good advice...just got thinking cause I know the 3.5 heads flow much better

 

I'm glad to have ported my VQ30DEK heads then. I had so many people busting my french quebekers **** to not P&P the VQ30DEK heads saying I will scrap them.

I cant wait to hear this engine growl...

 

I'm trying to open my trunk and the lock is jammed, I cant open it with the key, is there any way to open it from the inside, ( dont forget this car is getting rebuild, so there is no power )

I finally open the trunk from going inside by the rear seat.

Thank you

AA

 

Hey guys, I have started to paint some parts yesterday, the first part I dit is the center support that connect to the subframe connector, I'm painting both parts metallic black and I'm adding a couple coats of high temps clear, the center beam came out really nice.

I took some pics this am with my i-phone but I forgot the usb cable so I wont be able to post before tonight. I will also paint the subframe connector that same color.

On another note, I'm currently shopping for a 3" universal intercooler pipping kit, I was able to find few interesting kit, beside the chitty standard hose clamp that every one sell, the pipping is mandrel bend and look fine to me, see it here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-UNI...es#ht_1777wt_0

Now I'm wondering if anyone can direct me to an intercooler that would fit on my 2k1 maxima, it would save me some searching time.

P.S: I'll post some pics tonight.

Thanks

AA

 

Ebay Intercoolers work just fine, as is the same with the universal piping kit you found, they all work. Its just a matter of finding the one you like

 

I'm going 3" all the way as well as the I/O of the intercooler. I think I found something decent so I'm taking the measurement to make sure it will fill the JDUB bumper lower opening. I'm also thinking to get the coldest air possible in the S/C inlet, so I'm looking at making some sort of ram air in front of the bumper. I'm not putting back the air conditioning so it will give some more clearance up front but I need to see if it's feasible, I dont really like the air input being in the fender but I'll see what's possible. Things are going at a good speed now, my friend is coming this pm and we will finish all the sandblasting and sanding, so technically the engine bay will be ready for primer tomorrow, so hopefully I should be able to paint & clear monday. I spoke with Dave B earlier this week and he received all the missing parts I ordered for the engine, so it look like I may drop the engine and all the rotating parts for reciprocating by next friday or the following monday as I no longer work at the office on monday. If everything fall into place we may have the engine in the car before the end of this year.

Here some shots of the center beam painted & clear coated:

 

Hey guys, I need to take a decision on the blower model I want to purchase, unfortunately I was unable to find a used kit so far so I'm tired of searching and such
and not knowing when I'll find one.

I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a brand new S/C, get all the missing part I need to have a fully working set-up. Now the question is wich model, should I get ? I'm very tempted by the V1 T trim but I heard it's loud and I want to keep a some how low profile set-up.

I was under the impression there was a V2 T trim available but I cant seem to find it on Vortech website, I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say.

Also the V3 seem like very efficient, so I think it worth to consider it:

1- http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...p=6&cat_key=17
2- http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...p=4&cat_key=16
3- http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...148&cat_key=26

I'd like to hear what some of you would have to say about this, this is my first blower
purchase set-up so I'm not bragging anything here but would rather get the opinion of the more experienced with S/C.

AA

 

I don't know much about SC, but I'm sure someone will chim in here.

but IMO I would go with the V1 t trim. I think the whine of a SC is awesome

 

Just to make sure, I have to order a Vortech CCW (counter clock wise ) ?

 

Ok I finally, decided to order the brand new Vortech V2 T trim, fully polished, I'm ordering it true Garage Five of BC - Canada. I also ordered the 3" I/C pipping made of 6061 aluminum, all the pipe come with bead and is 2 mm thick. I just need to get a confirmation on the intercooler size, here is what I want to order but I need someone to confirm me that it will be good enough for my 2k1: http://treadstoneperformance.com/pro...10+Intercooler

 

I tried the 350z LIM to the 3.0 heads, I have pics if you are interested, there is a lot of porting needed to be done to make it work

 

This has arrived this am, apparently a pics worth 1000 words ! Here you go...

 

NO Pillow ball joints FTW

 

mmmm JIC>>>>FTW

 

The rear one doesn't have Pillow ball mount, but the front have it. One thing I see is
the Pillow ball mount is bigger on the JIC versus the D2 or other coil over system.

I was also told that those can be replaced, if excessive wear is experienced over time.

I cant wait to put those on.

AA

 

Very nice!

 

I'm really impressed with the quality of the JIC. I didn't really had the time to completely inspect them but the quick check I did was very positive. I'm really impress with the quality of the build, JIC put all the attention to details and deliver it,
in the VIP, what I got today totally justify my spending.

