I would also like to know what kind of NA gains are possible with this. Any downside to running a constant 15-16v to the coils? Melting, failing...etc?

 

Impressive mods list - any track experiences ??

About NA gains - if you have no ignition failures, then boosting your coil voltage won't make a difference. Generally, 1 spark = 1 bang. It's when you're using a power adder of some sort so that your combustion chamber pressures go up, that's when you begin to have ignition failures.

The first sign is that the top end is weak - great acceleration in the lower gears but higher gears seem to take too long to max out. The more boost or spray, the worse the problem. One solution is to gap down your plugs, like to .030", and see if the car pulls harder. This is not the best solution, because at very small gaps, you can have ignition failure too.

I spray a lot (at the moment, 175-shot with two stages), and with a .035" gap and 15 volts on the coils, my motor pulls like a rocket up to fuel-cut, and I've had voltage boost for three years with no coil damage.

.

 

No track experiences yet. I'm still trying to figure out what's holding this motor back. Dynoed 215 whp. Passed compression and leak down test. Swapped out all injectors, coils, crank and cam sensors. The only thing that really stands out is timing at idle is 6* and I cant get it to 15*. Oh, and I'm missing the condenser in the ignition circuit.

For that reason I thought maybe I would give this a shot.

 

That does seem a little low - but my old 3.5 dynoed at 225 WHP when NA. Much more w/nitrous... You might consider replacing the ignition capacitor - it makes a difference to coil voltage.

 

Yesterday I tap the brake line successfully, was fairly easy to do, I wanted to avoid changing the entire line, so this cheap fix is as good as new, see the pics link below:

I also turn the S/C oil feed & switch so it's no longer in the axle way.

I received the blaZt kit, I just need to buy the netbook now. The power supply also came in today. I see there is a charger adaptor that goes in the 12 volts car adaptor and the output is like a computer connector, I guess I'll need a bit of direction as to how to splice the wire.

Again I want to thanks grey99max for sharing his secret, I owe you a big one. I guess I'll have to drive the beast one day to Topekas so you can have a lunch & few beer on me. Lol

Removing the plastic line protection.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0852.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0855.jpg

Cutting the line so it's ready to tap.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0851.jpg

Inserting the screw/line adaptor.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0854.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0855.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0856.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0856.jpg

Taping the oil line.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0858.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0859.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0860.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0861.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0862.jpg

Everything plugged back. ( I used a high temps liquid teflon on the treads )
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0863.jpg

S/C oil feed.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0864.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0865.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0866.jpg


blaZt kit.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0868.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0869.jpg

Power supply for boosting coil voltage.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0867.jpg

 

Picking up the AT housing with bolts and oil pan cover tomorrow then I'll post some pics.

 

That sounds like a great idea ! But it wasn't a secret - happy to share, though.

Sure, drive to Kansas and we'll have a few cold ones, go to a couple of the local drag strips, have some Kansas City barbeque on the Plaza, and maybe get to a Pinks Arm-Drop event at Heartland Park in Topeka. There's one in October, I think.

hwb

 

Got the At housing this am, and good news is my AT is in perfect condition, the gear are all like new, the only thing he need to verified is the clutches but the tech said since the internal are in like new condition, it should be the same. Basically they are replacing all the seals, and while I was at the office the owner calls his supplier for the valve body, they will supply one made made by Jatco, the cost is only 300$ cdn.

Also they will order me a high end tranny cooler and a oil cooler but it's not made by hayden, I dont recall the name but he said it's a much better technology and apparently much more efficient. I'll ask him the brand name tomorrow. Later I drop the AT housing at the other shop for sand blasting, it will be ready next monday.

I'm going to drop the oil pan and all the bolts & bracket at the chrome shop tomorrow, this should take a week or two. The housing will get paint next week or the following one, depending on how busy my friend his at his paint shop. It look like the AT should be all assembled and finished in about 3 weeks from now, that bring me around first week of july for the final install in the car.

I still have a bunch of small things to fix but I'll be spending this coming saturday doing it but also replacing the 2 fuel lines and try to finish all the vacuum hoses. I still need to figure out few of them since I cant find my original stocker pics, if anyone has some very good pics of the engine bay on a 2k1 feel free to post it here, as this will really help me figuring out the routing of some of the remaining stuff I need to plug back.

I received my LC-1 Kit today, another bunch of stuff to learn, I will read all that stuff tonight or this coming week-end.

That's about for now.

Cheers

AA

 

Does anyone have suggestion before I rip the original fuel line still on the car and put the new one.

 

What are you trying to do? I do not have a 2k pic, if you had a 4th gen, I could guide you through it.

