Just ordered the e-manage ultimate with the harness > from Import Car Parts GD.

 

The shop call to say the A/T is ready to pick up so I'm going to get it this friday or saturday. I'm also getting the 2nd headers, engine bolts and others parts from the chrome. I'll definitely post some pics for you to see how it look like.

I'm ordering the few missing parts this week and should be finishing the rear end within a week, once the Cattman left muffler is in we will be able to make the final mock-up of the dual exhaust. I'm going to order all the piping we need for the fabrication of the rear exhaust section. I might just assemble the section, tack weld them in place and once the fitment is confirm just bring them to a friend's shop, where they will weld all the section with a tig welder.

At this point my goal is to have the car completed by the end of september or early october. That doesn't include the body work and the paint job wich will be done during this coming winter but only after the car is up & running.

 

Things are looking good, can't wait to see her finished. Good luck bro.

 

Thanks. I'm getting a little anxious to crank it up, after almost 3 year without driving the max that will be fun to drive it again, but for now I need to concentrate on finishing her up.

Here is some of the stuff I need to finish.

Battery relocation kit.
Parking cable (2)
Evap box hoses connection
Diamond plate rear panel
Rear brake installation
Dual exhaust
Engine bolts & all the visible bolts in the engine bay.
Engine & tranny.
Engine harness to repair ( it was cut in order to paint the engine bay )
Emanage Ultimate wiring harness.
LC1 o2 wide band installation.
Oil & Tranny cooler.
Replacing windshield

That pretty much resume what's left to do.

 

Glad to see it's coming together! I went with the eManage Ultimate as well. Your car's come a long way, can't wait to see it run!

 

It was nice to be on vacation for 3 weeks with the family, but now that summer is almost over, I'm back in full speed to finish her up, so I'm planning to do a lot over the week-end. Stay tune for more pics over the week-end.

Thanks all for the great support, without you guys the project would be half way to where it stand now. I have a question, so if anyone can answer that would help me a lot.

On the firewall there is a splitter for the brake, there is 4 connections, 2 that connects the rear brake line ( the 2 connections on the right side if you face the car ) and 2 other one that goes to the ABS actuator, so here is the tricky parts: The 2 left connections on the splitter has to be connect to the actuator, I need to know if the top connection on the firewall splitter goes to the left or the right on the ABS actuator ? If not clear enough you can give me a shout on my cell: 514-796-3151


I had to custom fabricate the 2 brake line that goes on the splitter since Nissan no longer fabricate them, and here I'm stuck not knowing which one goes where on the ABS actuator.

 

I just pick-up the A/T, all I can say is wow, it look really nice with the chrome stuff....

Basically the shop replaced all the seals & clutch pack, the torque converter has been beefed-up, they basically welded the fin in the TC but also put stronger spring. They also installed the JDM shift kit, apparently it's going to shift way much faster without the knocking that some people experienced with many stage 2 VB.

I'll post pics later today.

 

Any more details about your "JDM shift kit" ? Sounds like something I could use for racing...

 

It's a local distributor that is importing the shift kit from Japan and sell it to shop, this is all I know about that, but I'll try to get some info on it, you will want the SK for racing though.

I'll let you know as soon as I can.

A+

AA

 

Ok now here is the latest pics:








Link to other pics:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_1032.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_1031.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_1033.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_1034.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_1035.jpg

 

The engine and transmission look .... incredible.

This Maxima should be in the car shows. You gotta show it before you drive in on the streets.

Again:


.

 

Thanks - I would appreciate it. With the new engine I'm building, I think I'm gonna need all the help I can get.

 

Even though I'm anxious to drive her back, I kind of realize that I wont have the liberty to drive her anytime, it's going to be pretty much a show car that I will only drive in the nicest summer day. Most of the tough works is done, it's pretty much all the smaller thing that need to be finish, before she's ready for the big show off day. We should be able to drop the engine & tranny before the end of this month.

 

One thing I forgot, when I did the porting on the UIM, I polished one side thinking it would be the front UIM, but my bad I happen to polished the rear side, lol

Now I dont feel like spending 2 days to polish the front side so I think I'm going to removed it and send it to the chrome shop and have it black chromed.

 

Mr Brown has just deliver me that:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...ima/Photo9.jpg

 

Oooo...


I can't wait to install mine...I've had it since December.

That engine looks stunning btw!

Quick question. Are you still running the stock 3.5 cams, or did you change your cam choice?

 

I'm set with the 3.5 cam for year one, but I will eventually get more agressive cam, like the Crower 264 or 272.

 

Sweet.

I'll be having my cams installed as soon as I install my eManage. So I'll be posting dyno results.

