Here the pic of the boost gauge... vacuum showing 18hg.

 

Base timing... It ws initial startup, usually it idles around 900ish. Timing was fluctuating from 15 to 19.

 

ouch/interesting.

But does it have 12v constant at the injector plug?

I get the feeling you did check this though but didn't bother to mention it since the continuity checks out between the sub-harness, and with the other injectors obviously having power and all

 

Well I torn out the electrical to just to make sure that the sub-harness to the injector clip was in tacted and it was. On the constant power, assuming since I have continuity between the plug and the clip plus the fact that the other two injector clips are getting power and using the same source, the power wire is good on cylinder 5 also.
Since the wiring and "hardware" is good, this leads me back to thinking it being a timing issue. I've already re timed it once last week prior to posting an update and I made sure that it was timed correctly. Any advice on installing the primary chain tensioner? I tried priming it will oil like what everyone is saying but everytime I do, it doesn't let me push tensioner back in enough to be bolts back on the inner timing cover. Do you guys install the tensioner first and slip the chain on the guide or push the chain and guide as far as you can to install the tensioner?

Also figure out the smoking issue... Its all because of cylinder 5! When I pulled the plug out to check for spark, it was spitting oil out the spark plug hole like a ****, this due to the fact that its the only cylinder that the rings haven't sat. The oil is getting pushed out thru valves and causing the smoke and oil in the intake mani. So fixing this no ignition issue will fixing the smoke issue also.

 

Yes that's what I was trying to say, I have no idea how you worded it so perfect though. I'd check the constant right at the plug just to be on the safe side though, you should see power but it can't hurt right?

Allthough the vacuum seems low I don't think it's timing related imho because you clearly have 15* in the pic above........ Unless the EU is configured to run that timing regardless of the what the cam sensor/ecu want's it to be at? Someone else is going to have to enlighten me there......

 

Yea I can do that sometime tomorrow, my guess is its gonna show me 12v. just for the heck of it when I was testing the wires, I rewired a brand new wire from the EU output to the sub-harness just for the hell of it to see if it made a difference and it didn't . I'm really out of ideas... the only thing left is the timing but I don't know enough about the CPS (both cam and crank) to know how it would affect the firing of the injector if its even has any relevance. I could see if I was getting fuel sprayed or spark at the wrong time, it wouldn't ignite or it would misfire but I've never had an injector just not fire at all.

 

Test that injector line when the car is running. You may have continuity and power but it seems it's not being pulsed. So what I mean is test the output from the ECU first (going into the EU), and then the output from the EU. Maybe you have a dead injector driver (did you get your EU new?) Keep in mind everything you see on the EU datalogger is taken from Cyl #1

 

Yea when I spoke to him last night I suggested that he bypass the EU for the #5 injector before trying anything else. Hoping it's an EU issue.

 

Am I testing for voltage when I do this? Ground the multimeter and apply the red test lead to the wire?
I will do this and bypassing the EU on cylinder 5 like Nismology said after I get off work today. Thanks for the help.

 

Yes. Although I guess testing the ECU (EU input) side won't actually tell you which one is the culprit as the EU driver being bad would open the entire circuit..

Just test the EU output side. With the car running (at idle) you should have (roughly) battery voltage b/w the EU output and ground. If not, then the EU driver is probably bad, but to check that it's not the ECU you could bypass the EU. (If doing that fixes the problem then it confirms it).

PS I assume all the jumpers, engine settings on the EU are correct.. ?

 

Not being a smartazz, legit question.


How would he see battery voltage at pin 106 if the ECU sends a ground signal? Just wondering.

D'oh. Me = by ninja edit. lol

 

If the EU were not there, then he would see voltage on pin 106 if the ECU was working. All the ECU does is ground the circuit (intermittently hence a pulse), and since power is constantly supplied to the injectors, when it does that (each pulse) it completes the circuit.

But with a malfunctioning EU he might still not have voltage at the ECU terminal even if it was working, since the circuit would still be open at the EU output.

 

ok I will test that tonight, I checked my jumper settings and engine settings and its correct. I will post some results later tonight. Btw I bought this used on 350z forum so if it is bad, I either will have to buy a new unit or fix some way to fix this.

 

Alright and the verdict looks like the EU!!! I tested with the multimeter, first at the clip. I had no reading from the Blue/White wire and 12v on the red, next I tested the connection of the output from EU to Clip, I was getting like maybe .23v. Then I tested the connection from ECU to EU input, I was getting like 4-5v. This was inconclusive so I decided to just
bypassed the EU on Cylinder 5 and now it looks like I have combustion.
The tip of my plug is no longer clean, its shows signs of ignition.
I guessing I have a bad EU unit... since I bought this used about 6 months ago, I can't return to the seller. what are my options now? Is there a chip or connection that I can resolder Do I have purchase a new unit? I know Greddy don't warranty them if they aren't bought from an authorized dealer.

