It's a shame that I know as much about the swap as I do and can't answer this for myself. Anyway, my swap has been done since October, but there's lots of things I'm going back and re-doing to make cleaner or better. One of those is my throttle cables. Currently, they are held on by a multitude of zip-ties, no bracket. Reason being is, my throttlebody was rotated 45º counterclockwise rather than the usual clockwise like most have done (an error on my part not realized 'til the adapter plate was already made).

As I'm sure some of you know, you can't simply rotate the throttlebody 45º in the other direction, either, it just doesn't work. The way the cables sit, I cannot use my 4th gen throttle cable bracket, not without adding additional metal to extend it's reach to a farther bolt hole. I'd rather not do that if possible. I need a solution to zip-ties, though. What is everyone using? Would it be possible to use 5th gen equipment?

 

MAKE THE 4th GEN ONE WORK FOOL
k?

 

Im using the 5G bracket that was already there, havent had a prob

 

i'm using the 5g tb bracket that i bought from the stealership for like $8. but i'm also using the 5g TB and IACV. i think thats the way to go. unless you have a PF tb.

 

I used the 5th gen one. I had to move it a bit towards the TB and drill a hole to have it positioned

 

Is there a way to put the iacv remotely from the tb plate?? I look to purchase a separate plate but saw that plate and it seems to be welded on the tb plate. Like bolted on a bracket that is attached to the firewall with the existing vacuums??

 

You need to make that entire block out of aluminum. Kris max made three originally. He sold them to Kevlo and two other members on the board. I borrowed the block from a member on here and made two of the IACV/TB blocks. I have one on my car and just sold the second one.

-matt

 

I would re-use my 4th gen one if it were possible. Kev, I'd like to do what you did, but as I stated already my throttlebody is rotated counterclockwise, not clockwise like yours is. This means my throttle cables sit much farther "forward" (towards the driver's side fender) and therefore the bracket almost has to sit off the edge of the manifold. Understand what I'm saying?

Here's a picture for reference:



This is an old picture and they don't sit QUITE like that now, though (like the cruise control cable isn't touching like it looks to be in that picture).

 

Yeah I think you can still do what I did; I drill ONE hole in the bracket and used the one of the 3 prethreaded holes on the im neck
Because I only drilled one hole I can rotate it so the cables are strait in line with the TB brackets, just at a slight angle.
Looks like you can do the same...

 

Hmm. I dunno, maybe. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Just curious, did you need any drill bits in particular to make the hole in the bracket? It doesn't seem too thick to me but I don't want to destroy any bits, either

 

I used a small bit to make an initial hole and then used a bigger bit to make the 10mm bolt fit.


You can kinda see where I drilled

 

While I have a thread open pertaining to the 00VI, I'll ask another question relating to fuel. The way I did my vacuum lines for the swap, the FPR and something emissions-related share a common vacuum source, and I didn't exactly do the best job I possibly could sealing up the area they T at. I'm almost positive I've always had a leak there since the swap, too. My question is, could a tiny, minuscule vacuum leak going to the FPR affect fuel pressure? The car runs fine, but I wonder about WOT performance with potentially below-stock fuel pressure.

 

Thanks. I'm going to try this tomorrow and see if I can get it to line up well enough to work. The problem I think I ran into before was that the position of the throttle cable "bolts" (the ones going around the cable that you use to tighten them up) was such that they were at an angle rather than horizontal. If that's the case, I may need to see if I can bend the one end of the bracket downward a little to match the angle of the cables.

 

Yupp that should make it work

 

It might, better to just redo the lines and fix it. It's not like it's hard thing to do

 

Not hard at all. I need something to T it with better, though. It's those REALLY, REALLY small vacuum hoses I'm dealing with and my T ended up being a barbed brass T-fitting big enough to stick the hoses inside of and JB weld into place

 

I found my T at Autozone and it fit nice and snug

I used some 3.5mm hose.

 

Unfortunately all I have local is a smaller Advance Auto store that isn't useful for anything beyond fluids, hose, electrical, and ordering stuff for you.

 

Go to like an Ace Hardware and look at their air tool fittings and look where they keep the "special" nuts and bolts and they have more brass T's and plastic T's there that will work.

 

I live in the middle of nowhere. All we have is Lowe's, Wal Mart, and some specialty hardware stores

On a semi-brighter note, I did install the bracket. I had to flip it upside down to make it work, though. Just bent it a little to get the angle right and put a bolt down through an existing hole on the bracket straight into a threaded hole on the manifold. No drilling needed I'm hoping it KEEPS the slack out of the line this time, though. My previous attempts with zip-ties have only kept the slack out of the lines until I drove it a couple times, then bam, slack again. I may still take a small, skinny piece of metal and drill holes in both ends to attempt to use the second bolt hole on the bracket somehow to keep it from rotating. It's pretty sure as-is, but I would like to be SURE. Also of note, with the bracket in place, I can't use my FSTB Not a huge deal, just kind of sucks.

 

Haha nice.

BTW Lowes >>>>>>>>>>>> Ace Hardware lol

My town only has a population of around 10000 and if I found parts, you can too. I also found the local Truck/semi repair places have alot of nice metric fittings

 

Well, wouldn't you know it. Fix one problem, discover 10 more

Started the car up to test a few things and had my head poking around in the engine bay. Low and behold, all kinds of noise coming from the timing case. Car runs fine, drives fine, doesn't seem down on power. What do you think? Timing chain tensioner? The noise wasn't there Friday when I last had the hood popped.

I say screw it all. 3.5 swap this fall when I go to school and can let the car sit

 

haha good call on the 3.5. I'm almost hoping my engine dies out in the near future so I can upgrade to the 3.5. Just the whole emissions testing to worry about after swapping that in.

 

It's actually looking like perhaps nitrous in the mean time to keep me happy That's once the car is finally paid off, though.

 

Has anyone installed with the 4th gen TB and NOT rotated it? I'm still trying to get mine in- I've removed one of the EGR component brackets underneath and dremeled off the bracket of vac gallery 1. I'm about 1/2 inch shy of where I feel like I'm putting a bit too much pressure on the vac and fuel lines underneath, trying not to reroute anything too far out of whack. BTW, Tatanko, your site helped me a bunch in my 00vi pre-education before I even started so thanks!

 

Yup. It all depends on the thickness of your adapter plate. To my knowledge the only people who HAVEN'T rotated it have had the combination adapter plate that you mount both the throttlebody and IACV to. This particular type of plate has enough thickness in it due to the IACV part that there's room for the bolts to go in and not have to be away from the bolt holes on the manifold.
No problem

 

OK, was actually able to get the 4th gen TB on there without rotating it. I'm using StephenMax's adapter plate (doesn't have the IACV connection)- about an inch or so thick?. The coolant line that connects on the bottom of the TB closer to the front of the car has the pipe coming out at a right angle- so I had to disconnect the coolant line, and stuck vac gallery 1 "inside" the elbow to be able to get the TB down enough to connect. After of course eliminiating the gallery bracket and a bit of rerouting.