Have you looked in the FSM?

 

Hi Kevlo911, are you referring to the fuel line ? if so one was damaged, I dont really know how it happend but since I needed to replaced one I ordered both, I'm going to jack the car and see how simple or difficult it is to remove it. Sometime there is a sequence to remove and re-install some parts, I was just referring to that but it's no big deal I'll just go ahead and improvised as I did for many parts. lol Perhaps your might refer to the engine bay pics of a 5th gen, finally my cousin is coming tomorrow so I'll take few high rez pics so that will help me finish to plug everything in the engine bay.

Thanks anyway.

AA

 

I'm going to pick up the AT from the media blasting shop, this time I'm bringing my camera and will take some shots & post it later. I will drop it at the paint shop tomorrow is the shop is open otherwise it will be monday.

 

Let me know when its wrenching time, AA!! I want to come over your place to help you with the assembly.

its going to be hella fast, that beast...

 

Hi VQ'ed, I will bring the tranny housing at the paint shop monday, they should take care of it over the next week. The tranny shop will go get it for the final assembly by then. Now I need to finish the cleaning of all the AT bolts tonight, I want to drop them at GG buffing tomorrow morning. The AT should be back in 10 days but who know what can happen and push that date back. Hopefully in 2 weeks max we should be good to install everything in the car, I will let you know since I think we might have to work a good portion of the week-end if not the entire week-end. Your help is going to be well appreciate.

I will uploads the AT housing pics later tonight.

Cheers

 

Sorry for not posted the pics yesterday, after finishing to clean the AT bolts I was a piece of dead meat, so I went to crashed at 1:30 am. BTW it only cost me 150$ CDN to have the entire transmission sandblasted, I could have done it myself but it would have taken me the entire week-end with my syphon sandblaster, even though I have a 60 gallon - 3HP compressor. The shop that did the job, used a 25 hp compressor and the hose is about 1 inche diameter on their compressor.

Here is the AT pics once sand blasted:

I might have the 2 following cover chrome plated:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0882.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0883.jpg

This cover will be gun metal chrome plated. ( change my mind, it will be show chromed )

This will be painted.

This will be painted.

This will be painted. The shifter bracket on the right will be gun metal chrome plated
but I still need to remove it.

This will be painted.

 

I ordered a brand new dip stick that will also be chrome plated. Now I need to decide as to what color the tranny should be painted. Some of parts in the engine bay are painted with PPG DBC Silver Star, like the LCA and a bunch of bracket that goes on the engine so I think I'm going to go with that color, but maybe I will ask them to add some sparkle dust in the paint so it shine a little more . What do you guys think ?

 

Got back from the chrome shop, it could translate on how to spend 900$ in 5 minutes.lol

They will chromed the AT oil pan, the round cover ( not shown on the pics ) all the external bolts, there was also an external tubing and another small cover( not shown on pics ) but also the front headers. I brought the headers to have them polished but because the flange are iron the polishing wont last and rust will show up soon. Gratien the owner of GG buffing made me a price of 225$ to chrome plate the front headers with all the bolts, meaning the 6 nuts that goes on the headers stud but also the 3 connecting bolts and nuts. I'm quite happy with the pricing knowing that the jobs will be A1.

For the one it may interest they ship all around the world and they guaranty their works, their price are in canadian $$$ meaning you will green bill, you can check their website here: www.placagegg.com

For an unknown reason I'm unable to access their website...

That's about it for now, this afternoon my friend and I will replace both fuel line, not a fun job but heck it will be done.

 

We finally installed the fuel line, what a PITA it was, it took me and my friend 3 hours. We had to remove the gas tank because the fuel lines connect on top of it, but in order to install the new lines there was no other way than remove the gas tank. I found some rust on different spot on the tanks so I have decide to replace it, I'm searching for this now, I will be ordering either on line or monday at the dealer. It also gave me the opportunity to see the over all condition of the floor where the tank is, it is basically like brand new.

 

Does anyone know what is the wallbro fuel pump model that fit the 2001 ? I bought one like 2 years ago but I just find out it's not the right one, the one is have is the GSS342 or something like that, I tried to install it but it doesn't fit in so I need to buy a new one.

Thanks

AA

 

Hey guys, we just finished to remove the entire rear axle beam with all the brake component, I was not that bad to remove everything underneath some of the bolts wouldn't move with the air tool so for that matter we had to use a 3 foot breaker bar, so my back is done for the day. We pretty much separate all axle beam parts and I'm going to have them sandblaster tomorrow,once done it will be at the paint shop later this week.

