My n/a project
just thought I would put this out there...
I was looking at some stuff on IPP including the Toga oil pump and decided to check out the company. Cam across this thread that has a lot of bad things to say about the product. I rem you said you are using one so I thought I would let you see this before you get it in your car.. Has me not wanting one..
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701186755
I was looking at some stuff on IPP including the Toga oil pump and decided to check out the company. Cam across this thread that has a lot of bad things to say about the product. I rem you said you are using one so I thought I would let you see this before you get it in your car.. Has me not wanting one..
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701186755
1- New injectors ( I'm shooting for 400HP to the ground )
Deustchworks 550cc or the 300zx ones
2- Do I need new fuel rails ? Wich one ?
No OEM fuel rails can handle up to 500hp+ I would suggest a FPR though, just get one of those nismo ones on ebay.
3- Engine management for tuning and rev limiter removal, timing etc
Emanage ultimate, dandy should be able to tell you some details about rev limit removal.
4- New cams wich one seem the best for my set-up ?
either oem 3.5s or s1s, I expressed concern about the potential power after 7,200 rpms with oem 3.5 cams, so thats why I am going with the s1 knockoffs on ebay.
5- My auto tranny will need to be bullet proof the cost is about 4000$ US, can I do a clean trouble free 5 or 6 speed transplant for that money
6-For the blower should I get a used V2 and have it rebuild or does a V3 would be a better route ?
$4000 for what? I just a used tranny for $75, getting a better torque converter for ~$300 and have the VB mod job done (~$400-500), then buying a supra stick with paddle shifters and calling it a day. The auto tranny will last you long enough and when it goes, buy another rebuilt one, throw you TC on and the modded VB. I believe doing a 5sp is around $1,500 the 6sp is a bit more. I'm staying auto as of late
Forgot to mention A tranny cooler is going to be definetly neccessary for your setup.
7- Wich side the MAF should be installed ?
I would try and run a mafless setup, better potential IMO
8- Suggestion for an intercooler
Ebay ones work fine from what I hear
9-I'd like to buy a new performance radiator but wich one would be direct swap
I hear the koyo direct replacement radiators are just fine and for 150 its not bad.
10-The suspension, I want this car to have a decent ride, I'm not putting back the D2
so should I just put some illumina & a good set of spring of will Tein or JIC coilover will made me forget about all the noise and trouble with the D2 ?
Take a look at my sig, I have agility on the line to develop us some nice coilovers. They just emailed me a week ago and have plans to start developing them soon, just need to get some things together and get people who are seriously interested to put down a down payment for them. If you want more details PM me, but if we get them to start with in the next month, we will see them by january-febuary 2009.
Deustchworks 550cc or the 300zx ones
2- Do I need new fuel rails ? Wich one ?
No OEM fuel rails can handle up to 500hp+ I would suggest a FPR though, just get one of those nismo ones on ebay.
3- Engine management for tuning and rev limiter removal, timing etc
Emanage ultimate, dandy should be able to tell you some details about rev limit removal.
4- New cams wich one seem the best for my set-up ?
either oem 3.5s or s1s, I expressed concern about the potential power after 7,200 rpms with oem 3.5 cams, so thats why I am going with the s1 knockoffs on ebay.
5- My auto tranny will need to be bullet proof the cost is about 4000$ US, can I do a clean trouble free 5 or 6 speed transplant for that money
6-For the blower should I get a used V2 and have it rebuild or does a V3 would be a better route ?
$4000 for what? I just a used tranny for $75, getting a better torque converter for ~$300 and have the VB mod job done (~$400-500), then buying a supra stick with paddle shifters and calling it a day. The auto tranny will last you long enough and when it goes, buy another rebuilt one, throw you TC on and the modded VB. I believe doing a 5sp is around $1,500 the 6sp is a bit more. I'm staying auto as of late
Forgot to mention A tranny cooler is going to be definetly neccessary for your setup.
7- Wich side the MAF should be installed ?
I would try and run a mafless setup, better potential IMO
8- Suggestion for an intercooler
Ebay ones work fine from what I hear
9-I'd like to buy a new performance radiator but wich one would be direct swap
I hear the koyo direct replacement radiators are just fine and for 150 its not bad.
10-The suspension, I want this car to have a decent ride, I'm not putting back the D2
so should I just put some illumina & a good set of spring of will Tein or JIC coilover will made me forget about all the noise and trouble with the D2 ?
