs modding.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

So we went back to the 3.5 piece and left the sensor unplugged. Engine is almost all back together, transmission was put back on today. I should have her back by Thursday

Now to decide weahter I get an EU or an SAFCII... decisions, decisions...

scrhale

EU hands down ... don't think twice.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

That's what I'm leaning towards.. I used to have a 2002 eclipse GT, and its ecu tended to 'learn' the altered readings from the SAFCII after a while, so I'm hoping to avoid that. However, the only reason I'm hesitant about the EU is that it seems people are having issues with a misfire code being thrown when using it. Aparently using some resistors can take care of that, but I'm not the electrically inclined to open it up and solder in resisters and I'd probably end up shorting the whole thing!

matty

iTrader: (54)

Adding the resistors was the easiest part of the install. 6 resistors get installed inside the eu to each IGN line and all to the same ground. Not a big deal at all

-matt

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

It's not a misfire code. It's because the ECU thinks the coil circuits are open (no load). The car will run just fine, except the light will be on.

As matty said the resistors are no big deal. Get someone to do it in your area who can do electrical work/soldering, or as a last resort send it to me and I'll do it for a small fee.

matty

iTrader: (54)

I can put them in too, in-case dandy's a bit too much money

-matt

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for the info. I feel more comfortable going with Emanage Ultimate now, so thats probably what I will do. One clarification though, with the resistors in place, will the light still be on, or does using the resistors solve that issue?

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yes the resistors get rid of the CEL.

Matty I wouldn't charge anything other than to cover shipping and parts costs, which would be like what, $10-$20 or even less? Do you seriously think I'm trying to turn a profit on this? Geez if I wanted to make money wiring in a couple of resistors is not the most efficient way to do it. It's easier for me to not even have to bother, I'm just trying to be helpful and say I'd do it if it was a last resort for someone, and the difference between them getting an EU and not getting it. It's far better for him to find a competent person locally.

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure he was just joking sarcasticly about you chargin too much.. and taking the chance to offer his help as well. And both of your comments did make the difference in my decision to go with an EU rather than something else, y'all rock

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

You're probably right. At first glance I thought with the icon he meant it was lame to charge anything.

It's been a long, stressful week, and I'm a bit wound tight at the moment.

Nevertheless it was probably good for me to clarify so no one gets the wrong impression when I say "fee." It's just to cover costs, nothing more.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Dandy...you took me seriously.?? I was seriously just kiddin around

-matt

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Not completely, but half seriously... my fault don't worry about it... like I said above just having a bad week and wound too tight... just didn't clue in right away. It's all good...

Mad_A

iTrader: (2)

Turned the car on today, she's running great

The hose on the intake box is a bit short though, so its not fitting properly,I'll have to see if I can get an extension or something. Anyone else run into this before? Once that is taken care of, my swap will finally be done.. Oh, I'm using everything stock as far as the intake is concerened (air filter, box etc.) Car is revving a bit high on idle, but I'll worry about that after everything is fitting properly.