 

I just had an incredible boating week-end, didn't work for a second but had plenty of fun with the wife & kids. Lol But I'm back to biz tonight, I'm finishing the rear brakes and will work on the evap box hose connection might also install the battery relocation box in the trunk, that should do the evening. I'm still hoping to drop the engine/ AT maybe in 2 or 3 weeks max.

 

I have sent another batch of parts to be chrome yesterday.

Alternator ( show chrome )
Back drain plate ( black chrome )
Extended coolant adapter ( black chrome )
Both rear disk brake ( show chrome )
Both Moog end links & nuts ( show chrome )
Both tie rods end ( show chrome )
All the upper intake manifold bolt & nuts ( show chrome )
All the throttle body bolt & nuts ( show chrome )
All the suspension & drive train bolts nuts, washer ( show chrome )
All the engine bays, bolts, nuts & washer ( show chrome )
2 front coolant line ( black chrome ) the aluminum part that connect it to the engine
( show chrome )
Both rear wheel hub. ( show chrome )

I'm done with the chrome stuff for now, as I already spent way over my budget but I couldn't just pass for the last remaining parts, when you're crazy you're crazy...this car is going to be insane, and who know maybe I could win few show car contest in the future.

 

wow, its been a while since I was in here.

Nice job DoubleA

So are you doing anything special for the body of the car, like the J-dub kit or stillen?

 

I still have the Jdub body kit but I'm not going to install it. I'll get a stillen front & rear and use the Jdub side though. I'm thinking of doing some custom body work but nothing is final at this point, but I got few idea for custom stuff > headlight, hood, fender... I think we will start to work on the body early dec.

 

I understand this is to be a show car, but keep in mind the chroming process reduces the tensile strength in hard ware and structural pieces. Also the more chrome on an engine the hotter it will run, just think survival blanket. I recommend you paint your radiator core flat black to compensate.

Major props though,very nice looking.

 

Thanks for the comments. I'm aware of the chrome on the engine, but beside the engine cover & headers, the chrome parts are pretty much bolts/nuts/brackets/wheel hub/ suspension parts and visible part on the engine bay so I'm not worried about the heat aspect since I live up North, summer are nothing like the temp in the south. This car is getting and oil & tranny cooler and I'll get some very efficient radiator fan with a temp switch. But I see your point, if I would have been racing I wouldn't have spent that money on all that chrome stuff.

 

The waiting time has never been so long, still waiting for the last bunch of parts to be ready from the chrome shop, I'm going to drop by this am and see when everything will be ready. In the meantime I received the Goodridge SS brake line & parking brake cable. I have to remove a broken bolt on the drain back plate, one of the bolt snap when I installed the drain back plate. I didn't work much on the car lately since the remaining work is pretty much re-assembling everything together. Does any one know a good place to buy rear wheel bearing ? when I brought the rear wheel hub to the chrome shop they had to take off the bearing, and the shop foreman told me they cant put it back since those are crap now, I cant seem to find the rear one as all the online selling place I found only carry the front one.

Thanks

AA

 

you cant buy only a rear wheel bearing, its part of the hub i believe. At least that whats every shop i asked told me. so i wound (sp?) up having to buy a new hub for 140 from an internet shop.
front you can buy the bearings, back the whole hub assembly.
sorry to say but unless somebody chimes in different then i think you wasted some money. did the shop break the bearing when they removed it?

P.S. ive been following the thread for a long time, looks beautiful.

 

Thanks for the input but also for following this thread. I'm going to give a call to Dave B and see if the dealer can just order the bearing separately, otherwise I wont have a choice but to buy another set of rear hub and see if we can gently pull the bearing and install in the chromed hub. A build like this is full of surprise, but I'll get thru it one way or another.

Yesterday I pick up a bunch of parts and again the quality of the work is flawless. The rear rotor where supposed to only have the center chromed but the shop chrome it entirely, so I'm going to keep em for show only. I'll post some pics after breakfast.

Stay tune.

AA

 

 

OMG i'm blinded by the light LOL

good god all that reflecting chrome is awesome on an engine

 

She's coming back to life slowly but surely. Lol

 

Chrome gonna mess up the rotors?


Everything is looking good man!

 

I'm actually keeping the chromed rotor to show only. At first I asked the shop to only chrome
the center of the rotor, the shop owner kind of make me a gift and chromed them all for the same price. He mentioned that many car & bike owner have their rotor chrome and they use is that way, obviously the chrome will fade off when braking but still the center and the side will remain clean.

 

damn AA lookin greaT

 

Thanks man, all the good words I received from you guys has really help me to keep up with the project. This has been a very long journey with a lots of technical issues, but I'm seeing the light on the tunnel as we say here. I still have a couple of very challenging things to work out but one at a time should lead me where I'm supposed to go.