Also, it is safe to drive around with cylinder 5 bypassed? I really would like to get that piston ring seated.

 

Yup. Just turn the boost down to the lowest possible setting and get some load on that motor!!


What kinda afr do you have with zero corrections under boost?

 

Just for comparison and another check, did you measure any of the other outputs from the EU (other working cylinders)?

I hate to say it but almost every person I've heard of buying an EU used has had problems. Guess that's why people get rid of them, they screw them up and then just dump them. Anyone who's getting one still... I would not buy used!

 

Hey, i dont recommend having just one injector bypassed. Why dont you bypass all of them and tune via the MAF signal, im sure you have the ignition harness hooked up so you can retard timing if the maf signal corrections advances timing too much. This can be temporary fix for low boost and a good tune, im at 10psi and tuning via maf signal, my timing still looks almost stock.

 

Well, this was short lived.
Last night after I got the car running, I took it out for a spin to try to get some miles on the motor. I put about 25 miles on it and pop goes a rod! it looks like it's cylinder 2 or 4, I have no idea WTF just happened but I wasn't even in boost or even on it when it happened. Within the 25 miles, I only saw 3psi like 4-5 times and 6psi once (all in part of one gear, never saw redline). The A/f was 14.7 cruising and high 10's under part throttle, low/middle was kinda booty at first but as I got more and more miles in, the motor felt better and better until the rod went, the smoke was even gone at idle. All I heard was a tick tick tick at cruising, it got louder and louder in a matter of mins. I try to baby it and a few minutes later, I threw the rod.
I am lost for words right now and I really have no idea what went wrong, I wasn't extremely hard on it so I guess I'm done with the 3.5. I'm just gonna put a dek back in and be done with it, I've dump so much money in this swap to have it blown up that it's gonna take some time before I do anymore modding. Again guys thanks for everypne's help, I really wished this would have worked out but the luck I've been having with this lately, I wasn't suprised.

 

Well he doesn't have to bypass the other ones. He can just leave them all zero'd out in the injector adjustment map and let the airflow adjustment map take over.

 

Sorry to hear that man

 

Wow, been lurking in this thread and learning. Now you blow it up and that sucks. I guess the DEK swap will be a piece of cake.

 

Yea sounds like a bearing spun and the rod bent until it snapped. Really an unfortunate turn of events.

 

Wow, thats terrible, wasn't expecting to hear that all of a sudden.

The question is why did it happen (or first WHAT happened). You will be tearing it down before long I assume?

 

Sounds like a spun rod bearing to me.

 

Maybe (not necessarily disagreeing) but confirmation would be nice (when he pulls it apart), and I'd be more interested in the why. If it wasn't being pushed hard that shouldn't happen.

 

Oh sorry. He told me on AIM that there was a hole in the upper oil pan by the a/c bracket. But yea, we'll see exactly what it was upon tear-down.

 

Hah now you mention it..

Yeah I'm more interested in why, since he wasn't pushing it or over boosting etc.

 

Hearing that ruined my day; if that makes you feel any better; but it probably won't. Sorry man.

 

Okay just pull the motor out. It looks like a rod bolt on cylinder 2 came undone. When I took a look this morning, I could see the bottom part of the rod is just poking out the upper oil pan. Its intacted but no rod bolt present. I pull the lower oil pan and there are metal fragments that looks like bottom of the piston. I called my friend who did the install on the short block and I'm taking it there to tear it down completely. I will update more later and I have pics too.

 

Sorry for the crapo quality, damn camera phone... but as you may able to tell, the bottom (top section) basically skipped out of the crank, over the main bearing beam and punched a hole into the upper oil pan. The rod seems to be in one piece as far as i can tell but won't know for sure until I pull the oil pan. The rod bolt thread is still good, the mating surface b/w the top and bottom is still smooth so this leads me to believe the bolt backed out and cause this...

 

So the bearing cap is still there, being held on by the other rod bolt?

 

I don't know, I haven't tear the upper oil pan off yet since I'm moving the motor to my friend's shop, I don't want to tear it out completely before I get it there so theres no room for him to talk if it turns out to his fault. I'm presume its still in there since the hole isn't really big enough for much debris to come thru and its not in the lower. It'll be Monday when I take it down there.

 

better pictures:

 

those pics don't get much more clear, other than seeing it in person. sorry justin. dek swap will be easy.