thought it may be helpful to find out everyone who is using the greddy emanage ultimate. dan installed mine a few days ago, and i have a few questions but not sure who else is running one of these.

 

I am. Also runnin the extended the revlimit.

I've revved to 8200

 

kevlo what are your thoughts on this. the whole time dan was here the maxima ran like a dream. i dropped him off and was on my way home, takes about 30 mins.

Out of the blue, i was unable to pass 4500 rpms in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. It was much like the 2 step feature. Then with about 5 mins left I was able to get past 4500 rpms. that was totally confusing.

later that day i went for another test drive, everything ok

the next day, it was back and is still presently an issue. for some reason i cannot run past 4500 rpms in a gear at wot, but I did several 2nd gear pulls and found out at half throttle i could go all the way through the power band to 7200 but if i went wide open throttle it would hit 4500 rpms and do something simliar to the two step feature.

any ideas on what is happening? lol ! i bet its just a setting but everythings so new im not sure what i should be messing with.

 

I have the EU as well.

Intermittent problems can often be traced back to a loose wire or bad connection.

I have never used the 2-step, so I am just shooting from the hip here.

Is your 2-step rev limit set for 4500 rpm?

I believe the 2-step takes the vehicle speed sensor as an input to know when to change rev limits. (ie vehicle in motion)

Try logging your vehicle speed and see if it is erratic or drops to zero when you are experiencing problems.

 

the 2 step is set at 4000 rpm and my rpm gauge has always been off by 500 rpms for example, so im seeing 4500 which is really 4000. this is redneck theory but i wonder if i should deactivate the 2 step and see if this goes away.

 

Try to deactivate it and check your VSS connection on EMU.

 

i havent had a chance to even read the book, or mess around with the EU but with this issue, guess i will be learning a bit. in the photo above, if the problem im describing is someway linked to the 2 step feature. I might should try and disable it.

In looking at the 2 step setup, and throttle position set at 70%. maybe this is why i can get past 4500 rpms at half throttle but not past 4500 rpms at WOT in each gear? curious. (VSS is messed up, my rpm gauge will show 4500 but its really at 4000)



as for as disabling the 2 step, in photo above do i set everything to 0 ?
start
ign cut rpm
throttle position
# of V.S. pulse

unclear as to what i should do about the input and output channels. any suggestions before i hack away on some of the settings ?

 

Set the Start to zero you can leave the ignition cut at 7500.

 

kev so what you are saying is just change the start setting and dont worry about the rest of the stuff ? seems easy enough to me.

 

And the vss pulse and throttle pos. Set both to zero as well. And then put it back whenever you want to use the two step.

 

You are not going to be able to use the 2 step unless you have your VSS working and connected properly. Disable it and go from there.

 

thanks kev, made the changes, the software wont let me set the throttle pos. to zero, it goes back to 50. guess that is fine. kev do you have an instant message program?

so its -
start - 0
throttle pos. - 50
vss pulse - 0

 

Chris I was finally able to check email and replied to you... sorry for taking a while but I was up in the mountains hiking! THought I'd post here in case you see this before your email.

Your problem is not the EU...just that VSS.. get it fixed and all will be good. In the meantime you can do as Kev has said but all you need to do is set the start rpm to 0 (as I said in the email) and the 2-step will deactivate.

Sorry I probably shouldn't have left the 2-step activated for you but the VSS seemed to be working most of the time when we were doing all our runs...

Cheers.

 

kevlo911 on aim if you ever need help.

 

ha! dan i went out and made the changes right before i got your email. now i dont know if i need to change any of the values back. but this is how it is setup (see photo above)

on test drive, 4500 rpm issue is gone, i can floor it in every gear and it passes right on by 4500 rpms and keeps on climbing.

you know dan when we were working on the car, i wasnt throwing the VSS code, but I had before. then for some odd reason it must have kicked back in on me on the way home and started fouling things up with the 2 step.

car is running fine now, no more worries about that, almost wish i would have checked the codes now, and cleared out the ecu. now instead of a (always on) service engine light, the darn thing wants to flash now. looks like i will have to tape over that light, a blinking cel is bloody distracting!

 

Kinda related to this but could he have left the settings for the 2step and made if the "default" for one of the dip switches and reset for no 2step and made it the "default" for another. Like all off = 2step, all on = no 2step. Simply for ease of not having to go into the software if dip switches are readily accessible or is that limited to the maps only? Granted it wouldn't be a problem if the VSS worked correctly but was curious as to what all this software will allow.
Need to read through the manual some more myself.

 

Blinking CEL indicates misfires btw.... you might want to monitor that

 

Also have a question some what related to the 2 step... How does the 2 step affect internals? I've heard from various people that it dosen't hurt a stock motor let alone a built one while I heard from others that its really hard on the internals especiall on the rods and rod bolts. Can anyone really confirm how the launch control will do to an engine, especially with boost involved? I will have stock 3.5 rods but ARP rod bolts/head studs JWT valve springs and HKS HG for the time being.

sorry for the hijack Ceasars.

 

how do i monitor something like that ? are there any symptoms i should notice ? man i fix one thing and another thing slaps me in the face ! LOL !

like i was saying before i have always had a cel on, i knew what they would be before i checked, and all the regulars were there. this misfire , would that show up as a code ?

all i did was reset the ecu, after checking the codes and then thats when my constant cel turned into this pesky flash style one, what a pisser !