I'm probably going to have the axle beam painted Metallic black, the brake cover are already painted purple, the rear brake are all chromed. The axle beam bolts & nuts will be black chromed. The brake bolts that were only polished and are showing rust will be show chromed likes the rest of the brake parts. All the RSB bracket and bolts will be show chromed. The only thing that need to be taken care of is where the rear axle goes, there is a bit of rust so I'm going to sandblast that area and paint it sterling mist just like the engine bay.

Here is some of the pics I took during our day.



http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0907.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0906.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0905.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0904.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0903.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0902.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0901.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0900.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0899.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0898.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0897.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0896.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0895.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0894.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0893.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0892.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0891.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0890.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0889.jpg

 

I'm moving to Ravena, NY doublea.

I don't know the new regulations but I think they require passports now to cross over to canada, but I will be closer to hopefully help you out if need be.

 

Ravena is only 338 km from my house, a 3 hours ride but you'll need a passport to cross the border but that's easy to get at least here, you go get an official pics fill out the form send it by registered post and wait 4 weeks and mr ring man bring it to your door.

Why are you moving out of Florida ? north east weather suck in winter but the 3 others season ar quite nice, so you got to suffer 1 season to get the other. Let me know when you move it's quite easy to get here, and people who come here dont want to go back. Lol

Good luck with the moving.

Cheers

Andre

 

Yesterday I installed the brake line that start from the ABS actuator, I'm just missing the front left side, the fuel tank has been ordered with new tank strap. The local dealer was asking 742$cdn for the fuel tank+ another 140$cdn for the tank strap, minest a small discount but still at the end it was 820$cdn. I order it from eNissanParts.com and got the tank for 310$us the strap where 29$us +34$us + 145$us for shipping but still it come to 595$ CDN once converted to our monopoly money. The only good local deal I made was with the rear wheel hub that came out at 84$ cdn each without the stud but I got a truck load of that. It's been a long week-end of work but I'm happy because I was not supposed to take care of the underneath rear end before next winter. Once the car is running and break in, I'm going to focuss on the S/C upgrade. Let me tell you that all the parts will be buy brand new from business only, I have tried several time to buy either used parts or a mix of new and used parts but some seller are dictator and wouldn't negotiate at all so I learned a lesson, I'M ONLY BUYING NEW STUFF NOW ON. This has taken so much energy and only draw negative vibs, so no more of that crap. I'm going to stick with my original plan and going with a V2 T trim, get the 600 Deatschwerk or RC injector. At this point I'm only missing the blower, the injectors, Emanage Ultimate, the oil lines and a bypass for an oil cooler and the battery relocation kit, I might get new ignition coil ( who's got the best deal on that ? ) I'm not to hot at the idea of using the older one even though they were working fine.

That about it for now, after the long week-end of work I need a bit of rest so today I'm spending the day with my family and friend on the boat.

Cheers to all.

AA

 

600cc is way too big for a SC setup. You need either 445cc or 555cc

For the coils, used are fine as long as they are GREY DOT.

 

How would I now if they are grey dot ? I think the 445cc will be border line if get in the 400hp + dont you think ? I'll check the 555cc then.


Thanks for your input.

 

There will be a grey paint dot on them Those are the updated coils and they are the good ones.

400+ whp? Then 555cc should be good. The Z forums usually have great deals on injectors, stock they use the same injectors as 00-01 so it is perfect.

 

6 months without a job and things with the fiance went south, so we split. I have decided to go to NY bascially to be with my father and cause I really don't like florida at all. I enjoy the snow and my father and I plan to go skiing this winter if we can.

Good side to this is I will be getting my life back together for the most part.

 

Good for you then. I enjoy winter > snowmobile> ski> hockey> and family dinner on week-end. I think there is much more work in the east/north recession didn't hit us that much so hopefully you should be able to pick up job and have a futur. I'm sure you'll find a nice girl up there. Good luck and keep me posted.

Cheers

AA

 

Thanks for the tips about the injector I'm def going to check on the Z forum. I'm going strait to the garage and check those coils.

A+

AA

 

Got my brand new rear wheel hub few days ago but left it in the garage without checking. Yesterday I open the box and find out that there is no ABS ring on the new one, is there a way that I can remove the ABS ring on my older wheel hub and put it on the new wheel hub ? Does anyone ever did it ? If so what tool are you using to remove the ring ?

 

That is from the 5th gen FSM. I would assume if the ring is in good condition you can reuse it?

 

The ring are in good condition. Both rear bearing were shot and the rear wheel hub are also pretty much rusted so I got new one instead of sandblasting and replacing bearing.

Thanks for the info.


