I already have 9:5.1 C/R piston.

I had a talk with Dave B about the component from Japan but he said that the parts will take forever to arrive, I believe he had a set of head bolts on order since January and he might not receive it before the end of the year.

 

Any head fasteners the VQ35 can use, the VQ30 can use as well. VQ30 head bolts were used in the early VQ35's and are the weakest of the bunch as far as stockers go.



You don't need all the "2 bolt" thing to hold 700 HP either...

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf (you can ignore the head gasket info for obvious reasons)
and
http://www.my350z.com/forum/forced-i...3-0-build.html

 

nismology. Thanks a bunch for this info. I just pick-up the phone, called Dave B and order the VQ35 HR head bolts, luckily my order of VQ30DEK heads bolts hasn't shipped out yet so he didn't mind taking it back. At 2.95$ each the VQ35 Hr head bolts are dirt cheap.

With 2 kids and a business to run I dont have as much time to read and search as I would like so again I'm very thankful to all of you who are helping me in this adventure.

One thing I've been also wondering for a while but I always forget to ask, is should I replace all the lifter/bucket ?

 

Holly mother ... Buckets are 16.39$ a piece, 24 are required = 393.36$

Called Dave B again he said I shouldn't have to replace those.

 

You shouldn't, I didn't replace mine when I did my DEK. You may have to change a few shims out to get proper lash on the cams though.

 

I already got the Hr spring & shim, I bought twice the number or shim in order to do a double shim set-up, as we have discussed some time ago.

 

exactly what I thought too, arp head bolts are not worth it when you have the HR bolts, 3 x 16 = 48 = WIN! a great piece of mind in my opinion. I have my shims, valve springs, and head bolts just sitting around. I am still contemplating what cams to use tho.....

3.5 stockers I think are the best for S/C cause of the overlap, only problem is I don't think there will be much of a power gain with them after 7,200 rpms, I plan for 7,500 to 8,000 somewhere in there. The JWT s1s knockoffs have a nice duration, not too aggressive just right IMO. I can't really decide. What cams are you using doublea?

 

I have purchase a set of VQ35 cam from an org member, got it for 100$ but as you said there is other good choice to make like the S1 knockoffs, down the road I may pick-up one set and call it a day. I've received many neg criticism for using the VQ35 so I may just give up on this aspect.

 

well the benefits of using the OEM 3.5s over just the 3.0s are the valve lift (10%increase) and 2* less overlap, which is great for SC.

I may do the S1 knockoffs to be like dandy cause I would like to reach his power level and push beyond it.

 

Oh ya ! the power level of Dandy's VQ was incredible, can you imagine once S/C'd...

 

and he still had room to stretch his legs dont ya think ?

I seriously think with the head work I am doing I should be able to see numbers 10+whp more then his

 

I was referring to the shims on top of the buckets (ie wrt to setting lash) not the washers under the springs..

 

I didn't recall there was shims up there, interesting I need to take a close look.

Thanks for the precision.

 

no shims to my recollection either,

 

Are we not still talking about a VQ30? There's definitely shims. The VQ35, no, it's a one piece bucket, but on a DEK most definitely there's shims.

 

^ +1 All VQ30's use shims on top of the buckets to adjust valve lash.


Are you running 2 "shims" on top of the one that's already there? "Double shimming" = adding one to the existing one.

 

I'll be running 2 x HR shims per valve, the old shim wont be used.

 

Gotcha.

 

Dandy:

I have taken a look at the bucket but I have no clue as how to open it, but my guess is that the shims must be underneath the top cover. When I'll be assembling the heads I will check the valve lash and will hopefully report in this thread and see what needs to be done.

 

Top cover? Not sure what you mean.. the shims sit in a recess on top of the lifters (buckets). The shim is the surface the cam lobe wipes across. To adjust lash different shim thicknesses are available.

 

Ok got you, I though that the shim was underneath to what I refer as " the cover " but I now understand that it is not a cover but the shim itself. Sorry I didn't use the proper English words, my bad, even though my English is not that bad I can still learn at 47.

 

dandy what double shims did you use?