Take a look at my sig, I have agility on the line to develop us some nice coilovers. They just emailed me a week ago and have plans to start developing them soon, just need to get some things together and get people who are seriously interested to put down a down payment for them. If you want more details PM me, but if we get them to start with in the next month, we will see them by january-febuary 2009.
1- Deutscherk 550
2- I've check on e-bay for Nismo so any specific one ?
3- I've always though about EU
4-I try to get a set of S1
5-Sound good to me, my auto tranny was A 1 when I pulled, wich torq converter should I buy ? Any suggestion/place to buy ? Ok for the tranny cooler & VB recal + Supra Stick + A+++
6- I may have found a used V2 so if that worked out I'll have rebuilt and upgrade to T trim.
7- How can you run a MAF less set-up ?
8-OK
9-Griffen or Koyo, I'll read on both product and will pick up the best one.
10-I had forgot about the Agility... A down payment is not a problem, but I dont want to be a Guinea pig like I was for the D2, the most important for me is no more bling bling, I want a solid product that wont require to be tuned on a daily base. I have yet to see but about Agility but JIC is close to get my money, my car will only be on the road next spring so I can certainly wait to see what Agility have to offer before I drop the dough to JIC.
P.S: Reading the info & crap about the Toga oil pump is making me think I should maybe pick-up an HR oil pump and run test on both ! What do you think about the Toga ? when I ordered it I though that I was buying the best product out there.
Hey DaveVQ, it's been a while since we talked about our mutual project, I hope your's is going well too. Thanks for your feedback.
1- Deutscherk 550
2- I've check on e-bay for Nismo so any specific one ?
3- I've always though about EU
4-I try to get a set of S1
5-Sound good to me, my auto tranny was A 1 when I pulled, wich torq converter should I buy ? Any suggestion/place to buy ? Ok for the tranny cooler & VB recal + Supra Stick + A+++
6- I may have found a used V2 so if that worked out I'll have rebuilt and upgrade to T trim.
7- How can you run a MAF less set-up ?
8-OK
9-Griffen or Koyo, I'll read on both product and will pick up the best one.
10-I had forgot about the Agility... A down payment is not a problem, but I dont want to be a Guinea pig like I was for the D2, the most important for me is no more bling bling, I want a solid product that wont require to be tuned on a daily base. I have yet to see but about Agility but JIC is close to get my money, my car will only be on the road next spring so I can certainly wait to see what Agility have to offer before I drop the dough to JIC.
P.S: Reading the info & crap about the Toga oil pump is making me think I should maybe pick-up an HR oil pump and run test on both ! What do you think about the Toga ? when I ordered it I though that I was buying the best product out there.
1- Deutscherk 550
2- I've check on e-bay for Nismo so any specific one ?
3- I've always though about EU
4-I try to get a set of S1
5-Sound good to me, my auto tranny was A 1 when I pulled, wich torq converter should I buy ? Any suggestion/place to buy ? Ok for the tranny cooler & VB recal + Supra Stick + A+++
6- I may have found a used V2 so if that worked out I'll have rebuilt and upgrade to T trim.
7- How can you run a MAF less set-up ?
8-OK
9-Griffen or Koyo, I'll read on both product and will pick up the best one.
10-I had forgot about the Agility... A down payment is not a problem, but I dont want to be a Guinea pig like I was for the D2, the most important for me is no more bling bling, I want a solid product that wont require to be tuned on a daily base. I have yet to see but about Agility but JIC is close to get my money, my car will only be on the road next spring so I can certainly wait to see what Agility have to offer before I drop the dough to JIC.
P.S: Reading the info & crap about the Toga oil pump is making me think I should maybe pick-up an HR oil pump and run test on both ! What do you think about the Toga ? when I ordered it I though that I was buying the best product out there.
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...regulator.html
This is the one I found on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISMO...ayphotohosting
5- I was looking into torque converters and sent out a bunch of emails to companies about getting one. I was looking into a 3000 rpm stall converter, no one responded. Then I remember chernmax had gotten a customized torque converter from here: http://www.floridatorque.com/ SO I am going to give them a try when I have the money to do so
7- The eu has some settings you can play with to run a mafless setup, dandy did it. I need to get an EU set up (probably not till january) to play with these settings.
as for the agilities, You should be able to read up on the full specs and everything they are going to offer, such as dyno sheets of the coilovers and pairing them all with in 8% ratio. They are going to be offering an amazing support line for them, I will let you know when we get the ball rolling. And don't worry you won't be a guenie pig, you can follow the development of their coilovers that they developed for other cars, they have threads about how many times they tweaked them and tried them on a car until they got them right, thats what really turned me onto agility.