AA

 

I finished to rip off the back end of the car, we removed the bumper, evap box, the cat back, heat shield etc. Tomorrow I'm going to start sandblasting the underneath of the rear end since there is few rust spot and I want to clean the area before i put back the painted rear axle.

We will use some undercoating to prevent any rust to occur there once cleaned. While at it, I'm thinking to fabricate my own dual exhaust. First if I decide to go thru this project, we will have to cut the spare tire room entirely in order to relocate the evap system but to also make room for the second muffler. The way I'm thinking is to fabricate a square box to hide the evap system and another one to relocated the battery.

After removing the evap system I pretty much figured out how to relocate it, I need to fabricate a new bracket and extend few hoses wich is not really a problem, this will not affect in any way how the evap system work

The real puzzle is if I decide to make a dual 1.75" or 2" from the front with an x pipe, because it would have to split in the rear where the gas tank is, so on the driver side there is the fuel line and brake line that the exhaust will heat up a bit, therefore a heat shield will have to be fabricate and install there. The other ways of doing it, is to route both exhaust in the center and then move them on the left side where the cattman cat back is, with the spare weel room cut there would be planty of room for the second cattman muffler and the piping coming from the front. The third way I figured would be the simplest to built, it would consist of a 3" or 3.5 " strait pipe coming from the headers collector > cat > resonator > Y then the piping to connect to the 2 Cattman muffler. Again this would only work if the driver's side piping can be routed over the rear axle, the left side is ok, but the axle being removed it's hard to say, I need to check some pics with the rear axle beam in place.

I really like the idea of 2 cattman muffler in the rear, the car would look really sick. The third way seem to be the easiest & most practical to build since it would take less space, and would only require one cat & one resonator, I would still have to buy the second cattman muffler. If anyone want to share tough feel free to throw your ideas.

Cheers

AA

 

wow andre, lookin good! Ur doin things i only wish i had time for .. actually money hah

two cattmans in the back would be sooo sick! quad tips FTW!

 

Run 2.5" dual exhaust...anything smaller and it will choke. Check out Meximax's setup

http://forums.maxima.org/4526724-post33.html

I looked at duals when I did my stuff, and 2.5" fits perfectly in aspects of what you may want to do

Also the headers collectors are 2.25", so shrinking down to 1.75" or 2" may not be good for it.

 

Today we reach the point of no return, we finally cut the entire spare room with a hacksaw. The funny thing is you juggle forever with the idea of removing it, and once you start to cut it, it only take about 10 minutes to remove everything. We closed the open floor with some metal sheet and 2-3 lane of rivets from the inside of the trunk, I also applied some rubberized material that fill the gap and make it water sealed. I need to do a bit of finishing underneath, so I might use some Tiger hair to close the gap and make an even smooth surface, I will finish it with the rubberized material. Ok now for the most I have planty of room to make a nice dual exhaust set-up. My friend and I like the idea of using a single 3" or 3.5" strait pipe coming from the headers collector, use a 3"" cat and a 3" x 22" resonator, then split at the rear with 2 separate 2" or 2.5 pipe to reach the Cattman muffler. The evap box is getting relocated in the middle where the spare wheel room was. The battery will be in the trunk, I ordered a relocating box from summit performance and will do that this coming week. Tomorrow I'm doing the underneath bracing to boxed the 2 rear beam and re-enforce the rear.

My camera battery are dead so I couldn't take any pics, but I'll take care of this in the morning. All in all I'm very happy to have done this, not only there will be a lot of room for a nice dual exhaust output, but the rear of the car will be sexier without the big bubble butt under the rear bumper.

 

I just finished the bracing of the rear end of the car, it's been a long & exhausting week-end, but I glad I'm done with the crap. I have also made a solid bracing for the evap box in the middle. I just need to make the whole for the bolts and the wire, the rest will be pretty much plug and play. Now I have plenty of room for my dual exhaust set-up, but also I'm sure the rear end will be stiffer, the bracing is very solid, we hit the bar a couple of time with a 3 lbs hammer just to make sure everything is secure and solid and it is effectively very solid. Here is the pics I just took.







http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0912.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0913.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0914.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0919.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0920.jpg

 

Which underbody coating did you use? The 3m stuff is great, the other stuff I have used doesn't stick as well.

 

It's a national chain store brand,( probably made by 3M ) but this stuff is very sticky, just looking at my forearm and how much I had to rub before this stuff go, tell everything. The thing that I also like it is paintable, there is some area that I want to put some but will paint it after. Now I just need to find another Cattman muffler and build that dual exhaust set-up.

here you go: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...er%2BGuard.jsp

 

As long as it is very sticky. I almost thought about using truck bed liner on the bottom of my car but so far the 3m stuff is holding up well.