 

Hey guys, I hope you are all doing fine. I've been working on many small things & fixes. On the not so fun side, I broke one of the bolt that's on the drain back plate, so I have to figure out a way to remove that biatch. On a better note, I decided to re-do all the engine bay & engine hoses since I didn't like the look of black rubber on the engine so I'm using Russel SS hoses, I also use Earl's clip wich make a nice finishing, the hoses & connectors are expensive but at this point it looked cheap to not do it that way. I will also use Russell fitting for fuel or where there is higher pressure, I want to make sure no hoses will pop out because of weak attach or crap hoses. I only made few hoses so far but that give a good idea of what it's going to look like.

Yesterday I went to the chrome shop and saw the alternator cover all chromed, gee that's simply amazing, they are also working on the starter wich is going to be also very nice, I'll let you judge of the quality once I have those parts in hand next week.

In the mean time here are some pics with some of the SS hoses and Earl's clip.

 

Hey guys, I will be picking up the last parts at the shop this coming monday, so I will be ready to install the engine & A/T very soon. Just to recapitulate some discussions that has taken place on this thread, I was suggest to start the engine and tune it with everything stock ie: injectors, stock fpr and maf, then hooked up the EU and make sure the car run smooth, I'll have to drive the car around for about 500 miles in order to break in the engine, once done I'll drop the engine fossil oil and poor in mobile one synthetic oil.

This is what I have so far:

1- EU & harness
2- LC-1 wide band & gauges
3- Brand new upgraded 2k1 MAF ( I believe Z32 maf is not suited for 5th gen )
4- I was told to replace the stock FPR and use a Nismo FPR
5- I need to get the DW 550's

What else beside the above mentioned do I need ?

I can probably read for 2 days and get the answers around here, but with all that I have to do beside the car > Majore home renovation, a business to run and 2 kids to take care of, it would be honest to say " I NEED HELP FIGURING OUT THIS ASPECT "

As for the maf wich one the boosted 5th genner are using ? I have a brand new upgraded 2k1 MAF wich I thought would be good but what do I know about that aspect.

Today I'm taking care of the battery relocation in the trunk. I will also finish the left rear brake assembly. I will pick up Russel SS lines & Earl's clip tomorrow and will finish all the hoses this week.

The black box set-up is not finished yet, last week my cousin came here and I took some pics of his stock black box set-up but it still not clear how to hooked up everything back together. The pics where taken underneath the car so I dont have a one pics showing all the set-up, I'll have to ask my cousin to come to a local garage where we will put the car on a lift and take a global pics of the black box set-up, but before I ask him, if anyone has a high rez pics showing it, that would help me big time.

I'm willing to give free stuff and pay for shipping to anyone who can help me for that aspect, I have a bunch of new spare parts laying around ie: head bolts, valve seals, crank seal, etc. I have the schematic drawing but I'm not en engineer and the drawing is hard to figure out.

Cheers to all.

AA


Oh one thing i forgot, is there any specific thermostat I should use ? One already came with Matty's V1 kit, but I want to replace the one on the engine, but dont get me wrong I can buy a stock thermostat but since my engine will see boost after the engine is break in, so which one do the F/I guys use ?

Thanks again

 

Hey doublea for that EU and harness, I have a friend who makes those units plug and play

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...harnesses.html

But from your list that looks just about everything you need that I can think of as far as fuel system and air control goes.

You could get a Big Bore MAF housing from a Land Rover....let me parts search and Ill find one for you before tonight. The housing has an inner diameter of 3" and you put in the MAF sensor from the maxima in the new BB Housing and viola. This should help from maxing out the MAF sensor at 500hp at least LOL. I think your gonna break that.

 

Thanks man, that's great I'm going to contact him and order a harness RF now. I'm also going to order that Nismo FPR, new injectors asap. If you can find me that TB, that would be a great idea, I have a bored out TB that is about 69 mm, but I guess getting one that is 3" would def help the engine breath better.

BTW you should have said voila, cuz viola in french mean rapping a girl. I know it's not what you meant and it's rather a typing mistake. Lol

 

here is a larger bore maf...you will have to swap in your sensor

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LAND-...Q5fAccessories

 

Ok thanks for the link, I'm going to order one now asap. I just got the security torx set so now can remove the maf from the adapter. Kyle sent me a pm about the harness, now I need to find a 2k1 ecu with the harness so he can make the EU harness. Depending on cost I might just do the wiring myself, I already got pretty much everything to do it but I thought I was too lazy to do it, but an ECU with the harness is going to run me 200$ + so like I said I might just have do it myself. Yesterday I started the car wiring, thing are going very well, I kind of cleaned the mess, I'm trying to make it nice & clean ( will post some pics later... ) On another note, the parts were not ready at the shop so I'll have to wait another week or so. In the meantime, I want to finish the wiring but also the battery relocation, parking brake etc.