If your going to get s1s I would just get the knockoffs.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; Sep 21, 2008 at 08:56 AM.
P.S: Reading the info & crap about the Toga oil pump is making me think I should maybe pick-up an HR oil pump and run test on both ! What do you think about the Toga ? when I ordered it I though that I was buying the best product out there.
If your going to get s1s I would just get the knockoffs.
One question I forgot, should I keep the swirl valve in the UIM ? I cant seem to find much infos on it, should it stay or should it go ? I have a broken cup so if I keep it I'll weld it instead of using glue, now does anyone has a clear picture of how the cup is supposed to stand ?
Thanks
Thanks
You could try doing both, but I would ride without it. You loose a little low end but gain more top end and see as how once your off the line your shift points tend to keep you above 3,500 rpms so you'll never really notice it. I've talked to aaron92se about grinding out the center shelf of the IM and he said to do as much as possible and he could finish the rest. He was curious to see how it would turn out because it technically be a SSIM for the 00-01 guys.
As for the cup postion this should have the pics in it you need
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=21
I have talked to grey99max about a custom IM, I was going to use the vq35 pathfinder IM using the short runners. They have larger opening through the runners and you can fit either the Pathfinder TB which is 75mm IIRC, or the VH45 TB which 90mm. I think I am going to play with all four setups once my engine is done, Stock IM, SSIM00, PF75, PF90.
As for the cup postion this should have the pics in it you need
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=21
I have talked to grey99max about a custom IM, I was going to use the vq35 pathfinder IM using the short runners. They have larger opening through the runners and you can fit either the Pathfinder TB which is 75mm IIRC, or the VH45 TB which 90mm. I think I am going to play with all four setups once my engine is done, Stock IM, SSIM00, PF75, PF90.
DaveVQ, thanks for the infos, I'm definitely removing the power rods, and as you mentioned I'll try to remove as much material in the center that wont be hard since it's plastic.
I found some pics of the shop doing my valve jobs, enjoy.
Over view of the shop:
The automated cnc machine they used specifically for valve jobs:
Jocelyn one of the owners of the shop, showing me how he set-up the cnc:
A view at the cnc software parameter:
I found some pics of the shop doing my valve jobs, enjoy.
Over view of the shop:
The automated cnc machine they used specifically for valve jobs:
Jocelyn one of the owners of the shop, showing me how he set-up the cnc:
A view at the cnc software parameter:
Last edited by doublea; Sep 22, 2008 at 12:41 PM.
doublea
I was doing some reading tonight that I think you should read (especially post 6 & 7 then 8)
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...induction.html
So after you read that I have come to the conclusion that we still need to figure out the best cams for us, I'm thinking that OEM 3.5s are the best cause I have been looking at many websites and alot of them say more valve lift less overlap for supercharging.
I was doing some reading tonight that I think you should read (especially post 6 & 7 then 8)
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...induction.html
So after you read that I have come to the conclusion that we still need to figure out the best cams for us, I'm thinking that OEM 3.5s are the best cause I have been looking at many websites and alot of them say more valve lift less overlap for supercharging.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; Sep 26, 2008 at 06:17 PM.
That thread is way outdated. Aftermarket cams make power on boosted motors, turbo or otherwise. If you insist on running OEM cams, I'd say revup cams are a better option.
Last edited by nismology; Sep 26, 2008 at 09:56 PM.
I might get a good set of aftermarket cam, because I didn't finally bought the M5 my budget has increased by a good number for this build. I still have the VQ35 cam but I have no idea if they are the rev-up, how can I verify this ?
I spoke with the shop manager yesterday and my VQ30DEK heads will be ready by next week.
Now I just need to wait 6-8 weeks for the custom rods to arrive before the engine get balanced and assembled. I also read that Cattman is releasing a 3" Cat-Back, I already have the 2.5 but should I get rid of it and go for the 3" ? I have yet to order a set of headers so I was thinking that I might be better going with the 3" Any though on this ?
I spoke with the shop manager yesterday and my VQ30DEK heads will be ready by next week.
Now I just need to wait 6-8 weeks for the custom rods to arrive before the engine get balanced and assembled. I also read that Cattman is releasing a 3" Cat-Back, I already have the 2.5 but should I get rid of it and go for the 3" ? I have yet to order a set of headers so I was thinking that I might be better going with the 3" Any though on this ?