 

No worries, I just didn't clue in.


Stock VQ30, I had a set from the old DE and a set from the DEK. (both are ~1mm thickness each, so total of 2 mm means the install height on the HR spring goes down to 36 mm from 37 mm (IIRC)).

 

I'm thinking of bringing it down to 35.5.

 

How do you intend to do that ? Adding a .5mm flat washer underneath the shims ?

What would be the benefit to reduce to 35.5mm beside stiffening the spring a little more ?

 

By just using one 2.5" mm washer. The .5mm reduction will give me 10 lbs more pressure at the max lift of the cams I will run eventually (11mm....progressive rate FTW...seriously). I'll still have a .5mm safety margin before bind but I'm not completely sure if that's sufficient.

 

3.5 valvetrain mass is less than the DEK, and I ran 11 mm lift cams to 8000+ with no problems, you should be fine with 36.

 

My worry isn't float per se but valve bounce. 'Asides, JWT S1 ramp rates are mild since they are designed with stock valve springs in mind. But maybe I'm just worrying too much.

 

I think you likely are, but granted I didn't model the cams you're using so I can't say for sure. I can tell you with the S1's there's no bounce or float predicted until around 8200, and keep in mind that's with the heavier valvetrain, so it's very unlikely you'll have any issue. Your call...

 

Hey guys, it's OT but I got to let the cat out of the bag for the one who are not aware. I'm actually shopping for a clean 2k1-2k2-2k3 BMW M5. Unless I cant find one for my budget, I'd go for an M3. I found 2 M3 locally in very very good condition at an incredible price ( a 2k5 with 37K miles and a 2001 with 100K KM but both have been very well maintain. On the M5 side, I have narrowed down my research on 3-4 very clean car, the cleanest of all is the 2k1 with less than 30K miles on it. I'd prefer a 2k3 M5 but I only found 3 that interest me and it's going to be hard to nail it since most sellers are not incline to deal. I'll give you some feed back later this week.

 

Hey guys, I purchased the M5 today: http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...-2k3-m5-3.html

 

As some of you are aware, the M5 deal is off, I'm not going thru all the detail but this supposedly very nice car turned out to be a POS that was severely hit and badly repaired and formost never declared.

Luckily the purchase was conditional to the final inspection by an independant BMW dealer, so when I got the final report this monday from the Chicago BMW dealer I almost had an hart attack ( the car doesn't come from that dealer ) this car was very good looking just from the esthetic aspect.

I wont disclose all the thing that needed to be repair on this car since it would be useless but let's me say that this was real POS car that looked very good. So for now I'm putting an end to this project as I'm going to focus on finishing my clean 2k1 and put her back the road next spring.

The good new is I have a very good budget to finish her up and hopefully post new pics in the following weeks. I'm probably going to bit the bullet and order a V3 in the next few weeks.

Dont get desperate as my VQ30DEK heads should be ready soon and I will definitely post some pics as well.

 

hey doublea, if you don't mind sharing can you let me know what you are paying to have the headwork done? I know that you did your own P&P etc.
All shops in my area are quite expensive to do this kind of work.

 

I'm paying 600$ CDN, that include the valve job, regrind of the stock valve, installation of the manganese/bronze valve guide, they are also cleaning the heads to ensure there is not particule or oil passage that is block. I spoke with the shop owner since my head have been drop a month ago, and he said I should get those in 2-3 weeks max, they have been more busy than usual.

 

I need to buy some of the missing parts soon so I need advise.

1- New injectors ( I'm shooting for 400HP to the ground )
2- Do I need new fuel rails ? Wich one ?
3- Engine management for tuning and rev limiter removal, timing etc
4- New cams wich one seem the best for my set-up ?
5- My auto tranny will need to be bullet proof the cost is about 4000$ US, can I do a clean trouble free 5 or 6 speed transplant for that money
6-For the blower should I get a used V2 and have it rebuild or does a V3 would be a better route ?
7- Wich side the MAF should be installed ?
8- Suggestion for an intercooler
9-I'd like to buy a new performance radiator but wich one would be direct swap
10-The suspension, I want this car to have a decent ride, I'm not putting back the D2
so should I just put some illumina & a good set of spring of will Tein or JIC coilover will made me forget about all the noise and trouble with the D2 ?

