don't worry about the smoke, the pcv valve explains that issue as well, massive oil being sucked from your valve cover into the intake.

 

Lag the injectors a bit and pull some full via the I/J Adj. map. Put some miles on the motor. You wont be able to tell after 12 miles. I would change the oil again since your having all your fuel issues. What I did when I was trying to get my injectors right was go to Walmart and just get a bunch of jugs of Castrol. I never knew when my Oil was contaminated enough, so I changed it alot

 

I don't know if I missed it but why not break in the motor properly with stock injectors; I would not install the EU until the motor is broken in "stock"

 

123456

 

I mention before, I am running stock injectors right now and that is why I having fuel issues. Its showing 21.0 both idle and crusing even with the FP set at 51psi (which is unnecessary). Its causing me to misfire also due to it being so lean. I think there is something physically wrong with the stock injectors (dirty or faulty).
Along with that issue, I don't have a stock ypipe to put on and my oil is tapped for the turbo return line. I would love to run na but at the moment I have no means to get back to NA. That is why I have to break it in with the turbo on but I'm not gonna let it see boost.

 

That is not why you are having fuel issues, your pcv valve is stuck, this is probably the only time I've been 100% certain about an 'internet' diagnosis


EDIT: be prepared to re-adjust your TB set screw again

 

And yeah, removing the turbo would be a huge waste of time in my opinion, I agree on that, just don't let it see boost, I meant stock as in don't start tuning until you're engine is mechanically sound

 

Yeah I suppose it would be fine to run minimal boost. But I would try to use the stock injectors. You need to figure out why the car is getting lean(airleak)... Why do you suspect them to be bad?

 

Well the pcv valve is working correctly, still running super lean. Just tested it and it was working like its suppose to.
The EU is installed, I was able to connect to my laptop and it starts, however I'm getting a ks code along with the 0201(ks not hooked up), also it is misfiring and its feels like its missing a cylinder at least. When connected I can see monitor the airflow, rpm, timing and injectors in/outputs, they are the same number in and out, so I'm assuming especially my injectors side is functioning properly? I'm going to recheck my ignition connection, Maybe causing me to misfire?
My question is, is there a way to check thru the software to see what is hooked up and/or getting a signal ie like individual ignition coil or injector?

 

EU is completely installed and functioning properly as far as I know, the car starts up fine, still have a little funny idle but it was better than before. I also did some real time scanning with the WB while I drove it around, although its running lean, when I get on it partially or when I'm in a lower gear such as 2nd or 3rd at 3-4.5k, the WB sees 13.0's for a split sec and goes back up to like 18-21.0. This very strange... my CEL also flashes every time I shift, I think it running lean and misfiring is related but I am at a lost while this is happening? I have no vacuum or air leaks, the only thing that I can relate this to is the fact that I have vacuum coming from the crankcase. Anyone got anymore ideas? Could my head or valves be bad?

 

1.If you can, perform an indvidual cylinder leak test.(Air compressor needed)
2.Hook up a vacuum gauge sparatic/fluttering needle is usually a sign of vacum/compression/valve leak..
3.Check your line to the booster you may still have a small vacuum leak.
4.During idle spray (accordingly) starter fluid/2+2 gum cutter. around the engine compartment.I.E along all hoses/gaskets. If there is a slight/ quick increase in rpms you have found a leak.For obvious reasons dont spray alot.Thats all I can think of right now.

 

Update: EU is fully installed, everything is working properly so far. The car starts and idles with the new injectors. Still having the same issue, idle and cruising at 21.0 a/f but actually comes down to the high 12's and 13's for a split second partial 3/4 throttle and back up to 18-21a/f. It actually bogs out and shudders pretty bad now too but the motor, definitely no power at all. FP is at 32psi and plugs were black. Also, I crawled underneath the car and my whole engine was covered with oil, I'm having a hard time finding where its coming from but I not from the spark plug cover. Could be HG or upper oil pan. I sprayed down the motor with cleaner, everything dried and started her up again after a few hours. The next day, took up peek underneath and oil was everywhere again including a small puddles on the ground where my feedpipe was...
So at the moment, I'm throwing in the towel. I'll be ordering a dek shortly to swap in because I really need to get the car running. I think I'm going to tear the 3.5 apart sometime later and hopefully figure out what exactly is the problem. While I'm at it, I'm also gonna hope to eventually upgrade the pistons and rods since thats the only thing that was left to have a fully built bottom end. This probably won't happen for a few months so in the mean time, the dek will have to do. Again thanks for all you guys' help. I wished this have turn out better for me, a turbo 3.5 would have been a monster but I think it was doom from day one. lol

 