On a quick note i see they put a bearing underneath the botom of the spring, so it can move freely without making the metal on metal sound. On top of the spring there is hard rubber coil spring insulator that doesn't require to be replaced by ES coil spring insulator ( like when I had the D2 to avoid the freaking noise they where making )

 

Those JICs look so nice. I think in a year or two I will go with this setup.

 

I was doing some reading about the vq30dd pistons as they run an 11:1 CR in a vq30 block, I figure if I run the knockoff s1s with 10.9mm lift I should be okay and stay under the 11mm mark. But I really would like to hear your input doublea and all the others who may read. I would do just some small porting on the heads nothing serious and stick with the 00vi IM setup for now till I can figure out what would be better. So anyone have any input on it?

 

I believe you will have to replace the combo piston/rods, the wrist pin are bigger on the VQ30DET. But let me guess you might end up making more power than Dandy max with this set-up having a little C/R should yield some more hp/tq.

BTW I have the following for sale:

VQDEK rods bolts/ nuts new 35$ + shipping
VQDEK main & head bolts new 100$ + shipping
VQDEK AJUSA head gasket ( I've decided to get stronger gasket like cometic) but this one would be perfect for your build. 50$ + shipping
VQDEK Toga valve seal - new 25$ + shipping

 

This is the VQ30DD which has the same wrist pin, I will still get a brand new pin, the rods I can reuse them. I was going to get the IPP kit for $1,200 which has everything I need, but finding out the the DD pistons are only $47 a piece so $300 for pistons and $100 for new rings.

I will probably get you on those new rod bolts and nuts, let me just see how pay day goes tomorrow, I am ordering my WB02 cause of the 3" exhaust I thinks time I tune it out myself, but I could always put it off till december when the exhaust actually goes in.

 

doublea PMD YOU

 

Ok I see, sound like an affordable way to get more hp, the potential of the 3.0 is definitely there we just need to be more creative, or pay big $$$. I can keep the rod bolts/nuts for you, I dont need the money now if your tight on budget, just let me know. Did you get the new Cattman 3" or you custom build one ?

 

Get me the shipping cost for the bolt/nut combo, I'll paypal you tomorrow (pm me the details on your paypal)

I built my own custom 3" exhaust. I'm widening the y-pipe joing on my headers and making 3" all the way back

 

Pm me your adress & I'll find a cheap way to send it to you, I'll let you know shortly.

Keep up the good work.

 

Hey guys, I just contacted Cometic to buy some stronger head gasket. I spoke with Elie and he basically asked what thickness i'm looking for ? I have not clue but here is my thinking:

First the stock head gasket are .030 now my VQ30DEK heads has been planned and .005 was shave to make sure the deck is perfectly flat. Would it be safe to say that if I order a .036 I'll stay within spec as they dont make .035

The Arias piston I'm throwing in the engine are 9.5:1 C/R, so if my reasoning is good then the .036 head gasket should keep the C/R very close to 9.5:1 right ?

Now should I consider ordering a little thicker let say .040 wich is the maximum they do. I know that might drop the C/R even further wich might not be a bad thing but does anyone can shim in and help me with that aspect, I really want to order the gasket today since I want to drop the engine at the shop by next week.

Thank you

 

BTW I forgot to say that yesterday I spoke with Tim at Speed Force, I believe they are in San-Diego. Long story short I saw the new intake they are about to release for the 5.5th gen and wow this intake is really nice, anyway I've asked him if he would be willing to custom make one for my DEK and he said no problem, I need to send them my upper intake manifold since it was ported and port match with my ported & polish LIM. He said they would charge me around 1200$. This one would be specifically made to match my own setting. I'm shipping my purple painted DEK UIM monday, they say it would take 2-3 weeks but I'm willing to wait 8-9 weeks.

 

Hey guys, here some head's up on the project.

I received my new stock crank pulley, so I now have all the engine parts ready to be drop at the shop monday for the engine reciprocating, that alone should take about 2 weeks. While speaking with Enrico at National the shop I'm dealing with, he said it would be ideal to have the C/R at 8.5 something sorry I dont recall if he said 8.5:1 or 8.5:3 anyway you get the whole picture here. My Arias piston are like 9.5:1 C/R, so let say i use the Ajusa gasket wich is .060 - .065 will that lower the C/R a little bit more right ?

Few days ago I spoke with Elie at Cometic, he said they can go to a maximum of .040 for performance gasket, the stock one being .030 I had previously check the AJUSA thickness but it was like .060 -.065 I still have a set in the garage but I'm wondering if I should order the cometic anyway or use the thicker AJUSA gasket ?