 

guess i can check the codes again, looking at haynes there are cels for cylinders 1-6, can check to see if for some odd reason one has popped up now that wasnt there before, i dunno! lol

did a bit of research on the 0201 (P1320) code i have, after reading over a thread the misfire is dead on. looks like what i need to do is figure out which cylinder by checking the codes again, and if they are the same, then go about it the hard way.


almost forgot that in reading the 0201 codes and symptoms I do recall a bit off shaking when i started the car after resetting the ecu. but pulled it up in the garage and parked it. havent noticed anything like that again. just the one time

 

just got back from testing the coils. i just disconnected each plug one at a time on the front 3 coils. engine would idle normal and when i would disconnect one ,it would idle funny and have a low tone. then i plugged the connector back in and engine ran fine.

then i did the same on the 3 rear coils, with the same results. engine would have a low tone, and idle funny when i took off the connector off from the coil and would go back to normal when i plugged it back in.

in wondering if this is a dummy cel, i think dan was talking about because i dont have the resistors with my EU ? i remember him saying something about a code would be thrown without the resistors, i just dont recall which one, or if it would be this one.

also this was the proper way to test to see if i had a bad coil correct ?

 

Most people would use a multi-meter. Without resistors, you will throw codes for sure. I think there is a thread 2 or 3 pages back, but I am not sure which ... I am actually pressed for time now.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...25&postcount=5
This post gave me the clearest understanding of the resistor fix

 

Yes, do the resistors.

I used 330ohm. But you can use 300-470ohm resistors.

 

awesome info in here! getting me ready for my future EU issues. subscribing...

 

Since I have a moment I'm going to post up what happened and what the solutions for Ceasar's issues were so there's no misinformation about the EU coming out of this... (Chris I hope you don't mind... I'm sure you're busy with that "other" thing this weekend... )

The issues:

1) While driving the 2-step was kicking in and not allowing the car to go past 4000 rpms.
2) P1320 (0201) code for Ignition Primary fault
3) Flashing CEL while driving

Solutions:

1) He has a faulty VSS causing the EU to think the wheels weren't turning. 2-step was deactivated for now until the VSS is fixed.

2) Added the resistors last night to get rid of the code. But note that this code had nothing to do with the flashing CEL! It will not affect the driveability of the car, nor will it cause the CEL to flash. - more on this below...

3) There were no bad coils, no misfiring was occurring, car was running smoothly and normally except for the flashing CEL, no cylinder #X or multiple cylinder misfire codes. Observing the car, the CEL flashing frequency was changing with rpms, and suddenly it hit: the ECU was simply in diagnostic mode 2, the O2 sensor monitor mode, and was simply flashing the CEL with the cycling of the O2 sensor. (How that happened is a story for another day that Ceasar can tell if he wants too ). We got the ECU back into normal diagnostic mode 1 and all was good. No more flashing light.

So nobody go and get scared off of the EU, I am 100% sure that if installed properly, it will work just fine with the Maxima.

Oh and BTW, for anyone who's still waiting for my EU write-up, it was 90% done before I left to come here to NZ, unfortunately I didn't get it done in time but will finish it up asap once I'm back in Canada (mid March).

Cheers!

 

Is the speed sensor required for anything other than the two step limiter? Does the E-U need its input for any other feature?

 

The only other thing it would need it for IIRC is the speed limiter remover. And since most Maximas either don't have it or can do away with it pretty easy it is not a big deal.

 

very well put dan, just got back from the races. might post up something about it in the 1/4 mile section. max was crazy though, went undefeated 8-0 in practice and fixed index bracket. taking out an older evo, one stock wrx sti, 2-3 subaru legacys (turbo, AWD), mazda rx2 (rotary power). EU is just fantastic. I ran a 13.73@99.56 mph my previous best minus the 00VI and EU was 14.097@96 mph at this track. so i was a .363 faster with new setup.

So with this info and from experience in March at Masterton I have a chance to get a 13.4x but 13.5 will be cake. always .2slower at this track i ran the 13.7 on.

thanks again dan !

 

I actually had that problem with the CEL flashing while driving.. I freaked out stopped on the side of the highway reset the ECU again and it stopped.

 

Congrats on the new times looks as though all is well, with a working VSS and the 2-step..

 

For anyone who has the EU, have you guys checked the OBD-2 readiness test codes?

I know it's possible to get the EU to run CEL free but do all the system readiness test's goto ready? Im sitting on the fence for the EU purchase and would like to know ahead of time. This car has to pass Massachusetts emissons tests with the EU installed, im not gonna rewire it to stock like I have done with the SMT-6. (SMT-6 = 7 wires Vs. EU = 30+ wires)

For those that do not know in Mass there can be no CELs and all OBD-2 readiness tests have to be OK. You cannot have a single not ready or they fail your car. This is to prevent people from reseting the ECU and then driving to the inspection station to pass before any CELs show up.

I could do the bypass setup with the Digikey connectors so I can swap back and fourth, but id rather not. My car runs very rich without any tuning, it's so bad when I upshift around 4500~5500 RPM in 1st or 2nd it will spit some fire out of the exhaust.

 

interesting thread. A little scary but i am leaning towards ultimate in the near future. I have the same question as posted above because in mass the car has to be ready and not hrowing any codes( exclusind the Knock sensor). I know the Ultimate has a feature for toggle with just changing the setting from street to race mode.

 

Joe the EU is about 38-40 connections depending on what you use...

I can't guarantee it but I don't see why the readiness tests would be a problem. If you install the EU and run it with near-stock or stock tune/settings, add the resistors to eliminate the P1320, the ECU shouldn't even know it's there. But maybe someone with a decent scan tool can verify that. My car won't be running for quite a while yet.

 

I have no code from the EU.