Well, after taking a week break I did some late night troubleshooting tonight... I found that my rear injectors were not firing (spark plugs looks still brand new with a light coat of oil on it). It turn out that the power cable to the rear injectors were severed, kinda stupid now that I think about it, surprisingly the car idle normal even tho it was running on the front bank. Reconnected cable and saw some improvement, now the WB no longer pegged at 21a/f, it fluctuates from 15.5-19ish at idle, still lean but better than 21a/f. While cruising, It drops to 14ish and sometimes 12-13 but still hovers around the 15-18 range. I'm still getting a multi-misfire code, it still feel very sluggish. Something new came to my attention now that its firing on all cylinder: I'm getting a single pop in the intake and the IM, sound very much like intake detonation and very consistent, almost like its from a specific cylinder. Its audible when the hood is popped and engine hiccups when it pops. I'm not getting any crank or cam code, I only listened for a about a min because it was late and I didn't want to wake the neighbors. I will do some more investigating tomorrow. In the meantime, could this potentially be timing being off or the chain skipped a link? Bad Crank sensor or harness?

 

lol, I was dead set that you lied and never checked the pcv valve, but looks like my suggestion that got ignored about redoing the injector connectors would have done it


the dreaded answer to the question at the end, yes, though it could be other things as well, but that's where you should start. First check that all injectors are firing (easiest way with a s***hescope or screwdriver) then vacuum reading and ignition timing @ idle would help you/us tell for sure though.

 

+1 to checking idle vacuum and base timing.

 

well I did check the PCV, when I apply vacuum the breather sucks air and when I take vacuum away, it pushes air out. The injectors was an issue that I found out after tearing out the sub harness to recheck my work. I swore they were firing before but apparently not. . I also did the screw driver/hose test this morning and all are firing. I swear!!!

I fired her up this morning and she sounds a bit like a Subaru, I think I'm missing a cylinder or some is def wrong with my timing. Its very lopey on idle, I will try to take some video of it. On checking idle vacuum and base timing, can I get the reading off my boost gauge for vacuum and timing of the EU? what should I be seeing in terms of those numbers?

 

18-22 in-HG of vacuum and 15 degrees of timing at idle, +/- 2 degrees fluctuation.

 

Mine was/is 17" hg with one tooth off, and my base would fluctuate between 5-9* @ about 700rpm's. Using an IACV it would idle like a dream, but with no IACV even with the idle up around 800-900 it would do THIS Credit mdeezy for that one

 

Results are in...
Did compression test:
Cyl 1: 205
Cyl 2: 180
Cyl 3: 200
Cyl 4: 180
Cyl 5: 200
Cyl 6: 175

When I did the test, I notice that cylinder 3 and 5 coil packs were not firing, spark plug still looked clean. So I rewired both injector and coil park wires and now I have spark in cylinder 3 but none in 5. Started her and immediately I notice the bank 1 and 3 of the rear mainfold starts smoking, it actually started to change color like the front 3 banks. Cylinder 5 is still no spark, while idling I unplugged each of the coil packs. On all of the cylinders except bank 4 and 5 there was a noticeable difference in idle when coil pack was pulled, which proves that all those cylinder are firing. Cylinder 5 and potentially cylinder 4 is not firing at all. No change in tone or engine speed.

Check my idle vacuum: about 17hg no fluctuation on the manual boost gauge, on the EBC, its showing a fluctuation of -36/-37.

Timing from the EU showings at first anywhere from 12-17 on timing and after a little bit, it goes from 10-20 degrees. RPM were hovering about 1-1.1k. haven't brought it down. No flashing CEL yet...

What you guys think? Bad timing?

 

Hmm...

Perfect compression rear bank. Compromised compression front bank. Cylinder number 2 = wild card.


I think the front bank main sprocket skipped a tooth. As for cylinder #2, either bent valves or improper ring stagger allowing excessive blow-by. I'm leaning toward the latter.

 

lol oops typo. 180. sorry. The weird thing is, cylinder 4 at one point in time had ignition, the plugs shows that way along with the burnt manifold. So I may go back and check that specific cylinder again. Cylinder 5 however is another story?

 

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/techtips.htm


I suppose the cylinders that don't get spark depend on whether the sprocket is off one tooth in the advanced position or in the retarded position.

 

Not what I wanted to hear... this morning, I actually thought about biting the bullet and tear out the timing and re-time the sucker. I got as far as trying to take the motor mount bolts off but the 2 bolts directly under the mount would not budge and I have no room to maneuver to get a breaker bar in there (should have air gun them in :mad). So I gave up and did the compression test... so now it may look like I have to do this anyways.

