i finally got my eu all wired up yesterday. had a custom bypass harness made so i can pull he unit out whenever i want, good thing too, getting things to work has been a pita.

anyway. i got the car all started and everyhing. seems to run pretty normal. but it idles at 850ish instead of 5-600, i also have a ses but that due to the fact that there arent resistors wired into the injectors, so the cars not seeing the load. is that the reason for the high idle? and when i rev high the rpms drop back down to 600 then pop back up to 850.

fyi my car is a 00fed spec 5spd, with basic boltons

also i cant get any of the changes ive made to actually work yet, not sure what im doing wrong. im following dandymax's writeup but i cant get the rev limit to raise, the 2step lauch to work or the vais swithc point to change. i might just have to play with it more.

and even with no changes made to the paoer of the car thru the eu, the car feels much faster, that doesnt make sence unless haveing the evu being unplugged reset it, any thoughts?

thanks all

 

You don't put resistors on the injectors.
Have you modified any maps?

 

besides the high idle the car runs great without the resistors.

and no i havent touched the maps yet, i want to get the car as back to stock as i can b4 i start to mess with things like that. and since im having problems with the easy stuff im gonna wait. that and myheaders go on next week so i know theyll throw things off and illhave to readjust again anyway.

 

my bad the ing coils, thought i was saying soemthing wrong.

 

great now new problems.

i wrote a whole new "program" from scratch and got mthe vais to open whenever i want, but still cant get the rev limit to work, havent even tried the rev limit extend yet. took the car out for a drive and it runs like crap, sounded like it was missing or soemthing, shook alot and sounded like a wrx(best way i can describe it) i datalogged and nothing looked strange, but my ses started flashing, i pulled the eu out and i checked the codes. a 1320, which makes sence but also a 1126. therostat code, wtf? i cleared the codes but the car still shakes, no ses tho.

this is all sorts of messed up

 

The shaking and flashing MIL mean your engine is misfiring badly. You possibly have either a bad ignition circuit connection between your ecu-eu-coil pack or one of your coil packs is toast.

I fried one of mine a couple of nights ago right after doing a firmware update. It melted the side right out of it.

I have had the EU installed for almost a year now and never had any ignition related codes so I never installed the resistors.

 

That definitely sounds like a bunch of misfiring. It's possibly a bad coil but if things were fine before the EU install then most likely you've got an error in the wiring.

 

More details please... which firmware, how long did you leave the key on for etc??

I've installed several EU's, including my own, and often had the key sitting ON for several minutes without problems, on all versions of the firmware/software, with and without resistors. All 4th gens though. Are you implying the coil melting was caused by the EU, and not just coincidental? As you said, you've had the EU for a year without problems...

 

Going from 1.14 to 2.12.

I only ever leave the key on just long enough to do the update.

Heat damage to electrical circuits can be cumulative as insulation breaks down. This may have been brewing for a while over the several updates that I have done and Sunday night was the last straw.

 

Ok well the cumulative time I've probably had my key ON and the car not running is more than several cars put together and never had a problem. Now I never really measured the output to the coils during this state, but they certainly didn't heat up.

Can you please measure your outputs with the key ON if you get a chance? Are you certain the EU caused this? Is it possible it was just "time" for that particular coil? (coils do occasionally fail even on non-EU cars)

I'd like to be absolutely sure, because as far as I know, coil burning has not been much of an issue with the EU like it was on the EB. The few cases that I know of, upon further investigation have usually been caused by faulty wiring, grounding or other non-related heat/mechanical issues. But misinformation gets spread easily if the facts are not clearly known.

 

I can measure the output with and without the EU in the circuit.

It would be a very extreme coincidence though. Everything was running perfectly. I shut the engine off, turned the key back on, did the update, turned the key off to power down the EU. As soon as I started the car back up it was misfiring badly.

I immediately reverted back to 1.14 and the misfiring was still there. I then started unplugging coil packs and found no change in rpm for #2. It was then I noticed that the side of the coil was bulged right out.

 

That would be great if you could take some measurements.

I understand it seems like an extreme coincidence, but I'm thinking back now to the other thread, and your KS pulling timing etc. Why was it doing that? Bad fuel maybe, but just to play devil's advocate - is it possible the coil was starting to go (maybe misfires intermittently etc), causing the KS to activate... it wouldn't necessarily trip your CEL if it was intermittent enough to not be occurring on consecutive trip cycles or happening only under WOT etc.

I don't know, just trying to think of possibilities. But I'd definitely like to see the line outputs with/without EU, especially since you don't have the resistors on the line.

 

Point taken, but I performed another series of WOT runs last night with three of my six coils swapped out with the same results.

 

update

pulled a code 306 cyl 6 misfire, it doesnt want to hold the code, just flash when it misses. i have to do it a few times for the car to hold the code. pretty sure its a coil, the car had started to run a tad rought over the last couple of weeks.

im having my eu installer test everything tonight to see if it is indeed the coil, or perhaps the inj, dont know how i could have messed that up, but wortha test anyway.

also im having my resistors wiered in today, hopefully i can get everything runing soon so i can report soemthing good for once.

 

update again.

replaced my #6 cylinder coil, and evrything seems back to how it was, the old coil looked fine but deff smelled burnt.

having the resistors soldered in tonight so hopefully ill get a chance to play tomo night after work.