Last edited by doublea; Sep 27, 2008 at 05:07 AM.
Just got back from GG Buffing, a local business specialized in polishing and chrome process, I'm having both timing case cover, both valve cover and few brackets that will be chromed process, also Matty's V1 bracket is being Black chromed. All in all it will cost me 2500$ cdn. I cant wait to show you all how gorgeous this engine will be once assembled and dressed.
I might get a good set of aftermarket cam, because I didn't finally bought the M5 my budget has increased by a good number for this build. I still have the VQ35 cam but I have no idea if they are the rev-up, how can I verify this ?
I spoke with the shop manager yesterday and my VQ30DEK heads will be ready by next week.
Now I just need to wait 6-8 weeks for the custom rods to arrive before the engine get balanced and assembled. I also read that Cattman is releasing a 3" Cat-Back, I already have the 2.5 but should I get rid of it and go for the 3" ? I have yet to order a set of headers so I was thinking that I might be better going with the 3" Any though on this ?
I spoke with the shop manager yesterday and my VQ30DEK heads will be ready by next week.
Now I just need to wait 6-8 weeks for the custom rods to arrive before the engine get balanced and assembled. I also read that Cattman is releasing a 3" Cat-Back, I already have the 2.5 but should I get rid of it and go for the 3" ? I have yet to order a set of headers so I was thinking that I might be better going with the 3" Any though on this ?
I don't know if it means anything, but I am going 3" exhaust in the next few weeks. The thing is though I am not going through cattman and building my own 3" exhaust with an electric cutout its turning out to be way cheaper then what cattman offers, no offense to them by all means I give cattman Thumbs up for everything they have done, but sometimes things need to be done on your own to be creative with it.
Just got back from GG Buffing, a local business specialized in polishing and chrome process, I'm having both timing case cover, both valve cover and few brackets that will be chromed process, also Matty's V1 bracket is being Black chromed. All in all it will cost me 2500$ cdn. I cant wait to show you all how gorgeous this engine will be once assembled and dressed.
I think the next few weeks are going to be like months. lol I still have a lot to finish, like next week I'm ordering all the drive train and suspension parts, many bolt bracket and what not. I hope to paint the damn engine bay within the next two weeks, I couldn't work a lot lately my business keep me real busy, anyhow I'll be ready for next spring.
I receive some more parts from Dave B. I got the HR head bolts I see they are a little longer than the stock one. I also got the new water pump, tie rods and such. Half of the engine bay has been sanded, so I hope to finish the other half tonight. Technically I'm ready to prime this week-end but that wont happend before next week-end, I have some fabrication on the schedule, I need to build a temporary ventilation system ( positive pressure ) with a filter box that will be located outside the garage. That's about where I stand now, I'm calling the shop tomorrow morning and see when I can pick-up the heads.
Last edited by doublea; Oct 5, 2008 at 05:21 AM.
I'm wondering where should I send my auto tranny for a bullet proof rebuilt ? I heard about level 10 but but also few horror story so I dunno what would be the best shop to deal with ? I'd rather have a place that some org member would know is a reputable place to deal with.
I'm going to pick-up the head this pm, so watch out for pics tonight. I wanna thank Budi who sold me 2 x spindle with the wheel hub in good condition for 80$ + shipping. I'm saving like a 1000$, I was about to order new one but at 550$ for each side the money saved will go on something else.
I'm wondering where should I send my auto tranny for a bullet proof rebuilt ? I heard about level 10 but but also few horror story so I dunno what would be the best shop to deal with ? I'd rather have a place that some org member would know is a reputable place to deal with.
Keep up the good work - and the documentation you're doing.
Hey, AA, glad to see your project is still underway.. A side note - why build a "bullet proof" tranny for several thousand dollars when you can get used VLSD automatics for a few hundred dollars? Both Jime and I use stock VLSD automatics (with shifter mods) and they seem to hold up for years on the drag strip...
Keep up the good work - and the documentation you're doing.
Keep up the good work - and the documentation you're doing.
Your probably right about the tranny. I'm going to get a VB recal, tranny cooler and Suprastick and see what happend, I'm not a racer so it might hold for a good while but in the mean time I'm going to try to buy a spare auto tranny locally and build it on the side so I can swap it during winter time when the car is stored in my garage.