 

Just tested the voltage on each of the coils. Since I have a J&S adapter module, I was able to test the voltage from the coils to the ecu and vice versa. Here is what I found: The six wires going to the ecu, I'm reading .89-.11x volts while on the coil side, I am reading the same voltage on all but the first two terminals which are cylinder 1 and 4. Also getting same .89-.11xvolts readings on terminal 2 and 3 on the 6 side terminals where I have bypass jumpers.
The weird thing is I'm not getting spark on cylinder 4 and 5 but from what I just tested I get reading from all 6 pins on the ECU side then terminal 1 (bypass) I have -.75volts that continues to thru the output bypass and to terminal 1 and 2 on the coil side. So somewhere from ECU terminal 1-2 and Input bypass terminal 1 I lost the signal but I have spark on cylinder 1. Maybe I can call John tomorrow and ask him about it. I'm gonna go back and check the wires tonight. This is very strange.

 

Good news! I remove the J&S module, rewired it directly back to stock and it fixed my no spark issue. All cylinder has spark and fuel now but I have this nasty idle where it goes from 1.5k to 2k @idle causing the A/F to fluctuates from 14.0-17ish, cruising is still at 14.7ish tho. When I actually give it a little gas, about half throttle; my WB shows super rich in the 9.9s /10's and unexpectedly I even saw like 3psi of boost. I was so surprised since my old dek didn't see boost at all with just a little bit of throttle however I haven't gone WOT yet but the turbo spools very fast and responsive being untuned.
One last thing I'm hoping will work itself out once the rings finally seat, is the smoking issue. I am leaving tons of smoke especially when I shift and idling, I'm hoping that this is just a temporary issue.
Again thanks everyone for your help and input, I actually was going to order a DEK tomorrow morning and just take the 3.5 out for the time being, now I don't have to do that. I just have a few more issues to punch out and I'll be completely satisfy, I'm so excited to see when everything is working properly how it will handle the boost.

 

Well that's good, were getting there and it you've deffinitly made quite a bit of progress from a few weeks ago when the thing wouldn't even start

The wording of this has me confused a little bit, but do you mean that when you disconnect the large vacuum line on the back passanger side of the manifold and apply vacuum it sucks air from the crankcase? because that is not what should be happening and explains the smoke and idle.

Also, what did that nasty oil leak from the back turn out to be?

 

This is exactly what the PCV was doing... If I removed vacuum from the PCV it pushes air out the crankcase breather but if I apply vacuum to the pcv, it sucks air thru the breather. It actually whistles a little bit. I pull the PCV out, it clicks when I shake it. I sucked on the top nipple and it lets air thru but when I blow it won't. I think you have it backwards.
It smokes out the exhaust when the car is running. I have Alty HR rings in there per Nismology's recommendation. The smoke is def oil as I can smell it...usually when I was having issues, the car would leak oil out the rear exhaust manifolds right after I turn the car off. I knew this because I cleaned it when it was cold, started her up and turned her off, looked underneath and oil was everywhere again. Since last's night's drive, I took a peak underneath after and as far as I could tell, it was dry. However, it was kinda dark so I will check again next time I start it.

 

I'm pretty sure I don't have it backwards and that your pcv is fuxord, you shouldn't be able to blow or suck from the top, only positive pressure from the bottom should be allowed to pass through it, hence the name Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. If you can suck from the top then when your car is idling the vacuum from the intake manifold is going to do the same thing and suck in air and oil causing a massive air leak/idle issue, lean a/f, and smoke out of the exhaust........ Put a breather on it and cap the port off on the intake manifold, change the oil, and have fun breaking that thing in and then boosting the hell out of it for me I want to see vid's of a 4.5 gen on boost

 

Seen this one?

http://www.vqpower.com/vids/turbotilleyer.zip

 

That is wrong, and it doesn't sound like his pcv is fine. note that the pcv valve is in the mostly closed position under high vacuum @ idle

Figure A: At idle, high manifold vacuum pulls plunger for minimum flow. Only a small amount of air is drawn through the valve. Idle air fuel mixture is not upset.



I'M ****ING DONE GIVING ADVICE< GRANTED THE INJECTOR WIRING WASN'T YOUR ONLY ISSUE BUT NOBODY WANTED TO LISTEN TO ME THERE, AND NOW PEOPLE ARE DISAGREEING WITH ME HERE< THROW SOME ****ING VISE GRIPS ON THE PCV HOSE AND PROVE ME RIGHT! I WILL NO LONGER BE GIVING ANY INFO IN THIS THREAD. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN.

 

Edited for misinfo.

 

Glad you didnt have to swap motors.Were you able to get in contact with j&s.? I dont get any response from them.

 

I haven't been Able to get a hold of John. He's a hard guy to get a hold of sometimes. I'm actually gping to de install it and sell it. Since I have EU already installed and the adapter is not working I have no use for it. J&S itself is working fine before the swap and I have the other good module not compatible with the EU still so I will pull it out sometime.

