So, I still haven't quite figured out how to get the VAFC to work correctly. It turns out I had spliced into the wrong wire for the TPS. As far as I know now it's correct. I'm getting a reading of about 4 (whatever) on the sensor check when the throttle is closed. There is no change when I step on the pedal. I'm wondering if it's the throttle learning that I'm doing wrong or if it's the wrong wire, again. Anyway, if it is the wrong wire, I'll try once more. If it isn't, is there any trick to getting the learning down? Yes, I know the 10 second closed, 10 second open, but is there anything else?

 

What ECU pin # did/are you using?

 

tps should be pin #83 according to the fsm

 

I used the install instructions for the VAFC-II off of VQpower. My Chilton manual says 31 GY/BL in color. The wire I tapped was white with silver marks.

 

According to the 1996 FSM you should be tapping into the white wire coming off of pin #23.

 

Well then I should have the right one. Is there anything I should know about the learning? On VQPower it says on boot up but in the manual it seems to show at the car select menu.

Awesome, now my RPM signal gave out. I don't know what's going on. I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow.

 

Anyone know if a 4th Gen TPS works on the 5th Gen throttle body? I think that may be my problem...

 

Did you select the right car type in the Settings? 6cyl, Arrow UP (NE). Make sure you soldered all the wires other than the MAF or you risk loose connections and faulty readings

 

i dont mean to jack this thread. but the vafc reads in MAP "readings", right? What I'm getting at is..what mathmatical conversion would someone with a vafc2 have to do to see if their MAF is up to par/working correctly.
im a noob at this.

 

Yeah, everything is good but it seems as though the VAFC isn't reading the voltage. There is no change when I step on the pedal in the sensor check.

 

try initializing the settings and starting over, always worth a try

 

Triple Check the TPS connection on the ECU, it is very easy to confuse wires down there.

 

Yes, it does. Mine works perfectly fine.

 

Well I've triple and quadruple checked my connections. Everything is where it needs to be. I get a reading of about 4 volts on the TPS sensor check and no change when the pedal is depressed. Also, those of you who have done A/F correction with 5th Gen injectors, what is your correction? I won't use it as a starting point, I'd just like an idea of roughly where I want to be.

 

Riiiight.....

 

Haha I'm serious. There is nowhere in town that does tuning. I'm waiting on the money for a WB 02 sensor I've just never tuned before so I don't know what I should be doing.

 

Here's some advice then: read the tuning information stickied at the top of the All Motor forum and then hit up the Dyno forum. Take a look at all motor tunes and the relative A/F ratios they are working with for optimal power and make some educated decisions based on what you read and find. Remember, when in doubt leave it a little rich. When you can, though, get a proper dyno tune done. I'll have to travel about 30 minutes to get one done, but it will be worth it in my opinion.

 

I tried the link that was under the tuning for dummies category but it didn't work. If I only had to go a half hour, that would be awesome. Closest to me is 5 hours away. What I just need to know is for correction do I want positive or negative?

 

there arent ANY dyno's closer than 5 miles? if you arent trying to make record numbers then you dont need a dynojet. and in fact, using another type of dyno, ie: load based dyno, will give you a better tune for the real world

 

Haha there is nothing here. I'm in West Texas. There is one dyno 50 miles away that is private and only does LS1's. Next closest thing is Dallas.

 

positive add fuel
negative takes away fuel.

your wideband will help you decide which to do

 

Thank you!