Oh ya still going strong. Just pick-up the head this morning, and they did a really nice job, I could not be more happy about it. I dont have my digi cam with me so I'll try to post some pics tonight but most probably tomorrow morning.
Your probably right about the tranny. I'm going to get a VB recal, tranny cooler and Suprastick and see what happend, I'm not a racer so it might hold for a good while but in the mean time I'm going to try to buy a spare auto tranny locally and build it on the side so I can swap it during winter time when the car is stored in my garage.
Your probably right about the tranny. I'm going to get a VB recal, tranny cooler and Suprastick and see what happend, I'm not a racer so it might hold for a good while but in the mean time I'm going to try to buy a spare auto tranny locally and build it on the side so I can swap it during winter time when the car is stored in my garage.
Those 4AT trannys are tough - and a cooler is important. Too much heat will kill them. I have two coolers on mine - both up front of the radiator. You can get used VLSD trannys much easier than in the States, so swap instead of building a replacement.
Keep up the good work.
After many weeks of waiting, I'm please to post the pics I took yesterday, the camera is not that great for close up shots, but I was able to take a few good one.
If you take a close look at the intake port you'll see how bigger they are now compare to stock size. I was able to shape them similar to the VQ35 heads. The also shaved .0005 on the deck we wanted to make sure the deck is perfectly flat. I have to port a little more around the bowl but over all I'm very satisfied of the job they done, very professional guys.
If you take a close look at the intake port you'll see how bigger they are now compare to stock size. I was able to shape them similar to the VQ35 heads. The also shaved .0005 on the deck we wanted to make sure the deck is perfectly flat. I have to port a little more around the bowl but over all I'm very satisfied of the job they done, very professional guys.
I cant wait to finish assemble the heads, hopefully I will be done over this week-end. I have more pics on some other part I've polished I'll post it later cuz now it's time to go play with the kids.
See ya later.
AA
See ya later.
AA
Good work man. The ulimate n/a VQ heads are the Nismo heads since they use the compact 3.0 chamber but the higher flowing VQ35 intake ports. You've managed to get as close to that as possible without forking over thousands. Huge props!
I'd like to see how they flow.
I'd like to see how they flow.
I may have your guys do my heads for me, I think the quality of their work is astounding
Hey nismology, I've asked the shop for the flow bench and they said there because there are so many variable, tools & calibration method, that in order to get the data for comparing before and after, anyone would have to flow bench their stock heads, then do the port & polish + valve seats & valve jobs and then flow bench again using the same equipment and calibration they used for the first round. He ended saying, to not worry the VQ30DEK head will flow much better than stock.
Thanks for the good words, now I just need to assemble that baby and see how it run.
AA
Let me know I can take your VQ heads to them and ship it back to you. Also now they have the equipement to fabricate the manganese/bronze valve guide.
For the price I think their work is hard to beat.
Hey guys, here is some heads up on the project. Yesterday I started to assemble the heads with the HR hat, shim & spring and so far so good everything is pretty strait forward, so I proceed to put one of the VQ35DE cam and it see how it goes, so after I put the lock ( sorry I dont know how to call that piece in english ) on top of the cam and bolt it, I though that the cam were pretty tight up there but how can I verify this for sure ? I remember back in the old days we used to put some plastic gage between the cam and the heads and torque everything to spec, after what we had to un bolt everything and checked the plastic gage wideness with a chart, then we knew if we where into spec. Now how am I supposed to verify this ? should I just not bother and torque everything and call it a day. This might not be the final set-up as I mentioned before I'll probably buy some knock off cam ( BTW does anyone have a good source to get those at a decent price ? )
On another note I receive the engine gasket kit along with the Toga crank & main bearing from IPP. I'm really surprise to see the very good quality of the AJUSA gasket set, to a point where I'm wondering will it worth to buy the Cometic head gasket ?
The main reason I bought the AJUSA engine gasket kit was for all the other gasket beside the head gasket, this kit was substantially cheeper than the Nissan oem kit. Does anyone know if the AJUSA head gasket would be strong enough to support the engine boost made with the S/C.
On another note I asked Dave B to send me a new set of VQ30DEK rods, I'm finally putting stock rod in the engine for now, since the custom one would take like 3 months to get here and that would compromise the release date of my car. I'll order the beefed up rods sometimes but they would only goes in the engine for winter 2009-2010 while the car is stored for the winter. Dave B was telling me that he knows some people who are running the VQ30DEK stock rods and putting 410HP to the wheel without any problem, so that kind of convince me that I can save a bundle and run boost safely with it. Feel free to share your though and experience.