 

Yes I got a little frustrated, my apologies, what erks me is when my advice is not only not followed but totally disregarded and/or ignored as some of my posts have been in this thread . I think it also doesn't help that I want to see his car running the ***** probably as bad as him. Glad someone finally agrees with me though, as soon as I remembered about the pcv valve it clicked and all the symptoms made perfect sense, I was quite suprised nismo, yourself, and many other guys in the am forum who know way more than me didn't think of it either

 

Apology accepted.

I wasn't really following the thread earlier...

But now that I am actually thinking about this and not just scanning it for 2 seconds while distracted at work, the FSM does say the intake will suck air through the PCV valve, and if blowing from the bottom side should move the plunger then sucking from the top would do the same thing. I don't see any means to prevent that from happening. Look at EC-28 in the 98 FSM. The plunger and spring is simply moved by pressure differential across the spring; it moves farther under high vacuum (idle) which still allows flow but not as much as under lesser vacuum like partial throttle (which is the same as your pic posted above).

So now that I've looked at the FSM again I'm going to look like an idiot and reverse myself again. It is not backwards like I stated before, I was looking at the picture the wrong end up. But if you think about it, it actually agrees with your picture. In the end both agree, but the difference is that it is possible to pull the plunger up from the top with a vacuum signal even though you can't push it down with positive pressure (since it's already closed). Really the most likely thing to fuxor the PCV would be clogging. If you can't blow it down from the top and the spring moves under positive pressure from underneath, or negative pressure (vacuum) from the top, then it's more than likely ok.

So based on that I don't think it's too likely his PCV is the issue. If he's burning oil it could be getting into the combustion chamber past other seals (rings, valve seals, etc).

I can't believe all this trouble over a PCV valve. Boy some days I sure do feel brain dead - gettin' old. At least now my memory is refreshed on how it works...

 

I'm sorry you felt that way. I actually did everything that you told me to, I just never posted. Anyways, the pcv is blocked for the moment, I fixed my idle issue.. turned out the tb screw need some adjustment and now she idles like a champ. 900ish. Again man don't feel like I completely ignored you because I didn't. I had a lot on my plate and attack one issue at a time.

For the oil burning issue, these are bring new rings. On top of that, I knew there was oil in the exhaust manifolds and in the exhaust so it may just take some time to burn thru all of it. Time will only tell, I only put about 10-15 miles since I got the motor completely debugged. Now its a matter of time so we shall see.

 

after all that, i went to the dealership and bought a new pcv valve today haha, only like 13 bucks, so might as well.

 

I jump the gun too soon again...
Cylinder 5 is still giving me trouble, I check my plugs a few days ago and it still no showing any signs of ignition. I pulled the plug out, grounded against the IM and I got spark. Did another screw driver to injector test and hearing everyone except cylinder 5. Swap injectors and rewired both sets of wires (stock harness and EU) but still no fire on the injector. Also re did my timing a couple days and it was good, the car runs as well as it could on 5 cylinder. I haven't driven it much but it does idles and starts up fine every time, A/F is good also.

Now can someone explain to me how exactly does a fuel injector work electrically? I know its just a solenoid that open and closes, however looking at the wiring; I know it receive power (red wire) and the dual color wire goes to the ECU. Now does the ECU provide a ground to the injector at a given time to open the solenoid? How would one be able to test if the wiring is good? Is there a voltage or a reading that can be attain by a multimeter?

 

yes it has a constant power and the ecu provides a ground. To test if the wiring is good check for continuity between injector terminal X and ecu pin XX, refer to the fsm.

What is your vacuum and ignition timing @ idle?

 

Okay, I just checked the continuity of the cylinder 5 injector/ecu/eu harness...
I've checked the following:
-From injector harness to male end sub-harness plug (light blue and white)- Zero/good reading.
-From female end sub-harness to EU output wire(pink/gray) to EU harness- Zero/Good
-From EU harness input wire(pink/red) to ECU plug (106)- Zero
-From Injector power wire(red) to sub-harness male end (power)- zero

So from this as far as wiring goes, its good. Per FSM, I also physically took the injector out of the LIM while still attached to the fuel rail, unplugged the coil packs and tested each rear fuel injector. Like I have said before, cylinder 1 and 3 sprayed fuel and 5 didn't. Just to eliminate the potential bad injector, I plugged cylinder 3 injector harness into to 5 and it sprayed fuel so the injector is good. Now I'm back to square 1, wiring and injector is good. I have yet to test the timing but vacuum was showing 18hg on the boost gauge. So what else could be the cause of a specific injector not firing?