That is what I cant think for now, I'll be ready to order all that stuff by next week or so and the way thing are going the car should be all back together by jan-feb 09.

Thanks for any good advise.

AA

 

1) 555cc TT 300zx Injectors
2) Nope stock fuel rails are just fine
3) Emanage Ultimate
4) JWT S1's
5) Built 5spd with PAR gears is around $4500m or 6spd swap ($2k?)
6) Get a V2 T-Trim or Si Trim....if you want to spend the money and have no oil lines, get a V3
7) Get a 300zx MAF, and put it on the Charged Side
8) Intercooler has to be custom, something close to a 3" inlet/outlet
9) Griffen Radiator
10) JIC Vip's are the best money can buy.



Good luck man. I went a similiar route, but with a 3.5. I was 400+ at the wheels, but the car is in the body shop right now, so I'm doing some engine work. Good luck!

 

1- So TT 555 are direct drop in LIM and fit the DEK fuel rail
3-Was the company going out of biz ?
5-6 speed if I can get the help & good instruction to install...
6-Does a V2 S trim can be upgraded to a T trim
7- Got it
8-I asked but that's what I really tough
9- OK
10-Very expensive but you get for what you paid. I'll see what king of money remained after all the engine & drive train part is spend.

Thanks for the advise.

AA

 

1- New injectors ( I'm shooting for 400HP to the ground )
Deustchworks 550cc or the 300zx ones

2- Do I need new fuel rails ? Wich one ?
No OEM fuel rails can handle up to 500hp+ I would suggest a FPR though, just get one of those nismo ones on ebay.

3- Engine management for tuning and rev limiter removal, timing etc
Emanage ultimate, dandy should be able to tell you some details about rev limit removal.

4- New cams wich one seem the best for my set-up ?
either oem 3.5s or s1s, I expressed concern about the potential power after 7,200 rpms with oem 3.5 cams, so thats why I am going with the s1 knockoffs on ebay.

5- My auto tranny will need to be bullet proof the cost is about 4000$ US, can I do a clean trouble free 5 or 6 speed transplant for that money
6-For the blower should I get a used V2 and have it rebuild or does a V3 would be a better route ?
$4000 for what? I just a used tranny for $75, getting a better torque converter for ~$300 and have the VB mod job done (~$400-500), then buying a supra stick with paddle shifters and calling it a day. The auto tranny will last you long enough and when it goes, buy another rebuilt one, throw you TC on and the modded VB. I believe doing a 5sp is around $1,500 the 6sp is a bit more. I'm staying auto as of late

Forgot to mention A tranny cooler is going to be definetly neccessary for your setup.

7- Wich side the MAF should be installed ?
I would try and run a mafless setup, better potential IMO

8- Suggestion for an intercooler
Ebay ones work fine from what I hear

9-I'd like to buy a new performance radiator but wich one would be direct swap
I hear the koyo direct replacement radiators are just fine and for 150 its not bad.

10-The suspension, I want this car to have a decent ride, I'm not putting back the D2
so should I just put some illumina & a good set of spring of will Tein or JIC coilover will made me forget about all the noise and trouble with the D2 ?

Take a look at my sig, I have agility on the line to develop us some nice coilovers. They just emailed me a week ago and have plans to start developing them soon, just need to get some things together and get people who are seriously interested to put down a down payment for them. If you want more details PM me, but if we get them to start with in the next month, we will see them by january-febuary 2009.

 

3- Engine management for tuning and rev limiter removal, timing etc
Emanage ultimate, dandy should be able to tell you some details about rev limit removal.


Wouldn't the UTEC be a better choice?

 

Agree with pretty much everything they have said.

3- I say EU.

7- Run a MAF. Dave is right, it can be limiting, however you're only going to 400whp. Hell, Joe's GT-TT went up to 1000whp on a MAF setup... Look at the 300ZX maf, other than that I am not sure what other options there are.