I need and answer like asap, as I have to take a decision now so I can order the gasket from Cometic monday and have ship over night, if this is the way to go.

P.S: I re measured the AJUSA head gasket it is .043 so it's not the .060 -.065 I tough it was, I mistakenly measured the inside part of the gasket where the ring is, and it is effectively thicker.

Feel free to share your experience or opinion on this.

Thanks

AA

 

For the one it may interest my never installed JDUB complete body kit is up for sale: 600$ or BO

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ead-bolts.html

 

We just finished to washed the car with PPG DX579, I'm letting the car to dry until tomorrow, then we will fill all the seam with industrial automotive silicon. We also have a couple of small repair to do, clean up some tape glue that is still visible at some spot we also have to mask the car but that will be done in an hour.

Worst case scenario is the car will only be ready to prime tomorrow at the end of the day, I will probably put the primer in the evening and have a long night. The base coat and clear coats will have to wait until next saturday since I have to go back at the office tuesday.

Happy thanks giving all.

 

Hey guys, I drop the VQ30DEK block along with 4 box of parts to my shop this pm.

The engine is finally getting balanced and assembling, apparently my engine might be ready before christmas otherwise it will be ready the first or second week of january 09.

By the time the engine come back the engine bay will be painted and clear coated the sub frame connector should be installed along with, suspension & direction and few other parts.

 

Hey guys, here some pics of the I/C installation. With my friend it took us about
3 hours to make all the whole and fit everything, we only need to make a bracket on top of the I/C so the hood latch is fix tightly and the I/C is also solidly fixed.

Enjoy !

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0373.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0374.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0375.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0376.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0378.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0379.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0380.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0383.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0383.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0385.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0387.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0390.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0392.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0393.jpg

 

Hey guys, while waiting for the engine to get back from the shop, I'm working on little project here & there. I have decided to give a try and polish the Cattman Gen III used headers that I bought recently so here you go, only one done at this time:

 

The shops technician called me this am to tell me they have check the Arias piston clearance with my original block is .007 wich exceed the maximum tolerance, he said in an ideal situation the clearance should be .003 - .0045.

Basically they said if they assemble the engine with this tolerance apparently I'm going to ear the piston clapping when the engine is cold, I'm not very enthusiast at seing this. I have 2 options at this time, for less than 1500$ cdn they can sleeve the engine block and set the ideal tolerance with the Arias piston, or I can replace the block.

I left a VM to Dave B, since I want to verify the cost of a brand new VQ30DEK block, wich I suspect is going to be in the 2500$ US + range, but I might be plain wrong. If this is the case then I'm going to have the engine sleeved, the technician said they will also put some pin near to the deck so that apparently solidify the sleeve near the deck, all in all this would cost me 1300$ -1400$ cdn. I need some input on a brand new block as I cant take a chance with a used one, since it will probably have a very similar tolerance compare to mine.

 

Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
110002Y900 $1,937.23 $0.00 $1,574.00
Engine - Cylinder block
Cylinder block, maxima - vq30de 2000 - 2001

Not a bad price but shipping and who knows when you would get it

 

Kevlo911, thanks for the infos, but Enrico the shop foreman just called me again, not a good news, the Arias piston that I got have a smaller wrist pin so they dont match with the VQ30DEK stock rods, so at this point my choice are changing again.
Because of the Arias is a no go, than the block is no longer an issue, let me explain:

I have to get a new set of custom low C/R piston, so I'm going to order a set with .020 oversize and the then shop is going to bore my actual block and call it a day.

I'm looking at ordering custom piston with 8.5:1 C/R but the question is which brand should I get ? Any good advice is welcome at this point as I need to order asap.

Thanks again to this great community.

AA

 

Check the boosted forum, I have seen low compression pistons for vq30 but I forgot which brand people used.

 

or you could try and locate the DET pistons

 

I just spoke with Nick Arias the 3rd, and they are going to fabricate me a set of custom 8.5:1 or 9.5:1 low C/R pistons that will work with the stock rods, all this for 992$ and that include performance ring, wrist pin and lock, delivery time frame 4 weeks. Not being a racer I'm wondering if I should get the 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, apparently for a street machine I was suggest to go with 9.5:1 but with the 8.5:1 it would be more suited for a track car.

What would you guys go for ?

For now this is the best I could find and the fastest delivery.

Thanks for helping.

AA

 

I don't think there is enough difference between the two that one would limit you to just street or track...

if it were me I would pick 8.5:1