Have a good day everyone.
AA
On another note I receive the engine gasket kit along with the Toga crank & main bearing from IPP. I'm really surprise to see the very good quality of the AJUSA gasket set, to a point where I'm wondering will it worth to buy the Cometic head gasket ?
The main reason I bought the AJUSA engine gasket kit was for all the other gasket beside the head gasket, this kit was substantially cheeper than the Nissan oem kit. Does anyone know if the AJUSA head gasket would be strong enough to support the engine boost made with the S/C.
On another note I asked Dave B to send me a new set of VQ30DEK rods, I'm finally putting stock rod in the engine for now, since the custom one would take like 3 months to get here and that would compromise the release date of my car. I'll order the beefed up rods sometimes but they would only goes in the engine for winter 2009-2010 while the car is stored for the winter. Dave B was telling me that he knows some people who are running the VQ30DEK stock rods and putting 410HP to the wheel without any problem, so that kind of convince me that I can save a bundle and run boost safely with it. Feel free to share your though and experience.
Have a good day everyone.
AA
Hey guys, here is some heads up on the project. Yesterday I started to assemble the heads with the HR hat, shim & spring and so far so good everything is pretty strait forward, so I proceed to put one of the VQ35DE cam and it see how it goes, so after I put the lock ( sorry I dont know how to call that piece in english ) on top of the cam and bolt it, I though that the cam were pretty tight up there but how can I verify this for sure ? I remember back in the old days we used to put some plastic gage between the cam and the heads and torque everything to spec, after what we had to un bolt everything and checked the plastic gage wideness with a chart, then we knew if we where into spec. Now how am I supposed to verify this ? should I just not bother and torque everything and call it a day. This might not be the final set-up as I mentioned before I'll probably buy some knock off cam ( BTW does anyone have a good source to get those at a decent price ? )
On another note I receive the engine gasket kit along with the Toga crank & main bearing from IPP. I'm really surprise to see the very good quality of the AJUSA gasket set, to a point where I'm wondering will it worth to buy the Cometic head gasket ?
The main reason I bought the AJUSA engine gasket kit was for all the other gasket beside the head gasket, this kit was substantially cheeper than the Nissan oem kit. Does anyone know if the AJUSA head gasket would be strong enough to support the engine boost made with the S/C.
On another note I asked Dave B to send me a new set of VQ30DEK rods, I'm finally putting stock rod in the engine for now, since the custom one would take like 3 months to get here and that would compromise the release date of my car. I'll order the beefed up rods sometimes but they would only goes in the engine for winter 2009-2010 while the car is stored for the winter. Dave B was telling me that he knows some people who are running the VQ30DEK stock rods and putting 410HP to the wheel without any problem, so that kind of convince me that I can save a bundle and run boost safely with it. Feel free to share your though and experience.
Have a good day everyone.
AA
On another note I receive the engine gasket kit along with the Toga crank & main bearing from IPP. I'm really surprise to see the very good quality of the AJUSA gasket set, to a point where I'm wondering will it worth to buy the Cometic head gasket ?
The main reason I bought the AJUSA engine gasket kit was for all the other gasket beside the head gasket, this kit was substantially cheeper than the Nissan oem kit. Does anyone know if the AJUSA head gasket would be strong enough to support the engine boost made with the S/C.
On another note I asked Dave B to send me a new set of VQ30DEK rods, I'm finally putting stock rod in the engine for now, since the custom one would take like 3 months to get here and that would compromise the release date of my car. I'll order the beefed up rods sometimes but they would only goes in the engine for winter 2009-2010 while the car is stored for the winter. Dave B was telling me that he knows some people who are running the VQ30DEK stock rods and putting 410HP to the wheel without any problem, so that kind of convince me that I can save a bundle and run boost safely with it. Feel free to share your though and experience.
Have a good day everyone.
AA
and knock off cams can be found cheapest on ebay new (search: vq35de)
or
check my350z classifieds and the likes of that forum, cause they may just pop up every once in a while, like they do on here
or
check my350z classifieds and the likes of that forum, cause they may just pop up every once in a while, like they do on here
I just measured the AJUSA head gasket and they seem to be between 1.5 mm - 1.65mm thick, look wise they seem to be made of very good quality, even better than the stocker one. I'll post some pics later.